How-To Guide: Model 3 SR+ aftermarket to enable speakers and subwoofer upgrade install

  • SUPPORT THE SITE AND ENJOY A PREMIUM EXPERIENCE!
    Welcome to Tesla Owners Online, four years young! For a low subscription fee, you will receive access to an ad-free version of TOO. We now offer yearly memberships! You can subscribe via this direct link:
    https://teslaownersonline.com/account/upgrades

    SUBSCRIBE TO OUR YOUTUBE CHANNEL!
    Did you know we have a YouTube channel that's all about Tesla? Lots of Tesla information, fun, vlogs, product reviews, and a weekly Tesla Owners Online Podcast as well!

Joined
Jun 5, 2019
Messages
14
Location
United Kingdom
Tesla Owner
Model 3
Country
Country
Another thing the LC2i/LC7i has besides volume controls is the bass processor, which assuming the bass is probably rolled off where we are tapping off for the subwoofer allows us to boost the bass frequencies.
Those devices are expensive and hard to come by in the UK. I'm not fitting a sub so it can't be that big of a deal?
 
Joined
Jun 13, 2019
Messages
15
Location
Vancouver, Canada
Tesla Owner
Model 3
Country
Country
Yep I found mine on eBay. Seem to be a few around the $300 range but occasionally you can get one cheaper.

As for a small update I just removed the rear seat and unfortunately my 5-channel amp is too big to fit under the side cushion. Going to experiment with a few mounting locations but I absolutely want it to look OEM.
How did you wire the OEM sub to the amp, does sub enclosure have RCA connections or did you have to modify?
 

PLUR

Active member
Joined
Sep 7, 2017
Messages
51
Location
westmisnter
Country
Country
Well spotted. How about this one, has volume controls and speaker level input!

Kenwood KACPS404 4 Channel Power Amplifier, 550 W

Also, is the high pass filter enough or do I need bass blockers for the tweeters, and what kind of cable is needed to connect the 12v accessory to the amp?
That's seems to be a good alternative choice. You have to check what freq is high pass filter; I added bass blockers to be sure in mine. To power your Kenwood amp, use the 12V from the penthouse.
You might not even need LC2i/LC7i, it add slight improvement.
 
Joined
Jul 4, 2019
Messages
19
Location
Scottsdale, AZ
Tesla Owner
Model 3
Country
Country
How did you wire the OEM sub to the amp, does sub enclosure have RCA connections or did you have to modify?
I haven't finished the wiring yet, but I went from 4-wires to 2-wires, going from dual 4-ohm to a 2-ohm output. I'll have more info in a few weeks (on holiday).
 
Joined
Jul 2, 2019
Messages
8
Location
Charleston, SC
Tesla Owner
Model 3
Country
Country
I'm not sure which thread is the most appropriate one for this information so posting here too.

I just had a car audio shop enable the mirror tweeters, rear deck speakers and add a sub to my SR (almost exactly as PLUR and fstr described, thank you both). Best investment I've made in a while. What an improvement! One interesting tidbit worth passing along. I sent them the speaker frequencies that travis determined for the premium build. They claim that in the SR, the front deck mids include the higher frequencies the MR/LR/premium front deck mids don't include, likely due to tweeters existing on those trims but not being enabled in the SR trim. They claimed that because of this, it made more sense to tap into the front deck mid signals for enabling the tweeters since the fade then still works correctly. Not sure whether to believe all this but passing it along.

One question I have while my car is still in the shop. I have two Amps (4 channel and 1 channel) and an LC2i installed for the sub. They are not using vcleft at all for the Remote On right now (which is what I requested) and are instead relying on the auto sensing features of the LC2i and 4 channel amp to turn on and off the amps. I am worried this will result in an error message at some point. Is there consensus yet on whether vcleft is a requirement for the Remote On to avoid issues, especially if using Sentry Mode?

Thanks all! This forum is amazing!
 
Joined
Jun 5, 2019
Messages
14
Location
United Kingdom
Tesla Owner
Model 3
Country
Country
That's seems to be a good alternative choice. You have to check what freq is high pass filter; I added bass blockers to be sure in mine. To power your Kenwood amp, use the 12V from the penthouse.
You might not even need LC2i/LC7i, it add slight improvement.
Only problem is, it's not a class D amplifier.

Do I need to touch the 12v accessory as it has signal sensing turn-on?
 
Last edited:

PLUR

Active member
Joined
Sep 7, 2017
Messages
51
Location
westmisnter
Country
Country
I'm not sure which thread is the most appropriate one for this information so posting here too.
One question I have while my car is still in the shop. I have two Amps (4 channel and 1 channel) and an LC2i installed for the sub. They are not using vcleft at all for the Remote On right now (which is what I requested) and are instead relying on the auto sensing features of the LC2i and 4 channel amp to turn on and off the amps. I am worried this will result in an error message at some point. Is there consensus yet on whether vcleft is a requirement for the Remote On to avoid issues, especially if using Sentry Mode?
Thanks all! This forum is amazing!
Only problem is, it's not a class D amplifier.
Do I need to touch the 12v accessory as it has signal sensing turn-on?
I actually use GTO setting on LC7i, which is equivalent to auto-sensing turn on from the speaker wire input. Non-classD is still okay if that's all you find, it just uses a little more power.
I have vcleft powers lc7i (non-amp), and remote out of lc7i go in amp remote in. My thinking is even if sentry mode is on my system wont be on since power for accessory vcleft is off.
Forgot where I read but I think several people skip the vcleft altogether and their sub system still function alright with sentry mode on.
 

