# Scan My Tesla official thread (support, suggestions, discussion, feedback)



## bwilson4web

*UPDATE:*
It worked!

I left all four doors open during the process and followed the steps:








The relay clunk was within 3 minutes. I was able to rest on the rear seat without a problem.

Here is the connector latch:









It didn't 'stuff in' very well. Given the background, dog hair, I'll need to figure out a better solution:









Now to study some of the YouTube examples of how to operate this App:









Note, enabling "Schedule Departure' aborted the current charging session. So hitting "Charge Now" got it running again:











joverdijk said:


> Hi. I did not have much trouble with this.


_Disable all apps/services that can remotely access car (teslafi, teslaspy, apps/widgets on your phone (*best to set flightmode*) , then Sentry off, mobile access off, *logout of the teslaaccount *(asks password). *Open all doors* and then from standing NEXT to the car, reach in, *rest your 1 hand on the steering-wheel and with other hand on screen to 'service' and select powerdown.* If you sit/lean on the driver-chair it will notice you ;-)_​_Then wait indeed max 8 minutes but most likely the relay clakk will come within 2-3-4 minutes already... Dont sit in front, *dont open any doors*, just crawl in the back and disconnect the can-cable and put your wireharnass in between._​_I think i remember pushing IN the little strip in the middle to pull-out connector from female side, not sure, did not give any problems._​_. . . _​
Thanks! I've highlighted what I didn't do.

I didn't think to open all doors which I'll leave open after the relay clack. I've also got a scheduled departure time set which I'll turn off as well as WiFi in the car. I'll raise the driver seat back for a little more space.

Upon hearing the relay clack and the without touching the rear seat, I'll lay on the rear floor to work the connector. The video is very helpful on the connector latch. I'm still curious how you handled the OBD connector but like Ikea instructions, 'some assembly is required.'

Bob Wilson


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## bwilson4web

"SCAN MY TESLA" has one poorly describe feature, how to tailor a display, which I'd like to explain:









The overall flow:

Survey the TAB (table) of choice.
Use the WRENCH icon to bring up the icon to reorder the data the way you want.
Select any DATA POINT you don't want and use WRENCH to DELETE.
Select ALL tab and choose the data point you want to add.
Use WRENCH to bring up double arrow and copy icon.
Make a silent COPY of data point using the WRENCH icon to bring it up.

Select TAB you are working on.
Use CIRCLE DOWN to PASTE the selected data point.
Use WRENCH to bring up arrows to move data point to where you need in the display.
There may be easier methods but this one works.

Bob Wilson


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## scottf200

My son and I installed a cable in his 2018 LR TM3 AWD this past weekend. I had my non-Raven 2018 X. We did some parallel testing looking at accel and regen which I'll probably put a new thread. Here is one test. I guess neither of us realized that the front had limited 'contributions' except under pretty hard accel. ie. doing +5 while in AP wouldn't even kick it in.

From a FB post in the ScanMyTesla page a Model X Raven owner said the opposite. Obviously it has the permanent motor in the front.


> R. W.: I find it more interesting that my [X] Raven runs almost 99% on the front Motor. Only on harder acceleration the rear motor comes in. That is in Germany at even 100 mph. ...












Here is one graph from DatPlot.
~300 kW peak total being used accelerating from 0-70 mph.
~100 kW (1/3) being used by the front induction motor and
~200 kW (2/3) being used by the rear permanent motor.

~75 kW peak being regen from 70-0 mph.
0 kW being regained from the front induction motor and
~75 kW being regained from the rear permanent motor.


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## scottf200

bwilson4web said:


> "SCAN MY TESLA" has one poorly describe feature, how to tailor a display, which I'd like to explain:


When you install a new version does it looks the new custom tab you set up? I thought that was the case in the past and that is why I never did it.


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## amund7

bwilson4web said:


> "SCAN MY TESLA" has one poorly describe feature, how to tailor a display, which I'd like to explain:
> 
> The overall flow:
> 
> Survey the TAB (table) of choice.
> Use the WRENCH icon  Click an item to select it,  to bring up the icon to reorder the data the way you want.
> Select any DATA POINT you don't want and use WRENCH to long press the item to get the context menu and DELETE.
> Select ALL tab and choose the data point you want to add.
> Use WRENCH to bring up double arrow and copy icon.
> Make a silent COPY of data point using the WRENCH icon to bring it up.
> 
> Select TAB you are working on.
> Use CIRCLE DOWN to PASTE the selected data point.
> Use WRENCH to bring up arrows to move data point to where you need in the display.
> There may be easier methods but this one works.
> 
> Bob Wilson


You must be an engineer, you like to stick a wrench in everything 

Looks like I really need to make some instructional videos, especially about this. It's a lot simpler, forget the wrench, you just tap the signals you want to select, copy, move etc.
But keep the feedback coming, I want to do some tidying, streamlining and modernization of the UI, so it's easier to use and understand. There is way too much stuff in the menus that should be moved to a new Preferences page. Bjørn already helped me a lot, just seeing how he used it, and his complaints of what felt clumsy gave the arrows and copy button. (You can also do that from the long-press menu, but it's more work, and that used to be the only way to do it)



scottf200 said:


> When you install a new version does it looks the new custom tab you set up? I thought that was the case in the past and that is why I never did it.


Yes! Everything is stored exactly like you left it.

And this is another one of my dilemmas. It is stored the way you left it, in the first version you installed... because the app (currently) can't know what is your deliberate changes, and what is just there from an earlier version. So when there are new versions, with changed layouts or new signals, they only show up in the All tab - because that tab always get recreated, to be sure you can get to the new items. I am working on a solution for this - but the only idea I have is to also store which items you have purposely deleted, so to not re-add those - otherwise add all missing items to all tabs. Also any new tabs.

The 2 ways to get new signals and tabs now is:
1. Wrench -> Factory reset this tab
or
2. Wrench -> Factory reset ALL tabs

Especially if you have a model 3 and had the app for a while, you should try a reset ALL tabs. There are LOTS of new signals and tabs lately, that you might not have seen.
PS. You will also lose your stored trips if you do the reset ALL tabs. Which is why I don't do this automatically on each upgrade.

Sorry to derail the thread, I should make a dedicated Scan My Tesla thread, if mods allow it.


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## bwilson4web

Good guess:


amund7 said:


> You must be an engineer, you like to stick a wrench in everything


I was mostly having to study Bjørn's video several times, the last 25%, to finally come up with a reproducible method. My earlier attempts were frustrating so some suggestions:

A state diagram with operation lines labeled with the action that goes from one state to the next. Unlike text, some of us think in images which is a blessing and a curse. You don't even want to know how I see and dream maths.
Many of the states do not clearly show what the application is doing. This was probably what caused my frustration. I thought I'd done something but the visual clues were 'subdued' so I'd do it again which probably toggled it to something else.
If there is a "Paste" option in a menu list, there could be a "Copy" entry too. The obscure 'book' between the UP and DOWN icons does not shout COPY.
Retain as a "legacy" the last "ALL" tab table of variables so the user can bring the Android device into the nice, warm, coffee and family friendly home while we work on tuning the tabs into what we want. Showing the last values works for me but a zero value works too.
*Well Done!* "Factory" and "Tab" reset. I haven't had to use them but it was comforting to know I could back to my starting point.
Not investigated, yet, is getting the recorded data exported as hopefully a CSV or delimited text file. Once the time-stamped, data are input to columns with data headers, I'll be able to do my kind of analysis.

My first investigation will be a waste heat analysis. I've already been surprised by the brake temperatures but I really want to understand how many kW and kWh are being transferred in the battery and powertrain coolant flows. For example, if you are driving to a Supercharger at a low SOC, Bjørn already reports the car preheats the battery which potentially shortens the range. It might be better to set the navigation to an adjacent address, not the Supercharger. Then upon arrival put the car on the Supercharger and let the grid, not the battery, warm up the battery.

I've touched the brake disc and had it burn with IR measured temperatures of ~140 F (60 C). Given the air flow, a substantial amount of energy is lost. But I understand there are disc brakes with much lower, parasitic friction that could be a significant range extender.

SCAN MY TESLA will become my tool for a quantitative, efficiency analysis of our SR+ Tesla. As it gives me similar data to my previous Prius studies, we'll be on the high-side of range and low cost transportation.

Bob Wilson


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## scottf200

This was 45 mph to 70 mph in 5 mph increments via the roller wheel. NO front motor usage.

(Scan My Tesla (SMT) data, DatPlot graphing, Explain and Send screenshot chrome extension.)


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## bwilson4web

scottf200 said:


> This was 45 mph to 70 mph in 5 mph increments via the roller wheel. NO front motor usage.
> 
> (Scan My Tesla (SMT) data, DatPlot graphing, . ...


I am thinking we might want to have a separate thread for sharing data studies from this thread which has been more of a 'tool maker'. Both are needed but different. For example, I'm learning how to use Android OpenOffice to find the data files. I still need to export either the files or spreadsheets which has nothing to do with what the data reveals.

Talking about tools, I am not having much luck finding an Android user's forum that matches my needs. A Debian Linux fan, I suspect Android has a lot Linux/Unix functions hidden behind the user interface. I'll head to the bookstores to see if there is an _Android For Dummies_ book.

Bob Wilson


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## amund7

Welcome,

I am making this thread to keep an index of frequently asked questions, links, and docs. Plus discuss the little things, recieve feedback and give help if needed. Will also be happy to take suggestions, and discuss the deep technical why's and if's of the app, adapters etc.





















https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.emon.canbus.tesla (Play store listing)
https://sites.google.com/view/scanmytesla/ (documentations)
https://www.facebook.com/scanmytesla/ (Announcements and news)

The free UI demo: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.emon.canbus.teslademo

JWardell's thread on Model 3 canbus decoding (the source of most, if not all Model 3 related stuff in SMT) https://teslaownersonline.com/threads/diagnostic-port-and-data-access.7502/

Related software, also by me, all open source, ask about these too:
https://github.com/amund7/UDPLogger/releases UDP Logger (to plot CSV files)
https://github.com/amund7/CANBUS-Analyzer/releases Canbus Analyzer (to plot and read "can dumps" and "raw logs", to decode new signals, also reads a myriad of other canbus formats, plus DBC files)
https://github.com/amund7/ScanMyTeslaToInfluxDB A tool that can chew both RAW logs, CAN dumps and CSV files from SMT and put them in a InfluxDB time series database. This one is super beta, currently for programmers only.


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## amund7

Post #2 reserved for something future


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## jdcollins5

When will Scan My Tesla be available for iPhone users?


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## amund7

jdcollins5 said:


> When will Scan My Tesla be available for iPhone users?


This is by far the #1 most frequently asked question lately 

Exactly when is hard to say, possibly spring/summer 2020, if all goes to plan.


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## Hugh_Jassol

I was just looking here to get one of the cables, but it says it's for M3 produced after 1/2019. I have M3 built 12/2018... does that mean I need something else?


