How-To aftermarket sound system info thread

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Feathermerchant

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#21
DefJunkie - I'd like to know if just replacing the subwoofer with a better one would help.
Seems like there are a lot of good 8" subs out there.
 
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#22
So my real question is, how effective are the things like https://www.rockfordfosgate.com/new...tal-signal-processor-now-available-in-stores/ that they used to integrate into the stock system? Is there sound quality lost due to this integration?

Normally, you install a quality, aftermarket head unit to pump out the signal. How does the rockford fosgate 360.3 and similar devices work?

Completely unrelated - a 10in woofer with 7-8in door woofers would be overkill. Glad they took the door ones out. I may leave those in and install a 12 in sub. A 10in sub just isn't beefy enough for low end imo, particularly if you like rap, EDM or metal.

@Feathermerchant - Typically you can't do a simple, direct swap of an oem sub because they are built to require much less power than a decent one.
 

Feathermerchant

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#23
Hmm. I found a JL Audio 8" that only requires 150W.....
I know, 8" seems small. I have a 10" in my Magnum (much larger interior) and it can be way too much.
It is also JL and I really like the sound quality.
I have no idea if the JL would even fit in the 3 or if it is appropriate for the existing enclosure.
I'd need a different amp anyway due to the different impedance. I could probably replace the OEM amp using the OEM power and audio inputs.
Unless the signal is digital.
 
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#24
Did some research on the rockford fosgate 3.sixty.3. It's basically two things in one - A factory signal flattener/ resetter, and a dsp.

So what it essentially does is becomes the raw output that a new fancy head unit would provide while also letting you do the amazing tuning that a dsp and parametric EQs let you do.

You can do either of these things separately for cheaper if you wanted.
 

RoccoX

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#26
Funny I dont have my model 3 yet, however I am planning something similar. Rockford Fosgate has another signal processor that might do the job, the DSR1, which has a 3.sixty.3 built in, as well as an idatalink module which in our cases we would just not use. The DSR1 is significantly less expensive than the 3.sixty.3 with the same capabilities and would provide a good foundation for anything going forward. My plan when the time comes would be that module to get me a clean signal, with something like a JL Audio JX500/1D feeding a 10w3 either in the well or fiberglassed into one of the sides of the trunk. From their it will depend on how much I like the rest of the model 3 sound system, but at least if I want to change anything else I have a good preamp signal to work with.
 

Defjukie

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#27
I'm hoping that one of the inputs into the OEM amp is some sort of clean line-in signal. The other option would be that the head unit is doing the decoding and sending the signal directly to the amp on a per-channel basis (real possibility, given how many speakers are in the car and the horsepower that the computer has).

I figure even if there is no clean signal at the amp, I can take the speaker wires going to the sub and use something simple like a LC2i to get a clean

Feather, I toyed with the idea of just replacing the sub and using the stock enclosure... Problem is it's a ported enclosure, and those are very finnicky to get right - and very speaker-specific. Given the fact you also have to match the DVC aspect, and the impedance... it's probably not worth messing with. You're really only going to get a noticeable upgrade if you put some real power to it, anyway.
 

RoccoX

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#28
Definitely keep us in the loop with your project Defjukie, very curious to see how it comes out. I unfortunately need to wait to February to order mine (long story) so I won’t tackle anything stereo wise until the summer likely. One thing that might not apply depending on what you find is that some cars (like my current 2017 Explorer) put some heavy equalization into the amplified output, guessing to compensate for oem speaker deficiencies. So in this case, if you tap the speaker outputs you would need something that can remove the equilization, otherwise the resultant audio signal that is generated ends up being terrible.
 

Defjukie

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#29
Definitely keep us in the loop with your project Defjukie, very curious to see how it comes out. I unfortunately need to wait to February to order mine (long story) so I won’t tackle anything stereo wise until the summer likely. One thing that might not apply depending on what you find is that some cars (like my current 2017 Explorer) put some heavy equalization into the amplified output, guessing to compensate for oem speaker deficiencies. So in this case, if you tap the speaker outputs you would need something that can remove the equilization, otherwise the resultant audio signal that is generated ends up being terrible.
Agreed. That's why I would use something like the LC2i to flatten the sound a bit and get a clean, amplifiable signal. What I'm really hoping is that there is just a clean signal coming from the head unit. Unfortunately, I believe in the model S the processing is all done in the HU and discrete channels get sent to the amp. Might be the same here, but so far there are enough significant differences between the 2 that I still have hope.
 

