Does a new Model 3 usually have to "dial in" its efficiency?

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coredumperror

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#1
I've owned my Model 3 for just over a day, now, and have put a little over a 150 miles on it (the delivery center is not terribly close to my home, and I've been back once already for a Tesla Workshop). I drive it like I drove my Prius: slow acceleration for maximum efficiency, and using regen for 95% of my braking. I never let the black line on the display get more than half full, and usually shoot for less than 1/3. I run the A/C at 75 degrees and medium fan power (about 5 or 6 I think), and it's been around 95 degrees outside for both days I've owned it.

Yet I'm getting over 330 wH/mi!! From the numbers I've seen on other people's 3s (180-220), that's TERRIBLE.
This is also affecting the reported range on the car to an extreme degree. I started the day yesterday at 114 miles of charge, drove my typical 15-mile commute to work, and was at 90 miles remaining when I finally plugged in at the work chargers. That's 60% more charge than it should have used for that commute...

Is the 3 known to need a little while to dial in its efficiency, or something? I asked the guy at the Tesla Owner's Workshop about it today, and he told me I should wait about a month, then bring my car in to the local Service Center if it stays that bad, to let them diagnose it.
 

Gavyne

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#2
I believe you said you drive in LA traffic, that's going to affect the efficiency quite a bit. Are you letting autopilot drive on the freeway for better efficiency?

I'm in California as well, the heat is a big issue right now. If it's 95 outside, that means your AC is constantly on. That's going to affect efficiency quite a bit. There's no getting around it when outside is so hot.

Another thing that drains your car is having cabin overheat protection turned on. The idle phantom drain is pretty crazy if you have overheat protection enabled. So if you have no need for it, turn it off and it should help you not lose as much power when the car is idle.
 

coredumperror

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#3
I do have cabin overheat protection turned on, but what does that help protect against, specifically? I may need to use it, at least for now, when I park my car across from my office (in direct sunlight the whole day), rather than at the underground parking structure that has the chargers (which is a 12-minute walk from my office, ugh). I'll be getting tint and a sun shield soon, though, so I imagine it won't be that important with those in place? At home my car is in a covered carport, and gets no direct sunlight, so I figure I'm fine, there.

Yes about LA traffic. I was driving from Marina del Rey (delivery center) to Azusa (home) when I got that 330ish wH/mi number. I used Autopilot for most of that trip, and supercharged at the Hawthorne charger. Which, as I discovered only after I'd arrived, is inside the SpaceX compound! I charged barely 100 meters from the first Falcon 9 booster that landed safely, which they have on display there.

My efficiency was even worse when I drove from Azusa to Pasadena for work yesterday morning, though. I drove on surface streets, so plenty of regen opportunities and no high speeds, but it was almost 400 wH/mi for that 15-mile trip.

I've heard that the AC is actually pretty efficient. One guy said it only added about 20 wH/mi to his car, and he runs it much cooler than I do (mid 60s in his vs 75 in mine) and in relatively similar weather (central Texas, he reported this last week). Surely I couldn't be using 100 wH/mi on just AC, right?

Is autopilot actually more efficient? It seems to speed up and slow down more abruptly than what i'd do naturally, at least during the 30 or so minutes that I used it last night. I used to drive a Prius C, so I have long-ingrained battery efficiency driving habits.
 
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Gavyne

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#4
Cabin overheat protection prevents the interior of your car from exceeding 105F for 12 hours after you exit your car. So if it's enabled, your car is virtually always awake, and constantly adjusting temperature. It's done for safety reasons in case you leave your child/pet in the car. I wouldn't use it if you have a carport or park underground. It will save you a lot of idle drain. People have reported losing up to 10 miles just having cabin overheat protection turned on.

That's so cool about the supercharger inside SpaceX, wish I lived that close.

Autopilot should be more efficient on the highway, and you shouldn't be using it on surface streets since it's not designed for that yet. But the high efficiency and ratings are always based on highway speed usually, provided you are not in stop & go traffic. The traffic condition plays a big part in efficiency so someone in Texas may be driving on an easy open road with steady speed and reports better efficiency than you do in LA.

If you have a charger at home and can charge at work, I wouldn't worry too much about efficiency since you are set to start the day fully charged. Unless you are taking long trips, have some fun with your Model 3. It's hard for me to not accelerate and feel the torque whenever I get a chance to pass slow cars. Your efficiency ratings aren't too bad considering you are driving in 95 degree heat in LA traffic.
 

coredumperror

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#5
I wouldn't be nearly so worried about efficiency, except that I don't have a charger at home, yet. I started the process of getting one installed back in March, but due to permit requirements with the city I live in, the project has ballooned a lot. I just wanted to install a NEMA 14-50 socket in my carport, but because the city is requiring me to upgrade my condo's overall amperage from 70 amps to 100, I now have to replace a significant chunk of my electrical system. And on top of that, I have to get approval for it from my HOA, which can be a rather slow process. I'm crossing my fingers that I'll finally have the damn thing done by the middle of next month.

Until then, my options for charging are Superchargers (the closest one is not exactly convenient) and charging at work. It's free at work, but the system is part of a science experiment (I work at a university), so it's not 100% reliable, and it's SLOW. I was getting only 7 mi/hr while I was charging yesterday, and the darn thing cut me off at 4pm for no apparent reason. Plus it's a 10+ minute walk from my office, in this heat...

