I reviewed a similar matrix, but there were a few that looked so similar, I wanted to help get clarification if it’s more obvious to someone else. I don’t see anything in the 15 Amp categories that look like this, even though the outlet itself says 15 amp on it.
The "15 amp" looks like it was etched on by the installer or previous homeowner.
It's keyed the wrong way to be an L5-15.
It looks like an L5-20 or L5-30 to me.
The "15 amp" was probably etched on because it's connected to a 15 amp breaker.
It's hard to tell the size, which is the difference between the L5-20 and L6-50. If you have a voltmeter and feel comfortable using it, check the voltage across the two non-ground wires. L5-20 = 120V L6-50 -240V.
Also, the L5-20 is the size of a standard 120V plug, the L6-50 is the size of the 14-50.
What is it labeled as on the circuit breaker, and is the circuit breaker a single or dual?
Garsh is right. I got mixed up on the direction. I'm pretty sure it is a NEMA L5-20. I've never encountered an L6-50, but every photo I can see of it shows it has a central alignment pin which this outlet can not support.
If this were my house, I would trace it back to a circuit breaker to make sure I knew how much amperage it has. It is obviously suspect since someone wrote it is 15A, but it is not a 15amp plug. Once you trace it back to a circuit breaker, you will also find out if it is 120V or 240V as well.
Actually... Let me take a step back. Is this in a house or a commercial building? That could be a 277V 15A plug (L7-15R) which I believe is used for commercial lighting. If so, there is no adapter you can use but you could have an electrician wire the Tesla Wall Connector to the circuit.
Anyway... High level answer is trace it back to a circuit panel or get an electrician to figure it out for you.
locate the circuit breaker in load center
turn off circuit breaker
check all conductors in receptacle to insure power is dead
relocate twist-lock wiring device to the trash bin
determine wire gauge size
determine if wiring device is the sole receptacle on branch circuit
install new receptacle and circuit breaker based on previous two steps
for safe and reliable EV charging the entire circuit (receptacle, wire size, circuit breaker)
needs to be verified and sized accordingly by a licensed electrician and not some hack
(likeme) on the internet
to be clear, I am not against twist-lock wiring devices, in fact I use L6-30s for my “medium” amperage
(30/24) extension cord charging kit. I am advocating the removal of this device for this application since Tesla does not offer any twist-lock adapters for Gen I UMC or Gen II MC, in which case one would have to kluge an adapter to charge on
The expanding foam insulation pretty much disqualifies it from being used. It holds too much heat in. The rating is based upon having some air circulation around it. Just replace it with an appropriate receptacle based on wiring/breaker sizes. And clean that foam out of there.