How To: Perform Hard Reset on Model 3

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MountainPass

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#1
Hello friends!

Sasha's music streaming stopped working for a full day last week, and after we got it back up and running using this procedure we realized it would be selfish to not share it with all of you.

This guide will walk you through how to perform a hard reset on your Tesla Model 3, and hopefully, save you a trip to the SC!

Please let us know what issues you were having and if this helped you resolve them, we would love to hear it.

https://www.mountainpassperformance.com/tesla-model-3-hard-reset/

- Jesse
 

MelindaV

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#2
Hello friends!

Sasha's music streaming stopped working for a full day last week, and after we got it back up and running using this procedure we realized it would be selfish to not share it with all of you.

This guide will walk you through how to perform a hard reset on your Tesla Model 3, and hopefully, save you a trip to the SC!

Please let us know what issues you were having and if this helped you resolve them, we would love to hear it.

https://www.mountainpassperformance.com/tesla-model-3-hard-reset/

- Jesse
what is this doing that the power down under the security/service menu doesn't do?
 

NR4P

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#3
what is this doing that the power down under the security/service menu doesn't do?
The service menu power down does not completely power down. I have a radar detector powered from a 12v line and that line did not go dark when I did the menu power down.

Now I can't answer if the extensive power removal procedure does anything more to some memory or logic, but I did want to answer your question that the menu power down is not 100%.

My BSM audio chime hasn't worked in weeks and the local SC is trying to figure out why remotely, maybe I should try this procedure.
 

Dr. J

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#4
For the record, from Reddit:

Reboot / Power Off Procedures
Try these steps in this order, most issues can be solved by a basic reboot:

  • Soft Reboot: Hold down both steering wheel buttons until the screen goes black and continue holding until the Tesla logo appears. Then let go.
  • Hard Reboot: Hold down both steering wheel buttons and press on the brake until the screen goes black.Continue holding until the Tesla logo appears. Then let go.
  • Power Off/On: Under Vehicle Controls -> Safety and Security > Power Off (wait 2-3 minutes before pressing the Brake). Or leave powered off overnight but plugged in). This often fixes some "AP/Cruise not available" issues.
 

JWardell

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#5
The point is to try the above software resets and power down first, but none of these fully power down everything.
If things still aren't right, @MountainPass 's instructions truly remove all 12v power from all systems for a true hard power off.
 

Tesla Newbie

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#6
For the record, from Reddit:

Reboot / Power Off Procedures
Try these steps in this order, most issues can be solved by a basic reboot:

  • Soft Reboot: Hold down both steering wheel buttons until the screen goes black and continue holding until the Tesla logo appears. Then let go.
  • Hard Reboot: Hold down both steering wheel buttons and press on the brake until the screen goes black.Continue holding until the Tesla logo appears. Then let go.
  • Power Off/On: Under Vehicle Controls -> Safety and Security > Power Off (wait 2-3 minutes before pressing the Brake). Or leave powered off overnight but plugged in). This often fixes some "AP/Cruise not available" issues.
I wish Tesla would offer an official confirmation that the hard reboot described here differs in some meaningful way from the soft. People I respect on this and other forums have written that the hard/soft distinction is the automotive equivalent of an urban legend. I always use the brake because, why not? Can anyone explain the nature of a problem you believe would be resolved one way but not the other?
 

John

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#7
And I’ve heard on Model 3 the brake does nothing.

And that the trick to a menu-driven Power Off is not touching anything after doing it for 5 minutes.
 

MountainPass

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what is this doing that the power down under the security/service menu doesn't do?
That only puts the car in sleep mode, it wakes up instantly when you push the brake pedal. This method completely disconnects power from all systems to let them reset.
 

MountainPass

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#10
For the record, from Reddit:

Reboot / Power Off Procedures
Try these steps in this order, most issues can be solved by a basic reboot:

  • Soft Reboot: Hold down both steering wheel buttons until the screen goes black and continue holding until the Tesla logo appears. Then let go.
  • Hard Reboot: Hold down both steering wheel buttons and press on the brake until the screen goes black.Continue holding until the Tesla logo appears. Then let go.
  • Power Off/On: Under Vehicle Controls -> Safety and Security > Power Off (wait 2-3 minutes before pressing the Brake). Or leave powered off overnight but plugged in). This often fixes some "AP/Cruise not available" issues.
These are the easiest to try first!
 

mswlogo

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#11
For the record, from Reddit:

Reboot / Power Off Procedures
Try these steps in this order, most issues can be solved by a basic reboot:

  • Soft Reboot: Hold down both steering wheel buttons until the screen goes black and continue holding until the Tesla logo appears. Then let go.
  • Hard Reboot: Hold down both steering wheel buttons and press on the brake until the screen goes black.Continue holding until the Tesla logo appears. Then let go.
  • Power Off/On: Under Vehicle Controls -> Safety and Security > Power Off (wait 2-3 minutes before pressing the Brake). Or leave powered off overnight but plugged in). This often fixes some "AP/Cruise not available" issues.
Also add Factory Reset I've done this a couple times and I think it has reduced or eliminated some gremlins. Hard to prove without a "control" (another car that I didn't reset ;) )

I'd do a factory reset before disconnecting cables. But with factory reset you do lose things like your "lifetime odometer", "home link", profiles, etc.
 

MountainPass

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Also add Factory Reset I've done this a couple times and I think it has reduced or eliminated some gremlins. Hard to prove without a "control" (another car that I didn't reset ;) )

I'd do a factory reset before disconnecting cables. But with factory reset you do lose things like your "lifetime odometer", "home link", profiles, etc.
I wouldn't want to lose those, we are still working to bring down our lifetime Wh/km average.
 

mswlogo

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#13
I wouldn't want to lose those, we are still working to bring down our lifetime Wh/km average.
I can understand folks not wanting to lose that and I hesitated for a long time doing a factory reset because of that, that's why I mentioned it.
In the end, I don't care any more and I feel less anal (less obsessed) now that it's gone.
I did have it from day 0 too. All I care about is how the car is performing over the last few months.
 
Last edited:

John

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#15
I wish Tesla would offer an official confirmation that the hard reboot described here differs in some meaningful way from the soft. People I respect on this and other forums have written that the hard/soft distinction is the automotive equivalent of an urban legend. I always use the brake because, why not? Can anyone explain the nature of a problem you believe would be resolved one way but not the other?
My impression was that the brake used to (may still) make a difference during resets in S/X.