Learn from my tinting mistake

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TesLA3XL

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I haven't seen anyone actually test the factory tint on the upper rear/sunroof of the Model 3, but I would imagine it's pretty close to a typical SUV factory tint at about 20% TLV.

Personally since I was tinting EVERYTHING and I wanted it all to blend evenly I went 40% TLV. *Details/Link in my signature.

I didn't want to over darken the already tinted areas and at the same time stay off the radar of the Po-Po since front window tinting beyond 70% TLV is technically illegal here in NJ.

You should note though, regardless of how dark you go in the rear the part you actually view out with the mirror is basically the lower untinted section, so no worries about doubling up there. It's more the roof/sunroof and your preference of how much you would like to see out.
I went with 30% on the sides and the rear as a single piece. There really is no perfect science because of the back window is ready tinted and because it has a gradient there is no way to do the back window nicely aside from doing the entire window, so tint over tint. At 30% tint, I find the already tinted part to still allow for great visibility.

Thank you all. Looks like to get the uniformity I am seeking, I will need to go one piece roof inclusive of the rear window.
Some takeaways for me:
  • Tint over tint - good way to state that. LOL!
  • blend evenly
  • didn't want to over darken the already tinted areas

Final question: Does the tint over tint reduce the heat or sun noticeably? Or is that a function of what type of tint I get?
 

NJturtlePower

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Thank you all. Looks like to get the uniformity I am seeking, I will need to go one piece roof inclusive of the rear window.
Some takeaways for me:
  • Tint over tint - good way to state that. LOL!
  • blend evenly
  • didn't want to over darken the already tinted areas

Final question: Does the tint over tint reduce the heat or sun noticeably? Or is that a function of what type of tint I get?
Type of tint is more important than the doubling up. The factory UV/IR blocking is very good IMO up top and if you were sitting in the strong sun you would absolutely feel the difference on your skin compared to the side windows. This will not really make much difference to a parked car in the sun for any significant time, but will affect how much A/C you might need to use while driving.

Any ceramic or crystalline tint will noticeably block more heat, UV and IR than a traditional dyed (plastic) film and it also won't fade/discolor (turn purplish) like a dyed film will years down the road. Stick with any of the mid-range or better products from the big name films like Llumar, Xpel, SunTek, 3M and you'll be happy as long as the installer does a good job.

Example, browse the Llumar product line attached...most important collum IMO and many others would agree is the Total Solar Energy Rejection (TSER) which is the combination of all heat sources rejected vs plain clear glass. In the Formula One line you'll see that even the lightest shades will block more heat and IR than the darker shades of the lowest line dyed film meaning better visibility and protection.
 

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SoFlaModel3

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Final question: Does the tint over tint reduce the heat or sun noticeably? Or is that a function of what type of tint I get?
It really depends on the tint. I went with a Llumar Ceramic tint that has pretty good heat rejection properties, so it does help keep the car cool(er). At the end of the day my car sits outside in the Florida sun while I'm in my office for 9 hours and when I get out my car is 115F inside (and that's aided by my keeping the fan on when temps get high). More than anything its protecting the interior and electronics.

For me the value is looks and reduction of glare.
 

mscott

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Hi - new to the forum & wanted to get some clarity on tinting the M.3 before we pick our up this Sunday.

How dark is the roof relative to the other windows & rear window - coming from the factory? % wise?

When I ask for tint @ 35% on the side windows - what should I do for roof & rear?
Asking this last question because I have never really pay particular attention to the roof & rear window coloring.
I tinted 55% all around (except the windshield, which I did in 75%). Used Photosync, except for the rear window because my installer said getting Photosync large enough to tint the back window was really expensive (something close to $1K, just for the rear window). So I used Suntek on the big rear window ($450) and I can't tell any difference in color or shade from the side windows.

I also had them apply 55% on the top roof glass, and I'm actually regretting that. It's made it so dark and reflective that you can't see out of it ever (day or night). It's already very dark and blocks a ton of heat, and adding tint just makes it more reflective inside as well as out. I'm thinking of having them remove that tint completely. Besides, it's not like that window doesn't already look different—when it's wet it's orange!
 

TesLA3XL

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Type of tint is more important than the doubling up. The factory UV/IR blocking is very good IMO up top and if you were sitting in the strong sun you would absolutely feel the difference on your skin compared to the side windows. This will not really make much difference to a parked car in the sun for any significant time, but will affect how much A/C you might need to use while driving.

Any ceramic or crystalline tint will noticeably block more heat, UV and IR than a traditional dyed (plastic) film and it also won't fade/discolor (turn purplish) like a dyed film will years down the road. Stick with any of the mid-range or better products from the big name films like Llumar, Xpel, SunTek, 3M and you'll be happy as long as the installer does a good job.

Example, browse the Llumar product line attached...most important collum IMO and many others would agree is the Total Solar Energy Rejection (TSER) which is the combination of all heat sources rejected vs plain clear glass. In the Formula One line you'll see that even the lightest shades will block more heat and IR than the darker shades of the lowest line dyed film meaning better visibility and protection.
Ha - you showed the exact tint line - Llumar Formula One - my installer has put on my last 4 cars :)

Llumar is a great tint but I really never thought of it in a heat rejection concept. But with a glass roof, I am naturally more interested.

Did you go with the F1?

Also revisiting your 40% all-around tinting - did the roof look noticeably darker from inside & out?
 

SoFlaModel3

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Ha - you showed the exact tint line - Llumar Formula One - my installer has put on my last 4 cars :)

Llumar is a great tint but I really never thought of it in a heat rejection concept. But with a glass roof, I am naturally more interested.

Did you go with the F1?

