Dashcam Install Warnings

MelindaV

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#41
Fair enough.

I'd rather not have to deal with ad hoc, after market devices when the car comes with multiple cameras and the computing horsepower to deal with it.
it doesn't come with the cameras to deal with it though. the AP cameras do not record the same type of image an aftermarket camera can. They are designed to be great at the specific task they are given, and that is not at being a dashcam. If Tesla immediately turned on the ability for owners to pull data from the AP cameras, there would be a mass explosion of bitching about the quality. There would be headlines everywhere like "Tesla releases long awaited dashcam capabilities, and it is terrible"
 

mtdoak

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#42
For those who find the cellink a little ridiculously priced ($330) for a 6000mAh battery like I did, I searched online and found a way to build my own makeshift external battery for a dash cam.

I used these instructions here:
http://blog.nagimov.com/uninterruptible-5v-usb-power-supply/
Bought:
2channel relay ($7) Jumper wires ($7)
Items I already had:
USB extension cable ($5) microUSB cables (very cheap)
power bank (price varies depending on the capacity. I used a 6600mAh I got for $10 awhile back)

The input and output to the 2 channel relay is 5V which would work with most dashcam that accepts a microUSB. I have a Thinkware with a 12V input so I had to get these voltage booster ($9) and set them to 12.4V:
along with Thinkware hardwiring kit ($23): If you have a blackvue, it does not need a 3-wire kit for parking mode. Instead get a 12V socket like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015H6945S/r
and attach it to the voltage booster.

To supply power, I got one of these 12V adapter chargers ($15):
https://www.amazon.com/RAVPower-Charge-4-Port-Charger-Galaxy/dp/B01LCFEQM4/
You need a minimum of 2 usb ports if you have a 3-wire parking mode setup but I opted to get 2 extras in case I wanted to charge additional devices. Only 1 port is needed for blackvue since parking mode activation relies on the accelerometer.

To connect the Thinkware or any camera that requires a 3-wire setup for parking mode, I connected the switch wire (red) to the + output of a voltage booster. I need ran a USB-microUSB cable from the 12V charger to the voltage booster so power is supplied from the charger at 5V then get boosted to 12.4V and outputs to the red wire running to the Thinkware.
The constant battery wire (yellow) is connected to a voltage booster which gets fed from the 2channel relay.

When the car is on, the dash cam runs off of the car power while the power bank gets recharged. When the car is off, the power bank gets used up and parking mode is automatically activated. No direct connection to the car's 12V battery is needed.
Altogether I spent about $60 as opposed to over $300.

As a caveat, I understand that the lithium battery in the power bank isn't LiFePO4 which is more ideal for extreme temperatures but the power bank I use has been reliable, I keep it in the center console compartment and I don't park my car in the sun. The benefit is if the power bank does go bad, I can easily swap it out or get a larger capacity.
My biggest concern here is the usb powerbank. While it’s great you can easily remove it....I’d be worried I’d forget it.

I went out and bought the blackvue power magic pro. I agree that the batteries are over priced...but in the end, I think potentially put your 50k+ car at risk (at minimum an overheated li-on battery leak will do damage to the interior, at worst you are looking at a potential fire) to save $150.
 

Bookbag

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#44
I will put a video & compile some updated info together. But this is the new Blackvue Ultra Battery...fits right under the center console. It is powered from the car's 12V outlet and I also added a on/off switch so I can turn off the dashcam when the car is in the garage.
View attachment 7429
Nice spot, keep us posted on that video!
 

Jason Bourne

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#50
To all the people who have hooked up a dashcam directly to the 12V battery and then the car has thrown the error/alert:

Once the error/alert occurs, if you disconnect the power connection at that point, does the error/alert go away or does it remain until you take it to Tesla Service and they have to clear it with a code?
 

K-MTG

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#51
To all the people who have hooked up a dashcam directly to the 12V battery and then the car has thrown the error/alert:

Once the error/alert occurs, if you disconnect the power connection at that point, does the error/alert go away or does it remain until you take it to Tesla Service and they have to clear it with a code?
It didn't go away until Tesla replaced the battery. When they would clear the code...it would come back.
 
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#53
Instead of a DashCam, I am installing a VHF/UHF amateur radio. The console power port nicely provides up to 12 Amps, and the Yaesu FTM-400XDR radio has a max draw of 12 amps transmitting at 50 watts for brief periods, so just perfect. Here's the interesting issue, I've discovered with the M3: the M3's power management system disables power to the console power port overnight even with the radio in it's power off state. So I called Yaesu to see of the FTM-400XDR draws any power while off. And indeed it does! A whopping 2mA. So the M3, sensing this miniscule load as an alien, kicks it off by disabling the power port. HA! Solution is to unplug overnight, or to take @K-MTG's suggestion and buy a switched cigarette lighter adapter:
https://amzn.to/2JmUXWf Question to you M3 battery management experts: does the M3 only top off the 12V overnight?
 