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## Feathermerchant

They sell both. Make a note on your order or send them an email. I just got mine and have not installed it yet.


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## JWardell

My two honest suggestions:
1-cutomizable or more meter choices. Like 7 segment LED numbers, real-looking analog gauges, etc. Different sizes too. This is why Torque is so nice. (Maybe even graphs over time?)
2-DBC support or some way of adding custom data
3-Advanced stuff like this is well worth an additional upcharge


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## GregRF

Hugh_Jassol said:


> I was just looking here to get one of the cables, but it says it's for M3 produced after 1/2019. I have M3 built 12/2018... does that mean I need something else?


I ordered mine from the GPS Tracking America website (just placed my order this week and have not received yet). Should be cheaper and quicker to get.

2018 ($29.95 +$9.99 S+H): https://www.gpstrackingamerica.com/shop/hrn-ct20t1/
2019 ($29.95 +$9.99 S+H): https://www.gpstrackingamerica.com/shop/hrn-ct20t11/

I have also ordered the recommended Scantool OBDLink LX ($49.95):


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## Needsdecaf

I can't wait to try mine out this weekend!


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## Needsdecaf

jdcollins5 said:


> When will Scan My Tesla be available for iPhone users?


I found a friend who uses Android and asked if they have an old phone sitting around in a drawer. Galaxy S5 to the rescue, I hope!


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## michi84

JWardell said:


> 2-DBC support or some way of adding custom data


That would indeed be nice, Torque Pro has had the ability to add custom PIDs for ages. Just some way to define a custom signal (like in a DBC, with CAN ID, start bit, lenght and scaling) would be fine for a start.


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## Rush

Hi, Well it looks like the Samsung Galaxy Tab A tablet doesn't like the OBD device either, keep on getting the same error







And here is the full error from the Scan My Tesla when I pust the button in the lower right


















I'll also let EMDS know and see what they say, but everything works fine on my old S4 phone, just too small... I tried @Juggernaut suggestion of pairing with Tesla first and that didn't work either.
I might just go ahead and get another obd, which one should I get?
Thanks
Rush


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## Feathermerchant

Did you not get the one they sell?


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## Rush

Feathermerchant said:


> Did you not get the one they sell?


Yes I did and it does not pair with the Dragon Touch 7" that I bought (and returned) or the Samsung Tab A that I just bought. But it does work with my old, not used for 3 years, Galaxy S4 phone. I've gone ahead and ordered a OBDLink lx. I need something that is larger than a phone to see. I've checked the Tab A and see that it runs android 9.0, which @Juggernaut said does not work with the OBD, lack of libraries or something like that. I just spent 45min on the phone with Samsung Tech, nice guy, and there wasn't anything he could do.


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## Rush

Needsdecaf said:


> I found a friend who uses Android and asked if they have an old phone sitting around in a drawer. Galaxy S5 to the rescue, I hope!


Should work fine - I got out my old Galaxy S4, charged it up (and had to remember how to use it...) and it paired fine, but doesn't have enough space for all the info/guages I want to see.


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## Feathermerchant

So a modern phone? Like the one I use now or a new tablet? Is there a list?


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## Rush

Feathermerchant said:


> So a modern phone? Like the one I use now or a new tablet? Is there a list?


Sure, as long as it is android and has bluetooth it will work with SMT. Gauges can be made larger or smaller. Larger they get the less gauges are on the display.


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## scottf200

My old Samsung tablet is working. (note the double vision in the layers of glass when you get below the tinted area of the screen- purple line).


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## amund7

Feathermerchant said:


> So a modern phone? Like the one I use now or a new tablet? Is there a list?


No, but we should make one.

On the good side I have a Lenovo P2 (Android 8) - that is rock solid, runs in my car 24/7, app and screen constantly on. Samsung devices generally good. If you are looking to buy an Android just for the app, Android 9 creates a lot of new restrictions, will quickly close the app if something else is on top. Older Androids are nicer. The app needs to improve on this in the future. Currently, there is no need to get the latest device to run this app, rather the opposite, get a used phone or tablet. The minimum requirement for the app to run is Android 4.4.

AFAIK currently there is only Huawei devices making real problems - and they are still small problems, the gauges are lagging behind a bit, and jittery. Not the display, but the bluetooth. This means the 0-60 timers will not be accurate, and the log plots may look edgy and strange. But for viewing it's fine. I asked for help Reddit, but it seemed to be widely known that Huawei cause problems with many bluetooth apps, and nothing I can do in the app to improve it.

Every Android device SHOULD be able to both run the app and pair. I have even ran it successfully on a $50 china no-brand device, it runs smooth and fast! But some devices are very tickly with the pairing, and need a few attempts. I have also seen that pairing 'falls out', so the device stops working, even if everything in bluetooth settings look OK. Unpair and re-pair should fix it. I have never had these problems with the OBDLink devices, only cheapo chinese bluetooth. These still do a great job for the money, so don't exclude them, just be aware that unpair/re-pair can fix your troubles.


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## Hugh_Jassol

Hugh_Jassol said:


> I was just looking here to get one of the cables, but it says it's for M3 produced after 1/2019. I have M3 built 12/2018... does that mean I need something else?





Feathermerchant said:


> They sell both. Make a note on your order or send them an email. I just got mine and have not installed it yet.


So did they actually make a change on Jan 2019? Also, does the one for <Jan2019 work the same?

EDIT - let me rephrase.... WHAT did they change in Jan 2019....


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## Skione65

bwilson4web said:


> *UPDATE:*
> It worked!
> 
> I left all four doors open during the process and followed the steps:
> View attachment 30903
> 
> The relay clunk was within 3 minutes. I was able to rest on the rear seat without a problem.
> 
> Here is the connector latch:
> View attachment 30904
> 
> 
> It didn't 'stuff in' very well. Given the background, dog hair, I'll need to figure out a better solution:
> View attachment 30906
> 
> 
> Now to study some of the YouTube examples of how to operate this App:
> View attachment 30905
> 
> 
> Note, enabling "Schedule Departure' aborted the current charging session. So hitting "Charge Now" got it running again:
> View attachment 30907
> 
> 
> _Disable all apps/services that can remotely access car (teslafi, teslaspy, apps/widgets on your phone (*best to set flightmode*) , then Sentry off, mobile access off, *logout of the teslaaccount *(asks password). *Open all doors* and then from standing NEXT to the car, reach in, *rest your 1 hand on the steering-wheel and with other hand on screen to 'service' and select powerdown.* If you sit/lean on the driver-chair it will notice you ;-)_​_Then wait indeed max 8 minutes but most likely the relay clakk will come within 2-3-4 minutes already... Dont sit in front, *dont open any doors*, just crawl in the back and disconnect the can-cable and put your wireharnass in between._​_I think i remember pushing IN the little strip in the middle to pull-out connector from female side, not sure, did not give any problems._​_. . . _​
> Thanks! I've highlighted what I didn't do.
> 
> I didn't think to open all doors which I'll leave open after the relay clack. I've also got a scheduled departure time set which I'll turn off as well as WiFi in the car. I'll raise the driver seat back for a little more space.
> 
> Upon hearing the relay clack and the without touching the rear seat, I'll lay on the rear floor to work the connector. The video is very helpful on the connector latch. I'm still curious how you handled the OBD connector but like Ikea instructions, 'some assembly is required.'
> 
> Bob Wilson


What worked? The fact you installed this (the process) and it's working? Did you have install issues?

Ski


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## bwilson4web

A MacOS user, "AirDroid" is an excellent utility that creates a Web server on the Android. You can quickly navigate to the folder holding your files and download them onto the Macintosh. It shows an IP address and port that becomes the URL to access the web server. For example http://192.168.0.12:8888. Once opened, it becomes trivial to get the files moved to the MacOS system.

The list of data points are specific to the trim of your particular Tesla but it must be in "D" or "R" to get all of them. So I opened the "All" table and recorded the data for a minute. Then I transferred the file to my MacOS using "AirDroid" to load into a spreadsheet and generate a list of data metrics.

Bob Wilson


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## bwilson4web

Skione65 said:


> What worked? The fact you installed this (the process) and it's working? Did you have install issues?


Initially, I could not get the car to power down. But keeping the doors open apparently was the last change that got the relay(s) to power down.

I still have a problem with the plastic cover having trouble closing on the wire harness and OBD dongle. My plan is to go to stores selling plastic containers and finding one about the same width and height but greater depth. I'll cut off one side to match the original plastic cover interface and add some hardware fixtures to match the original slots. Then I'll do some dongle placement vs signal strength to maximize performance.

Bob Wilson


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## Feathermerchant

Followed the instructs and it works! Great info.
I have a Oneplus7 phone.
I routed the green wire under the cover so the ODBC dongle lays between the seat and side of the console. The dongle does have flashy lights so it may need to be taped.

BobWilson - You could probably push one connector into the hole in the metal frame to gain more room for it all to fit under the cover.


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## bwilson4web

Feathermerchant said:


> . . .
> BobWilson - You could probably push one connector into the hole in the metal frame to gain more room for it all to fit under the cover.


if you have pictures, I'm always interested in a better approach.

I can imagine folding the adapter wires for a 45-90 degree bend. Then rotating the lower connector and wire 180 degrees. It might fit. Locating the OBD dongle remains an open question for signal strength:









Bob Wilson


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## bwilson4web

Be careful when analyzing a sampling data monitor. For example, I'm curious about the traction motor to battery efficiency. So I plotted:

"R power" - the traction motor reported power in Watts.
"Battery power" - the battery power in Watts.
Efficiency % = "R power" / "Battery power :: you'd think
When plotted as a cumulative efficiency, we get:








Obviously there is something terribly wrong in the early part. But over 20 minutes, the average efficiency settles out:

regenerative efficiency (top line) - the motor generates ~105% of the energy seen at the battery. There is roughly a 5% loss.
total system efficiency (middle line) - adds regenerative and battery energy. Somewhat misleading as the sign of regeneration is the inverse of normal driving.
drive efficiency (bottom line) - this the how much power the traction motor generates over the battery draw. Here we're seeing ~93% efficiency.
There are two problems, the impossible, early values, and the divisor problem. Looking closely at the early data, we find:









"R power" - relatively slow update and a +/- 0.5 Watt scale
"Battery power" - much higher resolution, greater than 0.001 Watt and significantly faster sampling
There are two math tricks that can help resolve the problem:

synthetic data points for the coarse "R power" - using a Gaussian filter (a Bell curve averaging technique,) the +/- 0.5 steps can be locally generated for smaller values over shorter intervals.
averaging intervals for "Battery power" and "R power" - in effect divide the data in fixed intervals and averaging all data points in the fixed intervals. Computationally simple, this is a safe way to bring the two sets of data into a common scheme.
The last problem are small divisors which can amplify noise. Limit testing of the divisor, "R power" can avoid the problem of small divisor values leading to impossible efficiency metrics. Blocking any values under 746 W (~1 HP) should work but going as low as 5-50 W would work too.

