Max gets his wheels rotated: First Scheduled Maintenance

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tencate

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#1
[Edit: See Post 29 and following. This rotation pattern is no longer recommended.]
I live in NM, and the nearest Service Center is Denver, about 6 hours away. It was a nice day today and I've got 6100+ miles on the car so I decided to rotate the wheels myself since I'm close to the mileage where you're supposed to do that. I haven't seen any posts on this so perhaps this might be interesting to some of you. I took photos.

The Owners Manual tells you where the jacking points are and I looked underneath and sure enough, easy to find. I got out my pair of low clearance racing jacks (Harbor Freight) and positioned them under the jacking points, using a wooden block between the jack's pad and the car's jacking point. No issues with the car's low clearance with these jacks but there wasn't much room to spare. I loosened up the lug nuts a tiny bit and jacked one side of the car up so both wheels cleared and pulled the lug nuts and wheels off. The wheels were filthy and I note that some of the paint on the rim was scratched a bit where the aero covers had been. I bought a set of wheel bands, I'll put those on next weekend and put some polish on the wheels too.

A single 18 inch wheel and tire weighs a whopping 47 pounds, they're heavy! Also took a photo of the tire on the wheel and you can see just how much of the wheel "sticks out". Don't just roll these wheels onto their backs unless you're on grass or something, otherwise the rim of the wheel will scrape pavement. Ouch.

I put the fronts on the backs and vice versa, put on the lug nuts in the exact same position they came off, tightened all the lug nuts, let the car down onto its tires, and did the final torquing (110 ft lbs right?). Took the car for a spin, double checked the lug nuts again. Cleaned and popped the aero covers back on and Max is all set for a while!

I'm eager to put on my red wheel bands (EVAnnex) and am looking forward to getting the kit with the lug nut covers and center caps. It REALLY changes the look of the car without the Aero covers!
 
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SoFlaModel3

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#2
Wow so the 18s have the same problem as the 19s in that they stick out beyond the tires. That was a mistake for sure!
 

NoVa3

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#3
I put the fronts on the backs and vice versa, put on the lug nuts in the exact same position they came off, tightened all the lug nuts, let the car down onto its tires, and did the final torquing (110 ft lbs right?).
Nice work! Are those the 1.5 ton low profile jacks? Also, I believe the lug nut torque spec is 129 lb-ft.
 

Quicksilver

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#6
I live in NM, and the nearest Service Center is Denver, about 6 hours away. It was a nice day today and I've got 6100+ miles on the car so I decided to rotate the wheels myself since I'm close to the mileage where you're supposed to do that. I haven't seen any posts on this so perhaps this might be interesting to some of you. I took photos.

The Owners Manual tells you where the jacking points are and I looked underneath and sure enough, easy to find. I got out my pair of low clearance racing jacks (Harbor Freight) and positioned them under the jacking points, using a wooden block between the jack's pad and the car's jacking point. No issues with the car's low clearance with these jacks but there wasn't much room to spare. I loosened up the lug nuts a tiny bit and jacked one side of the car up so both wheels cleared and pulled the lug nuts and wheels off. The wheels were filthy and I note that some of the paint on the rim was scratched a bit where the aero covers had been. I bought a set of wheel bands, I'll put those on next weekend and put some polish on the wheels too.

A single 18 inch wheel and tire weighs a whopping 47 pounds, they're heavy! Also took a photo of the tire on the wheel and you can see just how much of the wheel "sticks out". Don't just roll these wheels onto their backs unless you're on grass or something, otherwise the rim of the wheel will scrape pavement. Ouch.

I put the fronts on the backs and vice versa, put on the lug nuts in the exact same position they came off, tightened all the lug nuts, let the car down onto its tires, and did the final torquing (110 ft lbs right?). Took the car for a spin, double checked the lug nuts again. Cleaned and popped the aero covers back on and Max is all set for a while!

I'm eager to put on my red wheel bands (EVAnnex) and am looking forward to getting the kit with the lug nut covers and center caps. It REALLY changes the look of the car without the Aero covers!
Nicely done! Did you have to reset the TPMS? Was that easy?
 

tencate

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#7
Grab some Jack stands too, you don't want to be under there if one of the jacks fails. It's not pretty.
Under it? You don't need to get under the car and swapping wheels is a 10 minute thing; I have no clue where you'd place jack stands under there either if you wanted either, it's all a bit flat battery. The jacks: one is a 2 ton, the other a 1.5 ton, both work fine, both are the Harbor Freight "racing jacks" and I use them all the time for the Triumphs.

As for the TPMS, that's a good question, reset seems to be buried in the settings option on Model S according to what I'm reading but don't know how to do it on a Model 3. I'll try letting some air out of a tire and see if it's smart enough to know I rotated the tires! If not, that might take a call to Tesla service. Good catch, thanks. I'll let everyone know what I find out.

Thanks for the torque spec too, I'll re-torque the lugs nuts when I get back home. I knew that was the spec for the aftermarket wheels but I couldn't find the spec for the stock 18 inch ones. Makes sense it would be the same.
 
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#8
I usually just jack one side up, put the stand under the other on my car, guess I figured you could probably do the same.

