[Cookiebob]

Please let us know if this fixes the error.

The morning after I installed this, there was no error. I'm going to give it a few more days before I button everything up like the dash board cover and do proper cable management just to make sure it consistently works.

As I saw elsewhere, maybe YouTube comments, the spade connectors recommended by Ingineerix don't provide a lot of tension within the VC_LEFT port but they do the trick. I ended up using some electrical tape to further secure the cable in case I hit another east coast pot hole.

In his video of a non-exploded model 3, his dash board is more deconstructed than I could easily do. I ended up just feeling around rather than seeing the connector. Without removing what looked like a knee airbag, there was no peep hole as shown in the video. I also jammed my phone up in there with video recording to check my work.

I can't remember if that is the current position where I tapped VC_Left. I had to experiment some with those pins. I may have ended up moving the spade connector one pin down than shown in the attached pictures.

 

[RunWatt]

The morning after I installed this, there was no error. I'm going to give it a few more days before I button everything up like the dash board cover and do proper cable management just to make sure it consistently works.

As I saw elsewhere, maybe YouTube comments, the spade connectors recommended by Ingineerix don't provide a lot of tension within the VC_LEFT port but they do the trick. I ended up using some electrical tape to further secure the cable in case I hit another east coast pot hole.

In his video of a non-exploded model 3, his dash board is more deconstructed than I could easily do. I ended up just feeling around rather than seeing the connector. Without removing what looked like a knee airbag, there was no peep hole as shown in the video. I also jammed my phone up in there with video recording to check my work.

I can't remember if that is the current position where I tapped VC_Left. I had to experiment some with those pins. I may have ended up moving the spade connector one pin down than shown in the attached pictures.

Awesome! Keep us in the loop. I'm ready to pull the trigger on the relay and the recommended spade connector.

 

[Zimmra]

What's the consensus on amplifying the speakers powered from the 'front' amplifier? Too difficult to be worth it?

 

[_Travis_]

What's the consensus on amplifying the speakers powered from the 'front' amplifier? Too difficult to be worth it?

I'm doing that. It requires a bit more disassembly than the subwoofer, but it's not particularly difficult. You can tap the signals from the ICE computer or from the OEM speaker locations. The most difficult part is deciding how far you want to go. There are ten channels in the front two feet of the cabin. Personally I'm using six of those.

 

[Dfwatt]

Apple lossless as in ALAC? I didn't know that was ever supported, although I know FLAC is. If you're talking AAC then I believe that is supposed to work, are you sure your drive isn't corrupt?

thanks for responding. I've been trying to get feedback on both forums for days and no one has even responded to the question so thanks for doing that. I'm pretty sure the drives are fine. I've checked them on a computer and they do not appear corrupted but I'll double check. I don't think that's it because when I put in a brand new flash drive that it just had a bunch of apple lossless files that's the MP4 format at least in terms of file extensions in Windows, it would not read that either and I'm quite sure that brand new flash drive was not corrupted because it had never been put in the car before. Something happened not in the last firmware update but in the one previous to that that changed the way the computer read files off drives. I thought it might have been some kind of inability to arbitrate between multiple drives on a bus but when I put the flash drive into its own USB socket all by itself with nothing else it's still would not read it although under both conditions on the bus or all by itself it would pick up the graphics information and the file listing correctly but it would not load the apple lossless music file , generating a repeated loading error that I can't get out of. It has to be a change at the firmware level because these drives worked flawlessly on two cars and now on the same two cars that are virtually identical except for color they create the same loading error. Would love to hear from other folks who are using either MP3s or lossless files whether their drives are also now unreadable.

 

[Zimmra]

I put in a brand new flash drive that it just had a bunch of apple lossless files that's the MP4 format at least in terms of file extensions in Windows

MP4 is a video format (which happens to be commonly used by Apple products, but is not Apple specific). File extensions across Windows/macOS/Linux should be congruent.

If you are talking about M4P files (confusing, I know) - those are DRM protected and will only work in iTunes or on Apple hardware (iPhone, iPad, Apple TV, etc). I'm assuming, as is the case with most forums, that this forum's rules prevent me from telling you how exactly to break that DRM and convert it into another format, but it is possible. I would normally suggest converting to FLAC, but it sounds like you're coming from iTunes which doesn't play nice with FLAC, so what you'll want to do is convert M4P to either WAV or aiff (both are still lossless filetypes)

I'm doing that. It requires a bit more disassembly than the subwoofer, but it's not particularly difficult. You can tap the signals from the ICE computer or from the OEM speaker locations. The most difficult part is deciding how far you want to go. There are ten channels in the front two feet of the cabin. Personally I'm using six of those.