All I'm suggesting is dealing with sampled data can lead to misleading results if we don't qualify the data available.

Bob Wilson


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## Feathermerchant

Anyone care to help an Excel newbie graph the log data? I have it imported to Excel starting with the CSV.


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## scottf200

Feathermerchant said:


> Anyone care to help an Excel newbie graph the log data? I have it imported to Excel starting with the CSV.


The DatPlot free graphing tool (http://www.datplot.com/download/ ) is the best option I've found yet. Manipulate the CSV by adding a new column on the left and with the below Excel formula in blue. -- then in Excel I do a 'Custom' format using: 'hh:mm:ss.000' as mask/template. Upon DatPlot import tell it the 1st line is a header (see graphic below). Save that at an Excel file (in case you want to edit again). Then save again as a CSV file.
Do File ... Load new data source and make sure you indicate the first line is a header with column names. (see *2nd* to last graphic below).

Once opened in DatPlot set top right corner of the screen set the X axis to 'hh:mm.ss.fff' column.

NOTE!! that you can turn off symbols for data point because there are SO MANY datapoints from Scan My Tesla that it covers the line completely. (see very last graphic below)

Now just do right click and do 'Data Curve' then 'Add' to add any column like 'Speed'. I have graph samples above.

____ --- below is from the another thread here --- _______

Below is my post on TMC in the SMT thread. This is a poor mans graphing tool (*JWardell*'s above is very cool with addl features. What graphing software?) but I thought it was pretty simply once you learned to use it and added a column to your Excel/CSV with a new time format to your SMT log file. Just thought it may be useful to someone.



XGeek said:


> Thanks for validating that I am not the only one that is red dot-less. Also of note is that when I do start recording the tabs on the top all get grayed out so you can not switch between the different tabs for viewing. I quickly tried UPDLogger and had some performance issues so I have been trying Datplot (DatPlot - From raw data to report ready plots in under five minutes) which I have used before which is well documented, stable and very flexible for making strip charts





XGeek said:


> From what I can tell the time stamps are in milliseconds, not seconds, so you would need to convert the milliseconds to hh:mm:ss.fff which Datplot will understand. In Excel you can convert the milliseconds to the hh:mm:ss.fff format with the following formula: CONCATENATE(TEXT(INT(A2/1000)/86400,"hh:mm:ss"),".",A2-(INT(A2/1000)*1000)) where A2 is the cell that contains the millisecond time stamp. An example of the "how to" conversion can be found at: How to convert milliseconds to time in Excel?. I tried it on my file and it worked fine with Datplot. The thing I like about Datplot is the ability to easily zoom and pan in on the data and once you have things setup the way you like them you can use that template to easily swap new data files in and out with the view that you like. UDPLogger has some nice ease of use as well.


I've been playing more with this DatPlot tool and it is pretty cool and efficient. (Will be visiting my son and we may test to see how the new Hold Mode option looks via SMT and DatPlot data - My X is AP2.0 and no PM motor).

In Excel I do a '*Custom*' format using: '*hh:mm:ss.000*' as mask/template.
=CONCATENATE(TEXT(INT(B2/1000)/86400,"hh:mm:ss"),".",TEXT(RIGHT(B2,3),"000"))

As an example, below is to Pane (right click, add pane) and 3 plots on top (right click, add plot curve). Bottom graphic is how you tell DatPlot that you have a header line.










Red is the header line option of '1'. Green below is just the Excel formatted time that DatPlot likes. After import you signify this column will be used for X-axis in the top right corner drop down box.










NOTE!! that you can turn off symbols for data point because there are SO MANY datapoints from Scan My Tesla that it covers the line completely.


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## JWardell

Hugh_Jassol said:


> So did they actually make a change on Jan 2019? Also, does the one for <Jan2019 work the same?
> 
> EDIT - let me rephrase.... WHAT did they change in Jan 2019....


Tesla changed the connector we plug into to a different one with more pins. So you need to get a harness with the same connector as your car.



scottf200 said:


> The DatPlot free graphing tool (http://www.datplot.com/download/ ) is the best option I've found yet. Manipulate the CSV by adding a new column on the left and with the below Excel formula in blue. -- then in Excel I do a 'Custom' format using: 'hh:mm:ss.000' as mask/template. Upon DatPlot import tell it the 1st line is a header (see graphic below). Save that at an Excel file (in case you want to edit again). Then save again as a CSV file.
> Do File ... Load new data source and make sure you indicate the first line is a header with column names. (see last graphic below).
> 
> Once opened in DatPlot set top right X axis to 'hh:mm.ss.fff' column.
> Now just do right click and do 'Data Curve' then 'Add' to add any column like 'Speed'. I have graph samples above.
> 
> ____ --- below is from the another thread here --- _______
> 
> Below is my post on TMC in the SMT thread. This is a poor mans graphing tool (*JWardell*'s above is very cool with addl features. What graphing software?) but I thought it was pretty simply once you learned to use it and added a column to your Excel/CSV with a new time format to your SMT log file. Just thought it may be useful to someone.
> 
> I've been playing more with this DatPlot tool and it is pretty cool and efficient. (Will be visiting my son and we may test to see how the new Hold Mode option looks via SMT and DatPlot data - My X is AP2.0 and no PM motor).
> 
> In Excel I do a '*Custom*' format using: '*hh:mm:ss.000*' as mask/template.
> =CONCATENATE(TEXT(INT(B2/1000)/86400,"hh:mm:ss"),".",TEXT(RIGHT(B2,3),"000"))
> 
> As an example, below is to Pane (right click, add pane) and 3 plots on top (right click, add plot curve). Bottom graphic is how you tell DatPlot that you have a header line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Red is the header line option of '1'. Green below is just the Excel formatted time that DatPlot likes. After import you signify this column will be used for X-axis in the top right corner drop down box.


Thanks for suggesting that software, looks like it would be very useful not just for this but for tons of data graphs I do otherwise, and I waste so much time wrestling with excel. Which can't even begin to handle these giant csv files either.


----------



## scottf200

JWardell said:


> Thanks for suggesting that software, looks like it would be very useful not just for this but for tons of data graphs I do otherwise, and I waste so much time wrestling with excel. Which can't even begin to handle these giant csv files either.


It is a nugget for sure. Please note I updated the post with the last graphic --- you can turn off symbols for data point because there are SO MANY data points from Scan My Tesla that it covers the line completely.


----------



## Feathermerchant

Thanks for the help ScottF.
I got everything to work just like you said.


----------



## TaccoBill

JWardell said:


> I waste so much time wrestling with excel. Which can't even begin to handle these giant csv files either.


The PowerPivot function in Excel can handle csv files with millions of lines. It can also create pivot tables and graphs for analyzing the data.


----------



## Rush

Well my OBD from EMDS and the Samsung tablet finally decieded to talk to each other a couple days ago... Fantastic! I've just placed the tablet in the front compartment of the center console with the lid up. It fits fine in there for now. And then when I'm parked I just put it inside the console so it's not visible.


----------



## JWardell

TaccoBill said:


> The PowerPivot function in Excel can handle csv files with millions of lines. It can also create pivot tables and graphs for analyzing the data.


Never heard of that, don't see it...is that the same as PivotTable? But that will only link to a database.


----------



## TaccoBill

JWardell said:


> Never heard of that, don't see it...is that the same as PivotTable? But that will only link to a database.


There is an add-in that needs to be activated. 

Go to File > Options > Add-Ins.
In the Manage box, click COM Add-ins> Go.
Check the Microsoft Office Power Pivot box, and then click OK.
If you don't see the add-in, you may have to download it for free from MS. It is pivot tables on steroids. You can link to databases, text (ie csv) files, etc. It overcomes the size limits for importing data rows in normal Excel sheets. I've connected them to csv files with millions of lines.

https://powerbi.microsoft.com/en-us/blog/getting-started-with-power-pivot-part-i/


----------



## TaccoBill

scottf200 said:


> My old Samsung tablet is working. (note the double vision in the layers of glass when you get below the tinted area of the screen- purple line).


The screen is reflecting off both inner and outer surfaces of the windshield glass. I use a piece of teleprompter glass https://www.twowaymirrors.com/product/teleprompter-mirror-sample/ to reflect my tablet.


----------



## TaccoBill

JWardell said:


> My two honest suggestions:
> 1-cutomizable or more meter choices. Like 7 segment LED numbers, real-looking analog gauges, etc. Different sizes too. This is why Torque is so nice. (Maybe even graphs over time?)
> 2-DBC support or some way of adding custom data
> 3-Advanced stuff like this is well worth an additional upcharge


I second these suggestions. Plus make the parameter selections viewable offline (ie without being connected to the obd adapter or having the car on or in drive), so you can set up each tab prior to driving. And the Perf tab 0-60 needs to be bigger / easier to see. Thanks.


----------



## JWardell

TaccoBill said:


> There is an add-in that needs to be activated.
> 
> Go to File > Options > Add-Ins.
> In the Manage box, click COM Add-ins> Go.
> Check the Microsoft Office Power Pivot box, and then click OK.
> If you don't see the add-in, you may have to download it for free from MS. It is pivot tables on steroids. You can link to databases, text (ie csv) files, etc. It overcomes the size limits for importing data rows in normal Excel sheets. I've connected them to csv files with millions of lines.
> 
> https://powerbi.microsoft.com/en-us/blog/getting-started-with-power-pivot-part-i/


There is no Power Pivot to be found int Microsoft app source that comes up when adding add-ins. Searching finds documentation for it, but all the instructions for adding it are out of date. I wonder if they killed it off. Add another tick to why I despise Microsoft products.


----------



## TaccoBill

JWardell said:


> There is no Power Pivot to be found int Microsoft app source that comes up when adding add-ins. Searching finds documentation for it, but all the instructions for adding it are out of date. I wonder if they killed it off. Add another tick to why I despise Microsoft products.


It depends on your version of Excel - https://support.office.com/en-us/article/where-is-power-pivot-aa64e217-4b6e-410b-8337-20b87e1c2a4b


----------



## scottf200

TaccoBill said:


> The screen is reflecting off both inner and outer surfaces of the windshield glass. I use a piece of teleprompter glass https://www.twowaymirrors.com/product/teleprompter-mirror-sample/ to reflect my tablet.


Thanks. @pavankp had a great reference to one in the other related thread (follow red up arrow next to his name below). You can order a specific size too.


pavankp said:


> @*scottf200 *Yes, I experimented with showing on the windshield, including with a reflective film, but didn't like the results. That is why I bought a beamsplitter mirror for my setup. With this, you don't see any double vision, neither in daylight nor at night.


----------



## jdcollins5

Is there an up to date PID file for the Model 3 available? I have used Engine Link for Apple with my Prius for years. Engine Link will let you add custom CSV files or individual PID‘s.

While waiting for Scan My Tesla for Apple devices, it would be nice to see if I can monitor as many PID’s as I can on Engine Link.


----------



## Feathermerchant

Heater Left and Heater Right are reversed. 

Duct Left and Duct Right are also reversed.

