[Garlan Garner]

All,

I received the Frunk upgrade v3 upgrade kit a couple weeks ago and finally did the install. The install was pretty easy, just replace one of the existing cables with the new cable and upgrade the firmware using the supplied SD card. The upgrade seems to work, with one exception. After the frunk lid closes and soft latches, it will REOPEN by itself 13 - 13.5 seconds later. Here's an example video.

you have to wait 13seconds after it closes to see it reopen. It looks like a "open" button was pressed, but nothing was.

It does not matter if I press the button inside the frunk, or choose to close from the app, or close via the button on the car's center screen. It always reopens. Even stranger, if I manually close the funk (carefully pushing down on the lid until it is closed), it will reopen it again.

I have adjusted the latch cable adjustment and made sure that it is neither too tight or too loose to prevent the soft closing to work correctly. Note, this is all after 9 months of correctly working v1 HW.

Did anyone else have a similar problem? Or does anyone have any ideas what may be going on?

Thanks in advance!!!

Hello Kernal,

I am in Chicago and I've installed about 60 funk kits and about 140 Trunk kits.

I have had to repair about 80 of these kits combined. I no longer install them as I'm repairing more than I'm installing now. I'm not sure what is going on, but most of them I'm not able to repair because the issue are the parts themselves. I encouraged all of my clients to keep their original struts handy and have on many occasions have had to re-install them.

The manufacturers have been extremely responsive, however I'm tired of having to diagnose and communicate with them via whatsapp all of the time. I'm no longer installing the kits until......well I don't know yet.

Lastly - I was installing the soft close doors also. Those are really cool. The only problem is that they would open the door in the car wash. That is insane. After an upgrade from Hansshow.....it's still happening for many of us. I can't figure it out. Its not wet wiring or anything.

 

[Drhalo]

I reached out to Hansshow the other day (I have the 4.2 version of the controller bought in 10/2019). They sent me the bin to upgrade to latest software, but told me that I need to buy a new latch and cable. Does anyone know what the difference is in the latch and cable from the slightly older version of the trunk opener? Is it worth the $56 they are asking?

 

[todd2fst4u]

I reached out to Hansshow the other day (I have the 4.2 version of the controller bought in 10/2019). They sent me the bin to upgrade to latest software, but told me that I need to buy a new latch and cable. Does anyone know what the difference is in the latch and cable from the slightly older version of the trunk opener? Is it worth the $56 they are asking?

Here is a photo of the updated latch installed. The old latch is on the right.

I purchased the v4 trunk upgrade kit just before it was taken down from their site. My trunk kit was v2 (same as yours). When I installed the firmware update, my trunk became unresponsive. I couldn't open from the app, screen, or trunk button. I had to use the emergency latch inside. I also didn't gain any of the v4 functions like how the trunk alternates from open to close to let you know the trunk is currently open. I contacted Hansshow and after some trouble shooting, they sent me the necessary v4 harness. This is also when they removed the v4 upgrade link on their site. The new harness they sent required fishing the wires through the tube to the trunk lid again. Everything is working correctly for me now. The upgraded v4 latch mechanism opens much quieter than my v2 did, no thud noise when starting to open anymore. And my screen now shows the open/close alternating animation.

 

[Drhalo]

How do you guys think these kits will compare from an implementation perspective from the ones that are rumored to be released by tesla on the Model 3's? Do you think Tesla will offer their own retro's to us older 3 owners?

 

[SoFlaModel3]

How do you guys think these kits will compare from an implementation perspective from the ones that are rumored to be released by tesla on the Model 3's? Do you think Tesla will offer their own retro's to us older 3 owners?

The biggest differences in my opinion are:
(1) Cleaner OEM install (you won't see the strut power wires)
(2) Peace of mind that an OTA update won't brick your kit
(3) Better/easier support should a part break (only have to deal with Tesla versus a third party)
(4) Avoid the risk of possible denial of warranty claims should you face an electrical issue in the car and it can be traced back to your kit or suspect your kit could be a root cause

Will it be able to be retrofitted? Maybe -- I suspect it will be cost prohibitive. Also, Tesla clearly changed the rear glass weather stripping with what looks to be a notch for the wider power strut. I was always fearful of extra wear on the weather stripping around the rear glass from the wider strut.

