P-Lo801

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Got my MPP sorts coilovers installed last week. Have driven over 1k miles and did a few laps at Laguna Seca. Car handles superb and is smoother than OEM. Will be raising the car since it's too low for daily use.
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I like the placement of the MPP decal! I wasn't sure what to do with mine, but you gave me an idea that I may follow.
 

Z P3D

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Sent Panda my own socket. I'm going to get a dozen of them and carry them in our store for anyone installing lowering springs/coilovers who doesn't have the resources to grind/machine sockets down themselves. It's such a time saver!

edit: holy crap it cost us $30 to send the one socket express! We will offer much cheaper shipping, you will just need to prepare for your suspension work by ordering ahead of time.
Hey do you guys still have some 13MM socket's available to send? I've scoured the web and industrial parts websites and still haven't found anything as thin as the socket you guys have gotten.
 

TwoK4drSi

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Hey do you guys still have some 13MM socket's available to send? I've scoured the web and industrial parts websites and still haven't found anything as thin as the socket you guys have gotten.
You’ll have to PM @awedio_femi to hook you up. He does machine lathing on the socket. Only use hand tools on it.
 

PandaM3

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Hey do you guys still have some 13MM socket's available to send? I've scoured the web and industrial parts websites and still haven't found anything as thin as the socket you guys have gotten.
Look up how it’s done on an Audi A4, undo the whole strut sub assembly (there are 3 bolts that secure the sub assembly) then you have easy access to to the top of the strut mounts. The front end is literally the same as an Audi A4 and the back end is the same as a Porsche 911.

By doing it this way you don’t need to deal with a ground down socket.
 

kwang0429

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Apr 18, 2019
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San DIego
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Hi everyone.

Been lurking on this forum since November but this is my first time posting. I just got done lowering my Model 3 using unplugged performance Moderate springs. I just wanted to see what everyone else experienced as far as expectations, ride quality, hiccups during installation, tips, and issues.

My installation experience:

Using the Unplugged Performance installation PDF, I did the installation myself. Overall, it was not too difficult for someone who has moderate wrenching experience. If you have never worked on suspension I would not recommend this as a DIY. The only part I had to get professional help was the decompression, removal, and installation of the spring onto the front strut. One helpful tip, on #10 of the removal process, the Unplugged Performance PDF simply states to remove the nut and bolt that clamps the upper control arm. I did that with the suspension fully extended(decompressed) and had a difficult time removing the bolt out of the clamp position. Even with the nut off, I had to turn the bolt counter clockwise until it came out. However, because there was tension on the bolt from the suspension being decompressed, I stripped the threads on the bolt. So here's the actual tip. Using a jack, put compression under the front suspension until the bolt simply pulls out using your hand's strength, jiggle it if you have to. The compression will release any tension on the bolt. with the bolt removed, the ball joint and clamp should separate with little to no force. I'm warning you now because I am in need of this bolt and Tesla does not have it in their parts catalog so my case has been escalated up to the Regional Parts Manager. Its been over a week and they have not been able to source this bolt. You Have Been Warned haha.

I would also suggest removing enough of the inner fender liner to have enough space to pull out the entire strut assembly. Trust me, you will thank me for it.


The rears springs were very easy and took me 20 minutes for the first rear spring and 3 minutes for the second rear spring after figuring how it worked. With the 2 bolts removed, literally just use your feet to press down on the control arm and yank out the spring. I pulled out the rubber pads and swapped them onto the new spring before I installed the spring/pads as a unit.
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The look:
Badass. The stance is perfect for my taste especially with the stock 18" wheels.

How does it drive and ride:
hrmmmmm....So take this with a grain of salt. After completing my installation, I didn't drive my Model 3 for over a week while waiting for that bolt(see above). However, I just drove my car tonight and I did notice some things different, but then again it could be all in my head...which is why I made this thread so I can get others' reaction and feedback.

I drove my car mildly for 45 minutes over various roads around my neighborhood including smooth roads, crap roads, small speed bumps and large bumps. The ride quality doesn't seem any softer than stock. If anything, i feel like the ride has slightly deteriorated. The oem ride was very firm, but damped bumps well whereas the lowering springs has a slight harshness upon initial impact of the bump that jitters the car around. I noticed my interior seems less tight in terms of creaks and rattles. Also, I believe there is more tire noise and my theory is because the lowering caused the camber to be negative, there is more force on the inner tread wall causing more tire roar from the tread blocks.

And I guess my biggest issue/concern is the rear end makes a tapping sound coinciding with small bumps in the road at low speed. This is weird to me because the front is much more complicated to work on than the rear yet the front end suspension is completely silent free from creaks or rattles. The tap sound is not there at high speeds, only low speed and low compression of the suspension. It is possible with the lowering springs, the coils themselves are coming in contact resulting in the sound. I'll have to investigate more.

Steering
The steering seems to react with sharper turn in almost as if the ration became tighter. Surprisingly, my alignment doesn't feel very off. The steering wheel stays straight with only a very minuscule pull to the left.

I'll give the suspension a few more days and miles to settle in before committing. I will say the car feels a bit like a tuner car in terms of new interior noise which I'm not sure I want. Is anyone else experiencing the same thing with their "Moderate" springs?










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Update 8/12 after several thousand miles
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Hi everyone! Life took over and i got super busy so I haven't been following the threads and wow! there have been a lot of new developments. I wanted to give my updated feedback on my Unplugged Moderate Springs impressions after having them for a few months and few road trips now. This is purely my observation and since OEM and aftermarket tweaks have been made since my original post, some facts may be incorrect and your results may differ.

Quick Refresher:
1. I have an early Model 3 taken delivery in late Decemeber 2017. Its VIN 1531. I presume I have the 1.0 factory springs.
2. I have an early batch Moderate UP lowering springs.

The Look:
Still looks awesome but I do agree that the reverse rake seems a bit off. The appearance doesn't bother me as much as the functionality.

The Functionality:
Being lowered, the egress and ingress is definitely more difficult. I feel like I fall into the seat and then climb out like I'm climbing out of a collapsed lawn chair (humor).

I also scrap even despite owning lowered cars in the past and an acura NSX. Oddly, its my rear end that scraps over california speed bumps even at idle speeds. The little air deflector just in front of the rear wheels scrap all the time.

I'm not a super heavy individual at 189lbs (on a good day lol) @ 6' and with my significant other in the car, I sometime bottom out the suspension travel when the battery pack right underneath my drivers seat touches the sped bump even at low speeds. Its annoying.

The Ride Quality:
Well.....spoiler alert, I'd like to go back to stock, maybe. (hopefully OEM 2.0)

The first several miles felt decent. I honestly didn't notice a huge improvement in ride quality over larger bumps. I actually felt like the lowering springs made the ride more twitchy. Let me elaborate. Right outside my neighborhood there is a long piece of rural undulating road where I often do full acceleration up to 70mph. (its not dangerous). The road surface isn't full of crack or potholes but more wavy. With the OEM 1.0, I can confidently accelerate up to 70 with firm but controlled body movement. It never once felt unsettling. With the UP Moderate springs, the rear end felt loose and unstable and a bit bouncy. On several other instances, the bypass between Sacramento and Davis on I-80 (locals should know exactly what I'm referring too) the ride becomes very bounce like a tuner car(rice bounce). Like someone on this thread said, there simply is not enough travel for the suspension to articulate the real world imperfections. Again, I have the early batch everything so your impressions may vary.

While the bounce was annoying, I could deal with it. I do feel the 1.0 dampers are under damped for lowering application. Over time and miles, i sense the ride quality has diminished as the dampers are wearing in a lowered position for which they were not designed for. During hard freeway impacts such as expansion joints with elevation differences, the suspension compression gives a harsh, crashing like sensation that was absent with the OEM suspension. At times it's almost spine shattering and feels like my old school modified BMW with firm polyurethane bushings. I would say this is the biggest turn off. I can deal with the slow speed bumps and occasional scraps but the defeats the purpose. How are the revised UP Moderate springs?