Verify by un-syncing left and right. Then set right temp to 'LO' and left temp to 'HI' or 80 and air to recirculate. Measure outlet temperature left and right and compare it to the App. You will see they are reversed.


----------



## Needsdecaf

Ok, I haven’t used Android in 5 years. I bought the bundle online which came with a code to download from the play store. How do I use it? Using a 5 or more year old Galaxy tablet.


----------



## michi84

Feathermerchant said:


> Heater Left and Heater Right are reversed.
> 
> Duct Left and Duct Right are also reversed.
> 
> Verify by un-syncing left and right. Then set right temp to 'LO' and left temp to 'HI' or 80 and air to recirculate. Measure outlet temperature left and right and compare it to the App. You will see they are reversed.


Is that with firmware 2019.40.2.1? There were some changes.


----------



## Feathermerchant

Yes FW 2019.40.2.1


----------



## scottf200

I collected 'all' data from my X and my sons 3 to see the types of things each collected. I merged them and sorted by the names (DataType) to get rid of the direct (name) matches to try to see and show others the differences.

FYI, here are the none matching columns. Note: skipped numbers on the left indicate where the matches were.

Not sure if some of the remaining names could be changed to line up (match). TM3 'R torque' vs TMSX 'Rr torque measured' or 'Rr torque estimate' as an example. Don't get me wrong, I fully understand @amund7 has put a huge effort into his app (with the help from others).

imgur for below









imgur below









imgur below


----------



## scottf200

Example of data collected and displayed via DatPlot for my sons AWD TM3 and looking at the front vs rear motor usage. My pre-Raven '17 X with two inductions motors is pretty consistent in both them being used.

Remember:









Here is one graph from DatPlot.
~300 kW peak total being used accelerating from 0-70 mph.
~100 kW (1/3) being used by the front induction motor and
~200 kW (2/3) being used by the rear permanent motor.

~75 kW peak being regen from 70-0 mph.
0 kW being regained from the front induction motor and
~75 kW being regained from the rear permanent motor.










This if 45 mph to 70 mph in 5 mph increments via the wheel. NO front motor usage.


----------



## scottf200

There was a question about 2019.40.2.1 and ping-ponging (side to side subtle movements).
I tried to look at this with my car last night.
@amund7 What is the Model 3 'Steering Speed'?

I have a '17 X 100D (non-raven) AP 2.0 --- I did a controlled test for about 1 minutes time with (blue) and without (pink) a weight on steering wheel at 9 o-clock (270 degree). With weight (blue) is consistently above 0 vs pink line.
I used the same stretch of 6 (3+3) lane highway and going the same speed (60 mph). Far right event line is showing where NoA took me on the same exit both time. I liked up the data points to that.
Aside: You can see in the without (pink) where I had to provide torque after getting prompted by my car. See the two 'event' lines.
KEY POINT: is that on my car I do not see any difference for ping-ponging based on the steering angle recorded on ScanMyTesla.


----------



## ku7tech

I've made a quick and dirty importer for influxdb in python.
I created this because I'm not a windows user, and wanted to visualise in grafana.

While I've only tested on Linux it should work on all OS.

It uses the CSV format, and names fields as per the the CSV header.

There's a batch importer included as well.

https://github.com/emmertex/scanmytesla_to_influxdb


----------



## ku7tech

Added a GPX importer as well.
I used OSMAnd for this example.


----------



## Hugh_Jassol

bwilson4web said:


> A MacOS user, "AirDroid" is an excellent utility that creates a Web server on the Android. You can quickly navigate to the folder holding your files and download them onto the Macintosh. It shows an IP address and port that becomes the URL to access the web server. For example http://192.168.0.12:8888. Once opened, it becomes trivial to get the files moved to the MacOS system.


There's also android file transfer https://www.android.com/filetransfer/ which lets you browse it via usb cable. Open a finder-like window with drag-n-drop support


----------



## Hugh_Jassol

New user here. I bought the cable for my 2018 LEMR from e-mobility, installed, and connected my bluetooth OBDII adapter ($12 on amazon, if anyone is looking for an inexpensive one).

One thing I have noticed in using this my first day is that I will get occasional nonsensical values. For example, check out this screen shot, paying particular attention to the red box:








After 10-15 seconds or so, it will refresh the values and it will be correct... and then a few refreshes later I will get nonsense.

Is this expected behavior? I should point out I am using a Amazon Kindle Fire 7 (7th gen) along with the BT OBDII adapter listed above. So it's not like I'm using top-of-the-line stuff here.


----------



## bwilson4web

This is called "noisy data" and comes from several potential sources of which the ones we have some control:

weak signal between OBD and Android - this is handled by testing the signal strength and moving as needed to get a 'less negative' dB signal (i.e., stronger)
weak processor on Android - this is handled by recording only the data of interest for an experiment so the processor won't run behind
Once I have the data in a spreadsheet, I make a second data array to the right with continuous data columns. To the right of the data cells, I make column headers for the interesting data where the first data row is set to zero. The second data row either replaces a valid data from the original OR copies the earlier cell. For example, the original column is B and the new column L to the right: "=if (b3="";l2;b3)" Replicate the function for all cells and you'll have columns of continuous data. Copy the new columns and "paste special" to make it raw data. Then you can sort the various columns and 'fix' the outliers.

Sometimes I do a more sophisticated approach. If I know the valid data ranges, anything outside of that range as well as the empty cells are copied from the upper cell ... the last known good data. For example, if a field can not be a negative, "=if(b3="";l2;if(b3<0; l2;b3))"

What we are doing is gleaming the valid data from the out-of-bound values while also making continuous data columns for plotting.

GOOD LUCK!
Bob Wilson


----------



## Hugh_Jassol

Thanks @bwilson4web - I'm quite familiar with noisy data and how to smooth/fill missing data. My main concern was if that was something unique to my setup or if others see it as well. In this case I am guessing that the BT connection is not using any message integrity checking or other methods to ensure no bit flips/drops/etc. which I guess makes sense in a streaming application. Although I am surprised by how frequently the data gets mangled.

If I had to guess, it's my very slow-n-cheap Kindle Fire 7. As an iPhone/iPad user, I only have this tablet to allow me to use the occasional android app like Scan My Tesla. I'll try reducing the channels, but since the BT connection transmits the CAN data at the same rate no matter what, I'm guess the Fire will get overwhelmed regardless of which channels I am recording.

In any case, thanks for confirming that this is a 'normal' occurrence!


----------



## amund7

No this is not normal. Well, it is occasionally expected, but of course unwanted.

I will try to make a list:

1. Model S has quite a few hard-coded 'spam filters' that killed most of the corrupt data, made by analyzing commonly recieved corrupted packets. Model 3 does not have this maturity yet, and new packets are added fast.
2. Bluetooth communications for Android does not tell the app how much data is coming, and if there's more. I recieve blocks, these can be 1 character, or 20 and a half line. To get most of the data, I try to stich these together until I get whole lines. This code is super old, made on Model S many years ago. Contains timers to try to detect if the stitched hex actually belongs together, or if there has been a hickup in the data stream, then discard the prevoius piece.
3. Cheap adapters have a hard time keeping up, and more often give crazy values than the (high-grade) OBDLink devices.
4. Some phones are just wierd with their Bluetooth. My Huawei P20 Pro, when I got it early this year, did not work at all. Many firmware updates later it sort of works, but the data comes in very jittery, renders 0-60 timers useless, and also creates occational corrupt data. Even with the same car, same adapter, a lot more corrupt data. Could be amplified by the stitching in #2. I checked some Android developers forums, thinking my code sucked, got the reply that every Android brand has their own bluetooth stack, each worse than the next, Huawei and I think Xiaomi were mentioned as problematic for app developers. I also tried to firmware flash my OBDLink device, with the official OBDLink app - BRICKED IT! Restored it by reflashing with a Lenovo P2, still works today 
5. The more stuff you're showing on your tab, the more of all the above seems to happen, at least on the ELM327-based adapters.

I have never seen the slower packets such as the min/max cell temperature and volts go corrupt on the model 3. If this happens constantly, please send me some logs (RAW log), and I will see if I can hard-code some filters against it.

I will spend more time on improving the app in this respect, my wish is that the app runs perfectly on all hardware, old, new, expensive or cheap.

But until then, YES better hardware would give you a better experience.
Less data on the same screen could also help, that's free to try.
Try a regular Android phone first, NOT Huawei or Xiaomi.
If that does not help, try an OBDLink LX adapter.


----------



## bwilson4web

I'm seeing a very low error rate, ~10 out of 30,000 samples which in the big scheme is tolerable. These rare, noise events didn't really bother me. Still I can appreciate the need to share test data with @amund7, the author, via private communication.

My practice is to record just the CSV data, not the RAW log. But I understand the need for the raw data. Would it help if I used the "ALL" tab and recorded a sample, say 5-10 minutes of both CSV and RAW?

To share the data, I would add a 'configuration' file describing the equipment and Tesla along with the CSV and RAW logs stuffed in a ZIP file. Then share a URL to the ZIP file. Does that work for you?

Bob Wilson


----------



## amund7

bwilson4web said:


> I'm seeing a very low error rate, ~10 out of 30,000 samples which in the big scheme is tolerable. These rare, noise events didn't really bother me. Still I can appreciate the need to share test data with @amund7, the author, via private communication.
> 
> My practice is to record just the CSV data, not the RAW log. But I understand the need for the raw data. Would it help if I used the "ALL" tab and recorded a sample, say 5-10 minutes of both CSV and RAW?
> 
> To share the data, I would add a 'configuration' file describing the equipment and Tesla along with the CSV and RAW logs stuffed in a ZIP file. Then share a URL to the ZIP file. Does that work for you?
> 
> Bob Wilson


I need the data that creates the corrupted values, if I am to catch them. So I would need some data from @Hugh_Jassol where he sees those screwed up temperatures.


----------



## JWardell

It's time to bring up an annoying issue that prevents me from using ScanMyTesla _most_ of the time. It is rarely able to connect to the OBDLink LX. I plugged it in permanently a month or so ago, and I think only a day or two was I able to successfully use the app.
I thought this might be caused by the OBDlink being powered for hours not connected to any phone (while it charges, or parked in sentry), but today I made very sure to wake the car with the phone next to the car and it still would not connect. I can hold down the button to place it in blinking pairing mode, and select it from within the bluetooth devices, but the app still fails to connect. Then sometimes randomly it will work.
I'm kind of leaning toward the being an OBDlink issue, but I welcome your thoughts, does anyone else have trouble connecting?


----------



## Feathermerchant

I'd say OBDLink. Which one do you have? I have the one that comes with the wiring harness. It works great with my phone and tablet.
It actually works in the house when the car is in the garage.


----------



## bwilson4web

JWardell said:


> I'm kind of leaning toward the being an OBDlink issue, but I welcome your thoughts, does anyone else have trouble connecting?


No trouble but to be sure, I loaded "Bluetooth Pair". This application does a Bluetooth scan reporting signal strength of devices to my Android device.