K-MTG

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#54
Instead of a DashCam, I am installing a VHF/UHF amateur radio. The console power port nicely provides up to 12 Amps, and the Yaesu FTM-400XDR radio has a max draw of 12 amps transmitting at 50 watts for brief periods, so just perfect. Here's the interesting issue, I've discovered with the M3: the M3's power management system disables power to the console power port overnight even with the radio in it's power off state. So I called Yaesu to see of the FTM-400XDR draws any power while off. And indeed it does! A whopping 2mA. So the M3, sensing this miniscule load as an alien, kicks it off by disabling the power port. HA! Solution is to unplug overnight, or to take @K-MTG's suggestion and buy a switched cigarette lighter adapter:
https://amzn.to/2JmUXWf Question to you M3 battery management experts: does the M3 only top off the 12V overnight?
The 12V outlet should only power on when you are in the car (screen is on). Is yours happening otherwise?
 
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#56
The 12V outlet should only power on when you are in the car (screen is on). Is yours happening otherwise?
Yes -- screen on, power on. But that's not my point. The center console power port is actually disabled/shut off/disconnected if the M3 senses a power load of any type while the M3 is powered down/screen off/power off to the center console. In reality these devices are not truly OFF. Just asleep. The Yaesu radio is a micro-processor device requiring this teeny tiny amount of power -- 2mA -- in it's off state. The M3 in it's off state doesn't like that overnight, and shuts the power port down. Remove the load, put the M3 to sleep for a while, and the power port is re-enabled. Ordered your plug and cord with a switch:
https://amzn.to/2JmUXWf
SO: when does the traction battery charge the 12V battery??? Is it only overnight?
 

K-MTG

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#57
Yes -- screen on, power on. But that's not my point. The center console power port is actually disabled/shut off/disconnected if the M3 senses a power load of any type while the M3 is powered down/screen off/power off to the center console. In reality these devices are not truly OFF. Just asleep. The Yaesu radio is a micro-processor device requiring this teeny tiny amount of power -- 2mA -- in it's off state. The M3 in it's off state doesn't like that overnight, and shuts the power port down. Remove the load, put the M3 to sleep for a while, and the power port is re-enabled. Ordered your plug and cord with a switch:
https://amzn.to/2JmUXWf
SO: when does the traction battery charge the 12V battery??? Is it only overnight?
Got it. It tops-off the 12V whenever it goes low.
 
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#58
My biggest concern here is the usb powerbank. While it’s great you can easily remove it....I’d be worried I’d forget it.

I went out and bought the blackvue power magic pro. I agree that the batteries are over priced...but in the end, I think potentially put your 50k+ car at risk (at minimum an overheated li-on battery leak will do damage to the interior, at worst you are looking at a potential fire) to save $150.
Just as an update to your previous concerns about the lithium battery, I ordered a couple of these Tqka batteries which use the same battery chemistry (LiFePO4) as the cellink and blackvue. It's supposed to handle extreme temperatures better but is a bit more bulky than the lithium polymer batteries. The Tqka battery lasts me about 20 hrs in parking mode using a Thinkware F800 Pro dual cameras with more than 10 motion detection incidents occuring. It takes about 6-7 hrs to recharge.

 

garsh

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#59
Just as an update to your previous concerns about the lithium battery, I ordered a couple of these Tqka batteries which use the same battery chemistry (LiFePO4) as the cellink and blackvue. It's supposed to handle extreme temperatures better but is a bit more bulky than the lithium polymer batteries. The Tqka battery lasts me about 20 hrs in parking mode using a Thinkware F800 Pro dual cameras with more than 10 motion detection incidents occuring. It takes about 6-7 hrs to recharge.

Please let us know if this battery is capable of supplying power to a device while the battery itself is being recharged. That's necessary for this sort of application, but it seems that few of the less-expensive ones are capable of doing so.
 

Jason Bourne

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#60
Please let us know if this battery is capable of supplying power to a device while the battery itself is being recharged. That's necessary for this sort of application, but it seems that few of the less-expensive ones are capable of doing so.
@z3sty3 This battery takes 6-7 hours to recharge? Who drives 6-7 hours in a day?