Defjukie

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#32
I put in a pair of Infinity Reference 4" in the dash last night. Used this handy video to figure out the disassembly:

I was planning to do all 3 4" speakers, but the center hole has next to no depth clearance, and the replacement speaker just simply would not fit. The left and right holes JUST barely had enough room for the replacement. Overall, it was pretty easy to do and the speakers are cheap enough that I would consider this a no-brainer.

The stock speakers have harnesses, so rather than cut these and splice my wires in, I chose to use male headers from an electronics kit (something like this https://www.adafruit.com/product/3002) and solder my speaker wires to this so I could just plug the pins in to the harness. If I ever want to go back to stock, I can just plug the harness back in to the stock speakers.

Also, there is VERY little clearance to remove some of the Torx screws holding the speakers in place. I had to use a pair of pliers holding a hex bit and turn it that way (i.e. very slowly). If you have one of those low profile ratcheting wrenches, would probably make it a lot easier.
 

Caulin

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#33
Im no audiphile...so I agree the sound system in this car is the best ive ever heard. Once people figure this stuff out I would love to hear one and see if its worth doing FOR ME.
 
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#34
Great info.

As for the sound system, the subwoofer is the biggest disappointment. It just doesnt play 40hz and below. Songs with bass feel bad to listen to because some low notes just simply aren't played and leave it feeling empty untilthe next note is played.

Who dat boy by Tyler the creator is a perfect example. The bass line is two notes that curve lower over a second or two. The first note is clearly audible and rumbles, but the second noteright after it just isnt audible/feelable. If you've never had a real subwoofer before you may not even realize what I'm talking about, but its a huge deal to me. Your minds will be blown when you get one that can hit those low notes well.
 

James W

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#35
The left and right holes JUST barely had enough room for the replacement. Overall, it was pretty easy to do and the speakers are cheap enough that I would consider this a no-brainer.
Was there an issue with size (diameter) clearance or only depth? Also I see in the video the stock speakers are 3 screw tabs vs 4 screw tabs on the infinity reference. Did you have to use an adapter or did you just make new holes with self tapping screws?
 

Defjukie

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#36
Was there an issue with size (diameter) clearance or only depth? Also I see in the video the stock speakers are 3 screw tabs vs 4 screw tabs on the infinity reference. Did you have to use an adapter or did you just make new holes with self tapping screws?
Issue is depth, as stated.

I didn’t feel like making new holes, so I only screwed 2 of the screws. Not really crucial for the 4” speakers to make a perfect seal, since they’re not really moving much air.
 

James W

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#37
Issue is depth, as stated.

I didn’t feel like making new holes, so I only screwed 2 of the screws. Not really crucial for the 4” speakers to make a perfect seal, since they’re not really moving much air.
Thanks for the info.

I have a bunch of new audio equipment that I was going to use in my previous car but never got around to it before trading it in for Tesla. Thinking of doing a full radio build on the 3. Helix DSP, ARC Audio 1200.6, Audiofrog GB Speakers

If I have time this weekend I may try probing the factory amp to see what kinda signals are available. I am not very good with wood working so the sub box and amp rack may be left to a pro.
 

Defjukie

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#38
Thanks for the info.

I have a bunch of new audio equipment that I was going to use in my previous car but never got around to it before trading it in for Tesla. Thinking of doing a full radio build on the 3. Helix DSP, ARC Audio 1200.6, Audiofrog GB Speakers

If I have time this weekend I may try probing the factory amp to see what kinda signals are available. I am not very good with wood working so the sub box and amp rack may be left to a pro.
Please post if you figure out any useful info re: the stock amp. I might try to get back there this weekend, as well.
 

James W

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#39
Found a decent picture of the plug side of the amp for now. If anyone has an insight please share, may save some time.

I'm guessing
left big plug - power supply and/or speaker output.?
small pins in the middle - bus /digital comm to car?
right plug - line in?
 

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Defjukie

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#40
Found a decent picture of the plug side of the amp for now. If anyone has an insight please share, may save some time.

left big plug - power supply and/or speaker output.?
small pins in the middle - bus /digital comm to car?
right plug - line in?
Similar guess to yours:

right harness: unamplified, discrete channel inputs from MCU
middle harness: remote / something else (has 2 wires going to it, I believe)
left harness: amplified output to speakers

My theory is that this amp handles the front door woofers / tweeters, the subwoofer, and one (or both) sets of rear speakers.
As you can see in the attached picture, not all pins are used.
 

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