Bob Wilson


----------



## Hugh_Jassol

JWardell said:


> It's time to bring up an annoying issue that prevents me from using ScanMyTesla _most_ of the time. It is rarely able to connect to the OBDLink LX. I plugged it in permanently a month or so ago, and I think only a day or two was I able to successfully use the app.
> I thought this might be caused by the OBDlink being powered for hours not connected to any phone (while it charges, or parked in sentry), but today I made very sure to wake the car with the phone next to the car and it still would not connect. I can hold down the button to place it in blinking pairing mode, and select it from within the bluetooth devices, but the app still fails to connect. Then sometimes randomly it will work.
> I'm kind of leaning toward the being an OBDlink issue, but I welcome your thoughts, does anyone else have trouble connecting?


I bought an OBDLink LX as well... solved the data "noise" I was getting with the $10 no-name one from Amazon. I've only had it ~10 days and one time, mid-drive, it just stopped. I had to unplug/replug the adapter to get it back. Every other time it worked ok. I'm using it with a Kindle Fire 7.


----------



## Insaneoctane

I guess I am paranoid, but all the graphing suggestions seem fairly "unknown" and I am not in the habit of running exe files that aren't known to be harmless.....so I am unsure how to graph my data! I recorded a trip on my way to work today which was over 1 hour of driving and created a 2.5M row CSV and Excel is sometimes choking on it. I was able to plot battery voltage but not cell temp mid (it thinks it's a text field and will only allow count in pivot tables). Definitely struggling here. The first 7 minute file I created seemed to have lots of drops. Still trying to figure out how the data gets written (and when it doesn't), how to graph with no risk of malware and how to automate data logging at some point in the future. All help appreciated. 

PS. My temps for "Duct left/right" are all over from -40 to 233...is this temp or angle or something else weird?


----------



## JWardell

Hugh_Jassol said:


> I bought an OBDLink LX as well... solved the data "noise" I was getting with the $10 no-name one from Amazon. I've only had it ~10 days and one time, mid-drive, it just stopped. I had to unplug/replug the adapter to get it back. Every other time it worked ok. I'm using it with a Kindle Fire 7.


Yeah I think unplugging will usually fix it, but that's a pain. 
Also suspect issue is due to harness tapping VSec power instead of accessory, might never actually be turning off. Could be some memory leak or timer overflow in the OBDlink.


----------



## scottf200

Spec: LR TM3 with 18" wheels

My son's car is down from a high of 308 mile reange to 267. See dark blue line in below graphic.

AFAIK here are the new/perfect values: (72.8 kWh * 1000) / 234 "Wh/mi" is a range of 311.11miles

1) Can other LR TM3 folks using SMT say what their '*Nominal full pack*' value is? (his is quite a bit less than 72.8 which is from https://forum.abetterrouteplanner.com/blogs/entry/6-tesla-battery-charging-data-from-801-cars/ ).

2) @amund7, what is "*Expected remaining*" compared "*Nominal remaining*"? ie. how determined or calculated. TIA I looked at Scan My Tesla Readings but it is not there: Scan My Tesla Readings Google sheet

3) @amund7, what is "*SOC expected*" compared "*SOC*"? ie. how determined or calculated. TIA

SMT pack info image link









Dark blue = est 100% range (This does not appear related to purple temp if you compare last year to this year in the same month or more)









A thru G is cut-n-paste from TeslaFI.COM


----------



## GregRF

scottf200 said:


> 1) Can other LR TM3 folks using SMT say what their '*Nominal full pack*' value is?


As of Today TeslaFi is reporting estimated full range of 293.56. SMT has been reporting Nominal full pack at 69.3 to 69.4 kWh

My mileage has varied:








My normal commute has my battery in the 65-80% SOC. After some longer trips with higher charges and ddeper dischargers the battery has some times recalibrated. I'll be curious what SMT reports after the next of these trips.


----------



## scottf200

scottf200 said:


> Spec: LR TM3 with 18" wheels
> My son's car is down from a high of 308 mile reange to 267. See dark blue line in below graphic.
> AFAIK here are the new/perfect values: (72.8 kWh * 1000) / 234 "Wh/mi" is a range of 311.11miles
> 1) Can other LR TM3 folks using SMT say what their '*Nominal full pack*' value is? (his is quite a bit less than 72.8 which is from https://forum.abetterrouteplanner.com/blogs/entry/6-tesla-battery-charging-data-from-801-cars/ ).
> 2) @amund7, what is "*Expected remaining*" compared "*Nominal remaining*"? ie. how determined or calculated. TIA I looked at Scan My Tesla Readings but it is not there: Scan My Tesla Readings Google sheet
> 3) @amund7, what is "*SOC expected*" compared "*SOC*"? ie. how determined or calculated. TIA
> SMT pack info image link
> Dark blue = est 100% range (This does not appear related to purple temp if you compare last year to this year in the same month or more)
> A thru G is cut-n-paste from TeslaFI.COM


UPDATE: Below answers from 'amund7'
1. Mine has around 74.3 these days, at 18 000 km. My previous one from Feb 2019 kept around 77 for the longest time, but then dropped to 74-75 after about 6000 km. Funny / sad observation was that the second car was down to 75 of day 2 of ownership... so either car 2 is *sugar*, or we shouldn't worry too much about this number







But your son's is, well, looks quite sad, I suppose you did try to charge to 100%? How do the cell voltages / cell imbalance look at 100%?

2 + 3
SOC = (nominalRemaining - buffer) / (nominalFullPackEnergy - buffer) * 100.0);
SOC Expected = (expectedRemaining - buffer) / (nominalFullPackEnergy - buffer) * 100.0);

What is expected remaining? Answer is, I have no clue, but it's there for all S and X too, and in this case a user figured it fits better with the SOC % in the car with a cold battery (snow crystal, blue line indicating 'cold' loss)


GregRF said:


> As of Today TeslaFi is reporting estimated full range of 293.56. SMT has been reporting Nominal full pack at 69.3 to 69.4 kWh
> My mileage has varied:
> My normal commute has my battery in the 65-80% SOC. After some longer trips with higher charges and deeper dischargers the battery has some times recalibrated. I'll be curious what SMT reports after the next of these trips.


Thanks guys. Here is the data I've collected so far. My son did charge to 100% yesterday and it continued to charge (cell balance) for 48 minutes. Cell Imbalance at 100% was 16 mV but the day before at 80% it was 8 mV.










100% charging. Cell balancing (?) for 48 minutes after it hit 100%. Cell Imbalance at 100% was 16 mV.


----------



## Conv90

scottf200 said:


> UPDATE: Below answers from 'amund7'
> 1. Mine has around 74.3 these days, at 18 000 km. My previous one from Feb 2019 kept around 77 for the longest time, but then dropped to 74-75 after about 6000 km. Funny / sad observation was that the second car was down to 75 of day 2 of ownership... so either car 2 is *sugar*, or we shouldn't worry too much about this number
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But your son's is, well, looks quite sad, I suppose you did try to charge to 100%? How do the cell voltages / cell imbalance look at 100%?
> 
> 2 + 3
> SOC = (nominalRemaining - buffer) / (nominalFullPackEnergy - buffer) * 100.0);
> SOC Expected = (expectedRemaining - buffer) / (nominalFullPackEnergy - buffer) * 100.0);
> 
> What is expected remaining? Answer is, I have no clue, but it's there for all S and X too, and in this case a user figured it fits better with the SOC % in the car with a cold battery (snow crystal, blue line indicating 'cold' loss)
> 
> Thanks guys. Here is the data I've collected so far. My son did charge to 100% yesterday and it continued to charge (cell balance) for 48 minutes. Cell Imbalance at 100% was 16 mV but the day before at 80% it was 8 mV.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 100% charging. Cell balancing (?) for 48 minutes after it hit 100%. Cell Imbalance at 100% was 16 mV.


Thank you scottf200 expecially for advices on DatPlot.
I have a problem not being able to plot "only line" and NOT symbols.
If I modify the graph with "Format Data curve " hiding the Symbols but letting show the line the line doesn't appears, SO I have to set to "do not hide symbols to be able to see something.

If you see the SPEED curve it's blue (symbol) and red LINE, but in the graph I can see only the blue symbol, and not the red line.

Another strange thing is related to Scan My tesla. Why I'm loosing so many data from about 7 seconds to 8 seconds (see both Battery Power & Speed).
Yes it seems that I have less datapoints and the values are also NOT following the trend.
It seems I'm loosing the progression in POWER and loosing speed too during this partial data black-out


----------



## Conv90

scottf200 said:


> Spec: LR TM3 with 18" wheels
> 
> My son's car is down from a high of 308 mile reange to 267. See dark blue line in below graphic.
> 
> AFAIK here are the new/perfect values: (72.8 kWh * 1000) / 234 "Wh/mi" is a range of 311.11miles
> 
> 1) Can other LR TM3 folks using SMT say what their '*Nominal full pack*' value is? (his is quite a bit less than 72.8 which is from https://forum.abetterrouteplanner.com/blogs/entry/6-tesla-battery-charging-data-from-801-cars/ ).


Mine it's a Model 3 LRAWD 10 months old and with 20k kilometers
My Nominal Full Pack changed after 2019.40.50.1 and now (2019.40.50.7) it's always 74.9 to 75.0 with 3.40 buffer
Prior to 2019.40.50.1 it was between 73.4 to 73.8 and buffer was 3.30
I'm really interested in this parameter 'Nominal Full pack' and if it's related to battery degradation.


----------



## amund7

Conv90 said:


> Thank you scottf200 expecially for advices on DatPlot.
> Another strange thing is related to Scan My tesla. Why I'm loosing so many data from about 7 seconds to 8 seconds (see both Battery Power & Speed).
> Yes it seems that I have less datapoints and the values are also NOT following the trend.
> It seems I'm loosing the progression in POWER and loosing speed too during this partial data black-out


Have you guys tried my UDPLogger for plotting? https://github.com/amund7/UDPLogger/releases 
Super easy to use (if you read the instructions on how to zoom and scroll), and is customized to read Scan My Tesla CSV files. Can choose which signals to show.

Over to your missing data issue, this looks like a typical 'hiccup', where the data is correct, but delayed in to the app. Could be the phone OS or bluetooth drivers suddenly were busy doing something in the background, disk writing, or the bluetooth adapter gives a 'buffer full' message and the app has to restart the data stream. Try less signals in your tab. Also try disabling other background apps, especially ones that use bluetooth, music, handsfree, Android power saving settings for Scan My Tesla. You can even try going to flight mode (but turn on bluetooth) or turn off wifi, as some phones have interference issues, or shared chips / bandwidth.

If you can catch this again, if you record both the CSV and a RAW LOG at the same time, send me both files and I can investigate.
On the Speed tab you have a signal called 'accuracy', copy that to your tab and watch/log it. Also packets per second will give you an indication, if it suddenly drops a lot, you are seeing the problem that your graphs are showing.

