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Radar Detector / Camera wiring options

125K views 259 replies 67 participants last post by  Power Surge 
#1 ·
Has anyone attempted to hardwire a radar detector yet in the 3? Has anyone tapped into the 12v cigarette lighter in the center console? I was thinking of either tapping the power there or possibly just getting a low-profile 12v cigarette lighter plug, extending the wire length, and winding it through the dash somehow and around the windshield to the rear view mirror area.
 
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#2 ·
Once I get my 3 I plan on trying to wire it to the power that feeds the lights in the sun visor, I have done this on a previous car when I couldn't get switched power from the sunroof control circuit. I am against running wires tucked in the A-piller, In my opinion it would be ripped out by the airbag and can hit you in the face. I am not sure if the Model 3 has airbags in the A-piller though.
 
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#3 ·
Curious about this too. From what I’ve read the cordless ones don’t seem as nearly as effective. I still don’t understand why these things need to be so big and ugly :(
 
#5 ·
Curious about this too. From what I've read the cordless ones don't seem as nearly as effective. I still don't understand why these things need to be so big and ugly :(
The best detectors like the V1 are larger because they need large radar horns to pick up weak signals. Just like those big satellite dishes on top of TV stations.
Of course your Tesla's radar will be constantly interfering with it and reducing performance, and all the other cars' side radars are annoying, so detectors are not quite as practical as they used to be.
 
#8 ·
I was able to feed my 12v cig lighter wire from the top of the M3 into the cig lighter plug yesterday. i didn't have to remove too much and i basically just tucked it into the headliner/windshield, A pillar, along the weather stripping, behind the driver kick panel, tucked along a seam in the lower dash, the along the driver side of the console and into the plug compartment.

I really only needed to remove the kick panel, the console driver side trip, and the rail under the trim with a Torx.

My was was a little larger gauge so I removed the left rubber bump stop in the console to feed the wire. I might end up just cutting a slit and making a small hole just so i can put the rubber stop back in. i used a small flat head and my Chargepoint Keycard to tuck the wire.

If I can find a pic to draw up a path for you, it should help you.

there is a video on youtube that shows how to remove the console trim to feed the wire through to the 12v plug.
 
#9 ·
Did you hardwire the detector into the power wire going to the plug (what I'm planning on doing) or just used the plug itself?
 
#11 ·
This was actually for the dash cam I had on my totaled Altima. That one I hardwired but this one I just plugged into the 12v. Here's an overhead pic. I ended up drilling a hole and cutting a little to slip the wire through, but allow the driver side rubber stopper to be reinstalled. My thumb is covering up the bright blue light from the adapter.
Was there a specific reason you chose the drivers side to run the wire up to the top of the windshield? My detector is mounted to the rear view mirror so it's in the middle and can go either way. Maybe one side has less obstacles.
 
#15 ·
Sorry for the bad pics and i just used paint to put a red line to the route I used.

I basically used a rounded rubber thing and my Chargepoint Card to:

1. Tuck the line into the headliner, i couldn't figure out how to remove the center mirror/camera cover. So I chose the path of least resistance.
2. Route behind the the A pillar,
3. Down the door seal (That Chargepoint card really came in handy.)
4. Behind the kick panel. I started by pulling up the driver side tunnel and the rest pops off. I didn't remove completely as I just routed the wire in and behind the panel. There are two little tabs on it, toward the firewall that you'll need to tuck in behind before snapping it all back into place. You'll see, just grab a flashlight.
5. Then I just followed a seam that runs right under the steering area. You can sort of wiggle the wire through.
6. Removed he driver side center console trim
7. Removed the Driver side Center console trim bracket (there's a youtube on this part, you'll need a star shaped Hex wrench/driver tool and remove all the screws.
8. Routed wire behind the Driver Side center console trim bracket
9. I removed the little rubber bumper on the arm rest and drilled a hole and made a slot to route the wire under it. then replaced it back as I noticed the arm rest has a lot of movement without it.
10. Put your car back together and plug in the 12v or splice into the 12v wiring. there was a youtube vid on how to remove the cup holders pieces as well in case you want to hard wire.
 

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#14 · (Edited)
Following.... Currently using a Escort Passport 9500IX hardwired with a BlendMount bracket and hoping the Model 3 might have the same install options.

