How-To Guide: Model 3 SR+ aftermarket to enable speakers and subwoofer upgrade install

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@SebasKTM thanks for the bracket information. Now I might actually have a reason to get a welder after telling the electrician I needed that 240V outlet installed to do some light welding projects :)

Thanks again for the connector information. I bought a set to make some cables to upgrade the 4" midrange speakers.
I bought the pins, housing and retainer clip (covers the latch for the pins).
I went with the male pin connectors to match what is on the stock speakers (I hope the harness just plugs in to this). Upgrading the front 3 4" midranges this weekend.
View attachment 28967
Good luck, and show us the results!
 

Swba

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How does the fade or audio settings work after tapping the signal from rear door speakers for front front tweeters?
 
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how does everyones B pillar look after they pulled it back? i feel like it never snapped back the same. if i pull back the weather stripping, it's not sitting flush
 

PLUR

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How does the fade or audio settings work after tapping the signal from rear door speakers for front front tweeters?
I just set it once by adjusting in the amp and left it like so. If you don't use fade setting often then it shouldn't be an issue.

how does everyones B pillar look after they pulled it back? i feel like it never snapped back the same. if i pull back the weather stripping, it's not sitting flush
When I was putting mine back, I had to made several attempts since one of the pins in the middle fell out and weren't aligned. You can check this schematic of the B pillar trim from tesla to understand how it should fit in and make sure the pins are line up.
 
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Hello,
Newbie here. Never worked on a car audio system before. Have a newly acquired SR+ and hate the audio system. Since i am not very handy, I am just looking to power the rear deck speakers, front tweeters and a pillar speakers. Don't want to do the sub right now. So i guess i need

1) A 4 channel amp (maybe 5 channel if i want to do a sub in the future).
2) The LC6i is primarily used to control the signal level going into the amp to maintain speaker sound levels appropriately. So, if i find an amp where i can control this GTO and LC (there was a link to a soundstream amp that did this but it didnt work well in extreme temperatures) then can i skip the Lc6i? Are there other benefits of the Lc6I?
3) Why are people not tapping into the front door speakers for the Front door tweeter? Why are they using the rear door speakers?
4) People are tapping into the front door tweeter to connect to the A pillar speakers. However they only talk about connecting the left and right channel. How are they connecting the centre speaker? (apparently there are 3 speakers in there)
5) People are connecting a relay and a resistor to prevent high current flows from the 12V source. Where is it exactly connected?

So if i buy

1) amp (that support line in level) or amp and Lc6i
2) resistor and relay
3) Sepaker wire
4) 4 gauge kit (i guess for connecitng AMP to the power source)
5) t tap connector or positab

that should do it?

I have never opened door panels etc ever in my life forget splicing. How hard is this?

Thanks Again.
 
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Anyone else tap directly to the audio harness of the main computer and find that the levels were super low on a SR+ (non-premium) system? I am finding that I can't even boost the signal to a solid midrange level off those due to their level being so low, even cranked up on the system volume. I am trying to feed them directly into speaker level inputs of an audio control D-6.1200 with a DSP built in for adjusting and summing.
I read somewhere that with a premium installation there is a sub and an amp in the trunk, maybe those line levels go to that amp?
 
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Aug 21, 2019
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Indiana
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Hello,
Newbie here. Never worked on a car audio system before. Have a newly acquired SR+ and hate the audio system. Since i am not very handy, I am just looking to power the rear deck speakers, front tweeters and a pillar speakers. Don't want to do the sub right now. So i guess i need

1) A 4 channel amp (maybe 5 channel if i want to do a sub in the future).
2) The LC6i is primarily used to control the signal level going into the amp to maintain speaker sound levels appropriately. So, if i find an amp where i can control this GTO and LC (there was a link to a soundstream amp that did this but it didnt work well in extreme temperatures) then can i skip the Lc6i? Are there other benefits of the Lc6I?
3) Why are people not tapping into the front door speakers for the Front door tweeter? Why are they using the rear door speakers?
4) People are tapping into the front door tweeter to connect to the A pillar speakers. However they only talk about connecting the left and right channel. How are they connecting the centre speaker? (apparently there are 3 speakers in there)
5) People are connecting a relay and a resistor to prevent high current flows from the 12V source. Where is it exactly connected?

So if i buy

1) amp (that support line in level) or amp and Lc6i
2) resistor and relay
3) Sepaker wire
4) 4 gauge kit (i guess for connecitng AMP to the power source)
5) t tap connector or positab

that should do it?

I have never opened door panels etc ever in my life forget splicing. How hard is this?

Thanks Again.

Having just completed this upgrade I'll try to provide some insight and tips. First off, I'd say it is medium difficulty, probably best to find a friend that has done an install before. It is unique in the way power is supplied to amp from penthouse 12V converter.

That said, on to your questions.

1) A 4 channel amp (maybe 5 channel if i want to do a sub in the future). YES, need this.

