How-To aftermarket sound system info thread

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Oh, if that advice had been given I guess I missed it. I'm confused how that would work though. Would it be a slow-blow fuse or something? Every time the car starts the penthouse will come on for a few seconds before the relay does. I would imagine that a fuse would blow during that time, would it not?
yeah, such and elegant solution from @RoccoX ! I assume that the resistor limits flow to below 5A He says:

I added a 5 amp fuse before the resistor so if a short happened in the amp with the relay opened the resistor would not burn up. I also used the power after the 5 amp fuse but before the resistor to power my lci2 so that if the fuse blows it is obvious as the subwoofer would not work. I would rather that then not knowing the resistor was out of the loop and possibly ending up with the dreaded cannot maintain power error.
 

eXntrc

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That would account for a short in the amp, but I still don't understand how that would help in a situation where the relay was stuck open. As long as only 5 amps is being drawn through the resistor, that fuse wouldn't blow. Which would still allow that resistor to get very very hot.
 

eXntrc

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P.S. I just did the math and 5 amps would still allow the maximum current to flow through that resistor. 5A at 12v is 100 watts. That's the maximum current that resistor can handle, but it's still going to dissipate a massive amount of heat doing so.
 

RoccoX

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That relay you showed is only rated to 40A max. 1,000 watt amplifiers generally pull up to 100A peak. You'll want to make sure your amplifier would never exceed the rating of the relay.

In my experience so far... my suggestion would be to not skimp on this part. Go with the PAC-80 and diode or go with a high quality Solid State relay.

I tried this one and I do NOT recommend it:


@_Travis_, @R1Fast, @Jamie Sibley, @RoccoX have any of you thought about what will happen to the resistor in case of relay failure? Will it just burn out and you're OK with that, or should there be another fail-safe here?

I will do a full write up of my system when it's done, but even though the relay above is rated for up to 120A it did not behave correctly. With no load or even a light load, the relay seemed to work. 0 volts when off, 13.8 volts when on. But once I connected the JL 1200/1 amplifier the relay started behaving very strangely. 0 volts when off, 0.037 volts when on (when the resistor was out of the circuit). Because the relay wasn't doing its job, all of the amplifier load was being passed through the resistor. Which obviously got very hot very quickly. Needless to say, I ripped that relay out of the system and proceeded to buy the D06D100 that Travis used.

Now, this could have just been really bad luck. Maybe I got a bad relay. But everyone, be sure to test your relay under load. Be sure to monitor the temperature of the resistor. It's normal for it to get warm during the few seconds between the penthouse turning on and VC_LEFT turning on. But it shouldn't continue to heat up beyond that. I just worry about what might happen in the future if the relay fails and the resistor goes into thermal runaway.
I have a fuse in-line with the resistor, the fuse will go before the resistor. The power to activate the relay is also taken after this fuse so if the fuse goes for whatever reason my system won’t even turn on
 

RoccoX

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My thought is it is within the limits of the resistor, the resistor should survive, I would also think audibly it would be noticeable something was wrong as well, no proof on that though.
 

eXntrc

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Thank you for taking the time to respond on this @RoccoX I have a question about one thing you wrote though.

The power to activate the relay is also taken after this fuse so if the fuse goes for whatever reason my system won’t even turn on
Is your setup different than this?



I'm trying to figure out what you meant by "The power to activate the relay is also taken after this fuse". From that diagram, the resistor is in parallel to the switch side of the relay. And the power side of the relay comes from VC_LEFT. I'm trying to imagine how your fuse, either before or after the resistor, would influence power to the relay?
 

eXntrc

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I would also think audibly it would be noticeable something was wrong as well, no proof on that though.
This I can confirm. At least if you have a LC2i in your setup. For me when this was happening the power LED on the LC2i would pulse dimmer and then brighter about every 500ms. Each time it pulsed, the audio from the amplifier would cut out. This did not seem to be the amplifier cutting out, but rather the LC2i not routing the audio through to the amplifier.