PS. Some phones are notoriously weird with their bluetooth implementation, I have found Huawei P10 and P20 pro constantly delays and 'jitters' the data, it is even visibly lagging behind on the gauges, then catching up. With those phones, the only thing we can hope for is firmware improvements. My P20 pro didn't work at all with Scan My Tesla when I first got it, but after 6 months it's usable, but still visibly laggy on the gauges, 0-100 timing and drag race logs like yours above will be unusably inaccurate. I dove deep in this, thinking there was a bug in my app, or looking for a workaround, but the experts say all Android phone makers make their own interpretations of the bluetooth standard, some interpretations are very far from the standards, and Huawei was mentioned as one of the worst, causing lots of issues for developers.

If you find some trick that improves the situation, I am all ears, as this question comes up from time to time.


----------



## Conv90

amund7 said:


> Have you guys tried my UDPLogger for plotting? https://github.com/amund7/UDPLogger/releases
> Super easy to use (if you read the instructions on how to zoom and scroll), and is customized to read Scan My Tesla CSV files. Can choose which signals to show.
> 
> *------>Thanks, I tried to use it and I like it.*
> 
> Over to your missing data issue, this looks like a typical 'hiccup', where the data is correct, but delayed in to the app. Could be the phone OS or bluetooth drivers suddenly were busy doing something in the background, disk writing, or the bluetooth adapter gives a 'buffer full' message and the app has to restart the data stream. Try less signals in your tab. Also try disabling other background apps, especially ones that use bluetooth, music, handsfree, Android power saving settings for Scan My Tesla. You can even try going to flight mode (but turn on bluetooth) or turn off wifi, as some phones have interference issues, or shared chips / bandwidth.
> 
> *----> Yes many at least 3 bluetooth processing (SMT, Fitbit watch, and car too), WiFI enabled too .*
> 
> If you can catch this again, if you record both the CSV and a RAW LOG at the same time, send me both files and I can investigate.
> On the Speed tab you have a signal called 'accuracy', copy that to your tab and watch/log it. Also packets per second will give you an indication, if it suddenly drops a lot, you are seeing the problem that your graphs are showing.
> 
> *----> Just checked and I have only csv log enabled, I'll put raw log too for future references.
> One strange thing is that I have only 2 "packets per second" datapoint on over 20,000 samples
> ----> I'm no more able to find 'accuracy' on Speed tab nor on All tab.*
> 
> PS. Some phones are notoriously weird with their bluetooth implementation, I have found Huawei P10 and P20 pro constantly delays and 'jitters' the data, it is even visibly lagging behind on the gauges, then catching up. With those phones, the only thing we can hope for is firmware improvements. My P20 pro didn't work at all with Scan My Tesla when I first got it, but after 6 months it's usable, but still visibly laggy on the gauges, 0-100 timing and drag race logs like yours above will be unusably inaccurate. I dove deep in this, thinking there was a bug in my app, or looking for a workaround, but the experts say all Android phone makers make their own interpretations of the bluetooth standard, some interpretations are very far from the standards, and Huawei was mentioned as one of the worst, causing lots of issues for developers.
> 
> *---> maybe the main reason: I'm using a Huawei P10 phone.*
> 
> If you find some trick that improves the situation, I am all ears, as this question comes up from time to time.
> 
> *-----> I'll do some tests using flight mode.*


----------



## amund7

Conv90 said:


> *----> I'm no more able to find 'accuracy' on Speed tab nor on All tab.*


This signal was meant to live in the Speed tab, and is created by the Speed signal - which model 3's only send when the car is 'on' - meaning after you press the brake pedal. Does that help?


----------



## Conv90

amund7 said:


> This signal was meant to live in the Speed tab, and is created by the Speed signal - which model 3's only send when the car is 'on' - meaning after you press the brake pedal. Does that help?


Thanks! I only saw it once . I'm away from the car so I can't check now. I'll let you know. But I'm sure that on "Speed"Tab I have only SOC, Cell Temp Mid and Speed (and if reached, the 0-50 0-60 0-100....)


----------



## amund7

Conv90 said:


> Thanks! I only saw it once . I'm away from the car so I can't check now. I'll let you know. But I'm sure that on "Speed"Tab I have only SOC, Cell Temp Mid and Speed (and if reached, the 0-50 0-60 0-100....)


When it was introduced a few versions ago, the app should have recreated that tab automatically (factory reset this tab) when upgrading. Maybe it didn't work... or you skipped that version  But try wrench menu -> factory reset this tab, when you're in that tab.


----------



## Conv90

Thanks!


----------



## amund7

JWardell said:


> It's time to bring up an annoying issue that prevents me from using ScanMyTesla _most_ of the time. It is rarely able to connect to the OBDLink LX. I plugged it in permanently a month or so ago, and I think only a day or two was I able to successfully use the app.
> I thought this might be caused by the OBDlink being powered for hours not connected to any phone (while it charges, or parked in sentry), but today I made very sure to wake the car with the phone next to the car and it still would not connect. I can hold down the button to place it in blinking pairing mode, and select it from within the bluetooth devices, but the app still fails to connect. Then sometimes randomly it will work.
> I'm kind of leaning toward the being an OBDlink issue, but I welcome your thoughts, does anyone else have trouble connecting?


Sorry J, I missed this post completely.

The OBDLinks have a way of hanging - I've been on OBDLink for at least 2 if not 3 years trying to make them fix it. They listen, but never actually do anything about it. At first I thought my app had a bug, and I've spent countless hours trying to fix it. Finally I realized that any app you connect with (for instance BlueTerm), apps will get a connection, you can type to it, but it is completely dead, not even echo works. No response from any commands.

Usually, for me, this happens very rarely, like once a month or less I think. And my app is running in the car 24/7. But, it always hangs after 10-20-30 minutes of doing CAN DUMP (which is basically running STMA = no filters). So I think either memory leak in the OBDLink firmware, or a temperature issue.

Only cure is to unplug/replug the adapter. (Could add a switch if your adapter is well hidden?)


----------



## JWardell

amund7 said:


> Sorry J, I missed this post completely.
> 
> The OBDLinks have a way of hanging - I've been on OBDLink for at least 2 if not 3 years trying to make them fix it. They listen, but never actually do anything about it. At first I thought my app had a bug, and I've spent countless hours trying to fix it. Finally I realized that any app you connect with (for instance BlueTerm), apps will get a connection, you can type to it, but it is completely dead, not even echo works. No response from any commands.
> 
> Usually, for me, this happens very rarely, like once a month or less I think. And my app is running in the car 24/7. But, it always hangs after 10-20-30 minutes of doing CAN DUMP (which is basically running STMA = no filters). So I think either memory leak in the OBDLink firmware, or a temperature issue.
> 
> Only cure is to unplug/replug the adapter. (Could add a switch if your adapter is well hidden?)


Yes, I've determined it is definitely the OBDlink. And it doesn't help that it is rarely powering down. I would add a switch...if I were ever to permanently install anything, but of course I keep switching out all my different hardware and cables plugged back there.
I also have an MX+ on the way, perhaps that will change things.


----------



## amund7

JWardell said:


> I also have an MX+ on the way, perhaps that will change things.


Nope, I have MX, LX and MX+, they all have the same bug.


----------



## scottf200

amund7 said:


> Have you guys tried my UDPLogger for plotting? https://github.com/amund7/UDPLogger/releases
> Super easy to use (if you read the instructions on how to zoom and scroll), and is customized to read Scan My Tesla CSV files. Can choose which signals to show.


I've had mixed luck with it. It also doesn't allow a Left Y axis scale on one set of values and a Right Y axis on another set of values. 
DatPlot also lets you create event lines and intersecting values to annotate something. Example below with range and temp on left Y axis and firmware on the right Y axis. Event line shows where FW 2019.40.2.1 started.
DatPlot also lets you create multiple panes (stack and separate graphic screens) if the Left Y axis and Right Y axis is not enough. Example in video on this page: (http://www.datplot.com/features/ )
HTH explain.


----------



## joverdijk

JWardell said:


> Yes, I've determined it is definitely the OBDlink. And it doesn't help that it is rarely powering down. I would add a switch...if I were ever to permanently install anything, but of course I keep switching out all my different hardware and cables plugged back there.
> I also have an MX+ on the way, perhaps that will change things.


I have OBDLink LX and same issue. 
However, since I've crontab'ed a script that turns sentry off for 1 hour somewhere early in the morning and then back on, the car gets a little sleep and 12V powerdown, which resets the OBDlink daily.
Good alternative for a hardware powerflip, and it's been working quite well, now rarely have to unplug/replug. Scanmytesla on 24x7, have a dedicated androidphone with a dataplan which i leave in the car....


----------



## derotam

So I am just wondering about the Coolant flow rates... Battery Flow, Powertrain Flow... I am sure it is because I have not been looking at this long enough to be in a scenario for those two values to diverge, but can someone tell me if they have seen them diverge. I have only ever seen them both read the EXACT same value which just bothers me.


----------



## michi84

The flow rates are the same as long as the cooling system is running in series mode (battery and motors/inverters on the same cooling loop). As soon as the system switches into parallel mode (battery and powertrain loops separated), the flow rates diverge depending on the cooling demands of the separate loops. 

In winter, the only time you will typically see parallel mode is during supercharging when the battery gets warm enough to need active cooling. During driving, both battery and powertrain are cooled via the radiator to maintain about 30-32°C cell temperature. The amount of coolant flowing through the radiator is regulated with the five-way-valve in the "superbottle", the app shows that as "Radiator bypass". 

In warm weather, the system switches into parallel mode once about 30°C are reached and cooling via the radiator is insufficient to maintain cell temperature. In parallel mode, the battery will slowly heat up until the threshold for active cooling via the chiller on the A/C system is reached.


----------



## Conv90

amund7 said:


> Nope, I have MX, LX and MX+, they all have the same bug.


@amund7 . 
is there a way that Tesla in a remote way can detect the cable/dongle while I'm using Scan My Tesla? 
I need to go to Tesla service for a small problem on my Model 3. (no software related)
Is it reccommended to remove the cable and the OBDLink LX to restore the original configuration? Or Tesla can consider the warranty no more valid?


----------



## amund7

Conv90 said:


> @amund7 .
> is there a way that Tesla in a remote way can detect the cable/dongle while I'm using Scan My Tesla?
> I need to go to Tesla service for a small problem on my Model 3. (no software related)
> Is it reccommended to remove the cable and the OBDLink LX to restore the original configuration? Or Tesla can consider the warranty no more valid?


Oh I can't tell you what to do, you will have to form your own opinion  On the S I always removed the stuff when Tesla got the car, just to avoid any hassle or discussion. Also, they themselves plug into that plug when doing diagnosticts (I think). However with the 3, if your dongle is hidden, there shouldn't be a way to detect it.

If you're having problems with the car that could be coming from canbus / comms errors, I would of course remove the un-original wiring harness, both as a step in troubleshooting, but also as it could be an easy thing for Tesla to put the blame on (as it is an un-original part in the car). They loved to blame my 3rd party wheels (with stock dimensions and tires) whenever I had steering or suspension issues on the S...