I don't think I've experienced vampire drain from the overheat protection, yet, but I'll be sure to track that. I did lose 2 miles of range overnight, though, and it wasn't hot at all since I checked the range last time. Is that normal?
 

slacker775

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#6
You probably should also consider if you NEED a 14-50. I was in a similar boat where 14-50 was going to require panel/service upgrade, so I stepped down to a 14-30 and bingo, no problem. 22mph charge vs the 30mph, but at significantly less cost and hassle, thus a major win. And if you really couldn't even do 30, a 240V 20A still isn't terrible at something like 16mph I think.
 

coredumperror

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#7
Hmm, I hadn't realized that such an option existed. I had assumed that there was either 110V or 240V, and 240V automatically implied 40A.

Does a 240V 20A socket still count as a "Level 2" charger? That seems to be the thing that my city cares about as far as the amperage requirements go.
 

John

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#8
On a short drive, you'll see pretty high energy usage numbers. Much of it can be battery conditioning, as the car gets the battery to the right operating temp. Take a short drive, stop, walk away, then come back and start a longer highway trip at 65 mph. You may see 350 Wh/mi for the first trip, and 220 Wh/mi on the second.
 

jsmay311

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#9
Another thing that drains your car is having cabin overheat protection turned on. The idle phantom drain is pretty crazy if you have overheat protection enabled. So if you have no need for it, turn it off and it should help you not lose as much power when the car is idle.
True, but that won't affect the Wh/mile numbers displayed on the screen. Others have reported that the Wh/mi figures only factor in energy used will the car on and moving.
 

Gavyne

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#10
True, but that won't affect the Wh/mile numbers displayed on the screen. Others have reported that the Wh/mi figures only factor in energy used will the car on and moving.
Oh I know, he was talking about having to plugin at work and since he's energy drained, I was trying to help him save more miles :)
 

PNWmisty

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#11
What tire pressure do you run? How do you measure your tire pressure?

Other than that, wheel bearings and reduction gears and output shaft seals will have reduced friction over time, resulting in lower energy consumption. Also, the numbers might not be accurate until the car has "learned" the battery pack. So, yeah, give it some time like the Service Center suggested.
 
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#12
Is there no outlet in your carport at all? Even a plain old outlet should be good for 5 miles/hour, which is certainly better than nothing.
 

PNWmisty

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#13
Is there no outlet in your carport at all? Even a plain old outlet should be good for 5 miles/hour, which is certainly better than nothing.
Depending upon the voltage drop when the circuit is loaded, and how much the Model 3 draws for ancillary functions, it could be as low as 3 mph. I've noticed I generally get fewer MPH than the app/screen report. And it's always changing (mostly between 4 and 5 mph). But, yes, being plugged into a 15A 120V circuit is better than nothing! And it does eventually reach the charge limit. But I haven't tried it in sub-zero temperatures yet. We only have a carport because my garage is reserved for motorcycles!
 

Dr. J

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#14
What tire pressure do you run? How do you measure your tire pressure?

Other than that, wheel bearings and reduction gears and output shaft seals will have reduced friction over time, resulting in lower energy consumption. Also, the numbers might not be accurate until the car has "learned" the battery pack. So, yeah, give it some time like the Service Center suggested.
@coredumperror: ^This (tire pressure). And as your tires wear in a bit, you should get better energy usage.
 

coredumperror

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#15
Is there no outlet in your carport at all? Even a plain old outlet should be good for 5 miles/hour, which is certainly better than nothing.
Sadly, yes. My carport is shared with the other 4 residents of my building, and there isn't a single outlet to be found anywhere in it. I just checked if it'd be possible to plug into the laundry room that's between ports 2 and 3, but the car's charger cable is too short to reach, since my spot is all the way off to the left from the laundry room, making my charge port the maximum distance it could possibly be from the room.

As for tire pressure, i haven't changed what they set them to at the factory. Which, according to the tire pressure widget on the car's display, is 44 psi for all 4 tires. And that's without the tires being warmed up from driving. I just checked that right now, which required me to drive around the block to get the widget to display. The driver's door jam info sticker actually says to use 45 psi, oddly enough.

Should I raise that? I think I heard that 47 is better for efficiency.
 

Dr. J

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#16
Sadly, yes. My carport is shared with the other 4 residents of my building, and there isn't a single outlet to be found anywhere in it. I just checked if it'd be possible to plug into the laundry room that's between ports 2 and 3, but the car's charger cable is too short to reach, since my spot is all the way off to the left from the laundry room, making my charge port the maximum distance it could possibly be from the room.

As for tire pressure, i haven't changed what they set them to at the factory. Which, according to the tire pressure widget on the car's display, is 44 psi for all 4 tires. And that's without the tires being warmed up from driving. I just checked that right now, which required me to drive around the block to get the widget to display. The driver's door jam info sticker actually says to use 45 psi, oddly enough.

Should I raise that? I think I heard that 47 is better for efficiency.
Worth checking: is your display in kilometers instead of miles?
 

coredumperror

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#17
Nope, it's set to miles. That's one of the firs things I checked when I picked up the car. I was reminded to do so since I spent a week in Canada earlier this month. Their speed limits felt so weird, lol.
 

Dr. J

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#18
In that case, I would wait longer than a day to make any determination, and I would also drive it for fun, if not like you stole it. I suspect your Prius hypermiling techniques are pretty much wasted on a car with the efficiency of the Model 3. (I say that as an owner of a 2006 Prius.) You might as well enjoy the ride. ;)
 

jsmay311

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#19
Does a 240V 20A socket still count as a "Level 2" charger?
Yes. Basically any 240V EVSE up to 20kW is Level 2. https://insideevs.com/charging-levels-explained-bower/

Tesla even has a 240V 15A adapter available: https://shop.tesla.com/us/en/product/vehicle-accessories/model-s_x_3-gen-2-nema-adapters.html

Worth checking: is your display in kilometers instead of miles?
Nope, it's set to miles.
Well that's good. 330 Wh/mi is bad enough. 330 Wh/km would be horrendous! :D