So if you have a LC2i and you ever hear your subs cutting in and out about twice a second, my recommendation is to immediately pull over and cut power to the amp.
 

RoccoX

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So in that diagram, right before the resistor is my 5 amp fuse, then right after the fuse but still before the resistor I grab my power for the lc2i. Then the lc2i gto circuit feeds out to the relay trigger and also the amp. So if that fuse blows, the lc2i loses power and as such the gto circuit can’t then power the amp.
 
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Thought I'd share some information with you guys. I actually built 3 different enclosures for my Mod 3 to see what fitted and sounded the best. I was doing it in my spare time as I am always working on other people's cars. To get away from all the electrical questions, I wanted to share some enclosure design information for those who want to build your own enclosure or is having someone build one for you.
Version 1, I built an down firing box with a very specific tube port design tuned to 38 hz. That was not a good design for the car! I was trying to have it fit into the trunk cubby and integrated several ways to push air out of the box, but I did not like the way it sounded. It hit hard, but not what I was going after.
Version 2, I built a regular sealed box with 1 10" JL audio this was tuned to 43hz. This sounded really good, but me not wanting to leave well enough alone and wanting to challenge myself with a ported box to get down to 34hz, so I built version 3. I think this is the way to go if you don't have a lot of experience building enclosures. I would of left this in the car, but knew I wouldn't get the super low bass I wanted. This would probably be a very satisfying box for most people that just want some bass. Woofer facing up in a sealed box. I have enclosure software and can play with box design, look at graphs to get a strong idea of how the box will sound, but I will leave it up to you on the air space you want to use, as bass preference is different for everyone.
Version 3, Same as version 2 but with a slotted port. After a lot of math I was able to get 33hz out of the box! I guess because this was my own box I had to triple check the math and design of the port to get to where I wanted to be at. (and with a poker face, No I am not surprised I hit 33hz. Yea right)

I did not build the beauty panel yet, as I don't have a lot of time so I thought I'd share what I got so far.

trunk3-jpg.28955
 

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eXntrc

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right after the fuse but still before the resistor I grab my power for the lc2i. Then the lc2i gto circuit feeds out to the relay
Ahhhh. That's right. I forgot you were using the LC2i GTO to turn on your relay. Either way, if the 5A fuse blows and the relay is open then neither the LC2i or the amplifier would have power.

The part I'm worried about is if the fuse doesn't blow. Since 5A is within the maximum rating of the 100W resistor, I still think it's possible for the resistor to just bake until it burns out. I just hope nothing worse than that. On the medium end of bad things, I imagine equipment could get damaged by the limited in-current. On the bad end of bad things... well, let's hope no carpet or anything else could catch fire.

I know I mentioned the audio cut-out above, which certainly is a good clue that something is off. But my resistor got very hot in a short period of time without any music playing. If I'm driving with the volume down, I wouldn't have even known there's a problem.
 

eXntrc

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I actually built 3 different enclosures for my Mod 3
Wow, very nice work @audioguru. I don't have the software or experience to build a box. I bought one I'm quite happy with, but it takes up a lot more volume. I'm sure this will help others. Just curious, are you providing the plans?
 

RoccoX

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Actually thinking about it, isn’t it volts times amps equals watts? Unless I am wrong at 12 volts and 5 amps we are talking 60 watts to pop the fuse, no? Not sure if it is that simple.
 