Tapping at the speaker locations sounds like it would be tough, would require running 4 additional conductors of speaker wire, no? Two to route the 'original' speaker level audio back to the DSP then two to route the 'new' speaker level audio back to the speaker location? I feel like if I am going to do something it is one of two routes - a) gut and replace as much as possible (woofers, mid-range, and tweeters. don't mess with immersion) or b) just add a sub and see if that will be sufficient. It's a tough choice

 

[_Travis_]

thanks for responding. I've been trying to get feedback on both forums for days and no one has even responded to the question so thanks for doing that. I'm pretty sure the drives are fine. I've checked them on a computer and they do not appear corrupted but I'll double check. I don't think that's it because when I put in a brand new flash drive that it just had a bunch of apple lossless files that's the MP4 format at least in terms of file extensions in Windows, it would not read that either and I'm quite sure that brand new flash drive was not corrupted because it had never been put in the car before. Something happened not in the last firmware update but in the one previous to that that changed the way the computer read files off drives. I thought it might have been some kind of inability to arbitrate between multiple drives on a bus but when I put the flash drive into its own USB socket all by itself with nothing else it's still would not read it although under both conditions on the bus or all by itself it would pick up the graphics information and the file listing correctly but it would not load the apple lossless music file , generating a repeated loading error that I can't get out of. It has to be a change at the firmware level because these drives worked flawlessly on two cars and now on the same two cars that are virtually identical except for color they create the same loading error. Would love to hear from other folks who are using either MP3s or lossless files whether their drives are also now unreadable.

Just as a sanity check, is your drive all apple lossless or do you also have some plain jane mp3s? I have a flash drive filled with flac files and I've had two problems. One, it flat out won't read certain flash drives. No idea why. Two, probably once a week when I get into the car it won't recognize the current drive and I have to unplug/re-plug.

MP4 is a video format (which happens to be commonly used by Apple products, but is not Apple specific). File extensions across Windows/macOS/Linux should be congruent.

If you are talking about M4P files (confusing, I know) - those are DRM protected and will only work in iTunes or on Apple hardware (iPhone, iPad, Apple TV, etc). I'm assuming, as is the case with most forums, that this forum's rules prevent me from telling you how exactly to break that DRM and convert it into another format, but it is possible. I would normally suggest converting to FLAC, but it sounds like you're coming from iTunes which doesn't play nice with FLAC, so what you'll want to do is convert M4P to either WAV or aiff (both are still lossless filetypes)

Tapping at the speaker locations sounds like it would be tough, would require running 4 additional conductors of speaker wire, no? Two to route the 'original' speaker level audio back to the DSP then two to route the 'new' speaker level audio back to the speaker location? I feel like if I am going to do something it is one of two routes - a) gut and replace as much as possible (woofers, mid-range, and tweeters. don't mess with immersion) or b) just add a sub and see if that will be sufficient. It's a tough choice

Yeah, you have to run all the signals in both directions. It's a lot of wire. If you want to tap into the front signals, the best option is just to connect to the wires coming out of the ICE computer, under the right-side dash. If you're on the fence, I'd recommend just doing the subwoofer, and then deciding whether that's enough. Tracing the wires for the front speakers isn't particularly difficult, but it is a lot of work.

 

[Johnston]

thanks for responding. I've been trying to get feedback on both forums for days and no one has even responded to the question so thanks for doing that. I'm pretty sure the drives are fine. I've checked them on a computer and they do not appear corrupted but I'll double check. I don't think that's it because when I put in a brand new flash drive that it just had a bunch of apple lossless files that's the MP4 format at least in terms of file extensions in Windows, it would not read that either and I'm quite sure that brand new flash drive was not corrupted because it had never been put in the car before. Something happened not in the last firmware update but in the one previous to that that changed the way the computer read files off drives. I thought it might have been some kind of inability to arbitrate between multiple drives on a bus but when I put the flash drive into its own USB socket all by itself with nothing else it's still would not read it although under both conditions on the bus or all by itself it would pick up the graphics information and the file listing correctly but it would not load the apple lossless music file , generating a repeated loading error that I can't get out of. It has to be a change at the firmware level because these drives worked flawlessly on two cars and now on the same two cars that are virtually identical except for color they create the same loading error. Would love to hear from other folks who are using either MP3s or lossless files whether their drives are also now unreadable.

