How-To Guide: Model 3 SR+ aftermarket to enable speakers and subwoofer upgrade install

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A question to anyone still contributing to this thread. I installed pretty much everything as suggested on the OP. thank you guys very much btw for paving the way. I wanted to let you guys know I could not use the same red wire for the 12v accessory. It would not power either the alpine or a power amp I bought. So I found another power source from an adjacent connector that did power the remote. I am now currently waiting to see if the car falls asleep and kills power via remote. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Did you confirm that the wire was providing 12V power only when the car is powered on? I ran the connecting wire outside the car, shut it off, and checked with a multimeter before continuing.
 
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Did you confirm that the wire was providing 12V power only when the car is powered on? I ran the connecting wire outside the car, shut it off, and checked with a multimeter before continuing.
so the 12v source I used stays powered on until the car falls asleep. Then it powers down. I am not positive if that is good enough or if I should begin to seek another remote source.
 

PLUR

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so the 12v source I used stays powered on until the car falls asleep. Then it powers down. I am not positive if that is good enough or if I should begin to seek another remote source.
If you see Engineerix video from 1st page, the harness use to connect to 12v remote, the red wire (thicker wire out of the rest) will run up and connect to here pin connect to a slot.

There's a possibility that your car has an older build date which means it doesn't have a red wire connect to that pin hole. In this case, you will have to wire it yourself into the slot from the video.

Also, I only use this 12v red wire to power the Lc7i, not using as power source for alpine or sub
amp.. This 12vAccessory powers LC7i, remote out of LC7i go to remote in of alpine and remote in of sub amp. You don't have to follow exactly but it's a way that works for me. Hope it helps!
 
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If you see Engineerix video from 1st page, the harness use to connect to 12v remote, the red wire (thicker wire out of the rest) will run up and connect to here pin connect to a slot.

There's a possibility that your car has an older build date which means it doesn't have a red wire connect to that pin hole. In this case, you will have to wire it yourself into the slot from the video.

Also, I only use this 12v red wire to power the Lc7i, not using as power source for alpine or sub
amp.. This 12vAccessory powers LC7i, remote out of LC7i go to remote in of alpine and remote in of sub amp. You don't have to follow exactly but it's a way that works for me. Hope it helps!
Thanks for the input! So for mine. I have the red wire in place of the empty slot. My primary issue is that it does not send remote turn on signal to the alpine amp or the sub remote. I have them both connected to this remote. So I found another source of power for remote that DOES power down when the car goes to sleep but I am unsure if that is adequate enough to keep everything safe from battery draw.
 

PLUR

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Thanks for the input! So for mine. I have the red wire in place of the empty slot. My primary issue is that it does not send remote turn on signal to the alpine amp or the sub remote. I have them both connected to this remote. So I found another source of power for remote that DOES power down when the car goes to sleep but I am unsure if that is adequate enough to keep everything safe from battery draw.
Your situation is strange indeed. You might have to further diagnose the issue like check using the multimeter to see if this red wire is actually working and that the pin is not loose in the slot making; no connection..
With my setup, when I step outside of car with doors closed and mirrors auto-folded, all my devices(LC7i and two amps) are power off very fast (or within minute). Not sure if this makes any different, but I don't have sentry mode turn on (might test it out later when I have time).
 
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Your situation is strange indeed. You might have to further diagnose the issue like check using the multimeter to see if this red wire is actually working and that the pin is not loose in the slot making; no connection..
With my setup, when I step outside of car with doors closed and mirrors auto-folded, all my devices(LC7i and two amps) are power off very fast (or within minute). Not sure if this makes any different, but I don't have sentry mode turn on (might test it out later when I have time).

Interesting. I will double check whether or not my red remote wire is getting any power at all. I appreciate the input. Now I know that my equipment does indeed stay on longer than it should.