I realize you aren't going under the car, but your hands and head are close enough to the car if it moves fast I wouldn't want to be there.

I also have the same jack, works great but I've seen one leak fluid and drop quickly. I'd rather have something solid under there. I know plenty of people who don't I guess. My car is just low enough that there's not much extra space so I am pretty conscious of always using stands.
 

Maevra

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#9
Under it? You don't need to get under the car and swapping wheels is a 10 minute thing; I have no clue where you'd place jack stands under there either if you wanted either, it's all a bit flat battery. The jacks: one is a 2 ton, the other a 1.5 ton, both work fine, both are the Harbor Freight "racing jacks" and I use them all the time for the Triumphs.

As for the TPMS, that's a good question, reset seems to be buried in the settings option on Model S according to what I'm reading but don't know how to do it on a Model 3. I'll try letting some air out of a tire and see if it's smart enough to know I rotated the tires! If not, that might take a call to Tesla service. Good catch, thanks. I'll let everyone know what I find out.

Thanks for the torque spec too, I'll re-torque the lugs nuts when I get back home. I knew that was the spec for the aftermarket wheels but I couldn't find the spec for the stock 18 inch ones. Makes sense it would be the same.
A friend swapped out their 18s for 19s and we didn't find a reset TPMS setting on the car, but you could try and just drive it a few miles to see if it triggers anything. My friend's car was smart enough to detect it had different tires and a message popped up saying "we have detected new wheels on your car" and gave the option to reset. Not sure if it works on the same wheels (just rotated) but worth a shot.
 

tencate

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#10
I actually just wrote to Tesla Service (email) and will let you know what they say. The car didn't complain at me but I wouldn't expect it to, it still probably senses the same 4 TPS's. As for jack stands, that's another interesting question too, especially since someday, long into the future, we "wrenchers" may want to do things with the suspension or something. At the rate I'm putting on miles, maybe that'll be sooner than I think!
 

Insaneoctane

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#13
I live in NM, and the nearest Service Center is Denver, about 6 hours away. It was a nice day today and I've got 6100+ miles on the car so I decided to rotate the wheels myself since I'm close to the mileage where you're supposed to do that. I haven't seen any posts on this so perhaps this might be interesting to some of you. I took photos.

The Owners Manual tells you where the jacking points are and I looked underneath and sure enough, easy to find. I got out my pair of low clearance racing jacks (Harbor Freight) and positioned them under the jacking points, using a wooden block between the jack's pad and the car's jacking point. No issues with the car's low clearance with these jacks but there wasn't much room to spare. I loosened up the lug nuts a tiny bit and jacked one side of the car up so both wheels cleared and pulled the lug nuts and wheels off. The wheels were filthy and I note that some of the paint on the rim was scratched a bit where the aero covers had been. I bought a set of wheel bands, I'll put those on next weekend and put some polish on the wheels too.

A single 18 inch wheel and tire weighs a whopping 47 pounds, they're heavy! Also took a photo of the tire on the wheel and you can see just how much of the wheel "sticks out". Don't just roll these wheels onto their backs unless you're on grass or something, otherwise the rim of the wheel will scrape pavement. Ouch.

I put the fronts on the backs and vice versa, put on the lug nuts in the exact same position they came off, tightened all the lug nuts, let the car down onto its tires, and did the final torquing (110 ft lbs right?). Took the car for a spin, double checked the lug nuts again. Cleaned and popped the aero covers back on and Max is all set for a while!

I'm eager to put on my red wheel bands (EVAnnex) and am looking forward to getting the kit with the lug nut covers and center caps. It REALLY changes the look of the car without the Aero covers!
Thanks for all the details and photos! Helps me plan for similar needs. Please share photos and installation experience when you do the wheel bands!
 

tencate

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#14
The TPMS knows exactly which wheel is which. I bled a little air out of the driver's rear wheel just now and the sensor properly noted it right away. It's clever enough to know the wheels were rotated, nothing more needed. Or perhaps the sensor just reads the sensor closest to it and reports on that. I also torqued all the lug nuts to 129 ft lbs so all's well with Max and his wheels. I still have to measure the jack clearance, will get to that once I put air back in the tire. :)
 
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LUXMAN

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#15
So the sensor noted it while you were stationary? Mine doesn’t show pressures when its parked that I have seen
 

tencate

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#16
Yes, almost immediately. The OTHER three tires took a while to register and report, first the pair on the opposite side, then the front tire on the drivers side. But the one I'd let the air out of registered as soon as I got back into the car and put it in gear! I hadn't moved yet.
 

akomlik

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#18
On my Lotus and MR2 I used to swap street/race wheel sets by just jacking single rear point till both wheels come off the ground. I wonder if same would work on the Model 3. I use hockey puck as a shim between jack pad and the car.
 

teslarob

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#19
On my Lotus and MR2 I used to swap street/race wheel sets by just jacking single rear point till both wheels come off the ground. I wonder if same would work on the Model 3. I use hockey puck as a shim between jack pad and the car.
I've done this on a Model S before. I'd imagine it will work on the Model 3 as well, but haven't tried it yet.