My experience, and this pertains to just MP3s and FLACs, I also don't think Apple Lossless ever worked in the 3:
1. I used a single physical drive partitioned into 2 separate drives for music and TeslaCam.
2. At first I went with a USB drive, but experienced pauses during music playback. This is especially rampant when playing FLACs. I suspect the higher bitrate of the FLACs is causing hiccups.
3. I then switched to a SATA SSD put in a USB enclosure. This is fully working with no hiccups whatsoever. The drive is 256GB partitioned to two separate 128GB drives.
4. Even with full stock Model 3 audio, I hear things on songs I don't usually hear when playing through cheap headphones or doing non-critical listening on home theater rig.

 

[Dfwatt]

My experience, and this pertains to just MP3s and FLACs, I also don't think Apple Lossless ever worked in the 3:
1. I used a single physical drive partitioned into 2 separate drives for music and TeslaCam.
2. At first I went with a USB drive, but experienced pauses during music playback. This is especially rampant when playing FLACs. I suspect the higher bitrate of the FLACs is causing hiccups.
3. I then switched to a SATA SSD put in a USB enclosure. This is fully working with no hiccups whatsoever. The drive is 256GB partitioned to two separate 128GB drives.
4. Even with full stock Model 3 audio, I hear things on songs I don't usually hear when playing through cheap headphones or doing non-critical listening on home theater rig.

We had apple lossless files working flawlessly for the first five months of ownership. In the last month they've crapped out. We also have these on an SSD in a USB cage. So something has changed in the firmware. I just submitted a bug report and I'll be curious to hear back if I do. Which I probably won't! We can still play apple lossless files from our phones if we use the phone as a Bluetooth source for the audio system. But that's kludgy.

 

[Dfwatt]

MP4 is a video format (which happens to be commonly used by Apple products, but is not Apple specific). File extensions across Windows/macOS/Linux should be congruent.

If you are talking about M4P files (confusing, I know) - those are DRM protected and will only work in iTunes or on Apple hardware (iPhone, iPad, Apple TV, etc). I'm assuming, as is the case with most forums, that this forum's rules prevent me from telling you how exactly to break that DRM and convert it into another format, but it is possible. I would normally suggest converting to FLAC, but it sounds like you're coming from iTunes which doesn't play nice with FLAC, so what you'll want to do is convert M4P to either WAV or aiff (both are still lossless filetypes)

Tapping at the speaker locations sounds like it would be tough, would require running 4 additional conductors of speaker wire, no? Two to route the 'original' speaker level audio back to the DSP then two to route the 'new' speaker level audio back to the speaker location? I feel like if I am going to do something it is one of two routes - a) gut and replace as much as possible (woofers, mid-range, and tweeters. don't mess with immersion) or b) just add a sub and see if that will be sufficient. It's a tough choice

I misspoke. It's actually a .M4A a window extension. And just to be perfectly clear these worked for the first 6 months of ownership flawlessly. Without any change in Drive, or anything else. We just plugged our USB SSD into the recommended hub adapter and it worked flawlessly. So I just don't get it

 

[Dfwatt]

What's the consensus on amplifying the speakers powered from the 'front' amplifier? Too difficult to be worth it?

You'd have to confirm this with def Junkie, but I think swapping out the front drivers get you the biggest bang for the buck. The Infinity reference 4022 is reasonably efficient, pretty close to the stock driver frankly so you're not losing much if any stock volume level. Only if you really need volume levels over a hundred DB on a regular basis is there much margin in putting additional amplification in. I'd be worried about your hearing in that case. Where additional amplification probably is really needed is for the subwoofer where power consumption can be fierce.

 

[Dfwatt]

no problem, love having a place to share and collaborate on this type of info. Speaking of which, I had originally deemed the center 4" unreplaceable due to the tighter clearance. Now that you're saying it's doable, I might go back and give it a try!

As for the rear door speakers, you're a braver man than me. Let us know how it goes.
My next item is going to be to try to replace the rear shelf speakers. One obstacle is that I believe you have to remove the vertical trim on either side of the rear seats (which destroys a single-use clip in the process), but once you've done that and undone a couple bolts I believe the entire rear shelf cover just slides off.

And, of course, I'm still working on brackets for the front woofers. I haven't had time lately due to my kids' schedules, but if/when I get the design nailed down I will share the files here.

I've got a neat if somewhat kludgy and very cheap fix for the problem of anchoring that third machine screw on the four post Infinity reference 4022. Previously I had just done what you were talking about and secured two posts and put some 3M tape on the other side but I realized that if I could improvise a little clip I could put that third screw in. Rather than waiting for the proper part, I took a top off a Seltzer can and it actually works really nicely! Looks kind of funky but that's okay cuz nobody sees it!

 

[eXntrc]

@Dfwatt Great impromptu engineering!

 

[Dfwatt]

@Dfwatt Great impromptu engineering!