2) The LC6i is primarily used to control the signal level going into the amp to maintain speaker sound levels appropriately. So, if i find an amp where i can control this GTO and LC (there was a link to a soundstream amp that did this but it didnt work well in extreme temperatures) then can i skip the Lc6i? Are there other benefits of the Lc6I? I went line level into my amp because it has that capability. Many say the sound is better using a LOC (line output converter) like the LC6i. Many are available, and for less than the LC6i on Amazon. To add my sun I will need one as my amp does not use the line level inputs for the sub channel.

3) Why are people not tapping into the front door speakers for the Front door tweeter? Why are they using the rear door speakers? Front door speakers are woofers, may have a low pass crossover so tweeter signal would be lost. I tapped the front dash mids (quite difficult) to get a front RH/LH signal.

4) People are tapping into the front door tweeter to connect to the A pillar speakers. However they only talk about connecting the left and right channel. How are they connecting the centre speaker? (apparently there are 3 speakers in there) The front dash has 4 speakers, RH, LH, CTR, and CTR tweeter. In SR+ LH, CTR, and RH are active. I did not bother with connecting center tweeter. I tapped the LH and RH dash, ran signal back to amp, and from amp wired in the RH and LH mirror tweeters and a-pillar tweeters (each side in parallel)

5) People are connecting a relay and a resistor to prevent high current flows from the 12V source. Where is it exactly connected? I installed relay and resistor next to the amp since power and remote signal line converged there. There are links to wiring diagram and photos of installs earlier in the thread (sorry I just don't have pics handy at the moment or I would put them here)

So if i buy

1) amp (that support line in level) or amp and Lc6i Yes, or another LOC
2) resistor and relay Yes, be sure your relay is sized to match amp draw of amplifier
3) Sepaker wire Yes, 100 ft is usually enough. Might need more later if you need to tap front door woofer signal for subwoofer.
4) 4 gauge kit (i guess for connecitng AMP to the power source) 4gauge may be overkill, crutchfield has a nice chart that shows power wire recommendations based on amplifier power draw and length of wire run. be sure it includes proper in-line fusing, or get a separate circuit breaker based on amp draw of amplifier.
5) t tap connector or positab Get positaps, t taps are difficult as the insulation on the Tesla wires is like armor. I had to shave off with an xacto knife to get t tap to make connection. Also be sure to get a variety of terminals and connectors for power leads, grounds, splices, etc. and zip ties and electrical tape to cover and tidy things up.

You'll be running at least 3 sets of wires plus a signal wire on the LH side, and at least 3 sets of wires on the RH side (4 if you add subwoofer), so it starts to get a little crowded under the trim pieces with the existing wiring. Take your time, it's not going to be done in an afternoon, but it is worth the effort. Hope this helps.
 
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Jun 10, 2019
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Brighton, MI
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I am using an Audio Control amp with GTO and, though I don't have it all set-up except the dash speakers, I haven't had any issues yet. I haven't set up any relay at the moment to get around the errors others talk about since I am hoping the GTO solves that.
GTO did not work... got the dreaded can not maintain power error. Battery now says it needs to be replaced, though it doesn’t... will be going the relay method next. To temporarily solve will not charge / can not maintain 12v while solving the issue with a relay, I just disconnected power from the amps.
 
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GTO did not work... got the dreaded can not maintain power error. Battery now says it needs to be replaced, though it doesn’t... will be going the relay method next. To temporarily solve will not charge / can not maintain 12v while solving the issue with a relay, I just disconnected power from the amps.
If you get the dreaded can not maintain 12v power error where the car will not start or charge disconnect your amp from the penthouse 12v to get it back running (you'll need a relay from what I can tell, about to install mine and will post back).

If you see a 12v battery needs to be replaced error though you are pretty sure it does not... Follow these instructions
Hard Reset Model 3 link

Just fixed both issues with exactly those steps.
 
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Seattle
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If you get the dreaded can not maintain 12v power error where the car will not start or charge disconnect your amp from the penthouse 12v to get it back running (you'll need a relay from what I can tell, about to install mine and will post back).

If you see a 12v battery needs to be replaced error though you are pretty sure it does not... Follow these instructions
Hard Reset Model 3 link

Just fixed both issues with exactly those steps.
So are you using 12v battery for powering the amp and not Penthouse 12v? Also are you saying that with GTO on from an Audio Control amp it still draws power when there is no audio signal ?
 
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Sep 12, 2019
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Question regarding the Lc7

Do we connect the output from the rear door speakers (L and R) to the main input of the LC and the front door speakers (L and R) to the Channel 2 of the LC or the other way round (Front goes to Main and Rear goes to Channel 2)

Also,
Do you connect the main output from the LC to rear input(LR) of the of the amp and Channel 2 to the front (LR) or the other way round (Main to front and Channel 2 to rear)?

I am assuming that the Channel 3 output goes into the sub input of the amp but nothing is connected to the input of channel 3.

If i buy a 4 channel amp (for size), can i combine the wire from the penthouse and the output from the loc into a single wire and connect it directly into the sub?