EVmatch: the Airbnb of EV charging.

MountainPass

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For the automotive engineers out there: I’m not sure where my 12v battery resides inside my RWD Model 3, but wherever it is, I’m guessing that losing a 24lb moment arm from the center of the car could affect handling? Or is it so minuscule as to be not noticed and not a factor?

For @gwdecker726, no, this isn’t a necessary upgrade at least not for me. However, when my existing 12v gets weak enough to possibly become unreliable, this battery sounds like a terrific replacement. Now, that said, I have a 2012 LEAF purchased new that now 7 years later still has its original 12v with no evidence of deterioration sufficient to replace it. In fairness, I have replaced 12v’s in my 1964 Ford Thunderbird though probably because it needs roughly a million cold cranking amps to get the huge V-8 turning.
It's all part of our weight loss journey! The Tesla manages the 12V battery much more gently than an ICE car so the stock battery or this upgraded one will likely last a very long time. The 12V battery is in your frunk compartment, under that plastic cowl cover, it pops right off if you want to have a look inside.
 
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MountainPass

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The sale has ended, all the orders have been filled and we have more in stock ready to ship!
 

Cookiebob

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MountainPass

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@MountainPass, what are your thoughts about rust when sliding the bar as shown and instructed in the installation instructions?

https://i1.wp.com/www.mountainpassp.../2019/03/Brace-moved-aside-1.jpg?w=1200&ssl=1

P.S. I will share other install feedback later, but I’m trying to figure out if it’s worth me buying primer paint and reopening my car up to attempt to patch up these scratches from my install.

We have those scratches because it is a development car and it has been apart and together again a dozen times. This area of the car is not exposed to the elements, it would take years and years to develop any corrosion. We aren't worried about it on our car, but of course, you could hit it with some paint yourself, it would only require the frunk to be removed which takes 3 minutes.
 

Cookiebob

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We have those scratches because it is a development car and it has been apart and together again a dozen times. This area of the car is not exposed to the elements, it would take years and years to develop any corrosion. We aren't worried about it on our car, but of course, you could hit it with some paint yourself, it would only require the frunk to be removed which takes 3 minutes.
Thanks for getting back.

By the way, the product is great. It saved me some more pounds, and I’ve got the #2 P3D dragy time for the time being.

I also have those scratches on my non-development car, which gave me some concerns.

I am an amateur, so please forgive some of my sloppiness and need of instructions.

Potential updates
1) Change “You will now be able to slide the crossmember/coolant reservoir towards the front of the car” to something along the lines of...

“Prepare to slide the crossmember by wedging a thin cloth underneath. Rubbing metal against metal will scratch off the primer on your car.”

2) You could also potentially list optional installation tools including primer paint pens. I didn’t have this on hand and couldn’t use my car to buy some since it was taken apart.

Another optional tool could be the following low profile ratchet:
MulWark 20pc 1/4 Ultra Low... Amazon product
I used a small bit to hold the blue washer and the nut from one side of the stock battery bracket and used my left hand followed by a wrench to secure the MPP bracket on the left side.

I used this method because my P3D did not have that much freeway to move the crossbar as shown in the pictures.

3) Highlight that the battery terminals for the EarthX battery are different sizes. I didn’t realize one was bigger than the other. And the bigger one corresponds to the positive side. I tried to bang the negative car connector onto the larger positive terminal before noticing this.

Original text: “Using 5mm hex key, installed the included battery terminals on the positive and negative locations of the battery”
 
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MountainPass

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@Cookiebob thank you for the feedback, we have updated the instructions with your additions.

Hopefully you can stay on top with those Dragy times!
 

eXntrc

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@MountainPass: is it possible to view the installation instructions? I'm curious what effort is required but I'm not seeing them linked from the product page.

Also, I just wanted to ask about the price. EarthX has the ETX900 battery listed at $450 but your kit is listed at $660. I know machined aluminum isn't cheap, and I know you need to recover costs invested to develop it. But I'm just curious if shipping is included or if there's something else I might have missed regarding the $200 difference.

Thanks!
 

MountainPass

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@MountainPass: is it possible to view the installation instructions? I'm curious what effort is required but I'm not seeing them linked from the product page.

Also, I just wanted to ask about the price. EarthX has the ETX900 battery listed at $450 but your kit is listed at $660. I know machined aluminum isn't cheap, and I know you need to recover costs invested to develop it. But I'm just curious if shipping is included or if there's something else I might have missed regarding the $200 difference.

Thanks!

Here is the link for the instructions in our tech center:

All of our machined parts are made in the USA, Canada or Germany which does cost more, but we are proud of it and will always do so. If we made the brackets in China they would be much cheaper, but we love our machinist and will support him as long as we can keep up with our demand!
 

TomT

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I'm sorry but I fail to see the ROI of $660 to save 24 pounds... On a car of this weight, 24 pounds is a rounding error. What's more, it is upfront and the car already has a significant rearward weight bias...
Now, if that was unsprung weight, it would be a whole different matter but it is not.
 

Frully

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24pounds
about 11kg

at 100km/hr, about 28m/s that mass has (0.5)*11kg*(28m/s)^2 = 4312J of energy, 1 watt hour, or 1 dietary kCal...
It's not a tonne of energy, but it adds up over the life of the car. We're talking Mars bars per week!

Edit: Quantities of energy should absolutely have more Smoot-like units. kWh is too sterile. MarsBars, and MarsBarsPerWeek MBPW are far more intuitive (for anyone who has ever used a treadmill)
 
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LithiumMoto

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This thread is still open apparently .. ok, so, interested parties may want to ask about the low voltage point cutoff on this x brand battery.