----------



## JWardell

Conv90 said:


> @amund7 .
> is there a way that Tesla in a remote way can detect the cable/dongle while I'm using Scan My Tesla?
> I need to go to Tesla service for a small problem on my Model 3. (no software related)
> Is it reccommended to remove the cable and the OBDLink LX to restore the original configuration? Or Tesla can consider the warranty no more valid?


I would strongly encourage you to remove the whole harness whenever you have service.
No, they can't detect it remotely, but they certainly can see it in person. Do you really want to take the chance they blame whatever issues on whatever they find, even if it has nothing to do with it? Not worth the hassle.
More importantly, the less Tesla sees these, the less likely they are to block them in the future. I really don't want to spend all my spare time keeping up with their changes, and that's just in software. They have already changed the connector once.


----------



## Conv90

amund7 said:


> Oh I can't tell you what to do, you will have to form your own opinion  On the S I always removed the stuff when Tesla got the car, just to avoid any hassle or discussion. Also, they themselves plug into that plug when doing diagnosticts (I think). However with the 3, if your dongle is hidden, there shouldn't be a way to detect it.
> 
> If you're having problems with the car that could be coming from canbus / comms errors, I would of course remove the un-original wiring harness, both as a step in troubleshooting, but also as it could be an easy thing for Tesla to put the blame on (as it is an un-original part in the car). They loved to blame my 3rd party wheels (with stock dimensions and tires) whenever I had steering or suspension issues on the S...





JWardell said:


> I would strongly encourage you to remove the whole harness whenever you have service.
> *No, they can't detect it remotely,* but they certainly can see it in person. Do you really want to take the chance they blame whatever issues on whatever they find, even if it has nothing to do with it? Not worth the hassle.
> More importantly, the less Tesla sees these, the less likely they are to block them in the future. I really don't want to spend all my spare time keeping up with their changes, and that's just in software. They have already changed the connector once.


Thanks, Yes the main question was if they can detect the whole un-original combo and if it's in use (on Tesla's ears..) while I'm enjoying SMT. I was sure they can't but now i feel better.
I removed the harness just to be sure.
The next question is if they can remotely detect when an external command is set via extarnal app via canbus transmitting with an OBD adapter .


----------



## R1Fast

I'm using SMT with an OBDLink LX and after 2-3 days of normal use, the BT connection to the LX seems to fail (stalls on "Initializing Adapter" in the app). It works fine again if I physically hold the pairing button in on the LX and re-pair to phone, but that's a pain since I stow the OBDLink behind the plastic trim above the OBD plug (e.g. rear bottom of center console). Every time it stops working I have to pull the trim off and reset. I've already had Amazon send a replacement OBDLink LX and it suffers from this as well.

Edit: Disregard - not sure why I didn't find results the first time I searched the thread but I see now this (or similar) is a common issue with the OBDLink LX.

What OBD module in the $40-50 range works WELL without these frequent hangs/disconnects?


----------



## dsgerbc

Conv90 said:


> The next question is if they can remotely detect when an external command is set via extarnal app via canbus transmitting with an OBD adapter .


I guess we'll know soon enough if warranties of all those people who tried the 'M3 Unlocked' app get their warranties voided. 
I doubt Tesla has enough redundancy to log/save all packets that cause errors with enough precision to tell that a rouge message originated not at one of their sensors.


----------



## JWardell

Conv90 said:


> Thanks, Yes the main question was if they can detect the whole un-original combo and if it's in use (on Tesla's ears..) while I'm enjoying SMT. I was sure they can't but now i feel better.
> I removed the harness just to be sure.
> The next question is if they can remotely detect when an external command is set via extarnal app via canbus transmitting with an OBD adapter .


it is possible or , especially if you generate errors. Tesla can log and look at errors from all over the car. But I haven't seen any reports of them doing that without first contacting service to look at something.
I was certainly very careful not to do anything to cause errors but I inevitably did just shorting the bus out a few times, and certainly this month since I have been triggering traction control which generates a bunch of errors. No issues yet. And MountainPass has been working on their party box for nearly a year and not had an issue.
I am always careful to make sure I clear all the errors before I park the car though.


----------



## Conv90

JWardell said:


> it is possible or , especially if you generate errors. Tesla can log and look at errors from all over the car. But I haven't seen any reports of them doing that without first contacting service to look at something.
> I was certainly very careful not to do anything to cause errors but I inevitably did just shorting the bus out a few times, and certainly this month since I have been triggering traction control which generates a bunch of errors. No issues yet. And MountainPass has been working on their party box for nearly a year and not had an issue.
> I am always careful to make sure I clear all the errors before I park the car though.


How to clear the errors before to park the car?


----------



## Conv90

R1Fast said:


> I'm using SMT with an OBDLink LX and after 2-3 days of normal use, the BT connection to the LX seems to fail (stalls on "Initializing Adapter" in the app). It works fine again if I physically hold the pairing button in on the LX and re-pair to phone, but that's a pain since I stow the OBDLink behind the plastic trim above the OBD plug (e.g. rear bottom of center console). Every time it stops working I have to pull the trim off and reset. I've already had Amazon send a replacement OBDLink LX and it suffers from this as well.
> 
> Edit: Disregard - not sure why I didn't find results the first time I searched the thread but I see now this (or similar) is a common issue with the OBDLink LX.
> 
> What OBD module in the $40-50 range works WELL without these frequent hangs/disconnects?


I have the OBDLink LX and I never had the problem after I developed the practice to use Sentry mode for about 6-8 hours a day and no Sentry mode for the remaining 16-18 hours .


----------



## derotam

Ok, got a question about Max Regen Power. So in my LR RWD, this seems to max out at 85kW, but the most I have been able to actually get is about 66kW with the in car visualization of the green bar getting to the left side of the N. Anyone know or have a theory as to whether the other 19kW is accessible by me in an LR RWD vehicle under some specific scenario? Since dyno mode is out now, has anyone put it into dyno mode and see if they can get that max? Perhaps traction control or something else is limiting it?


----------



## JWardell

Conv90 said:


> How to clear the errors before to park the car?


Stop, open the door, step out. Then gat back in, sit and hit the brake so it re-initializes for driving. That at least clears all the errors caused by traction control/Dyno Mode/etc.


----------



## Conv90

JWardell said:


> Stop, open the door, step out. Then gat back in, sit and hit the brake so it re-initializes for driving. That at least clears all the errors caused by traction control/Dyno Mode/etc.


OK, it's simple clearng the errors on car. I was thinking/asking to a deep clearing on the memory also , like clearing an error Log History.


----------



## Conv90

derotam said:


> Ok, got a question about Max Regen Power. So in my LR RWD, this seems to max out at 85kW, but the most I have been able to actually get is about 66kW with the in car visualization of the green bar getting to the left side of the N. Anyone know or have a theory as to whether the other 19kW is accessible by me in an LR RWD vehicle under some specific scenario? Since dyno mode is out now, has anyone put it into dyno mode and see if they can get that max? Perhaps traction control or something else is limiting it?


On my LR AWD the max regen reached is 76 kW, on max allowed 85.


----------



## derotam

Hey @amund7 have you made any progress with the HVAC values that were removed from the app? Also the battery power/rear motor power discrepancy while preconditioning? Sorry to bother, those are a couple things that I use or would like to use a lot and the discrepancy is annoying to see.


----------



## JWardell

derotam said:


> Hey @amund7 have you made any progress with the HVAC values that were removed from the app? Also the battery power/rear motor power discrepancy while preconditioning? Sorry to bother, those are a couple things that I use or would like to use a lot and the discrepancy is annoying to see.


What power discrepancy? You can always log everything and look at them and many other signals closer on a computer. Let me know what else you are looking for.


----------



## derotam

JWardell said:


> What power discrepancy? You can always log everything and look at them and many other signals closer on a computer. Let me know what else you are looking for.


Sorry, before I started watching this thread I had emailed amund7 about some things. So here is what I had written to him.. "What I am seeing is at ~50mph(could be a range), with preconditioning on via routing to a supercharger, I am seeing the R power level about ~3kW higher than Battery power "

I did send him a log file that shows it.

Edit: Attached log file. i had to change the extension for it to upload, it is a csv file. I did turn on and off preconditioning while driving to show the effect.


----------



## R1Fast

R1Fast said:


> I'm using SMT with an OBDLink LX and after 2-3 days of normal use, the BT connection to the LX seems to fail....Every time it stops working I have to pull the trim off and reset.
> 
> Edit: not sure why I didn't find results the first time I searched the thread but I see now this (or similar) is a common issue with the OBDLink LX.
> 
> What OBD module in the $40-50 range works WELL without these frequent hangs/disconnects?


So the sleep commands didn't work. 3 days later and the LX stopped connecting again.

So back to my question. What other OBD module has the same packet rates and DOESN'T suffer from sleep issues?


----------



## JWardell

derotam said:


> Sorry, before I started watching this thread I had emailed amund7 about some things. So here is what I had written to him.. "What I am seeing is at ~50mph(could be a range), with preconditioning on via routing to a supercharger, I am seeing the R power level about ~3kW higher than Battery power "
> 
> I did send him a log file that shows it.
> 
> Edit: Attached log file. i had to change the extension for it to upload, it is a csv file. I did turn on and off preconditioning while driving to show the effect.


That makes sense, the rear inverter produces an extra 3kW of waste heat to warm the battery the last few miles before the supercharger. You can see that in the data with not just battery current but waste heat demand. Same as when you precondition your car and it makes the same 3kW to heat the battery.


----------



## derotam

JWardell said:


> That makes sense, the rear inverter produces an extra 3kW of waste heat to warm the battery the last few miles before the supercharger. You can see that in the data with not just battery current but waste heat demand. Same as when you precondition your car and it makes the same 3kW to heat the battery.


Yes, but that 3kW should be accounted for in Battery Power right? Battery Power should be accounting for all power usage right? The motor produces 3kW of waste heat, but it has to get that 3kW from the battery to do it.


----------



## JWardell

derotam said:


> Yes, but that 3kW should be accounted for in Battery Power right? Battery Power should be accounting for all power usage right? The motor produces 3kW of waste heat, but it has to get that 3kW from the battery to do it.


When not plugged in. Otherwise it will pull from the wall charger.


----------



## derotam

JWardell said:


> When not plugged in. Otherwise it will pull from the wall charger.


Exactly, this was recorded while driving.


----------



## dsgerbc

R1Fast said:


> So the sleep commands didn't work. 3 days later and the LX stopped connecting again.
> 
> So back to my question. What other OBD module has the same packet rates and DOESN'T suffer from sleep issues?


Mine started doing this as well.
What sleep commands have you use? I'd like to try those..

Someone mention a crontab script, is it available somewhere? I could probably stuff it into my RaspberryPi.

And I'd also like to know if there are other fast OBD adapters that work w/o hanging.