As it turns out its one of the triggers for me upgrading my Model 3. Also looking forward to the rumored "thicker glass" for noise suppression!

 

[Ranova]

How do you guys think these kits will compare from an implementation perspective from the ones that are rumored to be released by tesla on the Model 3's? Do you think Tesla will offer their own retro's to us older 3 owners?

Im guessing that it will not be offered as a retrofit. IF they do offer it, Im guessing it will be really pricey ($2k+) and its JUST the trunk. Frunk power liftgate is really the game changer in all this

 

[Drhalo]

The biggest differences in my opinion are:
(1) Cleaner OEM install (you won't see the strut power wires)
(2) Peace of mind that an OTA update won't brick your kit
(3) Better/easier support should a part break (only have to deal with Tesla versus a third party)
(4) Avoid the risk of possible denial of warranty claims should you face an electrical issue in the car and it can be traced back to your kit or suspect your kit could be a root cause

Will it be able to be retrofitted? Maybe -- I suspect it will be cost prohibitive. Also, Tesla clearly changed the rear glass weather stripping with what looks to be a notch for the wider power strut. I was always fearful of extra wear on the weather stripping around the rear glass from the wider strut.

As it turns out its one of the triggers for me upgrading my Model 3. Also looking forward to the rumored "thicker glass" for noise suppression!

Im just not sure that's enough to warrant a car upgrade seeing that the aftermarket seems to have solved this. Now, the heat pump, I would be very curious if we can retro our 2018 Model 3's with that. I just need it to 1)be released, 2)people start totaling newer Tesla model 3's so we can buy them on the used market.

 

[SoFlaModel3]

Im just not sure that's enough to warrant a car upgrade seeing that the aftermarket seems to have solved this. Now, the heat pump, I would be very curious if we can retro our 2018 Model 3's with that. I just need it to 1)be released, 2)people start totaling newer Tesla model 3's so we can buy them on the used market.

Yeah if you're comfortable with the risks, the aftermarket will most likely be cheaper for the trunk. Again assuming Tesla is even willing to retrofit. Their labor is expensive.

For the heat pump, I'm 99% it won't be able to retrofit.

 

[SoFlaModel3]

Im guessing that it will not be offered as a retrofit. IF they do offer it, Im guessing it will be really pricey ($2k+) and its JUST the trunk. Frunk power liftgate is really the game changer in all this

Just to clarify, there is no indication that a power frunk is coming to any of the cars in the lineup. I would like it as I hate leaving hand prints on my hood, but reality is that I rarely use the frunk and use the trunk daily.

 

[Ranova]

Just to clarify, there is no indication that a power frunk is coming to any of the cars in the lineup. I would like it as I hate leaving hand prints on my hood, but reality is that I rarely use the frunk and use the trunk daily.

yep, I was just saying that the power liftgate for the frunk has caused me to use it 100% more than before. Really surprised Tesla hasn't introduced it to at least the Model S or X yet.

If I lived in a state with snow, I would think about trading in my current 2018 3 for a new one with the new heat pump.

 

[Drhalo]

yep, I was just saying that the power liftgate for the frunk has caused me to use it 100% more than before. Really surprised Tesla hasn't introduced it to at least the Model S or X yet.

If I lived in a state with snow, I would think about trading in my current 2018 3 for a new one with the new heat pump.

I live in one of those states, but is the efficiency gain worth the loss you will take on your car?
In my case, I have an AWD with lifetime premium connectivity and FSD. My car was 62ish K before tax credit. What would Tesla offer me for my car? 38??
so let's say the same 3 would be 55,900 before delivery. I am eating 18K for an efficiency gain of let's say 10-20%.
If I drive 20K miles a year at average of 289 wh/Mi, or 3.46 Miles per KWH.=5780 KWH per year. My electricity rate at it's most expensive is 24 cents/KWH. Fuel Cost per year (worst case) =$1387
So, let's use the 20% savings, that's $277.40 per year savings.
That's a 65 year payback.
Now I know obviously there's other enhancements to get the newer 3, but in my scenario other than emotion and the satisfaction of knowing I have the most efficient version, it doesn't make this a need at all for most.