Thanks,
 

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Anyone else tap directly to the audio harness of the main computer and find that the levels were super low on a SR+ (non-premium) system? I am finding that I can't even boost the signal to a solid midrange level off those due to their level being so low, even cranked up on the system volume. I am trying to feed them directly into speaker level inputs of an audio control D-6.1200 with a DSP built in for adjusting and summing.
 

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Your situation is strange indeed. You might have to further diagnose the issue like check using the multimeter to see if this red wire is actually working and that the pin is not loose in the slot making; no connection..
With my setup, when I step outside of car with doors closed and mirrors auto-folded, all my devices(LC7i and two amps) are power off very fast (or within minute). Not sure if this makes any different, but I don't have sentry mode turn on (might test it out later when I have time).
My local audio shop suggested an approach that might help here. There is an amplifier with GTO builtin that avoids the need for remote in. Basically the amp will only turn on when there is sound signal . However the install is not done my car yet so can’t confirm the approach.
 

smul

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My local audio shop suggested an approach that might help here. There is an amplifier with GTO builtin that avoids the need for remote in. Basically the amp will only turn on when there is sound signal . However the install is not done my car yet so can’t confirm the approach.
I am using an Audio Control amp with GTO and, though I don't have it all set-up except the dash speakers, I haven't had any issues yet. I haven't set up any relay at the moment to get around the errors others talk about since I am hoping the GTO solves that.
 
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@SebasKTM I really like way the Alpine PWE-S8 fits in the SR+ rear panel space.

1. Would you provide a little more detail on how you did the custom brackets?

2. Tesla has been making changes to the rear deck. Early Model 3's had a hole to the trunk between the rear deck speakers. The hole probably let a lot of bass from the premium sub enter the cab, but now the hole is either blocked by a plastic panel (my June 19 model) or it is gone completely.

Does you model have the hole or is it covered?

If it is covered I am curious how well the bass sounds in the cabin. If the hole is open then there is no question that the bass is getting through clearly.

3. You posted the flying connector part number for the connector that is on the 4" speakers. Does this part number include the crimp pins or do you have to order them separately? The Digikey site mentions that "The contacts are not included" under the notes and I can't tell from the documentation or the manufacturer catalog if the pins are included.

Thanks!
1. Well, a lot of measuring, cardboarding, cutting, bending, and some welding. The brackets were really "shaped/formed" in place. It took me about a day (I really wanted a stealth installation)
2. I do not have a hole in the trunk (rear deck), I too was surprised by it. My tesla is around June as well. For sure, it alters the sounds, but to me, bass feels tight and controlled. I am not looking to rattle off windows; it just added that missing spectrum from the door woofers.
3. Correct, pins are sold separately, because it depends on the size of your wires. I ended up using these 18-20 awg sockets. A little tight for the connector, but it worked. Looking at it again, it looks like the 0.64 Connector System might be a better fit, but I have yet to dig in great details.

Good luck!
Seb
 

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Update: I was able to verify with a voltmeter that my red 12v remote source does indeed have and power and must be some error in my remote wire and was able to troubleshoot. The system powers down know as soon as the mirrors fold in and the screen goes out. Thanks all for the help and encouragement!
 

LakeWorthB

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Anyone else tap directly to the audio harness of the main computer and find that the levels were super low on a SR+ (non-premium) system? I am finding that I can't even boost the signal to a solid midrange level off those due to their level being so low, even cranked up on the system volume. I am trying to feed them directly into speaker level inputs of an audio control D-6.1200 with a DSP built in for adjusting and summing.
Maybe they are line level outputs?
 

smul

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1. Well, a lot of measuring, cardboarding, cutting, bending, and some welding. The brackets were really "shaped/formed" in place. It took me about a day (I really wanted a stealth installation)
2. I do not have a hole in the trunk (rear deck), I too was surprised by it. My tesla is around June as well. For sure, it alters the sounds, but to me, bass feels tight and controlled. I am not looking to rattle off windows; it just added that missing spectrum from the door woofers.
3. Correct, pins are sold separately, because it depends on the size of your wires. I ended up using these 18-20 awg sockets. A little tight for the connector, but it worked. Looking at it again, it looks like the 0.64 Connector System might be a better fit, but I have yet to dig in great details.

Good luck!
Seb
NICE BRACKET MAN! beats my expanded PVC one which worked well for my amps.
 

Attilas

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Anyone else tap directly to the audio harness of the main computer and find that the levels were super low on a SR+ (non-premium) system? I am finding that I can't even boost the signal to a solid midrange level off those due to their level being so low, even cranked up on the system volume. I am trying to feed them directly into speaker level inputs of an audio control D-6.1200 with a DSP built in for adjusting and summing.
Please us know how well it went integrating the Audio Control D-6.1200 in the SR+.

That is the path I was going. First to power up rear inactive speaker, mirror inactive tweeter and a 8 inch subwoofer in the trunk. Then felt safe to eventually upgrade the front speakers/dash/tweeter to something like the Focal 165 AS3 3-way component if I needed more mid.
 

ftenab

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If you see Engineerix video from 1st page, the harness use to connect to 12v remote, the red wire (thicker wire out of the rest) will run up and connect to here pin connect to a slot.

There's a possibility that your car has an older build date which means it doesn't have a red wire connect to that pin hole. In this case, you will have to wire it yourself into the slot from the video.

Also, I only use this 12v red wire to power the Lc7i, not using as power source for alpine or sub
amp.. This 12vAccessory powers LC7i, remote out of LC7i go to remote in of alpine and remote in of sub amp. You don't have to follow exactly but it's a way that works for me. Hope it helps!
Dear sir, one question. for the ones we are installing automatic trunk, the device is consuming around max 15A and would be nice to have a constant power source. Is it possible connect directly to the penthouse 12V source as is low consumption and fall sleep mode when not used??. Is it possible connect to the +source were subwoofer premium car is connected?? Thanks for your help.
 

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@SebasKTM thanks for the bracket information. Now I might actually have a reason to get a welder after telling the electrician I needed that 240V outlet installed to do some light welding projects :)

Thanks again for the connector information. I bought a set to make some cables to upgrade the 4" midrange speakers.
I bought the pins, housing and retainer clip (covers the latch for the pins).
I went with the male pin connectors to match what is on the stock speakers (I hope the harness just plugs in to this). Upgrading the front 3 4" midranges this weekend.
 
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could be, but then there would have to be some hidden amps for the speakers on the SR+ right?
@smul Thank you so much for your findings.
Do you already know, if the outputs are line level?

Getting the output directly from the connector would be perfect. If they would be RCA, that would be a way cleaner install.


@All: I'm goning to use this amp https://www.pioneer-car.eu/uk/products/gm-d1004/specifications as it has great availability in Europe, small form factor and is quite flexible. I will feed the rear shelf and the mirror tweeters with it.
It has an max input of 15A, I plan to connect it directly to the 12V+ in from Ingineerix video for main power and would not use the Penthouse 12V+. If I don't go crazy with the volume, I believe this should work.

Any thoughts?
 
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Thanks for all the information and posts here! The addition of the rear deck speakers does make a substantial improvement, but the addition of the mirror and a-pillar tweeters should not be discounted as they fill in some of the highs that the mids in dash and rear deck are missing. Instead of the 4 channel amp, I chose a 5 channel with the intent of building a 8" sub box to fit the location in the rear quarter where the premium sub sits.

The instructions on how to get power from the penthouse and using relay and resistor along with the 12v signal wire were invaluable.

One item I found useful instead of fusing the power from the penthouse was to use a circuit breaker instead, and mounted under seat near the power supply. If for some reason it trips, its easily reset by popping off the trim panel. After the sub is added and all wiring in a loom and secured , I plan to build a vented enclosure to protect the amp and other components from possible luggage damage (as well as giving the trunk a fully finished look)