Scan My Tesla official thread (support, suggestions, discussion, feedback)

[bwilson4web]

UPDATE:
It worked!

I left all four doors open during the process and followed the steps:

The relay clunk was within 3 minutes. I was able to rest on the rear seat without a problem.

Here is the connector latch:

It didn't 'stuff in' very well. Given the background, dog hair, I'll need to figure out a better solution:

Now to study some of the YouTube examples of how to operate this App:

Note, enabling "Schedule Departure' aborted the current charging session. So hitting "Charge Now" got it running again:

Hi. I did not have much trouble with this.

Disable all apps/services that can remotely access car (teslafi, teslaspy, apps/widgets on your phone (best to set flightmode) , then Sentry off, mobile access off, logout of the teslaaccount (asks password). Open all doors and then from standing NEXT to the car, reach in, rest your 1 hand on the steering-wheel and with other hand on screen to 'service' and select powerdown. If you sit/lean on the driver-chair it will notice you ;-)​

Then wait indeed max 8 minutes but most likely the relay clakk will come within 2-3-4 minutes already... Dont sit in front, dont open any doors, just crawl in the back and disconnect the can-cable and put your wireharnass in between.​

I think i remember pushing IN the little strip in the middle to pull-out connector from female side, not sure, did not give any problems.​

. . . ​

Thanks! I've highlighted what I didn't do.

I didn't think to open all doors which I'll leave open after the relay clack. I've also got a scheduled departure time set which I'll turn off as well as WiFi in the car. I'll raise the driver seat back for a little more space.

Upon hearing the relay clack and the without touching the rear seat, I'll lay on the rear floor to work the connector. The video is very helpful on the connector latch. I'm still curious how you handled the OBD connector but like Ikea instructions, 'some assembly is required.'

Bob Wilson

 

[bwilson4web]

"SCAN MY TESLA" has one poorly describe feature, how to tailor a display, which I'd like to explain:

The overall flow:

1. Survey the TAB (table) of choice.
2. Use the WRENCH icon to bring up the icon to reorder the data the way you want.
3. Select any DATA POINT you don't want and use WRENCH to DELETE.
4. Select ALL tab and choose the data point you want to add.
   1. Use WRENCH to bring up double arrow and copy icon.
   2. Make a silent COPY of data point using the WRENCH icon to bring it up.
5. Select TAB you are working on.
6. Use CIRCLE DOWN to PASTE the selected data point.
7. Use WRENCH to bring up arrows to move data point to where you need in the display.

There may be easier methods but this one works.

Bob Wilson

 

[scottf200]

My son and I installed a cable in his 2018 LR TM3 AWD this past weekend. I had my non-Raven 2018 X. We did some parallel testing looking at accel and regen which I'll probably put a new thread. Here is one test. I guess neither of us realized that the front had limited 'contributions' except under pretty hard accel. ie. doing +5 while in AP wouldn't even kick it in.

From a FB post in the ScanMyTesla page a Model X Raven owner said the opposite. Obviously it has the permanent motor in the front.

R. W.: I find it more interesting that my [X] Raven runs almost 99% on the front Motor. Only on harder acceleration the rear motor comes in. That is in Germany at even 100 mph. ...

Here is one graph from DatPlot.
~300 kW peak total being used accelerating from 0-70 mph.
~100 kW (1/3) being used by the front induction motor and
~200 kW (2/3) being used by the rear permanent motor.

~75 kW peak being regen from 70-0 mph.
0 kW being regained from the front induction motor and
~75 kW being regained from the rear permanent motor.

 

[scottf200]

"SCAN MY TESLA" has one poorly describe feature, how to tailor a display, which I'd like to explain:

When you install a new version does it looks the new custom tab you set up? I thought that was the case in the past and that is why I never did it.

 

[amund7]

"SCAN MY TESLA" has one poorly describe feature, how to tailor a display, which I'd like to explain:


The overall flow:

1. Survey the TAB (table) of choice.
2. Use the WRENCH icon Click an item to select it, to bring up the icon to reorder the data the way you want.
3. Select any DATA POINT you don't want and use WRENCH to long press the item to get the context menu and DELETE.
4. Select ALL tab and choose the data point you want to add.
   1. Use WRENCH to bring up double arrow and copy icon.
   2. Make a silent COPY of data point using the WRENCH icon to bring it up.
5. Select TAB you are working on.
6. Use CIRCLE DOWN to PASTE the selected data point.
7. Use WRENCH to bring up arrows to move data point to where you need in the display.