Curious and interested on other's thoughts.

 

[Ranova]

I live in one of those states, but is the efficiency gain worth the loss you will take on your car?
In my case, I have an AWD with lifetime premium connectivity and FSD. My car was 62ish K before tax credit. What would Tesla offer me for my car? 38??
so let's say the same 3 would be 55,900 before delivery. I am eating 18K for an efficiency gain of let's say 10-20%.
If I drive 20K miles a year at average of 289 wh/Mi, or 3.46 Miles per KWH.=5780 KWH per year. My electricity rate at it's most expensive is 24 cents/KWH. Fuel Cost per year (worst case) =$1387
So, let's use the 20% savings, that's $277.40 per year savings.
That's a 65 year payback.
Now I know obviously there's other enhancements to get the newer 3, but in my scenario other than emotion and the satisfaction of knowing I have the most efficient version, it doesn't make this a need at all for most.

Curious and interested on other's thoughts.

I guess it would really depend on your daily driving habits. My sales friends in MA with Model 3's complain about their range in the winter, a lot. They sometimes can drive up to 250ish miles a day. For them, it might be worth looking into a trade in since you also need to factor in potential time at Superchargers and their cost per kwh as well (which is more expensive than home charging). If the winter efficiency gain allows them to make it back home without Supercharging everyday in the winter, thats a pretty big win.

For you, its probably not worth the time, hassle, software features (FSD+ lifetime premium), and cost.

 

[chiapet15]

I guess it would really depend on your daily driving habits. My sales friends in MA with Model 3's complain about their range in the winter, a lot.

Is it possible to just wear the jacket/thick clothing while driving so that heater use can be minimized or avoided entirely? The enclosed cabin space would eventually warm up and I believe that one would put on said clothing anyways upon exiting the vehicle. I honestly don't think Tesla designed these cars to be operated outside of the sea-level regions of Silicon Valley.

 

[Ranova]

Is it possible to just wear the jacket/thick clothing while driving so that heater use can be minimized or avoided entirely? The enclosed cabin space would eventually warm up and I believe that one would put on said clothing anyways upon exiting the vehicle. I honestly don't think Tesla designed these cars to be operated outside of the sea-level regions of Silicon Valley.

That would help a little, but I think the heat pump also heats up the battery more efficiently as well in cold weather. Also, thats a pretty archaic thing to do, especially when youre paying luxury prices for a car. Wife/girlfriends would not be happy in those situations

I definitely agree with you regarding Teslas/other EVs made originally for hot climates like silicon valley, but Im glad they found a way to fix that in the Model Y

 

[garsh]

Is it possible to just wear the jacket/thick clothing while driving so that heater use can be minimized or avoided entirely?

Ah, you're bringing back memories of my Nissan Leaf ownership!
Driving all winter long with the heater disabled, wearing a hat, gloves and jacket. Air on the windows to prevent fogging/icing. Seat and steering wheel heaters turned on.

The enclosed cabin space would eventually warm up

It doesn't. All of that glass makes for a bad insulator. It just stays cold inside.

 

[Drhalo]

Is it possible to just wear the jacket/thick clothing while driving so that heater use can be minimized or avoided entirely? The enclosed cabin space would eventually warm up and I believe that one would put on said clothing anyways upon exiting the vehicle. I honestly don't think Tesla designed these cars to be operated outside of the sea-level regions of Silicon Valley.

The problem with this plan is that in the winter, my 3 fogs up like a champ.

