Group Buy for Power Trunk/Frunk Liftgate!!!

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Rick Steinwand

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@Rick Steinwand,

Couple questions. I believe you have V2 of the kit. Correct? Also is it HansShow or TeslaOffer? If TO then maybe an SW update broke it as it accesses the CANBus.
Nevertheless this is my worst fear. So far so good. Let us know what you determine.
Also did you install the AutoFrunk kit and does IT open?

Ski
Thanks for the reply.

I have HansShow so no CANBus. If V2 was the promised quieter lifts and improved wiring, which I know of no-one getting, then I definitely do not have that. Frunk still works the same, but reboot did NOT fix the trunk. Unfortunately, with Christmas for my side of the family today, road trip to the big city tomorrow and work on Monday, no time to check into it more. But one thing I need to check is the fuse under the back seat where I tied into 12v.
 

Skione65

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Rick,

That was my first suggestion. Check that fuse inline to the backseat 12V tie in. I have both the HansShow Frunk and Trunk as well. Same as you. Frunk to 12v up front. Trunk to Penthouse for 12V tap like you. Be careful with those two rear under seat Clips. Either they’re crap or mine were already broken because they both broke on me. Had to have mobile replace both. Left side first...he only had one....and a month later (after ordering) the right side Yesterday.

Ski
 

williamn

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I have the same issue. I installed everything today. The trunk works fine with app/screen/new button but the original trunk button is now inoperative. How did you get it to work? I don’t have the black connectors (I have V3 of the set up). Also, my foot sensor is not doing anything. I plugged everything in correctly. I tried their contact info, we’ll see if anything comes back...
Did you end up using the OEM rubber buckels or did you get new ones somewhere?
Pretty much what my post/images say. The connects they include have pins, and for me, one of them wasn't attached. I don't know what differences v3 have, but check the wire path and make sure they're solid/pushed in.
I use the original rubber buckels - they don't give them out. When asked, they said it's an "upgraded product", and to use the original buckels.
 

Rick Steinwand

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Rick,

That was my first suggestion. Check that fuse inline to the backseat 12V tie in. I have both the HansShow Frunk and Trunk as well. Same as you. Frunk to 12v up front. Trunk to Penthouse for 12V tap like you. Be careful with those two rear under seat Clips. Either they’re crap or mine were already broken because they both broke on me. Had to have mobile replace both. Left side first...he only had one....and a month later (after ordering) the right side Yesterday.

Ski
Surprise, installed 50.1 and my trunk works again. I guess 40.2.1 broke it. I don't use either one enough to notice that it broke with the last install. FWIW, I never did check the fuse, but thought this afternoon might be a good time.
 

todd2fst4u

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Surprise, installed 50.1 and my trunk works again. I guess 40.2.1 broke it. I don't use either one enough to notice that it broke with the last install. FWIW, I never did check the fuse, but thought this afternoon might be a good time.
More likely a loose connection somewhere.
 

Rick Steinwand

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I drove to work this morning, clearly wasn't the first, as someone "stole" my parking spot, so I parked waay on the end with no cars near me. About 20 minutes later I was comparing our website with a co-worker on our phones when I heard an alarm go off. Decided it wasn't in the building and went to the window to see what idiot's car alarm was going off and was shocked to see my frunk was open and I was that idiot. :rolleyes:

Opened my phone (set to vibrate) and noticed an extra Tesla icon in the status bar with a message "Car alarm has been triggered." Closed my frunk via the app and the alarm quit.

Anyone else have this happen? There was no car near me so no idea what happened.

1579904317262-png.31918
 

Skione65

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Rick,
Gremlins....not as bad as my AutoFrunk unlatching by itself at 70 mph on the interstate in a blinding rainstorm. Sure as heck glad it didn’t open all the way or I’m sure the wind would have ripped it right off and I’d have seen it cartwheeling down the interstate in my rear view. The safety catch works! Ask me how I know. I had to pull over onto the shoulder with tractor trailers and a military convoy ripping by me in a thunderstorm at 70+. Had to open the trunk via the screen and close via the app (in the rainstorm) to get it to relatch and get the warning on screen to go away. Hansshow had no idea what caused it.
Knock on wood ok ever since. Quite nerve wracking though as you can imagine.

Ski
 

Omega

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I drove to work this morning, clearly wasn't the first, as someone "stole" my parking spot, so I parked waay on the end with no cars near me. About 20 minutes later I was comparing our website with a co-worker on our phones when I heard an alarm go off. Decided it wasn't in the building and went to the window to see what idiot's car alarm was going off and was shocked to see my frunk was open and I was that idiot. :rolleyes:

Opened my phone (set to vibrate) and noticed an extra Tesla icon in the status bar with a message "Car alarm has been triggered." Closed my frunk via the app and the alarm quit.

Anyone else have this happen? There was no car near me so no idea what happened.

View attachment 31918
Hah, I got in that situation a few times. The reason it happened was due to the strong slamming force of the trunk that trigger Sentry alarm.

If you want to replicate this scenario, just turn off bluetooth, open the trunk, lock the car, turn on Sentry mode. Then, when everything is settled down, just close the trunk by app, and tadaaa... Wewww wewww wewww!!!

If you keep the bluetooth on and stay close to the car, it's fine. Otherwise, you may want to turn off Sentry before closing the trunk remotely.
 

Rick Steinwand

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Hah, I got in that situation a few times. The reason it happened was due to the strong slamming force of the trunk that trigger Sentry alarm.

If you want to replicate this scenario, just turn off bluetooth, open the trunk, lock the car, turn on Sentry mode. Then, when everything is settled down, just close the trunk by app, and tadaaa... Wewww wewww wewww!!!

