How-To Guide: Model 3 SR+ aftermarket to enable speakers and subwoofer upgrade install

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I met local car audio shop and explained the steps. They worked on Teslas but not on Model3 s. He agreed to most of the steps but didn’t see a need for LC7I or the 12v switched power source. Instead he is recommending a Class D amplifier 6 channel amplifier with GTO and LC builtin so it won’t draw power when the music is not on. AudioControl LC-6.1200 specifically. One other question he had was if the penthouse 12v power tap has constant power to the amp. Do you see any issue with this?
If the amp knows to turn on with a music source then that can work, too. The penthouse should be a true constant 12v power.
 
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I would prefer to tap the front dash speakers as signal for the front mirror tweeters and A-pillar tweeters. Does anyone know where the best place is to do this?


Do you know which wires they tapped to do this?
Interested in getting signal from front dash mids as well, as signal for door and a-pillar tweeters. Anyone have detail on best location to tap in and wire colors? Thanks!
 
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I did a tone test on the audio harness for the Model 3 SR+ delivered June 2019 and this is what I am using to do my install if anyone needs it.
This is great to be able to tap in all signals at a common location. A couple questions though. 1. Where is this connector located? 2. Can you determine polarity and if so indicate? I wonder if what you have indicated as ??? is perhaps a microphone input, for voice command/hands free phone?
 
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This is great to be able to tap in all signals at a common location. A couple questions though. 1. Where is this connector located? 2. Can you determine polarity and if so indicate? I wonder if what you have indicated as ??? is perhaps a microphone input, for voice command/hands free phone?
I believe this is the connector under the glove box. I would greatly appreciate polarity of these wires.
 
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Thanks to this thread and a couple of Pms to Wampa I was able to install the Kenwood subwoofer and enable the rear deck speakers. I didn't bother with tweeters. Overall it's 1. time consuming with t-taps 2. posi-taps are better. 3. not sure i would do it again.
When you say you wouldn't do it again, do you mean in terms of bang for your (time) buck?

I had an aftermarket sub installed, and an amp/dsp to power the L/R front dash speakers, activated tweeters by the mirrors and the woofers in the front doors. The rear door speakers, hooked up to the factory amp, sound wimpy. Thinking of having the rear deck speakers activated and connected to the factory amp, but I'm thinking it probably won't make a difference if I'm powering the others through an aftermarket amp?
 
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When you say you wouldn't do it again, do you mean in terms of bang for your (time) buck?

I had an aftermarket sub installed, and an amp/dsp to power the L/R front dash speakers, activated tweeters by the mirrors and the woofers in the front doors. The rear door speakers, hooked up to the factory amp, sound wimpy. Thinking of having the rear deck speakers activated and connected to the factory amp, but I'm thinking it probably won't make a difference if I'm powering the others through an aftermarket amp?
no it sounds great but the effort it took was tiring
 
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It was a lot of work for me, especially since I was dealing with constant 90-degree heat and low-light conditions. If I were to do it all over again I would ONLY enable the rear speakers with a tiny amp, as they make a huge difference in sound quality. It's a real shame Tesla didn't activate them as standard.
 
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This is great to be able to tap in all signals at a common location. A couple questions though. 1. Where is this connector located? 2. Can you determine polarity and if so indicate? I wonder if what you have indicated as ??? is perhaps a microphone input, for voice command/hands free phone?
It's under the glove box... Main computer (silver and obvious) it is the big white harness with "wings" and 16 wires coming out of it. I sent audio to each pin and that's what I got. Polarity is something I'll determine as I re-wire all of my speakers. I am doing full new speaker wire to everything and sending signal from there to the amps... I'll fix as I go and update as I know on that. Hope it helps, as I could find absolutely 0 info on the SR+ harness. Great info on the Premium one though.
 
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Here is where the connector is located. It may not be easy to tap from the connector.
But it would be cool if you could make a tapped adapter to plug in between the MCU and the wired connector.



PLUR figured out the polarities and posted them on the 1st post of this thread.
But it doesn't match smul's connector pin out!
I wonder if Tesla changed the connector?
Rear shelf 4” speakers: (Right: Yellow - , Gray +) (Left: White- , Purple +)
Rear door 4” speakers: (driver’s (left) Black -, Red +) (Passenger (right) Blue +, Green -)
Door mirror tweeters: (Passenger (right): Red - , White +) (driver’s (left): Purple - , Black +)
-Caution: remember to turn on your amp high pass filter/add bass blocker when powering tweeters connections
Door woofer: (driver’s (left): Blue -, White +) (Passenger (right): Orange +, Black -)
 
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I ended up taking the safe (making sure i didn't tap the wrong wire) but difficult route. Removed the front dash panel and speakers and tapped in right at the speakers. As others have mentioned the screws are nearly impossible to get out/in due to clearance to windshield, wires are small, and no excess in the harness. On RH side I tried T-taps, actually had to shave wire insulation off with an x-acto knife to get contact as insulation is like armor. On the LH side there was so little excess in harness, I ended up taking a couple female wire connectors, opening them up a little with a small screwdriver, and sliding them on to metal tabs that stick out from speaker. May not be the "proper" way, but it was better than t-tap and got a good signal.