Also revisiting your 40% all-around tinting - did the roof look noticeably darker from inside & out?
This is 30% (so darker than 40%), but really the problem with trusting tint photos is that lighting conditions and angles make a major difference. You really have to see this (more than anything) in person.

Top portion is the “sunroof” with no extra tint

Bottom portion is the top of the rear glass with factory tint + 30% ceramic.

2e9dd674-15d6-420b-b99a-5e677f9d316d-jpeg.23646
 

TesLA3XL

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This is 30% (so darker than 40%), but really the problem with trusting tint photos is that lighting conditions and angles make a major difference. You really have to see this (more than anything) in person.

Top portion is the “sunroof” with no extra tint

Bottom portion is the top of the rear glass with factory tint + 30% ceramic.

I guess the sky makes the top portion (roof) look lighter even though it has same tint all the way down the rear window?
 

NJturtlePower

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Ha - you showed the exact tint line - Llumar Formula One - my installer has put on my last 4 cars :)

Llumar is a great tint but I really never thought of it in a heat rejection concept. But with a glass roof, I am naturally more interested.

Did you go with the F1?

Also revisiting your 40% all-around tinting - did the roof look noticeably darker from inside & out?
Yes, mine is F1 Pinnacle Ceramic 40%. I HAD Stratos (Lumars best and newest tint) 70% on my windshield as well, but lost that in a deer accident back in Oct. 2018. :(

Stratos Ceramic is often priced 30-50% higher than Pinnacle and at that price not worth it IMO, but some people always want the best.
 

SoFlaModel3

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I guess the sky makes the top portion (roof) look lighter even though it has same tint all the way down the rear window?
To clarify the window that looks lighter is not tint over tint so it is in fact lighter — just pointing out that pictures can be deceiving as it doesn’t look that different to the naked eye.
 

TesLA3XL

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To clarify the window that looks lighter is not tint over tint so it is in fact lighter — just pointing out that pictures can be deceiving as it doesn’t look that different to the naked eye.
Ok gotcha.. So you left the roof factory & tined the rear window.
 

CJM986

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25% should look really nice! Personally I would have liked a pinch darker.

I didn’t do anything on the the windshield. I’ve only done a tint strip once before and didn’t love it. With the big open view, I just didn’t want to mess with it.

No wrap either — at some point you reach the budget limit and I exceeded mine :)
SoFlaModel3,

I know you went 30% all around. I plan to do the passenger & driver side windows in LLumar 30% ceramic as well, both for night time visibility (learned my lesson going darker) & FL legal limit (28%). I've been debating going darker with the rear side windows as well as back roof/window for a little more privacy, but I don't want them to look too "mismatched" on the sides of the car (or go too dark & hinder rear night time visibility).

When you said "Personally I would have liked a pinch darker," do you mean 25% on those rear sides & the back/roof would have made you happy (& meet my goals), or do you mean even darker at 20%? I can't seem to find anyone in Orlando who has done their Model 3 in a 30% & 25% combination (only 20% or darker all around) so I can see it for myself, so value your thoughts/opinion before I pull the trigger. Thanks!
 

SoFlaModel3

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SoFlaModel3,

I know you went 30% all around. I plan to do the passenger & driver side windows in LLumar 30% ceramic as well, both for night time visibility (learned my lesson going darker) & FL legal limit (28%). I've been debating going darker with the rear side windows as well as back roof/window for a little more privacy, but I don't want them to look too "mismatched" on the sides of the car (or go too dark & hinder rear night time visibility).

When you said "Personally I would have liked a pinch darker," do you mean 25% on those rear sides & the back/roof would have made you happy (& meet my goals), or do you mean even darker at 20%? I can't seem to find anyone in Orlando who has done their Model 3 in a 30% & 25% combination (only 20% or darker all around) so I can see it for myself, so value your thoughts/opinion before I pull the trigger. Thanks!
Trying to remember — I think I meant I have 30% and would have liked a little darker (ie 25%), but ultimately very happy with 30% as not being too dark at night and within Florida’s legal limits.
 

Robin_C

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Alright here you go!

First one, top is the factory tinted sunroof and bottom is the rear window with factory tint and 30% over it.

View attachment 5792

Left is factory tinted sunroof and right is factory tint covered by 30% tint.

View attachment 5793

I would suggest the pictures are hard to capture and exaggerate it.
Does tinting you roof affects the looks of the orange UV coating?
Thanks
 
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SoFlaModel3

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Does tinting you roof affects the looks of the orange UV coating?
Thanks
No impact — but for cars with the full rear window coating it does make it easier to see the effect on the lower untinted portion
 

MelindaV

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SoFlaModel3,

I've been debating going darker with the rear side windows as well as back roof/window for a little more privacy, but I don't want them to look too "mismatched" on the sides of the car (or go too dark & hinder rear night time visibility).
on a previous car, I did this - legal 35% on the front side windows, and 20% on the rear side and rear glass. (here the legal is 35% across all side/rear windows, so I was still beyond the legal limit, but thought it was a good compromise ;) )

At some point, I had a break-in that scratched up one of the front side window's tint, and ended up having the fronts replaced with 20%.
PM me if you want to see pix and I can point you to some (ok, really I can point you to a ton more than you would probably need :) )
 

marcsf

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I just bought a 2017 Model S 100D and really love it except the unbelievable sun exposure through mostly the front windshield but also the side windows. The glass roof seems fine as it's tinted/coated.

I'm thinking of something like the 3M Crystalline but then read about the PhotoSync 75 which isn't dark but filters a lot of UV/IR.

My model S is pearl white so don't want dark windows.
Ideas?
 

Darelldd

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My model S is pearl white so don't want dark windows.
Ideas?
My only relevant idea is that tinted windows with Pearl White is awesome. Turns out that dark windows with ANY color is better than clear glass. Even if aesthetics is your only reason for tinting.