If you keep the bluetooth on and stay close to the car, it's fine. Otherwise, you may want to turn off Sentry before closing the trunk remotely.
That's a scary scenario, but I haven't touched my frunk in weeks until after the alarm went off and I closed it to silence the alarm. The alarm went off 20 minutes after I exited it with no-one parked nearby. Apparently the frunk opening by itself is what triggered the alarm.
 

TomT

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Just a note about HansShow. My trunk kit arrived minus the control box. After going around and around a number of times I decided to return it. No problem they said, just ship it back, which I did. Some time goes by and I check with my CC company. They say that Hanshow says they did not receive it. I forward the shipping receipt and the proof of delivery to them. The CC company then reversed the charge... It doesn't leave a good taste in my mouth about Hanshow...
 

Rick Steinwand

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Just a note about HansShow. My trunk kit arrived minus the control box. After going around and around a number of times I decided to return it. No problem they said, just ship it back, which I did. Some time goes by and I check with my CC company. They say that Hanshow says they did not receive it. I forward the shipping receipt and the proof of delivery to them. The CC company then reversed the charge... It doesn't leave a good taste in my mouth about Hanshow...
Despite several attempts to adjust it, I still have to manually press down on the hood to get the frunk to latch. My trunk now blows the fuse and I know my soldering and wiring is good so we'll see if it's the control box or what. I too have that same taste.
 

njkode

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So maybe I have this wrong but are there two different versions available (not in this group buy)? One that taps into the CAN bus and one that does not?

If so what seems to be the better options? I do not particularly like that the non-CAN bus method does not show the trunk as open via the screen and/or the app when it is infact open.
 

Skione65

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So maybe I have this wrong but are there two different versions available (not in this group buy)? One that taps into the CAN bus and one that does not?

If so what seems to be the better options? I do not particularly like that the non-CAN bus method does not show the trunk as open via the screen and/or the app when it is infact open.
Are you referring to the Funk or Trunk? I have both installed. HansShow not TeslaOffer. Absolutely LOVE them both. Never used to use the Frunk due to the pain in the #@&* it was to close but now it’s awesome. Same with the trunk...was a hassle to close...prints everywhere...not easy to close....now I can open and close it from the drivers seat when my kids get their backpacks out etc. Game changer. That’s the trade off on the Trunk. I like not having it tapped into the CanBus. The trade off is (1) HansShow/Not tapping CanBus but no open/close indication on screen or (2) TeslaOffer tapping into CanBus and having open/close indication on screen. You have to decide what is important to you or not.
There’s a more detailed post....can’t remember if it’s here or TMC that lists the Pros/Cons of each manufacturers kit and really helps outline the benefits and detractors of each. Then as I mentioned you just have to decide what’s important in each area to you and make a decision based on those aspects. Hope this helps. Keep in mind I believe the TeslaOffer now has a V3 or so that has you ripping apart all the interior panels and door frame pieces and from what I understand is very invasive install. But I haven’t been following since my Install after I made my decision so please research each in detail and get the best information you can to make the best educated decision for you on the appropriate kit for you. YouTube has some great reviews and vids as well. The kits have changed somewhat over time from the original Group Buys so keep that in mind as well.

Ski
 
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Rick Steinwand

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So I assume you all got the email that the controller for our frunk installs are not waterproof and if it fails, it's our own fault.

I'm trying to figure out what type of bag would last a few years. A freezer storage bag is all that comes to mind.
 

Skione65

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So I assume you all got the email that the controller for our frunk installs are not waterproof and if it fails, it's our own fault.


I'm trying to figure out what type of bag would last a few years. A freezer storage bag is all that comes to mind.
@Rick Steinwand,

I did not....did HansShow send it to you? I’m not kidding it failed AGAIN on me driving in a grey out rainstorm on the interstate from the SC today.......it shorts the controller box I believe and then actually POPS the frunk while your driving and you get the onscreen warning.....luckily the safety latch catches......
And....why is it our OWN fault? Is that what HansShow says?

Ski
 
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garsh

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LOL, "incorrect installation"?

Did the original installation instructions specifically mention that the device had to be placed into a waterproof bag? Or did they state to mount the controller inside the cabin, and people are mounting it outside the cabin?
 

Skione65

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Well....look.....I don’t want to go down the rabbit hole on this. However I was REALLY put off by the way that first paragraph was worded. It was mounted the way all the install videos showed including one by the certified installer for either HansShow or TeslaOffer (I wonder if they are having similar issues).
No mention of any of this previous and although I will perform my own retrofit at some point (researching options currently) in an attempt to alleviate the “issue” or at least stave it off at the pass or limit it some it does seem to me that they are trying to “wash their hands of the issue” by blaming it on faulty install to preclude from having to honor any warranty coverage if part failure/malfunction does occur due to this.
NOT a good look.

Ski
 
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Skione65

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Agreed.

And since it's pretty obvious that the controller wasn't designed to be placed into a bag, I foresee controllers dying due to overheating after being placed into bags. :(
I LITERALLY just thought of this same issue. I thought well I’ll just insert it into a silicone waterproof of some sort to keep it dry and then thought wait....what about heat in the dead of summer with heat indices of triple digits. I’m not sure how that will affect longevity of the controller box over time if any at all. I mean it’s in hot ambient as it is....it just won’t have the ability to breathe as well. The unit generates virtually no heat the few seconds you use it to to operate the Frunk open or close, just the amount generated by virtue of having it “powered” by the 12V.

At a loss here as to what to do. There’s a myriad of ‘quick fixes’ but I’m looking at some sort of longevity over time And what that ‘balance’ would be.

Ski
 
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