Automatic Model 3 trunk open/close

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barjohn

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#21
Unless you have some experience taking your 3 apart and getting it back together again, I would not suggest this for a first time project. It can be done but plan on spending a day doing it. I think someone with experience can probably get it down to 3 hours.
 

barjohn

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#23
A word of caution to those planning on doing this yourself. The trunk lid cover that must be removed has white and blue snaps. Unlike many of the other snaps Tesla uses, these can be difficult to free and often get left in the tail gate instead of staying with the cover. It is not unusual to damage one or two so it may be a good idea to go by Tesla and see if they have any in stock you can purchase. The white ones appear to be larger. If you are anal like me you would prefer to reassemble with working snaps that aren't damaged and holding like they should. Take pictures of everything you will be removing before hand as you may be surprised when you go to put it back together that you can't recall exactly how a particular piece was supposed to go. Anyone with questions feel free to ask.
 

hydrofied714

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#24
I spent a good deal of time reviewing and providing feedback to TeslaOffers on the installation manual and the videos. As a result, I have seen clips of yet to be published videos that would help make the installation easier. I and they also learned the hard way that leaving the connectors on the cables that go from the control module to the upper trunk lid via the corrugated rubber tube was a mistake. I finally got both cables with connectors through but it was two hours of tedious and difficult work with a few swear words thrown in for good measure. They suggested cutting off the connectors and then reattaching them which would have made it a lot easier but I did't have everything I would need to do that with me and set out to get a wire pull through the tube and then to pull the wires. There are numerous thing you have to do to attempt doing this.

On everything but the car monitor the same button used for open works to close the trunk. Inside the car, Tesla disables the button when the trunk is open.

Where to place the module and more importantly where to place the closing mechanism motor is the bigger challenge. I can't say I found the perfect way yet. The motor has a couple of mount holes but I haven't found anything I could mount them on. The module is small and light but finding a flat surface is difficult. Finally, you will have a lot of cable left for everything but power so tidying this up can be challenge too. I think I did ok on that part.
Keep us updated on how well the mod holds up after a few months.
 

barjohn

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#25
I'll be happy to do that. They appear to be well made components, even the wiring wrap matches the Tesla original on their own cables. By the way, in the quiescent state it only draws 0.3ma. On start to engage motors to open or close there is a transient that draws about 16A before it drops to a lower level. This is the way most electric motors operate. They fuse it with a 20A fuse. They are going to test it on the switched 12V that is rated at 15A and see if it trips the electronic breaker. The electronics use very little power, it is the lift strut motors that use the majority of the power. I have tested whether it remembers speed and height settings after power is removed and it does.
 
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#26
Hey everyone, a quick update on the 12V power source. We have figured out another place to get the power. For those who do not want to tap the 12V power in the frunk, you have another option now!

 

tipton

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#27
no way i could do this myself. would gladly pay to get it done. there is surely a ton of money to be made for a shop in the right location doing this. likely none near me though that's for certain
 

barjohn

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#28
I have to admit, it was a bit scary the first time worrying about whether i would inflict serious damage on my $60K car. I have now taken it apart and put it back together at least 5 times now and what used to take me hours I can now do in less than 15 minutes. I would imagine I could do a complete install in less than 3 hours now. It took me all day + the first time. The hardest part still would be running the wiring from the lower trunk to the trunk lid. Without connectors on the wires it should be easier but it still won't be easy. All the rest of the wiring is pretty easy, especially with the new type of T connectors they are now using.

The reason I had to take it apart so many times was that I am working with the company and Raymond to resolve a few bugs and I am now on the third release of the firmware. I am still testing it but it appears to have fixed the issue. As for the constant 12V source, I am not convinced that the post by Raymond is a good solution. It could be due to differences in our vehicles as my car was built in April 2018 and his is a newer car, I could not obtain 12V at that location and the wire gage was probably 18 or 20 and that seemed too light for a 12V power source. I found a good 12V switched power source in the trunk at the sub woofer amplifier and that is an easy connection to make. The only problem with using a 12V switched source is that when the car goes into deep sleep and cuts the 12V power, the first pull on the handle wakes the car but does not open the trunk and you have to wait a few seconds for the trunk to rematch and full power then it opens the trunk. If you are out and about and using Sentry mode this isn't an issue as that keeps the 12V power up and the trunk opens instantly. The other option at the moment is running to the battery, then it always opens, even if the car has gone to sleep. There may be another better location to tap but everyone I know is still looking for one.

I have to admit, I love having this feature. Now it is a piece of cake to open the trunk from the driver's seat when my wife approaches and needs to put something in the trunk and she can easily close it with a push of the button. Using Brian at iTela's stronger struts to spring the trunk open required a lot of force to close it.
 

barjohn

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#30
Not that I know of. I haven't spoken with Mark lately but I will check to see if he will be offering the service and post back.
 

MrTofuDragon

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#31
I installed the full kit from TeslaOffer yesterday and today (including the foot kick sensor) after receiving it yesterday afternoon. In other words, I couldn't wait to install it. I had a 2010 Camaro before this and did tons of upgrades to it that involved wiring (backup camera, in-dash HUD, wiring door lock buttons). Honestly installing this kit in the Model 3, while still tons of work, was easier than any install I ever did in the Camaro. In terms of difficulty, it reminded me of a backup camera install of which I've done a few... with the added hard parts being pulling the cables through the rubber trunk boot and removing the rear bumper.

I got my 12V power for the kit from the VCLEFT power connection in the driver side footwell and it seems to work perfectly. In fact, it lessened the install work because I only needed to do a single run up the driver side for all the connections (CAN-L, CAN-H, 12V, front button) instead of another run up the passenger side.

Using info in Jon Osborne's video here at 2:58 he shows where to get the 12V (just need an M6 nut to put on the existing bolt). He wrote in the video description it is a constant 12V that drops to around 9V when the car sleeps. So no issues with activating the trunk fully via the handle on the first try even after the car goes to sleep. [Yes, the video is about getting 5V but the source is a 12V.]


The foot kick sensor wasn't working at first and I couldn't figure out why. Didn't help the confusion that there's an ACC wire that isn't used. Turns out the posi-twist and posi-lock wire taps that they supplied didn't provide a stable connection. (Btw, the wire taps they provided for the CAN connections were fine) So I just went back to basics and soldered one wire to the other for both the 12V and green wire trunk signal. The sensor works great with a single foot wave across the underside of the rear bumper (e.g. right to left). Tested it and works as expected (if your phone is on you, it opens, if not, it doesn't). Essentially it provides the exact same functionality as a single press of the trunk handle, only without physically touching anything. Pretty slick.

At first I was going to put the sensor in the middle, but 1) I might install a hitch kit one day and 2) I don't want the trunk to hit anyone in the face after they wave their foot. Having it off to the side under where the left tail light is makes it super easy to avoid the trunk opening after activating the sensor.
img_20190601_104506-jpg.26459
 
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barjohn

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#32
I may have to rerun my 12V to either VC left or just use VC Right as that would be close. I'll have to see how hard the panel is to remove with the glove box being there.
 

MrTofuDragon

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#33
UPDATE: DO NOT CONNECT ANYTHING TO VCRIGHT. VCRIGHT shuts down when car goes to sleep and anything connected will keep car awake and eventually throw 12V Battery Errors.

He shows accessing the VCRIGHT 12V starting at 1:14 in the video. It's a tight area to reach but should be well below the glovebox. It may actually be easier since there is no steering wheel or pedals to work around.
 
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barjohn

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#34
I had seen this video in the past but couldn't find it when I was looking for it (now I know why, because I was searching for constant 12V, not 5V). Thanks for pointing it out to me. The funny thing is I watched the video above last night and I would have sworn it showed the installation on VC left.
 
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barjohn

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#36
Yes. I met with Mike from this forum yesterday as he lives near me and wanted to see an installation. I showed him my installation and went over what you need to do to install it. He wanted to hire me to do it but I am busy packing to move having sold my house so I couldn't consider taking on the job. Some one with moderate experience could do it in 4 hours and maybe a real experienced person in 3 hours. The main difficulty for me is the under dash wiring and that is just because of my age making it more difficult. RPM and Tesla Offers were in talks but Tesla Offers wants installers only. I tried to explain to them that most buyers spending this much money want one person responsible. Frankly, you can't charge enough if just doing installs to take on the liability. If you break or damage someone's Tesla, you could be out a lot more money than you could charge for an install and if there is a problem with the unit, it can take time to find and fix and might have nothing to do with the installation. For example I helped Tesla Offers through 5 revisions to the firmware. What installer is going to want to go back and open up the trunk again to do the update? How can they make money if this should happen?
 

Klaus-rf

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#38
A word of caution to those planning on doing this yourself. The trunk lid cover that must be removed has white and blue snaps.
Just wanted to add that the trunk lid trim uses white and Turquoise snap-pins and NOT Blue ones (doors).

I would not hesitate to do this install. LOTS of work, but not very colplex IMHO. Once it's refined a bit more though.
 

barjohn

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#39
Warranty void if this installed?
No reason why it should be voided. It doesn't do anything to the car that would harm it. It's just too bad Tesla doesn't offer it as an after market kit like they do Homelink now. Would changing your wheels void the Tesla warranty or using lowering springs or different trunk or trunk struts? I don't think they would be able to do that. They would need to prove that what you did was the direct cause of the problem you are claiming a warranty repair on. Very unlikely that Tesla would do this.

You are right on the pin color it is turquoise, my bad.
 

MelindaV

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#40
Warranty void if this installed?
here's the language in the warranty on exclusions specific to installing accessories:
Any repair, alteration or modification of the vehicle that was made inappropriately, or the
installation or use of fluids, parts or accessories, made by a person or facility not authorized or certified to do so...
they have that in there so if something installed, that is not authorized by them, causes an issue they are not responsible to resolve the issue under warranty.
So on the simplest level, you install this and in the process break a trim connector/clip and that piece of trim develops a rattle. If you go in to claim that new rattle be repaired under warranty, they can use this line as reason they do not have to repair the issue for free under warranty.
If you go in with an issue with your steering wheel lever not working correctly, they can't use the installed trunk lift kit as a reason to not honor the warranty of the lever.