 

[Drhalo]

Here is a photo of the updated latch installed. The old latch is on the right.
View attachment 35386

I purchased the v4 trunk upgrade kit just before it was taken down from their site. My trunk kit was v2 (same as yours). When I installed the firmware update, my trunk became unresponsive. I couldn't open from the app, screen, or trunk button. I had to use the emergency latch inside. I also didn't gain any of the v4 functions like how the trunk alternates from open to close to let you know the trunk is currently open. I contacted Hansshow and after some trouble shooting, they sent me the necessary v4 harness. This is also when they removed the v4 upgrade link on their site. The new harness they sent required fishing the wires through the tube to the trunk lid again. Everything is working correctly for me now. The upgraded v4 latch mechanism opens much quieter than my v2 did, no thud noise when starting to open anymore. And my screen now shows the open/close alternating animation.

So I bought the upgrade kit, they sent me the new harness and new latch. I guess me being lazy is a win as I never installed the original. I just tore the back of the car apart, including removing the rear bumper to get the cable inside.
I have been following Electrified Garage's install video, but their Trunk kit seems to be different than mine.

I have a few questions.
I notice that the lights in the trunk have connectors on this kit. What do I do with the OEM connections for the left and right trunk lights? Do they just go unconnected?
In EG's install, Chris runs a cable on the top of the trunk and connects to a connector inside the car behind the rear seats but under the upper carpet under the window. What's that for?

The V4 trunk kit has a connector into the CAN bus, behind the center console on the floor. I am unclear if I need to connect this to my 2018. I know they changed their CAN bus connector in 2019.
Also on the one Chris is doing he taps power under the rear seat. @ 1:09:05 and disconnects the logic connector. What is the purpose of doing that?

 

[todd2fst4u]

So I bought the upgrade kit, they sent me the new harness and new latch. I guess me being lazy is a win as I never installed the original. I just tore the back of the car apart, including removing the rear bumper to get the cable inside.
I have been following Electrified Garage's install video, but their Trunk kit seems to be different than mine.

I have a few questions.
I notice that the lights in the trunk have connectors on this kit. What do I do with the OEM connections for the left and right trunk lights? Do they just go unconnected?
In EG's install, Chris runs a cable on the top of the trunk and connects to a connector inside the car behind the rear seats but under the upper carpet under the window. What's that for?

The V4 trunk kit has a connector into the CAN bus, behind the center console on the floor. I am unclear if I need to connect this to my 2018. I know they changed their CAN bus connector in 2019.
Also on the one Chris is doing he taps power under the rear seat. @ 1:09:05 and disconnects the logic connector. What is the purpose of doing that?

You can leave the original trunk led connectors unplugged.

The V3 trunk kit required attaching to a connector inside the cabin near the rear window. This was to limit the number of wires required to run up the rubber boot into the trunk lid.

You won't be able to connect to the canbus connector. The adapter included only works for 2019 and newer. Connecting to the canbus is only necessary to prevent the foot sensor from opening the trunk after the car is put in drive but before the doors lock.

Disconnecting the the logic connector opens the high voltage contractors.

 

[Drhalo]

You can leave the original trunk led connectors unplugged.

The V3 trunk kit required attaching to a connector inside the cabin near the rear window. This was to limit the number of wires required to run up the rubber boot into the trunk lid.

You won't be able to connect to the canbus connector. The adapter included only works for 2019 and newer. Connecting to the canbus is only necessary to prevent the foot sensor from opening the trunk after the car is put in drive but before the doors lock.

Disconnecting the the logic connector opens the high voltage contractors.

Thank you! So on my 2018 there's no can bus connection at all? (sorry I'm dense).

 

[Drhalo]

You can leave the original trunk led connectors unplugged.

The V3 trunk kit required attaching to a connector inside the cabin near the rear window. This was to limit the number of wires required to run up the rubber boot into the trunk lid.

You won't be able to connect to the canbus connector. The adapter included only works for 2019 and newer. Connecting to the canbus is only necessary to prevent the foot sensor from opening the trunk after the car is put in drive but before the doors lock.

Disconnecting the the logic connector opens the high voltage contractors.

Where do these 2 cables attach??