There may be easier methods but this one works.

Bob Wilson

You must be an engineer, you like to stick a wrench in everything

Looks like I really need to make some instructional videos, especially about this. It's a lot simpler, forget the wrench, you just tap the signals you want to select, copy, move etc.
But keep the feedback coming, I want to do some tidying, streamlining and modernization of the UI, so it's easier to use and understand. There is way too much stuff in the menus that should be moved to a new Preferences page. Bjørn already helped me a lot, just seeing how he used it, and his complaints of what felt clumsy gave the arrows and copy button. (You can also do that from the long-press menu, but it's more work, and that used to be the only way to do it)

When you install a new version does it looks the new custom tab you set up? I thought that was the case in the past and that is why I never did it.

Yes! Everything is stored exactly like you left it.

And this is another one of my dilemmas. It is stored the way you left it, in the first version you installed... because the app (currently) can't know what is your deliberate changes, and what is just there from an earlier version. So when there are new versions, with changed layouts or new signals, they only show up in the All tab - because that tab always get recreated, to be sure you can get to the new items. I am working on a solution for this - but the only idea I have is to also store which items you have purposely deleted, so to not re-add those - otherwise add all missing items to all tabs. Also any new tabs.

The 2 ways to get new signals and tabs now is:
1. Wrench -> Factory reset this tab
or
2. Wrench -> Factory reset ALL tabs

Especially if you have a model 3 and had the app for a while, you should try a reset ALL tabs. There are LOTS of new signals and tabs lately, that you might not have seen.
PS. You will also lose your stored trips if you do the reset ALL tabs. Which is why I don't do this automatically on each upgrade.

Sorry to derail the thread, I should make a dedicated Scan My Tesla thread, if mods allow it.

 

[bwilson4web]

Good guess:

You must be an engineer, you like to stick a wrench in everything

I was mostly having to study Bjørn's video several times, the last 25%, to finally come up with a reproducible method. My earlier attempts were frustrating so some suggestions:

• A state diagram with operation lines labeled with the action that goes from one state to the next. Unlike text, some of us think in images which is a blessing and a curse. You don't even want to know how I see and dream maths.
• Many of the states do not clearly show what the application is doing. This was probably what caused my frustration. I thought I'd done something but the visual clues were 'subdued' so I'd do it again which probably toggled it to something else.
• If there is a "Paste" option in a menu list, there could be a "Copy" entry too. The obscure 'book' between the UP and DOWN icons does not shout COPY.
• Retain as a "legacy" the last "ALL" tab table of variables so the user can bring the Android device into the nice, warm, coffee and family friendly home while we work on tuning the tabs into what we want. Showing the last values works for me but a zero value works too.
• Well Done! "Factory" and "Tab" reset. I haven't had to use them but it was comforting to know I could back to my starting point.

Not investigated, yet, is getting the recorded data exported as hopefully a CSV or delimited text file. Once the time-stamped, data are input to columns with data headers, I'll be able to do my kind of analysis.

My first investigation will be a waste heat analysis. I've already been surprised by the brake temperatures but I really want to understand how many kW and kWh are being transferred in the battery and powertrain coolant flows. For example, if you are driving to a Supercharger at a low SOC, Bjørn already reports the car preheats the battery which potentially shortens the range. It might be better to set the navigation to an adjacent address, not the Supercharger. Then upon arrival put the car on the Supercharger and let the grid, not the battery, warm up the battery.

I've touched the brake disc and had it burn with IR measured temperatures of ~140 F (60 C). Given the air flow, a substantial amount of energy is lost. But I understand there are disc brakes with much lower, parasitic friction that could be a significant range extender.

SCAN MY TESLA will become my tool for a quantitative, efficiency analysis of our SR+ Tesla. As it gives me similar data to my previous Prius studies, we'll be on the high-side of range and low cost transportation.

Bob Wilson

 

[scottf200]

This was 45 mph to 70 mph in 5 mph increments via the roller wheel. NO front motor usage.

(Scan My Tesla (SMT) data, DatPlot graphing, Explain and Send screenshot chrome extension.)

 

[bwilson4web]

This was 45 mph to 70 mph in 5 mph increments via the roller wheel. NO front motor usage.