In my Chrysler 300S like many cars you are able to tap a 12v source in the mirror/rain sensor harness for the detector using a "MirrorTap" power cord. As mine is now it turns ON and OFF with the ignition which is perfect.

https://store.blendmount.com/mirror...line-fuse-with-military-grade-taps-p3513.aspx

Currently I see BlendMount makes an option for the Model X but no other Tesla.

https://store.blendmount.com/model-x-c12549.aspx

Does the Model 3 have a mirror stem or arm like the X? How about a wire harness for the sensors & cameras? Somebody please take a side angle view of the mirror/camera housing.

Attached some pics of my current install. Love the clean flush mount...nothing on the window and no cords hanging or strung about. I'm a bit OCD so I even spray painted my EZ-Pass tag on the window so you don't see the ugly white box. ;)
 

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#16 ·
yup, the 3 looks like the X style but again, i couldn't figure out how to remove the housing and i tend to go Hulk on things when I get frustrated. I read somewhere that the S had two leads behind their housing that an be tapped, hopefully the 3 has a similar connection and your link to the Blendmount looks to be a good one. When I hard lined my radar in my old Altima, I used a 12v to 5 v converter with a fuse that tapped the mirror power.
 
#17 ·
Great info! I'm debating what to do for my detector. Just got my M3 this week! How long is your cable? I just purchased a 12' extension cord since my coiled cord won't cut it. Thanks!

Sorry for the bad pics and i just used paint to put a red line to the route I used.

I basically used a rounded rubber thing and my Chargepoint Card to:

1. Tuck the line into the headliner, i couldn't figure out how to remove the center mirror/camera cover. So I chose the path of least resistance.
2. Route behind the the A pillar,
3. Down the door seal (That Chargepoint card really came in handy.)
4. Behind the kick panel. I started by pulling up the driver side tunnel and the rest pops off. I didn't remove completely as I just routed the wire in and behind the panel. There are two little tabs on it, toward the firewall that you'll need to tuck in behind before snapping it all back into place. You'll see, just grab a flashlight.
5. Then I just followed a seam that runs right under the steering area. You can sort of wiggle the wire through.
6. Removed he driver side center console trim
7. Removed the Driver side Center console trim bracket (there's a youtube on this part, you'll need a star shaped Hex wrench/driver tool and remove all the screws.
8. Routed wire behind the Driver Side center console trim bracket
9. I removed the little rubber bumper on the arm rest and drilled a hole and made a slot to route the wire under it. then replaced it back as I noticed the arm rest has a lot of movement without it.
10. Put your car back together and plug in the 12v or splice into the 12v wiring. there was a youtube vid on how to remove the cup holders pieces as well in case you want to hard wire.
 
#20 ·
I managed to use my old Blendmount from my previous Golf R. Its a little fiddly but managed to get it to grasp onto the mirror stem. Fed the wire in a similar path as above and under the side trim of the center console to the 12V socket. My detector also has a remote button which is stuck to the underside right of the dash.
So far it works quite well and hopefully Blendmount will design a specific mount adapter soon.
Automotive lighting Vehicle Hood Automotive mirror Motor vehicle


Tire Automotive tire Automotive design Automotive exterior Carbon
 
#21 ·
I managed to use my old Blendmount from my previous Golf R. Its a little fiddly but managed to get it to grasp onto the mirror stem. Fed the wire in a similar path as above and under the side trim of the center console to the 12V socket. My detector also has a remote button which is stuck to the underside right of the dash.
So far it works quite well and hopefully Blendmount will design a specific mount adapter soon.
Looks good. I was working with Blendmount a few weeks ago to potentially work up a prototype for me to test. I sent them the requested measurements of the stem, but haven't heard back on whether or not they are still interested. They hadn't had much luck getting anyone local, but maybe that's changed.
 
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#23 ·
Anybody have an update for a "wire tap" location in the 3?
 
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#25 ·
I don't see any positive conclusion yet that a usable, switched 12v source is really not available behind the rear view mirror or at the headliner lights.

I'm holding out hope for this, and one day I will be able to go in there looking for it myself if no one else does first.

Paul
 
#27 ·
Once I get my 3 I plan on trying to wire it to the power that feeds the lights in the sun visor, I have done this on a previous car when I couldn't get switched power from the sunroof control circuit. I am against running wires tucked in the A-piller, In my opinion it would be ripped out by the airbag and can hit you in the face. I am not sure if the Model 3 has airbags in the A-piller though.
There are airbags in the A-pillar, but it's pretty easy to route around them. Jon Osborne did a very thorough install video for his dashcam install that shows this clearly:

I don't see any positive conclusion yet that a usable, switched 12v source is really not available behind the rear view mirror or at the headliner lights.

