the correct term is "consumption" as we display how much fuel we need to go a given distance. This makes much more sense due to there being a linear relationship as opposed to mpg which makes no sense at all. Your dial starts at infinity and then the higher the dial goes the smaller the number gets. Who came up with this??
Kilometerage would be km/litre which noone uses because outside america people use units which are easy to use and understand.
Here is my re-labeled summary tab:
The change (circled in yellow) is to clarify that the data is all tied to "distance driven" and the other term was a relic of when the basis of this particular spreadsheet first came into being, back in 1991(!).
Hi - love seeing this data. Kinda new to it though. Just to be clear though ... columns D and F should be labelled watts-hours / kilometer. Not kilowatt-hours / km. Seems like the numbers are a factor of a 1000 off if it is meant to truly be kwh/km. Will keep digesting it .... Again, thank you for posting!!
Cheers and thanks for the catch!
Here is the corrected tab:
Hmmm, any thoughts on the discrepancy between what your Tesla is saying and what your energy meter is saying with regards to power uploaded? 18% discrepancy isn't minor.
Obviously, I'm only going to deal with how much hydro I actually have to feed this car, so that is why (from a cost perspective) I deal only with "well-head to wheels" (sorry).
And just like the whole liquid fuel distribution system, there are some losses we have to deal with.
First loss is what is surmised to be a
5% loss at the AC/DC conversion point inside the actual on board charger.
Second loss "I think" may be related to the "vampire drain", estimated at 1%/day.
Since I can tap into 74.3 kWhs of the actual battery capacity, 1% of that works out to 743 watts/day.
A notional month has 30.34 days in it, so a notional monthly vampire loss adds up to 22.542 kWhs of energy not providing actual energy services.
The %/month of vampire drain is inversely proportional to how much driving you do (i.e. more driving = less losses with the car just sitting there).
In my example for October 2018, the car says I uploaded 388 kWhs and 22 kWhs of estimated vampire losses would work out to about
5.5% loss.
The only thing I can't get my head around on this one (yet) is the upload listed in the car "should" deal with this, but I have some suspicions (I'll detail below).
The third loss is the actual 3.4 watts (nominal) that my Tesla Wall Connector requires to sit there and be ready.
That math works out to 2.48 kWhs a month.
Not much, but a little over
0.5% loss.
Fourth loss deals with things like HVAC use, and this goes back to my suspicions mentioned above.
If one were to sit in a Model 3 and crank up the heat and let that car heat up until its too hot to sit in WITHOUT putting it into gear to drive the wheels, logic would dictate that the watt/hours per km would start to increase.
It doesn't.
I've tried this numerous times and I have come to the conclusion that the number on the trip odometer is only calculated while the car is in gear and actually driving.
If you sit in a traffic jamb for say 10 minutes on some freeway, watch that number.
It should climb, but it doesn't.
The % battery level drops, which is logical because you are using energy to keep things warm/cool inside your car.....but the rear wheels aren't rotating.
Anyhow, sorry for the long drone.......I hope that answers your question.....what was it again?