(Scan My Tesla (SMT) data, DatPlot graphing, . ...

I am thinking we might want to have a separate thread for sharing data studies from this thread which has been more of a ‘tool maker’. Both are needed but different. For example, I’m learning how to use Android OpenOffice to find the data files. I still need to export either the files or spreadsheets which has nothing to do with what the data reveals.

Talking about tools, I am not having much luck finding an Android user’s forum that matches my needs. A Debian Linux fan, I suspect Android has a lot Linux/Unix functions hidden behind the user interface. I’ll head to the bookstores to see if there is an Android For Dummies book.

Bob Wilson

 

[amund7]

Welcome,

I am making this thread to keep an index of frequently asked questions, links, and docs. Plus discuss the little things, recieve feedback and give help if needed. Will also be happy to take suggestions, and discuss the deep technical why's and if's of the app, adapters etc.



https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.emon.canbus.tesla (Play store listing)
https://sites.google.com/view/scanmytesla/ (documentations)
https://www.facebook.com/scanmytesla/ (Announcements and news)

The free UI demo: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.emon.canbus.teslademo

JWardell's thread on Model 3 canbus decoding (the source of most, if not all Model 3 related stuff in SMT) https://teslaownersonline.com/threads/diagnostic-port-and-data-access.7502/

Related software, also by me, all open source, ask about these too:
https://github.com/amund7/UDPLogger/releases UDP Logger (to plot CSV files)
https://github.com/amund7/CANBUS-Analyzer/releases Canbus Analyzer (to plot and read "can dumps" and "raw logs", to decode new signals, also reads a myriad of other canbus formats, plus DBC files)
https://github.com/amund7/ScanMyTeslaToInfluxDB A tool that can chew both RAW logs, CAN dumps and CSV files from SMT and put them in a InfluxDB time series database. This one is super beta, currently for programmers only.

 

[amund7]

Post #2 reserved for something future

 

[jdcollins5]

When will Scan My Tesla be available for iPhone users?

 

[amund7]

When will Scan My Tesla be available for iPhone users?

This is by far the #1 most frequently asked question lately

Exactly when is hard to say, possibly spring/summer 2020, if all goes to plan.

 

[Hugh_Jassol]

I was just looking here to get one of the cables, but it says it’s for M3 produced after 1/2019. I have M3 built 12/2018... does that mean I need something else?

 

[Feathermerchant]

They sell both. Make a note on your order or send them an email. I just got mine and have not installed it yet.

 

[JWardell]

My two honest suggestions:
1-cutomizable or more meter choices. Like 7 segment LED numbers, real-looking analog gauges, etc. Different sizes too. This is why Torque is so nice. (Maybe even graphs over time?)
2-DBC support or some way of adding custom data
3-Advanced stuff like this is well worth an additional upcharge

 

[GregRF]

I was just looking here to get one of the cables, but it says it’s for M3 produced after 1/2019. I have M3 built 12/2018... does that mean I need something else?

I ordered mine from the GPS Tracking America website (just placed my order this week and have not received yet). Should be cheaper and quicker to get.

2018 ($29.95 +$9.99 S+H): https://www.gpstrackingamerica.com/shop/hrn-ct20t1/
2019 ($29.95 +$9.99 S+H): https://www.gpstrackingamerica.com/shop/hrn-ct20t11/

I have also ordered the recommended Scantool OBDLink LX ($49.95): Amazon product

 

[Needsdecaf]

I can't wait to try mine out this weekend!

 

[Needsdecaf]

When will Scan My Tesla be available for iPhone users?

I found a friend who uses Android and asked if they have an old phone sitting around in a drawer. Galaxy S5 to the rescue, I hope!

 

[michi84]

2-DBC support or some way of adding custom data

That would indeed be nice, Torque Pro has had the ability to add custom PIDs for ages. Just some way to define a custom signal (like in a DBC, with CAN ID, start bit, lenght and scaling) would be fine for a start.

 

[Rush]

Hi, Well it looks like the Samsung Galaxy Tab A tablet doesn't like the OBD device either, keep on getting the same error
And here is the full error from the Scan My Tesla when I pust the button in the lower right I'll also let EMDS know and see what they say, but everything works fine on my old S4 phone, just too small... I tried @Juggernaut suggestion of pairing with Tesla first and that didn't work either.
I might just go ahead and get another obd, which one should I get?
Thanks
Rush