Tesla HPWC Install & Error Codes

edittman1

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#1
Ok so finally got my HPWC installed after a couple hiccups with breaker options etc. we ended up having to settle for a 30/50/50/30 quadplex since the panel didn’t have room for a plain 60A two pole and finding a 30/60/60/30 is impossible.

Anyway, got the thing all wired up and installed. Tested the connection and it said 243 volts, so we set the DIP to “240 or greater” setting. We also set the dial to “8” which is for 50A.

As soon as we turn everything on the box goes solid green, outside green, and then red blinking. Ok, so we have a problem.

When we press and hold the reset button, it goes solid green, flashes 3 lower greens (the yellow is slightly noticeable as well), then goes too bottom green, and finishes with blinking red.

Not sure what’s up. Any ideas?

The unit is not overheating. We did top mount and that seems all installed proper.

Only thing I wonder is if that “line” and “neutral” are plugged in backwards would that matter? In theory it should not. Both produce 121-122 volts, so what difference does it make?

Open to ideas...
 

iChris93

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#2
They’re both live, neither are neutral. Though you may have measured over 240 V I think you have your dip switch set wrong.

Edit: what does the manual say the error means?
 

edittman1

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#4
Manual says three green is overheating. And it wasn’t hot at all. Plus it’s indoors. I think it’s the DIPs too.

Nah. With only a 50 amp breaker it calls for position 8...
 

PNWmisty

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#5
Ok so finally got my HPWC installed after a couple hiccups with breaker options etc. we ended up having to settle for a 30/50/50/30 quadplex since the panel didn’t have room for a plain 60A two pole and finding a 30/60/60/30 is impossible.

Anyway, got the thing all wired up and installed. Tested the connection and it said 243 volts, so we set the DIP to “240 or greater” setting. We also set the dial to “8” which is for 50A.
There is no DIP setting for "240V or greater" only one for "Line to Neutral (250V or greater)" which you don't have. You need to set the DIP switches to "Line to Line (240V or less)" which is DIP 1 off (down) DIP 2 on (up).
 

ADK46

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#7
Residential installations in the US and Canada should always use "Line to Line (240V or less)". That term describes the system by which our power is delivered: two hot lines of opposite polarity (loosely speaking), across which you get around 240V. 120V comes from one hot line and a third wire, the neutral.

It's nice you're getting blinking light error signals, instead of smoke signals. :)
 

PNWmisty

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#8
It's nice you're getting blinking light error signals, instead of smoke signals. :)
That's right, a Tesla WC will only work if you don't let the smoke escape. Fortunately, they designed it with plenty of safety checks to make sure the smoke stays inside. I'm sure someone could figure out a way to let the smoke out but it's not easy.
 

edittman1

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#9
Well that’s really unclear instructions then because each line is showing 122 volts for 244 total...
 

96s46p

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#10
They could stand to improve the wording and cross reference it to the service wiring section.

Technically 244v line to line doesn't match Line to Line (240V or less) and 122v line to neutral doesn't match
Line to Neutral (greater than 250V). So you just have to know that 244v is a 240v spec system within tolerances.
 

edittman1

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#13
Big thanks to everyone, I changed the DIP to DOWN/UP and it now works beautifully!

With the HPWC at setting 8, with 40A, I am getting about 32 miles/hour charging. Is this right? I think it's pretty close to the averages I am seeing which are 32-34ish. My hunch is that I am losing a bit of current/draw because of the 100' run from the panel?

Main question: What if I moved the dial to slot 9, for 60A? I have 6/3 ROMEX and a 50A breaker in - which is the right wire and theoretically the draw will only be 48A. Will that work? Worst case I try it and it trips the circuit breaker?
 

garsh

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#14
Main question: What if I moved the dial to slot 9, for 60A? I have 6/3 ROMEX and a 50A breaker in - which is the right wire and theoretically the draw will only be 48A. Will that work?
Circuit breakers are rated for peak loads. For continuous usage, you should only use 80% of the rating. For a 50A breaker, that is 40 amps.
Worst case I try it and it trips the circuit breaker?
Probably. But at that point, why don't you swap in a 60 amp breaker?
 

ADK46

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#15
Your 100-ft run is kinda long. Power loss in the cable will increase as the square of current - it would go up 44%. We could do the full calculations, but my gut feeling is that you should probably keep things as they are. I've noticed my 40-ft conduit (with #6 wires) getting fairly warm at 48A, so I'm thinking of turning the car down to 40A. Whether charging is complete at 2:00AM or 3:00AM won't make a difference. But if my wife has to drive 200 miles RT to the big city in the morning, and I have to go in the afternoon, I can turn it up. Or stop at a SC. Or - gasp - burn gasoline in a different car.

If you can imagine a similar scenario, you could put in a 60A breaker, set the WC to 48A, and limit the car to 40A except when desperate.
 

edittman1

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#16
Oh yeah. That’s an idea too.

I’ve also been reading that the slower you charge the longer the battery will last? Need to study up in that stuff. Kinda fascinated by how all this EV stuff works.
 

ADK46

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#17
... I’ve also been reading that the slower you charge the longer the battery will last? Need to study up in that stuff. Kinda fascinated by how all this EV stuff works.
Home charging is already way slower than supercharging, so no need to worry.
 

edittman1

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#18
Fair point. Wish there were more stats on misc drain overnight, drain values for things like heated seats at 1,2,3 heat setting, or AC vs None AC (can we allow simple intake from outside??).

Or like the impact of charge to full, each time you charge. Etc etc.

So much to learn!