The Ride Noise:
It seems like there is more road noise coming into the cabin. Also, the rear end makes tapping noises over certain smaller, minimum compression bumps as if the car had a failed ball joint or failed strut mount(same kind of sound) I've had the rear springs removed and installed twice but the noise still persists.

Support from Unplugged Performance:
This part is interesting. So remember the picture UP posted showing a properly installed spring versus an improperly installed spring? The proper one had the lower coils separated with even spacing which the improper springs had coil bind where the coils would touch effectively making the dual rate design irrelevant. I voiced this concern and they said mine didn't look so bad and that it doesn't effect the functionality of the spring. In a nutshell, they seemed to have turned back on their original description. Check out the pictures I uploaded labeled "AUG UPDATE" It clearly shows the 1, the strut is off center relative to the springs, and 2, the spring is bowed, and 3, I believe the cause is because the top of the UP coil ends at a different spot on the strut mount when compared to OEM springs which probably resulted in the bow and uneven spring compression...leading to noises and mediocre spring performance.

So i'm kinda stuck, I want a slightly lowered look but the side effects of modification doesn't justify the loss of driving pleasure. I'm thinking I'll go back to stock but with the 2.0 OEM suspenion update. Hopefully, I can source a mild, single rate lowering kit that will compliment the revised 2.0 dampers better.

What have you guys been experiencing? any new aftermarket developments? Would love to hear your thoughts.

Cheers,



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Hi Jason:

I am having the same issue , there is metal hitting metal noise coming from the front passenger side, especially driving from uneven road or do turning. by any chance you have the problem resolved? would love to hear your input. thank you !
 

TwoK4drSi

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Hi Jason:

I am having the same issue , there is metal hitting metal noise coming from the front passenger side, especially driving from uneven road or do turning. by any chance you have the problem resolved? would love to hear your input. thank you !
Change them out for T sportlines
 

MountainPass

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dburkland

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TwoK4drSi

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Anyone with Tsportline springs on a M3 Standard Model Plus (RWD)? Looking to get it lowered with this, but not sure if it will change the ride comfort. I am looking to get this done purely for aesthetics, but don't want to sacrifice the current ride quality as it's pretty damn comfy right now.
 

Dfwatt

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Got a minor problem with my install rectified. They left out the OEM isolator at the top of the strut assembly and put in that really hard rubber piece that comes with the kit. Although you would think they were roughly equivalent, it turns out that the OEM piece is way better at absorbing sharp impacts.

In any case the kit is great, car is very comfortable but firm, doesn't roll much at all in the corners. But it's not harsh. Set the shocks a little firmer than their street recommendations at 10 / 8 instead of 12 / 10. I didn't think that would make much of a difference but it was detectable. Will be fiddling around and see how hard I can tolerate driving the car on the street. Overall, I couldn't be more pleased with how adjustable the kit is and how much you can tune the car to your preference. The Sports coilover kit from MPP is for sure the way to go!
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Last edited:
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Hi all,

I’ve been following this thread for a few weeks. I have a Model 3 Performance (Non-Performance Package) that I bought in Aug 2018. I recently upgraded my stock Aero wheels to 20” TSW Aileron wheels with a Toyo Proxes 4 Plus staggered wheels, mid-to-low profile tires, so not much cushioning.

I’m having the worst ride these days, it’s super bumpy, feels every pin on the road, every small groove or ditch the car goes over, hits my brain and my ears with the cabin making noise. On high speeds and big bumps, the car goes like a horse - up and down. I am so frustrated. I keep the PSI to 41 (Cool) - 45 (Hot). I’m looking for a smooth ride, something that will cushion up much more and give me less bumpy ride.

I called Unplugged Performance, they recommended MILD springs. I ordered them on the phone (free shipping), and they’re backordered till end of August.

Did I make the right call?