I'm holding out hope for this, and one day I will be able to go in there looking for it myself if no one else does first.
I'm really surprised that I haven't seen anyone here or on TMC mention having signing up for access to the service documentation. I don't have enough questions yet to spend the $100 for 24 hours of access, but maybe someday.
 
#26 ·
Keep bugging them! They have to realize the market and demand to make it worth their efforts.

I'll def try my current Blendmount first to see if I can make it work, but if not, somebody out there will be smart enough to make a decent one for the Model 3.
I guess this is why they never got back with me.

Automotive design Font Auto part Carbon Automotive mirror
 
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#31 ·
#32 ·
Question: does anyone have an older V1 (Valentine one) radar detector before the "junk-k fighter" was added, and use it in you Model 3? Does the Model 3's radar cause it to sound off constantly?

-Paul
I don't have an old V1, but I have to strongly recommend that you upgrade, add a bluetooth module, and purchase a prepaid android phone (~$30-$40) to pair with your new V1. This will enable you to have lockouts, frequency display, speed-based muting, and many other tools to make the detector perform better and quieter (including better range with custom sweeps). I can't begin to tell you how much better the V1 is when paired with a dedicated phone. And the phone works nicely sitting in the dock on the Model 3. There are a couple apps to choose from to control your detector, but they're all well-reviewed and provide a lot of the same features. If you decide to go this route, rdforum.org is a great resource, and you can watch a lot of how-to videos from Vortex Radar on youtube. He's also active on the forums.
 
#48 · (Edited)
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#51 ·
I've found two more suggestions for how to get 12v power to your radar detector.

Tap the cigarette lighter power can be tapped behind the plastic panel at the lower left door jamb in the driver footwell (pale blue wire)


Or (I prefer this one), run a long wire behind the easily removable side panel of the center console to the actual 12v outlet.


It occurs to me that I could dig deeper into the center console and hardware by tapping into the wires behind the cig lighter plug. But I will probably just use the radar detector's 12v plug. It's concealed in there, and I don't have anything else to ever plug in there, especially since there are 4 USB outlets elsewhere in the car.

Hope this helps!

-Paul
 
#64 ·
Don't discount the arrows, and V1's overall spectacular communication of signal. NO ONE else gets that as perfect.
If you take enjoyment out of knowing as much as possible, and don't mind the extra noise from other vehicles (and you don't have a wife to complain about it), it is still the way to go. I would never criticize someone for still using a V1. I think I shed more than a few tears the day I sold it, I and still have my coveted multicolor remote V1 display.

I had the chance to drive several hours this weekend with the R3, and it did in fact seem to false a few times, so its filtering still isn't perfect. It always seems to be on 24.1 so there is probably one brand blind spot system that gets through. (And hey, there were times where I wish I had arrows just to be able to tell what the heck car was setting it off...so I could leave them in the dust!)
 
#65 ·
Since all this discussion on Valentone one, figured I'd ask this here.

While blendmount seems to be the mount of choice for many people. Given there's no actual blendmount (yet) for the Model 3, and its expense, I have been considering other options. I did come across this cheaper option: https://www.ebay.com/itm/172460474193

Not having a Model 3 yet, I'm not sure how well this would work with the mirror stalk. I don't like the serrated clamp, and I'd probably make some sort of gasket or spacer to prevent marring up the mirror stalk. Also the "tightened down ball joint" linkage strikes me of something that will fall out of adjustment eventually.

For someone who has a Model 3 and a Valentine One, does this look like a viable option, or stick with the Blendmount when available?
 
#66 ·
For someone who has a Model 3 and a Valentine One, does this look like a viable option, or stick with the Blendmount when available?
That looks like a Mirror Mount (R), but the manufacturer says KCWI, so it's apparently a knock off brand of the knock off brand. Running a google search for that model only turns up ebay links and a few gibberish links. I would stay away from that one. If you're wanting something cheaper than a Blendmount, at least spend the extra $10 to get an actual Mirror Mount by Radar Mount. They have a lot of good reviews, but I'm still holding out for the Blendmount based on Vortex's review of both.

https://www.vortexradar.com/2017/04...unt-rear-view-mirror-mount-comparison-review/
 
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#68 ·
I really would like to know this as well, has anyone tried tapping into the rear-view mirror power? I have a Uniden R3 and I really don't want to have to run wires down the A-pillars to hook it up. Even if it's not switched power, I don't really mind manually turning the detector off when I park. Currently in my Civic I use a MirrorTap and the install could not have been simpler.
 
#72 ·
Or you could rig something like this... :rolleyes:

 
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