Thanks! More to come, and will have to be really impromptu in relationship to securing the Infinity REF 4022s in the rear doors later today. Got my collection of glues, tapes, screw packs, etc all set to go! Will post findings, solutions, results

 

[PLUR]

Thanks! More to come, and will have to be really impromptu in relationship to securing the Infinity REF 4022s in the rear doors later today. Got my collection of glues, tapes, screw packs, etc all set to go! Will post findings, solutions, results

If you succeed, please share details. I would love to try it out too.

 

[Dfwatt]

If you succeed, please share details. I would love to try it out too.

For sure. Will post as soon as I have pictures. Going to pop the doors later today.

 

[Defjukie]

For sure. Will post as soon as I have pictures. Going to pop the doors later today.

figure out how to get to the rear deck speakers, while you're at it

 

[Zimmra]

FYI, after a little research I believe this is the amp IC they are using in the ICE, so tapping an analog line before the amp is not possible:
Digital input quad power amplifier

Is it accessible enough to tap the speaker level outputs? If so do you have a pinout or at least a photo of the connector on the ICE designated for the speakers? I could figure it out but I'd prefer to know prior to ripping the car apart. Would much rather do that then tap speaker level at the speakers and route all of the cabling needed.

 

[RunWatt]

For sure. Will post as soon as I have pictures. Going to pop the doors later today.

Did you add a amp/subwoofer with your setup?

 

[Dfwatt]

Thanks! More to come, and will have to be really impromptu in relationship to securing the Infinity REF 4022s in the rear doors later today. Got my collection of glues, tapes, screw packs, etc all set to go! Will post findings, solutions, results

So, here we go. The $64,000 question: can the rear 4-inch drivers be replaced and swapped out for Infinity reference 4022?

Yes they can. But there are some caveats. One of the door Clips will not fit due to the protrusion of the much larger infinity magnet into a part of the door. Unless you're willing to grind that inner plastic structure on the door down with a grinding wheel to get an extra quarter inch of clearance you're going to have to live with that. However the two bottom clips that are critical to securing the door go in and every other one does so it's only one clip right next to the speaker that can't quite reach its socket.

Step one - take off the door with a Torx 30 and remove the pop in Clips carefully making sure to pull straight out or otherwise they will fracture. They take a lot of force to remove especially if this is the first time you've removed the rear door liner.

Step 2 - use a small drill bit to create a countersink hole on the three posts of the stock 4 inch driver. Then take a quarter inch drill and ream the entire plastic bolt attachment out, and the speaker should come out cleanly. Clean up around that because you're going to need all the clearance you can get and this leaves a certain amount of plastic debris in some cases protruding upwards. You can't afford to lose any clearance and the new driver has to fit completely flush on the grill. When you're using the drill be extremely careful that you do not puncture the outer door because otherwise you'll be buying a new one and they're expensive. So go light on the force when you're drilling out those 3 plastic bolts holding the stock driver.

Step 3 - I created a small pin like adapter that would plug into the stock harness (using sewing needles of all things!) but you will need very small pins because the openings in the stock harness are extremely small. Most speaker pins are way too big. I attached a 6in chunk of 16 gauge or 18 gauge wire with the two pins coming out to insert into the harness and then I taped the pen assembly to the harness so that it would not easily disconnect.

Step 4 - you're going to have to find a way to securely attach the driver on top of the old Grill. There's a bit of a tab protruding into the infinity tweeter and that again eats up precious space so I cut that out. It doesn't look like it does anything functional. I used Gorilla Glue in a glue gun and just gave me a very solid bond between the metal of the speaker basket and the plastic Grill structure in the door. I chose a glue gun because of the quick set up time otherwise you've got a basically have the door drawing for hours and hours.

Step 4 - reattach the door but do not expect the pop in clip nearest the speaker to fit. The only way I think that could be fit as if you grind down at least a quarter inch of the plastic sleeve which I think of some kind of polycarbonate. The speaker is going to sit flush against this so I put some kind of foam but not the foam that is already there because that's too thick. I used double sided 3M tape to reduce vibration and offer additional securing of components to one another. Make sure you've got positive to positive on your speakers and keep in mind that Tesla's color codes are a little bit funky. Sometimes blue is positive sometimes red is positive and sometimes even yellow or brown is positive. You can tell on the speaker harness because if you're looking at the speaker from the magnet side up, the positive is on the left side.

Step 5 - crank the volume up!!

If you've replaced the three front 4-inch drivers and the two rear I think you've reached a point of diminishing returns but of course if you're a total Gearhead and you have to replace everything then you got the two in the package shelf to do which I suspect are real Beast. I'm not going to do them. Famous last words.