Center console removal

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#41
@1st Model 3 in Huntsville , @yonkiman :
To the experts: Would you say it is easier to remove the entire console to be able to drill the 27 mm (1.125 in) holes from the back of the cubby for the two (or one) additional 12 volt power outlets, or to just dismantle and remove the cubby section separately? When Removing the entire console, do you still have access such that you can remove the USB data and power module prior to drilling the holes? You still need to open the cup holder section to tap into the pos and neg 12 volts, and then snake the wires to the front, unless you just identify the pos 12 volt line that is in the wire bundle going to the existing 12 volt power outlet, and pick up the neg 12 volts from the grounded lug on the side of the console, near the bottom. Did you separately fuse the line going to each of the additional 12 volt outlets?
 

Frank99

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#44
Just to follow up - IMHO, drilling it in place is reasonably easy. However, there are wires in the area that you're going to be drilling into - on one side, I missed them, but on the other side I nicked one of the wires with the drill.
As a result, I would strongly recommend removing the console if you plan on drilling any holes....
 

crackers8199

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#46
Just to follow up - IMHO, drilling it in place is reasonably easy. However, there are wires in the area that you're going to be drilling into - on one side, I missed them, but on the other side I nicked one of the wires with the drill.
As a result, I would strongly recommend removing the console if you plan on drilling any holes....
how would you get the lock nut on the back of the console if you drill it in place? i'm guessing you went with the other solution i've seen on youtube (drill the hole slightly small and then file it so that the outlet fits snug enough you don't need to use the nut), but i would think pulling the console and being able to wire it up with the lock nuts in place is another reason to do it that way (in addition to the also important making sure you don't nick any of the wires)...
 
Last edited:

TjckTock

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#47
Well I did it. Removed the entire center console, rerouted the power for my USB hub, and put the console back in and everything seems to have gone fine.

First a note: after you remove your console (actually it's after you disconnect the wiring harness in the back of the console), you can not drive your car. So bear that in mind! Power seats work fine, probably everything except driving, but I forgot to do a thorough check.

Basically, I just followed 1st Model 3 in Huntsville's retelling of what the Tesla Ranger told him, and it worked exactly as described.
....
Thanks for the write-up - it was a nice guide as I followed it doing a similar mod. Just one thing that had me scratching my head for a few minutes. You forgot to mention you have to remove the two 10mm bolts behind the cover at the rear of the console (six total).
 

1niceride

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so cal
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#49
Well I did it. Removed the entire center console, rerouted the power for my USB hub, and put the console back in and everything seems to have gone fine.

First a note: after you remove your console (actually it's after you disconnect the wiring harness in the back of the console), you can not drive your car. So bear that in mind! Power seats work fine, probably everything except driving, but I forgot to do a thorough check.

Basically, I just followed 1st Model 3 in Huntsville's retelling of what the Tesla Ranger told him, and it worked exactly as described.

First, remove the carpeted side panels. The two 10mm screws you need to remove are on either side of the yellow tape. For the passenger side, I found the carpet easiest to remove by pulling from the top under the dash. Do not start there for the driver side panel!
I removed the console as "yonkiman" described. I would recommend this method for anyone wanting to add USB, or wrap the doors. It takes only 10 minutes to remove it (the first time), it will be quicker the next time. Total of (6) 10mm screws and (2) torx under the phone tray door. Take it out and work on a bench away from the car.

I had wrapped the console months ago (in the car), and can see the benefit of having it out. This time I am adding the 2 USB power ports and a power plug the same as "1st Model 3 in Huntsville" .

Thanks to both of you for the incentive and know how.
 
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#50
Is there a reason no one has tried to tap into the 12V supplying the OEM 2 port USB HUB?
There's a switched 12V in the driver side kick panel, it is the largest standalone light blue wire. It supposedly supplies the power to the center console.
The main harness to the center console is located at the rear passenger side, there is a cover that you pop off which will expose the main harness. Pretty sure you can prob the wires there.
 

crackers8199

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#51
There's a switched 12V in the driver side kick panel, it is the largest standalone light blue wire. It supposedly supplies the power to the center console.
The main harness to the center console is located at the rear passenger side, there is a cover that you pop off which will expose the main harness. Pretty sure you can prob the wires there.
is it still switched even after the most recent update? with the 12v in the console being always on now (or at least on for a few minutes after leaving the car) i'm thinking about expediting my console pulling to get back to the 12v that shuts off as soon as you exit the car...
 

oripaamoni

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#53
@1st Model 3 in Huntsville , @yonkiman :
To the experts: Would you say it is easier to remove the entire console to be able to drill the 27 mm (1.125 in) holes from the back of the cubby for the two (or one) additional 12 volt power outlets, or to just dismantle and remove the cubby section separately? When Removing the entire console, do you still have access such that you can remove the USB data and power module prior to drilling the holes? You still need to open the cup holder section to tap into the pos and neg 12 volts, and then snake the wires to the front, unless you just identify the pos 12 volt line that is in the wire bundle going to the existing 12 volt power outlet, and pick up the neg 12 volts from the grounded lug on the side of the console, near the bottom. Did you separately fuse the line going to each of the additional 12 volt outlets?
Remove the center console, it was way easier than I thought it would be. Nothing like pulling the center console out of an Audi.
 

Herbys

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#55
Just did this on my new M3 (manufactured in January) and the center console removal was very easy. Just wanted to point out that the two screws in the recessed holes under the phone tray weren't there (there isn't a screw hole either, so they must have changed the design). Good thing, as I feared reinstalling these screws was likely going to be one of the hardest parts of the process.
 

Feathermerchant

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#56
I picked up my car 9/28/18. It has carpet from the chrome side rails to the floor. It is not like the pictures. Has anyone dealt with a console like that?
When removing the phone door for a wrap, I managed to drop a white nylon bushing down under (I guess) the console.
 

crackers8199

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#57
how in god's name do you get the panel off at the back of the console to take out the rear bolts?
 

crackers8199

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#59
Do you mean the part of the console with the vents for the rear seats? Remove the panel below the vents using a trim tool.
Can't find the video now but there is one showing the removal.
yeah, I finally got it just by hand. trim tool wasn't necessary...had to put gloves on to keep a grip on it, otherwise I couldn't get enough leverage to get it to pop off.