Can you put Model S 19" wheels on a Model 3?

teslaliving

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#1
Hi folks, I've been wondering if you can use an extra set of wheels from a Model S on a Model 3 or if there's some reason that won't work? I know the 3 takes 18", 19" and 20" wheels but there are other specs to wheels (I know little here) that could perhaps stop that from working/making sense I think. Does anyone know if this is possible?
 

teslaliving

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#4
the model three bolt pattern isn't the same as the S/X
Interesting, are there other differences that would prohibit using them or did they intentionally make it not possible to swap the wheels just by varying that?
 

garsh

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#5
Interesting, are there other differences that would prohibit using them or did they intentionally make it not possible to swap the wheels just by varying that?
Tesla used a much more common bolt pattern for the 3. It should make it much easier to find aftermarket wheels.

I don't know why they chose the less popular pattern for the S.
 

Mad Hungarian

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#10
maybe Tesla's attempt at keeping their wheels only on their cars (and not on a leaf ;))
I can shed some light on this one...

Bolt Pattern, properly known as P.C.D. for Pitch Circle Diameter, is generally chosen based on the size, weight and load requirements of a given vehicle.
As I previously discussed here, the wheel/tire load isn't carried on the horizontal hub surface and center bore hole of the wheel, it's actually carried through the much larger vertical surfaces where the wheel and hub/rotor are sandwiched together. So it's critical to make sure that when you choose the bolt pattern for a given application you make sure you have enough clamping force and that it's spread over a large enough area to deal with the all the forces that vehicle will see. Adding more fasteners increases clamping force, as does increasing the size of the fasteners, and spreading those fasteners further apart adds more strength and stability to the whole assembly. However doing so also adds weight. So there's a careful balancing act that goes on during the vehicle design phase to decide how large the bolt pattern needs to be to handle all the loads vs. how much all the affected components - wheels, hubs, bearings, rotors, etc. - will weigh.
In the end the reason the S and the X have the larger 5x120 pattern is because they have to carry significantly more weight and deal with much higher dynamic loads. The 3 can get away with the smaller 5x114.3 pattern and save that component weight, which of course is especially beneficial with anything on the car that rotates as it also reduces the energy needed to overcome the inertia to get these parts up to speed every time you accelerate.
 

Michael Russo

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#12
So... do I "informative" all three or is just one fine? :p

(Note that this joke will not be funny as soon as some editing to this thread happens)

Edit to add: @Mad Hungarian I think you triple posted my friend.
You’ve got ESP...
Greetings from the cleaning crew... :D
 

Mad Hungarian

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#13
Technically speaking you can make it work, but my understanding is that adapters are really frowned upon.

@Mad Hungarian can you help with the officially word on this?
I'm generally not a huge fan of using adapters, however I can say that if you are going to do so you need to make sure that you're going with something well engineered. The ones we sell are all forged aluminum and use grade 12.9 fasteners and have generally performed well. However there's an important issue that needs to be considered and that's in order for an adapter to work it must completely cover the original studs, and so it needs to also be by definition a spacer. In the case of the 3, as the OE studs are 26mm long you'd need an adapter at least that thick to cover them. This means that whatever wheel you then install is going to stick out by that additional distance. You can correct for that by going to a higher offset wheel, but in this case that would mean using a +66 offset just to arrive back at where you started. Even allowing for a bit more of an aggressive stance you'd still need at least something in the mid 50's range.
So if the goal is to convert it to 5x120 to use Model S wheels, which are all +40 offset, be prepared to get a lift kit and some fender flares :)Hey, you KNOW somebody's eventually gonna do it!
 

Michael Russo

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#15
Thanks Mike, I thought I had lost the whole thing when I accidently closed the page while writing. When I refreshed it came back, but then kept prompting me to "post", which must have resulted in my cloning experiment.
That’s why we’re here... we have to monitor and restrict clones... for ethical reasons... ;)
 

Mad Hungarian

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#17

Sandy

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#18
Note that their estimated weight for the Model 3 19" is somewhat on the high side, we measured it to be 24 lbs.
And again, thank you for that. I contacted them on this and asked them to update their Model 3 wheel guide to reflect the actual weight rather than the ‘speculated‘ weight. In my case finding out the Tesla 19” Sport wheels with sensors are approximately 25 lbs each takes me out of the market for any replacement 19” wheel that’s heavier.
 

oneshortguy

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#19
And again, thank you for that. I contacted them on this and asked them to update their Model 3 wheel guide to reflect the actual weight rather than the ‘speculated‘ weight. In my case finding out the Tesla 19” Sport wheels with sensors are approximately 25 lbs each takes me out of the market for any replacement 19” wheel that’s heavier.
Looks like they finally updated it.

With all the Model 3s they have been doing, I am not surprised they have not had the time to weigh the sport wheel until now.
 

Sandy

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#20
Looks like they finally updated it.

With all the Model 3s they have been doing, I am not surprised they have not had the time to weigh the sport wheel until now.
Ok! That was quick. Good on TSportline. Just wanted to make sure the correct info was out there.