PLUR

Active member
Joined
Sep 7, 2017
Messages
51
Location
westmisnter
Country
Country
I was able to get the top A pillar tweeters working. It add a very slight sound improvement only, so don't think it is a critical if you don't have it.

Basically, I pulled the plug out from the these tweeters, and run my own wire down.
These A pillar tweeters are glued down so any attempt to remove it will be a pain.

You will need to remove the trim of the A pillar out, and from there you will pry slightly the trim that houses the A pillar top tweeters. I used a small pliers and stick inside and unplug the connector.
You can see on image. After the connector is out, I cut out the connector completely and add in my own speaker wiring to run it down along the A pillar trim.

For power, it starts from the 4ch amp > 1 channel output power(+/- wires) for left tweeter goes into the input of a bass blocker. The output +/- wires from the bass blockers are split into two sets of +/- wires. One set of +/- wires goes to the mirror tweeter and the second set of +/- goes to the A pillar top tweeter. And then you do the same thing for the other side.

For Polarity: the driver A pillar top tweeter Green (+) and Gray (-).
I forgot to document the passenger one but you can tell a wire is negative if it has an extra plastic tab at the end.

 
Joined
Jun 5, 2019
Messages
14
Location
United Kingdom
Tesla Owner
Model 3
Country
Country
I actually use GTO setting on LC7i, which is equivalent to auto-sensing turn on from the speaker wire input. Non-classD is still okay if that's all you find, it just uses a little more power.
I have vcleft powers lc7i (non-amp), and remote out of lc7i go in amp remote in. My thinking is even if sentry mode is on my system wont be on since power for accessory vcleft is off.
Forgot where I read but I think several people skip the vcleft altogether and their sub system still function alright with sentry mode on.
So there's no need to get accessory power?
 

rslider

New Member
Joined
Jul 21, 2019
Messages
1
Location
Canada
Tesla Owner
Model 3
Country
Country
I'm hoping that at some point someone becomes a specialist in Tesla stereos. I have the SR+ and would love to upgrade. I don't want to do the work myself (and am afraid I'd short the whole car out!).
I too would love this.

But even better, if there was a YouTube video series to follow on this whole process, then I'd feel much better about doing it. I've upgraded all the speakers and added a sub in my old car, but for some reason this just feels much MUCH more daunting.
 
Joined
Jun 13, 2019
Messages
15
Location
Vancouver, Canada
Tesla Owner
Model 3
Country
Country
So here is my latest train of thought. Get the pioneer amp from that was noted earlier, Amazon product , connect the front tweeter mirrors and rear deck. For the sub, not exactly sure but perhaps the oem sub.

For the install, what am i missing:
-connect remote wire to lc7i or lc2i (not sure which one i need) and then to pioneer amp
-tap rear mids to get connection for rear deck and front tweeters, then do these connections go into the lc7i and then to the pioneer amp?
-tap front door subs, then does this goes into the lc7i and then to the pioneer amp?
-do i also need to get a resistor?

i've been reading and reading and just want to make sure i have a good understanding of all that is needed, thank you!
 
Last edited:

LakeWorthB

Active member
Joined
Mar 16, 2019
Messages
42
Location
Palm Beach County, FL
Country
Country
Here is something that might be interesting to others. I found the Tesla part for the subwoofer is 1079747-00-D, and was told I could order from service center for $240. They are mostly selling for $350 on ebay used, but this is an option if someone wanted a stock sub fit.
 

trdb

New Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2019
Messages
2
Location
Canada
Tesla Owner
Model 3
Country
Country
I’m getting ready to copy this set up almost entirely.. thanks a ton for the instructions! Made an account just to be able to follow this.
One question... what am I using to tap into the 12V DC... 14 AWG wire?
 

PLUR

Active member
Joined
Sep 7, 2017
Messages
51
Location
westmisnter
Country
Country
-connect remote wire to lc7i or lc2i (not sure which one i need) and then to pioneer amp
-tap rear mids to get connection for rear deck and front tweeters, then do these connections go into the lc7i and then to the pioneer amp?
-tap front door subs, then does this goes into the lc7i and then to the pioneer amp?
-do i also need to get a resistor?
Sounds about right, I do not have resistor/relay in my setup, but several people recommend it so it's up to you. Good luck.

@trdb
The 12V+ Remote in I just use leftover speaker wire that was 16g so your 14awg should be good. 12v penthouse for the sub amp should use 8 or 4awg depends on your amp power need.

@PLUR Are you in Maryland, by chance?
Sorry, I'm not from there.
 
Joined
Jun 2, 2019
Messages
20
Location
Wuebec
Country
Country
I've been watching the SR+ stereo upgrade thread since I got my car at the beginning of June. I am fanatical about OEM fit and finish so I was in no mood to install a custom box or use the trunk nook. The only thing stopping me was finding a reasonably priced OEM subwoofer box.

I scoured eBay and assumed the part was expensive because of the asking price for a used one. It finally occurred to me to call Tesla to see how much it was. I couldn't believe the price: $250 USD ($300 CAD)!!! Thats $100 to $150 less than some eBayers ask for the a used one with shipping! I immediately ordered one and the 3 OEM mounting screws (about $3.00). I sweated a little when they asked for my VIN but they didn't seem to care that it was an SR+.



screen-shot-2019-07-31-at-11-07-21-pm-png.28057


Box and Speaker:

AUDIO,SPEAKER,SUBWOOFER,ASY (includes speaker) 1079747-00-D


Screws (for that OEM experience):

SEMS[CON],HX,M6-1x19,[98],ZNNI,ADH,MAT 1448919-00-A

KEPS[CON],HX,M6-1.0,[8],ZNNI,PTP 1137563-00-A (these come 2 to a pack)
























Part#