Radar Detector / Camera wiring options

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zosoisnotaword

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zosoisnotaword

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I followed the instructions on livingtesla.com to mount and wire my blendmount and V1.
They do good work. I plan to do the same eventually, but I'm lazy. I have a 14' cable running through the trim and back to the lighter outlet, and it's not visible, so I haven't been motivated yet. But one thing they told me that stays in the back of my mind is that the hardwire-tapped power source will shut down when the car is off. The lighter outlet doesn't shut down until the car goes to sleep, which takes a couple hours when it's connected to wifi, or never when I'm at work (Sentry/charging). It would be nice to not have to power the V1 down manually every morning.
 

Defjukie

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I just hardwired my Uniden R3 a couple days ago, and I can confirm that the spare tap in the white harness within VCleft (originally pointed out by Ingineerix) still provides switched 12V with no delay. I have read that this spot is now populated on newer cars, presumably for the tow hitch.

As I'm typing this out, I realize I have not yet tested whether it shuts off even when Sentry mode is active. Will report after I do.
 

Defjukie

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I just hardwired my Uniden R3 a couple days ago, and I can confirm that the spare tap in the white harness within VCleft (originally pointed out by Ingineerix) still provides switched 12V with no delay. I have read that this spot is now populated on newer cars, presumably for the tow hitch.

As I'm typing this out, I realize I have not yet tested whether it shuts off even when Sentry mode is active. Will report after I do.
I can confirm that the VCLeft tap point still shuts off, even with Sentry Mode active.
 
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I can confirm that the VCLeft tap point still shuts off, even with Sentry Mode active.
I just registered (planning to purchase a Model 3 this year). I'm active on RDForums.

Searching the web, I've read multiple tales of how the "latest update" seems to make the 12V systems remain ON all the time (no longer switched).

I'm glad to hear that Ingineerix method (VCleft) still works for switched 12V.
 

JWardell

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I just registered (planning to purchase a Model 3 this year). I'm active on RDForums.

Searching the web, I've read multiple tales of how the "latest update" seems to make the 12V systems remain ON all the time (no longer switched).

I'm glad to hear that Ingineerix method (VCleft) still works for switched 12V.
Welcome! It's been a long time since I was over at radardetector.net forums, seems like most moved over to RDF.
Accessory 12v is still switched, but only off once car goes to sleep, which is 15-45 min after exit, or never if Sentry mode is activated. 2018 firmware switched off accessories immediately after you exited the car.
The unused pins that Phil posted are intended for things like trailer and air suspension that so far haven't been changed by software. Things could always change, though.
 
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Thank you for the welcome!

I can deal with 15-45 min after exit, so long as it turns off! (And back on for startup).

Geez I hope that doesn't change! I don't want to manually turn these things on and off.
 

JWardell

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Thank you for the welcome!

I can deal with 15-45 min after exit, so long as it turns off! (And back on for startup).

Geez I hope that doesn't change! I don't want to manually turn these things on and off.
The easily way I tell if my car isn't sleeping is if I see my dash cam blinking away all night from inside the house :)
But not really any big deal because unlike an ICE car there is a giant battery that can power those things for a month
 

zosoisnotaword

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Thank you for the welcome!

I can deal with 15-45 min after exit, so long as it turns off! (And back on for startup).

Geez I hope that doesn't change! I don't want to manually turn these things on and off.
Yeah, I charge at work on a 3kW circuit, so it tends to stay awake most of the day and I have to manually turn off my detector every morning. I'm planning to hardwire to VCLeft, but I'm waiting to see what Valentine Research comes out with next.
 
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I tapped the blue wire today in my exploration of my new Tesla Model 3... the "cig lighter" one. I'm finding it's still powered up 45 min after exit. I'll wait a little longer...

Edit: Hm. It seems like it remains on 12V all the time. I'll have to look elsewhere.
 
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oripaamoni

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I tapped the blue wire today in my exploration of my new Tesla Model 3... the "cig lighter" one. I'm finding it's still powered up 45 min after exit. I'll wait a little longer...

Edit: Hm. It seems like it remains on 12V all the time. I'll have to look elsewhere.
Wire was red. I traced it from the white 6 pin connector shown in the YouTube video.
 
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New to this forum, but I'm quite active on a few others. So I'm just gonna repost what I've posted on those forums.

So I got around to installing the Viofo A129 Duo dash cam last night, with most of the wires hidden as best I could. It's not a complete hidden cable install, but I'm very happy with it. I mounted the front camera on the rear mirror housing, not on the windshield directly.

It took me about 3 hours, with most of that time figuring out whether to mount the rear camera up low or high. Due to how steeply angled the rear windshield is, it was best to mount the rear camera up higher by where the roof tint starts or the highest defroster line to get the best view out the back. The rear camera is mounted high enough that it doesn't block or take up your view of the rear mirror. When I test mounted it lower, more than 50% of the image was the rear deck; so that wouldn't work. I've seen other installs using the Blackvue dash cam where they were able to mount it low due to the cylindrical shape of the rear camera.

There isn't much space behind the headliner and rubber trim to route and stuff the 2 cables underneath it. It's quite tight, especially by where the front windshield & A pillar meet, and the C pillar. There's ample room underneath the passenger side front & rear kick panel trim and the rear bench seat leather panel to stuff the rear camera cable. I didn't want to remove the C pillar completely to stuff the rear camera cable, so I just wedged it in between the C pillar & deck.

To get it all powered, you have to pop the leather trim panel on the passenger seat side and unscrew the T20 Torx screws to stuff the USB cable behind the metal carrier trim. You then remove one of the armest rubber stoppers route the cable through the notch.

Photos of how I routed the cable included as well.