Wheel/Tyre Discussion

RUN TM3

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Thanks for the response. I was planning on reading the threads on lowered 3s to see whether anyone is having clearance issues with a 1.5" drop and 245s. Figure that would be a crude indicator for me. Beyond clearance, would I potentially screw up any aspect of my car in a material way by going that much bigger on tires? Again, I don't much care that my speedo, odo, and consumption will be off. I'm more concerned with things like whether it could adversely affect my ABS or any other safety or driving feature of my car. Thanks again.
 

Mad Hungarian

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Thanks for the response. I was planning on reading the threads on lowered 3s to see whether anyone is having clearance issues with a 1.5" drop and 245s. Figure that would be a crude indicator for me. Beyond clearance, would I potentially screw up any aspect of my car in a material way by going that much bigger on tires? Again, I don't much care that my speedo, odo, and consumption will be off. I'm more concerned with things like whether it could adversely affect my ABS or any other safety or driving feature of my car. Thanks again.
No, the only serious potential problem I see with the 245/45R19 is that front suspension knuckle issue. Your speedo/odo will of course be reading 4.7% lower due to the bigger O.D., but the ABS/TC/ESC will all function just fine as they are principally looking for speed differences between the 4 positions. At some point a much larger total variance may start to affect the performance of those systems, but not in this range.

Be careful not to confuse tire-to-body clearance when lowering with tire-to-knuckle clearance though. The wheel/tire assembly does move up and down with suspension travel, as well as steer left and right, relative to many fixed components under the car such as the outer body panels and the inner fender liners. However the wheel/tire's relationship with the hub, brake and knuckle components is static, that is they move together. So regardless of what you do to lower or raise the car, or whether the car is still or moving, that space between the front knuckle and the tire is never going to change.
 

syc1

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No, the only serious potential problem I see with the 245/45R19 is that front suspension knuckle issue. Your speedo/odo will of course be reading 4.7% lower due to the bigger O.D., but the ABS/TC/ESC will all function just fine as they are principally looking for speed differences between the 4 positions. At some point a much larger total variance may start to affect the performance of those systems, but not in this range.

Be careful not to confuse tire-to-body clearance when lowering with tire-to-knuckle clearance though. The wheel/tire assembly does move up and down with suspension travel, as well as steer left and right, relative to many fixed components under the car such as the outer body panels and the inner fender liners. However the wheel/tire's relationship with the hub, brake and knuckle components is static, that is they move together. So regardless of what you do to lower or raise the car, or whether the car is still or moving, that space between the front knuckle and the tire is never going to change.
I'm thinking of going to a taller tire as well without lowering the car to help with comfort and the gap between the tire and the car. Would using a different wheel such as 19 x 8.5 with an offset of +30 vs the stock with an offset of +40 help with the tire-to-knuckle clearance? Either with a tire size of 245/45R19 or 235/45R19?
 

Mad Hungarian

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I'm thinking of going to a taller tire as well without lowering the car to help with comfort and the gap between the tire and the car. Would using a different wheel such as 19 x 8.5 with an offset of +30 vs the stock with an offset of +40 help with the tire-to-knuckle clearance? Either with a tire size of 245/45R19 or 235/45R19?
Lowering offset only 10 mm is of very limited value in this situation, as the bottom side of the knuckle link is relatively flat with just the faintest of upward angle.
I hope @orekart doesn't mind me stealing this perfect image from the very detailed and relevant post in the Lifting thread to illustrate:

1562855420002.png


The above setup is a 7.0" +25 wheel with 215/60R17 tire, which is 27.2" O.D. Because the wheel and tire are so narrow AND the offset has been lowered to +25, it is completely clear of the knuckle.
Being that the 235/45R19 has a 27.3" O.D. and thus would be 0.05" taller at the radius than the tire shown above, with anything approaching a normal offset it would be a super tight fit.
And I think we can see that trying to put a 245/45R19 with its 27.7" O.D. and 0.25" higher radius under that knuckle isn't going to happen unless you use a really low offset, like +10 or less, to move its additional tread width far enough out.
 

COM3

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What tire pressures are you running in the 20" stock rims (on the Performance Model)? Mine are at 42lbs right now, and it seems a bit low.
 
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scaots

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I just rotated the OE MXM 18" at 20k and looks like I am track to get 50k out of them. Will be time for replacement before next winter. Which is better than I was expecting out of those, but I'm usually pretty gentle on my tires with lots of highway cruising. That now makes it them an ok value to me, but still leaning to the Continental for a little better traction in the rare winter event that isn't cleared already.

@Mad Hungarian saw you were recently riding on the MXM. What's your opinion on those vs Conti PureContact? I'm mostly interested in comfort and quiet, but handling can be important sometimes. Thanks!
 

slarty

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This is actually true for the sport wheels as well. They have a little directionality to them and of course it's not mirrored for 2 of the 4 wheels.

It actually does bug me a bit now, but I'm hoping that's only because I'm spending so much time obsessing over pictures. It shouldn't be to bad once I actually have the car and am driving it instead.

It's aslo worth noting that this is true for the turbine wheels on other Teslas and any wheel set with directionality. It's never bothered me before, but now that I notice it...
I just noticed tonight that my wheels are the same on both sides (performance wheels), so searched and found this. I though maybe they had installed the wrong wheels on one side of my car. They look like fan blades that force air outwards on the left, and inwards on the right. This is totally normal?
 

Jim H

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Lowering offset only 10 mm is of very limited value in this situation, as the bottom side of the knuckle link is relatively flat with just the faintest of upward angle.
I hope @orekart doesn't mind me stealing this perfect image from the very detailed and relevant post in the Lifting thread to illustrate:

View attachment 27584


The above setup is a 7.0" +25 wheel with 215/60R17 tire, which is 27.2" O.D. Because the wheel and tire are so narrow AND the offset has been lowered to +25, it is completely clear of the knuckle.
Being that the 235/45R19 has a 27.3" O.D. and thus would be 0.05" taller at the radius than the tire shown above, with anything approaching a normal offset it would be a super tight fit.
And I think we can see that trying to put a 245/45R19 with its 27.7" O.D. and 0.25" higher radius under that knuckle isn't going to happen unless you use a really low offset, like +10 or less, to move its additional tread width far enough out.
Interesting that you show the fit of a 17" wheel/tire combination. I assume the 17" wheel is installed on a non-p brake car. Any suggestion on a 17" wheel to replace the 18" aero wheel? Weight reduction is the main interest.
 

garsh

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I just noticed tonight that my wheels are the same on both sides (performance wheels), so searched and found this. I though maybe they had installed the wrong wheels on one side of my car. They look like fan blades that force air outwards on the left, and inwards on the right. This is totally normal?
Yep, totally normal. Although they look a little like fan blades to our eyes, they don't actually function that way. Nothing to be concerned about.