Skione65

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Thought I'd share some information with you guys. I actually built 3 different enclosures for my Mod 3 to see what fitted and sounded the best. I was doing it in my spare time as I am always working on other people's cars. To get away from all the electrical questions, I wanted to share some enclosure design information for those who want to build your own enclosure or is having someone build one for you.
Version 1, I built an down firing box with a very specific tube port design tuned to 38 hz. That was not a good design for the car! I was trying to have it fit into the trunk cubby and integrated several ways to push air out of the box, but I did not like the way it sounded. It hit hard, but not what I was going after.
Version 2, I built a regular sealed box with 1 10" JL audio this was tuned to 43hz. This sounded really good, but me not wanting to leave well enough alone and wanting to challenge myself with a ported box to get down to 34hz, so I built version 3. I think this is the way to go if you don't have a lot of experience building enclosures. I would of left this in the car, but knew I wouldn't get the super low bass I wanted. This would probably be a very satisfying box for most people that just want some bass. Woofer facing up in a sealed box. I have enclosure software and can play with box design, look at graphs to get a strong idea of how the box will sound, but I will leave it up to you on the air space you want to use, as bass preference is different for everyone.
Version 3, Same as version 2 but with a slotted port. After a lot of math I was able to get 33hz out of the box! I guess because this was my own box I had to triple check the math and design of the port to get to where I wanted to be at. (and with a poker face, No I am not surprised I hit 33hz. Yea right)

I did not build the beauty panel yet, as I don't have a lot of time so I thought I'd share what I got so far.

View attachment 28955
Hopefully this will help the ‘anemic’ rear base in the Premium Sound P3D+!

Ski
 

eXntrc

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Just checked LC2i.... took 4 seconds for it to power up. Maybe this will indeed mimic the delay of VC_LEFT
Is that 4 seconds from Pethouse on to LC2i GTO from the audio system? If so, that's good. Just be aware though that others are reporting while Sentry is on the audio system will not turn off. And therefore GTO doesn't turn off, nor would it delay the turn-on. @RoccoX can confirm this.
 
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You start with the threshold all the way, but you slowly turn it the other way while generating a 20-40hz tone through the speakers, until you hear it start to come through the sub. Accubass boost level should be midway while you’re doing this.

Leaving the threshold knob all the way will simply disable accubass altogether, regardless of accubass level setting.
This isn’t how the AccuBass threshold works. It doesn’t work like a crossover. The purpose of the threshold setting is for vehicles that roll off the low frequencies only at higher volumes.

The AccuBASS Threshold determines when the AccuBASS process turns on and the AccuBASS Level adjusts the overall level of bass restoration.
https://www.audiocontrol.com/knowledge-base/how-do-i-set-accubass/

For the model 3, the low frequencies do not roll off as the volume increases. The low frequencies are attenuated at all volume levels. The AccuBass threshold knob should be turned all the way clockwise. If you turn it down, you don’t get the benefit of AccuBass at lower volume levels. Then you can adjust the AccuBass level knob to your desired taste.
 

RoccoX

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Is that 4 seconds from Pethouse on to LC2i GTO from the audio system? If so, that's good. Just be aware though that others are reporting while Sentry is on the audio system will not turn off. And therefore GTO doesn't turn off, nor would it delay the turn-on. @RoccoX can confirm this.
Yep, also their is inherently a delay using the gto circuit as first the penthouse comes on, then gto energizes, then the relay (in my case mechanical) has to close, only then does the amp get power. I really don’t want to jinx it, but I have had zero issues. I even had the car parked for 10 days, got back in and no issues. I am just living with the Sentry glitch, I found the additional power draw not noticeable.
 

Defjukie

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This isn’t how the AccuBass threshold works. It doesn’t work like a crossover. The purpose of the threshold setting is for vehicles that roll off the low frequencies only at higher volumes.

The AccuBASS Threshold determines when the AccuBASS process turns on and the AccuBASS Level adjusts the overall level of bass restoration.
https://www.audiocontrol.com/knowledge-base/how-do-i-set-accubass/

For the model 3, the low frequencies do not roll off as the volume increases. The low frequencies are attenuated at all volume levels. The AccuBass threshold knob should be turned all the way clockwise. If you turn it down, you don’t get the benefit of AccuBass at lower volume levels. Then you can adjust the AccuBass level knob to your desired taste.
Good to know. Somehow totally misunderstood the description in their instrutions. I'll be turning it off altogether now that I know what it actually does.