Also tapped signal from rear door mids, wire color matched PLUR's mapping.

Since I'm planning to run signal to Door mirror tweeters and A-pillar tweeters, verified the mirror tweeter wire colors matched, and checked a-pillar tweeters.

A-pillar LH : bright green and grey, could not make out polarity.
A-pillar RH: orange and brown, could not make out polarity.

The harness on the RH side that runs up the A-pillar DOES NOT have any orange or brown wires in it.
The harness on the LH side A-pillar has green and grey, AND orange and brown , both individual pairs twisted together, so I'm fairly confident that both could be connected here, or down behind kick panel on LH side. But since I'm planning to wire the mirror tweeter and a-pillar tweeter together, I will probably just run wires on RH side up a-pillar and connect up near the speaker.
 

Mr. Spacely

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It was a lot of work for me, especially since I was dealing with constant 90-degree heat and low-light conditions. If I were to do it all over again I would ONLY enable the rear speakers with a tiny amp, as they make a huge difference in sound quality. It's a real shame Tesla didn't activate them as standard.
Would you even need a "tiny Amp" for the rear speakers? Or could you just tap into existing wires? Installing the actual rear speakers would be the easy part...
 
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Would you even need a "tiny Amp" for the rear speakers? Or could you just tap into existing wires? Installing the actual rear speakers would be the easy part...
Since those are 3 ohm speakers in both rear doors and rear deck, if wired in parallel your impedance would calculate to 1.5 ohm, and most car amps are designed to operate on minimum 2ohm load. If wired in series, you'd have sufficient impedance (6 ohm), but reduce the power of the amp, so balance would need to be adjusted, and you may hit volume limit sooner.
 

Mr. Spacely

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Since those are 3 ohm speakers in both rear doors and rear deck, if wired in parallel your impedance would calculate to 1.5 ohm, and most car amps are designed to operate on minimum 2ohm load. If wired in series, you'd have sufficient impedance (6 ohm), but reduce the power of the amp, so balance would need to be adjusted, and you may hit volume limit sooner.
Helpful. Thanks. (I still hope to find a Tesla specialist near me to add some speakers.)
 
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Since those are 3 ohm speakers in both rear doors and rear deck, if wired in parallel your impedance would calculate to 1.5 ohm, and most car amps are designed to operate on minimum 2ohm load. If wired in series, you'd have sufficient impedance (6 ohm), but reduce the power of the amp, so balance would need to be adjusted, and you may hit volume limit sooner.
If you tapped into the rear door speakers for a signal for the rear decks, what kind of an amp would you need to power those four speakers to avoid hitting the early volume limit? With the speakers having an impedance of 3 ohms, would a 4 x 4 ohm amp work? What would the downsides be to that kind of a setup? Thanks!
 
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If you tapped into the rear door speakers for a signal for the rear decks, what kind of an amp would you need to power those four speakers to avoid hitting the early volume limit? With the speakers having an impedance of 3 ohms, would a 4 x 4 ohm amp work? What would the downsides be to that kind of a setup? Thanks!
Alpine KTP-445u, the amp @PLUR recommends 1st post in this thread.
 

smul

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Here is where the connector is located. It may not be easy to tap from the connector.
But it would be cool if you could make a tapped adapter to plug in between the MCU and the wired connector.

View attachment 28767 View attachment 28768 View attachment 28769

PLUR figured out the polarities and posted them on the 1st post of this thread.
But it doesn't match smul's connector pin out!
I wonder if Tesla changed the connector?
My pin out was for a SR+ not the premium sound that was in the other post. I'll get polarity.. asked around and have a quick method to do it... I'll try for tonight.
 
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A question to anyone still contributing to this thread. I installed pretty much everything as suggested on the OP. thank you guys very much btw for paving the way. I wanted to let you guys know I could not use the same red wire for the 12v accessory. It would not power either the alpine or a power amp I bought. So I found another power source from an adjacent connector that did power the remote. I am now currently waiting to see if the car falls asleep and kills power via remote. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks