Auto Opening Trunk

EVTuning

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Mine was built April 2019. Wonder if the glass is bigger or the hinges more inward.
The other side has exactly the same issue.
There was a revision change to the gasket itself. Perhaps to help alleviate some of the water pouring into the trunk. The hinges, and hardware are unchanged, the glass is unchanged as well. Body Panel part numbers have not changed either. There should be some adjustment in the hinges for panel alignment where you could shift things a bit so it isn't rubbing. However it depends on how your panel fitment is currently and if this would make other things worse or not.
 

Cookiebob

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Mine was built April 2019. Wonder if the glass is bigger or the hinges more inward.
The other side has exactly the same issue.
Damn. Really disappointing to see this.

I asked around on twitter and reddit to see if people had this rubbing before purchase and they said no.

I actually have rubbing with just the stock strut due to poor trunk alignment on one side.

It’s possible the trunk lid alignment could be a diy by unscrewing hinge bolts. But it’s a laborious process apparently. I’m having a tesla mobile ranger do a trunk lid alignment before I do my install. He said he could probably pull and bend the trunk lid so it fits better without rubbing.

I might zip tie or whatever I need to do to prevent rubbing with the ribbed rubber casing around tesla offer strut.
 

Skione65

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Damn. Really disappointing to see this.

I asked around on twitter and reddit to see if people had this rubbing before purchase and they said no.

I actually have rubbing with just the stock strut due to poor trunk alignment on one side.

It’s possible the trunk lid alignment could be a diy by unscrewing hinge bolts. But it’s a laborious process apparently. I’m having a tesla mobile ranger do a trunk lid alignment before I do my install. He said he could probably pull and bend the trunk lid so it fits better without rubbing.

I might zip tie or whatever I need to do to prevent rubbing with the ribbed rubber casing around tesla offer strut.
@Cookiebob,

Let us know if you’re able to alleviate the rubbing and what your fix/remedy was.

Ski
 

P99GUY

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There was a revision change to the gasket itself. Perhaps to help alleviate some of the water pouring into the trunk. The hinges, and hardware are unchanged, the glass is unchanged as well. Body Panel part numbers have not changed either. There should be some adjustment in the hinges for panel alignment where you could shift things a bit so it isn't rubbing. However it depends on how your panel fitment is currently and if this would make other things worse or not.
In my case it would make things worse. The trunk is in perfect alignment on both sides.

It is only affected when opening and closing and is not pinched when fully closed so I may just see what happens over time. I do use my trunk quite often.
 

EVTuning

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In my case it would make things worse. The trunk is in perfect alignment on both sides.

It is only affected when opening and closing and is not pinched when fully closed so I may just see what happens over time. I do use my trunk quite often.
Can you post some pictures. I would like to compare it to any 2018 and a 2019 we have in the shop with the kits installed
 

P99GUY

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Pictures of my trunk fit? Panel Gap?

I have removed the struts until I can find a better solution.

I have not had time to email Autoease about it but will do that next week.
 

P99GUY

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Ok I have finally had time to email Autoease about the strut fit.
We will see what they say.

I have asked if there is a different strut available that does not use the rubber boot.
There appears to be a seller on eBay that shows straight struts without the accordion rubber over the spring.
 

Cookiebob

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Just a quick update
Will do. My timeline is pretty far out though. Service appointment July 22nd. And I may need to push back in case any complications with other installs at the shop: coilovers and headliner.
I got some Tesla Service assistance with my stock trunk alignment on Monday 7/29. So now instead of stock struts rubbing on one side, now slightly on both. So when I attempt the install this weekend I’ll have a frame of reference that I already had rubbing beforehand.

Pics show rubbing on both sides with stock struts. Also, pics shows the areas where paint exposed near hinge due to re-alignment.
 

SoFlaModel3

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My kit from Tesla Offer touches a little bit on each side

Edit: actually upon further investigation into these pictures you can see where it rubs the weather stripping on the way down.

Driver’s side

75e29378-dc57-44c6-b313-f1d7347fde1c-jpeg.28315


Passenger side

e6f3b531-4c56-40e0-9892-6f5e9c9c594d-jpeg.28316
 
Last edited:

Cookiebob

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Here’s mine too. Sorry for the delay.
a2fc8014-ec03-45de-b9bc-a4400afc3f39-jpeg.28317

21012b71-de0f-492e-a271-106645dcecb6-jpeg.28318

One shows on the way up. The other shows on the way down. Same on both sides.


Some other install feedback
* I had a very hard time with a cheap wire snake I bought at Home Depot. If I did it again, I'd find some thinner fiberglass fish tape/wire snake from Amazon with multiple metal loops to stagger the 2 to 3 cables you snake up at once.

* My multimeter was invaluable to troubleshoot odd issues (same with amazing real-time support from Tesla Offer and the engineer over WhatsApp. Thanks a million guys)
* * I tapped the CAN wires multiple times, but it took like 5 times to get the blue wire tapped with the provided wire taps, which were good quality it's just that the CAN wires are like 20 gauge (very thin and maybe at an extreme-end of the gauge tolerance of that power tap).
* * If you connect power to the control box without having the large green wire attached and/or the CAN wires, then the control box goes to sleep. And you need to short the power and the ground pins for the control box to work again (until presumably some capacitor loses its charge)
* Here is near the recommended spot for the optional footwell close button. This is different than what's seen in the teslanomics youtube video.

* The app/keyfob close mechanism that listens on the CAN wires isn't 100% reliable for me. Frequently I have issues. Not sure if it's because of my poor wire tapping or something else.
* Tesla Offer has sent out two firmware updates for the control unit. Each one says that a 32GB or smaller capacity micro sd card is necessary. I used a 64GB micro sd card formatted to fat32, and it worked fine.
* To reassemble the plastic trunk lid cover, you generally can't pull off the white tabs. But you have to slide the trunk cover back onto these tabs. The angles look like the following: / (left) | (left-middle) | (right middle) \ (right). I had to bend one white tab (the right one) so that I could get the trunk cover to slide back in. Couldn't bend the cover to slide back on otherwise.
 
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P99GUY

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Here’s mine too. Sorry for the delay.
View attachment 28317
View attachment 28318
One shows on the way up. The other shows on the way down. Same on both sides.


Some other install feedback
* I had a very hard time with a cheap wire snake I bought at Home Depot. If I did it again, I'd find some thinner fiberglass wires from Amazon with multiple metal loops to stagger the 2 to 3 cables you snake up at once.
View attachment 28319
* My multimeter was invaluable to troubleshoot odd issues.
* * I tapped the CAN wires multiple times, but it took like 5 times to get the blue wire tapped with the provided wire taps, which were good quality it's just that the can wires are like 20 gauge (very thin).
* * If you connect power to the control box without having the large green wire attached and/or the CAN wires, then the control box goes to sleep. And you need to short the power and the ground pins for the control box to work again (until presumably some capacitor loses its charge)
* Here is near the recommended spot for the optional footwell close button. This is different than what's seen in some youtube's videos like teslanomics.
View attachment 28320
Those photos look exactly like mine. I am just not comfortable with it yet as it looks to be separating the gasket from the window.

Please follow up after a while with any issues you find..
Thanks!
 

SoFlaModel3

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Here’s mine too. Sorry for the delay.
View attachment 28317
View attachment 28318
One shows on the way up. The other shows on the way down. Same on both sides.


Some other install feedback
* I had a very hard time with a cheap wire snake I bought at Home Depot. If I did it again, I'd find some thinner fiberglass fish tape/wire snake from Amazon with multiple metal loops to stagger the 2 to 3 cables you snake up at once.
View attachment 28319
* My multimeter was invaluable to troubleshoot odd issues (same with amazing real-time support from Tesla Offer and the engineer over WhatsApp. Thanks a million guys)
* * I tapped the CAN wires multiple times, but it took like 5 times to get the blue wire tapped with the provided wire taps, which were good quality it's just that the CAN wires are like 20 gauge (very thin and maybe at an extreme-end of the gauge tolerance of that power tap).
* * If you connect power to the control box without having the large green wire attached and/or the CAN wires, then the control box goes to sleep. And you need to short the power and the ground pins for the control box to work again (until presumably some capacitor loses its charge)
* Here is near the recommended spot for the optional footwell close button. This is different than what's seen in the teslanomics youtube video.
View attachment 28320
* The app/keyfob close mechanism that listens on the CAN wires isn't 100% reliable for me. Frequently I have issues. Not sure if it's because of my poor wire tapping or something else.
* Tesla Offer has sent out two firmware updates for the control unit. Each one says that a 32GB or smaller capacity micro sd card is necessary. I used a 64GB micro sd card formatted to fat32, and it worked fine.
* To reassemble the plastic trunk lid cover, you generally can't pull off the white tabs. But you have to slide the trunk cover back onto these tabs. The angles look like the following: / (left) | (left-middle) | (right middle) \ (right). I had to bend one white tab (the right one) so that I could get the trunk cover to slide back in. Couldn't bend the cover to slide back on otherwise.
Those photos look exactly like mine. I am just not comfortable with it yet as it looks to be separating the gasket from the window.

Please follow up after a while with any issues you find..
Thanks!
I have feedback from the inventor of the kit, and 2 people that have had the kit for a few months and the brief rubbing seems to not be an issue. In reality the trunk is closed 99% of the time and opening for just a few seconds a few times a day. I will of course watch it closely though.
 

bobjouy

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I have an interrogation regarding running the power cable.
I’m waiting for a kit (almost the same as TeslaOffer but improved — for instance we can close the trunk directly with the car screen —, no CAN tapping and for half the price) and am preparing everything so I won’t run into any issues.

My main concern is getting the power cable to the frunk.

Apparently the big hole on the driver side footwell goes to the frunk, did anyone confirm this?

Here is my video:

I’m wondering if tapping power to the big red wire bolt is OK or if I should go to the trunk.

Manufacturer says going to the 12V battery is better, but it seems harder (don’t know how I’ll be able to run the wire down in the hole).

For those wondering, this is the kit I’m getting:

https://www.alibaba.com/product-det...ml?spm=a2700.icbuShop.41413.10.7f6a5460NUZSmk

And the instructions:
https://hz-icbuim-file.oss-cn-beiji...ctric tailgate installation instructions.pdf"


No foot sensor for me, don’t need it.
 

bobjouy

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Ok auto-answer: there is a 12V source on the passenger side. Way easier to access than the one on the driver side, and same thing: big thick red wire and a bolt.


I'll use this.

 

SoFlaModel3

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Ok auto-answer: there is a 12V source on the passenger side. Way easier to access than the one on the driver side, and same thing: big thick red wire and a bolt.


I'll use this.

You can go right to the battery through the passenger side as well. If you look just above the floor mat you'll see a rubber gasket in the fire wall with 2 red wires. You can drill a small hole to run a wire through it. I heard mixed opinions on whether tapping the battery directly is a good thing to do or not.

PS I wonder how that kit allows you to close from the screen and also subsequently doesn't require tapping the CAN.
 

bobjouy

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You can go right to the battery through the passenger side as well. If you look just above the floor mat you'll see a rubber gasket in the fire wall with 2 red wires. You can drill a small hole to run a wire through it. I heard mixed opinions on whether tapping the battery directly is a good thing to do or not.

PS I wonder how that kit allows you to close from the screen and also subsequently doesn't require tapping the CAN.
Yeah I didn’t want to drill on the car if I can avoid it.
I saw issues with tapping directly to 12V, but no issues tapping to the bolt here.

Regarding how it’s done: I assume the main difference is in the trunk switch button. This is how they spoof the MCU into thinking trunk is still closed.

When you open the trunk, the original switch reports an open position. Their new switch reports a closed position so the mechanism can be actuated again.

With TeslaOffer you’re just tapping into existing wires so no different info thus when the trunk is open the car sees it open.
 

SoFlaModel3

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Yeah I didn’t want to drill on the car if I can avoid it.
I saw issues with tapping directly to 12V, but no issues tapping to the bolt here.

Regarding how it’s done: I assume the main difference is in the trunk switch button. This is how they spoof the MCU into thinking trunk is still closed.

When you open the trunk, the original switch reports an open position. Their new switch reports a closed position so the mechanism can be actuated again.

With TeslaOffer you’re just tapping into existing wires so no different info thus when the trunk is open the car sees it open.


I agree on not wanting to drill even if it’s just a rubber gasket.

On the closing part that makes sense. Basically you’ll press Open and the car will think the trunk is closed. One weird quasi-positive is you could lock the car with the trunk open.