----------



## dsgerbc

Is there a way to add more sensor signals to this app? I see that wheel speed sensor signals have been identified, but I don't see them in available sensors?


----------



## amund7

dsgerbc said:


> Is there a way to add more sensor signals to this app? I see that wheel speed sensor signals have been identified, but I don't see them in available sensors?


You can't, but I am open for suggestions, and what's great for me is if you do a bit of validation first, when you find something that you'd like to add:

1. Make a CAN dump when you drive
2. Import that dump into Canbus Analyzer or other canbus software
3. Check that the signals actually work, today, on a current firmware, with our connections
4. Send me those results, including the exact defintions of the signals. It's very quick for me to add to the next release of the app.

We have wheel speeds (actually, 2 sets, 1 for classic and one for "later") Model S and X. I see you have Model 3, but never heard of them being found there, at least not on "our" bus (powertrain bus). If you have found these, please run them through the list and send them to me.


----------



## dsgerbc

amund7 said:


> You can't, but I am open for suggestions, and what's great for me is if you do a bit of validation first, when you find something that you'd like to add:
> 
> 1. Make a CAN dump when you drive
> 2. Import that dump into Canbus Analyzer or other canbus software
> 3. Check that the signals actually work, today, on a current firmware, with our connections
> 4. Send me those results, including the exact defintions of the signals. It's very quick for me to add to the next release of the app.
> 
> We have wheel speeds (actually, 2 sets, 1 for classic and one for "later") Model S and X. I see you have Model 3, but never heard of them being found there, at least not on "our" bus (powertrain bus). If you have found these, please run them through the list and send them to me.


Thanks for replying.

I'm new to this, and I was just looking through what seems to be available on JWardell 's DBC list.
Wheel sensors seem to be on Chassis CAN. I guess that's not accessible via this app?

I'll still play with a CAN dump though while generating some wheel spin via dyno mode. Maybe I'll get lucky.


----------



## amund7

dsgerbc said:


> Thanks for replying.
> 
> I'm new to this, and I was just looking through what seems to be available on JWardell 's DBC list.
> Wheel sensors seem to be on Chassis CAN. I guess that's not accessible via this app?
> 
> I'll still play with a CAN dump though while generating some wheel spin via dyno mode. Maybe I'll get lucky.


Correct, that's a different bus. The app and adapter could theoretically get other buses if the wiring harness is rewired/connected to other pins. But then the app wouldn't understand anything. You could do CAN dumps and analyze with a DBC file for the correct bus, but it hasn't been discussed much, all the way since the beginning with Model S the 'powertrain' bus was sort of agreed upon by the community to be the 'most interesting.'

If you want to dig into it, you could have a look at Comma Cabana and Panda. The Panda can capture several buses simultaneously, 3 I think, and they have a DBC file for a different bus that they care about (with steering and other controls). I tested the Comma Panda, but it doesn't support canbus over ELM327, at all. And I suppose ELM327 wouldn't support multiple buses anyways.


----------



## Bandit

It seems most of you indicate that your OBD adapter powers down when the car sleeps. Do you leave them connected all the time? 

I noticed quite a bit of battery drain leaving it connected so investigated and found that my car will not sleep as long as the MX+ is connected. I did some basic testing to confirm at home today (no Sentry mode). I left the car alone for 4 hours and checked on its state using the 'vehicles' API call (which itself does not wake the car) and I found it reported awake the entire time. I went out, disconnected the MX+ and after half an hour the API call started to report the car is asleep.

Any suggestions? Thanks!


----------



## JWardell

Bandit said:


> It seems most of you indicate that your OBD adapter powers down when the car sleeps. Do you leave them connected all the time?
> 
> I noticed quite a bit of battery drain leaving it connected so investigated and found that my car will not sleep as long as the MX+ is connected. I did some basic testing to confirm at home today (no Sentry mode). I left the car alone for 4 hours and checked on its state using the 'vehicles' API call (which itself does not wake the car) and I found it reported awake the entire time. I went out, disconnected the MX+ and after half an hour the API call started to report the car is asleep.
> 
> Any suggestions? Thanks!


I would be very surprised if the OBDlink was preventing the car from sleeping. It only draws a tiny amount of power, and should be on the accessory power line that turns off when the car goes to sleep.
Are you sure you don't have a 3rd party Tesla app polling the car, or sentry mode, or summon standby on?
The only way I can see this happening is if the OBDlink was somehow transmitting packets on the CAN bus that was keeping the car awake. That would be bad. I don't know of any apps that configure it to transmit.


----------



## Bandit

JWardell said:


> I would be very surprised if the OBDlink was preventing the car from sleeping. It only draws a tiny amount of power, and should be on the accessory power line that turns off when the car goes to sleep.
> Are you sure you don't have a 3rd party Tesla app polling the car, or sentry mode, or summon standby on?
> The only way I can see this happening is if the OBDlink was somehow transmitting packets on the CAN bus that was keeping the car awake. That would be bad. I don't know of any apps that configure it to transmit.


That's the thing! I agree that those should be the only things that keep the car awake but I've been paying attention to this for weeks trying to figure it out. No polling apps (I was making a direct API call to the vehicles endpoint strictly to check on this), no Sentry at home (confirmed icon), and summon standby disabled as soon as it became an option.

Other thoughts: when I returned to my car after 4 hours to remove the OBDLink, I first opened SMT from outside the car to confirm it was still on and working. (I could see 0.22kW battery power but obviously that's not strictly the OBDLink.) I'm using the HRN-CT20T1 wiring harness from GPS Tracking Canada. Older (2018) version. Anyone else using the same setup without insomnia?


----------



## eagleco

Bandit said:


> I'm using the HRN-CT20T1 wiring harness from GPS Tracking Canada. Older (2018) version. Anyone else using the same setup without insomnia?


I have an OBDLink LX plugged into the same HRN-CT20T1 harness and my car goes to sleep fine at home.


----------



## amund7

IOS version out for TestFlight!

https://testflight.apple.com/join/Xra3qrlo


----------



## JWardell

amund7 said:


> IOS version out for TestFlight!
> 
> https://testflight.apple.com/join/Xra3qrlo


Nice! Does it do logging yet? Now I have a good reason to leave the house!


----------



## amund7

JWardell said:


> Nice! Does it do logging yet? Now I have a good reason to leave the house!


No logs yet. But do have a look!


----------



## Rush

amund7 said:


> IOS version out for TestFlight!
> 
> https://testflight.apple.com/join/Xra3qrlo


Can I use the OBDII from EMDS? My Iphone x says OBDII not supported, but it works fine on my android.
Also it seems as if the text is cut off by the round corners of the screen and the top camera area of the iphone x.


----------



## jdcollins5

amund7 said:


> IOS version out for TestFlight!
> 
> https://testflight.apple.com/join/Xra3qrlo


I just tried out your Beta TestFlight version and SOC, Rear Motor KW and Battery KW displayed and updated as I drove around the block. Nice.


----------



## Rush

jdcollins5 said:


> I just tried out your Beta TestFlight version and SOC, Rear Motor KW and Battery KW displayed and updated as I drove around the block. Nice.


What OBD reader are you using? I've tried it with the German one from https://www.e-mobility-driving-solutions.com/ and get the erro message on my Iphone x 'OBDII not supported'


----------



## jdcollins5

Rush said:


> What OBD reader are you using? I've tried it with the German one from https://www.e-mobility-driving-solutions.com/ and get the erro message on my Iphone x 'OBDII not supported'


I am using the OBDLink MX+. That is the only one that is compatible with Apple iOS that I am aware of.


----------



## bwilson4web

Hi,

I have the not recognized bluetooth, OBD. I will followup with e-mail.

Std Rng Plus Model 3 - Version 2020 8.1
iPhone (MNAJ2LL/A) iPhone 7 - Software 13.3.1
ScanMyTesla - 2.0.0 (9)

The "Mini-OBDII" that came with the wiring harness continues to work with the Android.

NOTE: After upgrade to 2020.8.1, the OBDII failed to connect. But while debugging, it was unplugged long enough to get the OBD to restart and run.

Bob Wilson


----------



## Rush

jdcollins5 said:


> I am using the OBDLink MX+. That is the only one that is compatible with Apple iOS that I am aware of.


Thanks, I guess I'll just stay with the EMDS android OBDII since it is up and running on my Galaxy Tab A. It would have been nice to get it on my iphone also...


----------



## amund7

IOS version is out!

https://apps.apple.com/us/app/scan-my-tesla/id1503080791?ls=1

Please note, you MUST have an OBDLINK MX+ adapter for this app to work. It might support general BLE adapters in the future if I can make it, but it doesn't for now.


----------



## Rush

amund7 said:


> IOS version is out!
> 
> https://apps.apple.com/us/app/scan-my-tesla/id1503080791?ls=1
> 
> Please note, you MUST have an OBDLINK MX+ adapter for this app to work. It might support general BLE adapters in the future if I can make it, but it doesn't for now.


Right, I tried it with the testflight version and it told me that the BLE I had was not compatible, so I've been using the Android one (for the few times I've been drving in the past month...)


----------



## bwilson4web

amund7 said:


> Please note, you MUST have an OBDLINK MX+ adapter for this app to work. It might support general BLE adapters in the future if I can make it, but it doesn't for now.


Ouch! I bought a Samsung Tab A, Android tablet to work with the OBD device that came with the wiring harness. My other OBD device that works with the iPhone uses WiFi with iPhone based, BimmerCode, for my BMW i3-REx.

Now if I could just find a way to trade my Samsung Tab A for an OBDLINK MX+ and take a loss on the Android software.

Bob Wilson


----------



## Gadgetb

Rush said:


> Right, I tried it with the testflight version and it told me that the BLE I had was not compatible, so I've been using the Android one (for the few times I've been drving in the past month...)


----------



## Gadgetb

I have been using the Android ver Scan my Tesla, Great to see a IOS ver. out. Please add support for VEEPeakODB Check BLE, which works with IOS and my TM-Spy App, I can test for you if you want.


----------



## JWardell

amund7 said:


> IOS version is out!
> 
> https://apps.apple.com/us/app/scan-my-tesla/id1503080791?ls=1
> 
> Please note, you MUST have an OBDLINK MX+ adapter for this app to work. It might support general BLE adapters in the future if I can make it, but it doesn't for now.


Excellent! The last few betas have been working. Not that I am driving much to test anything


----------



## bwilson4web

The 'Mini OBDII that came with the wiring package 'gave up the ghost.' The red, 'heart beat' LED failed to come on when plugged into our backup car. So I've order "OBDLink MX+" which should be here in a week or so. Happily, I had Amazon credits so the out of pocket is about 50% off.

Bob Wilson


----------



## bwilson4web

I received my OBDLink MX+ and got both my iPhone and Android to connect via Bluetooth. But the OBDLink App on either would not connect which is necessary to download the most recent firmware:

Error: Connected to the scan tool but unable to connect to the vehicle.
App Version: 5.9.0.0
System Name: Android
System Version: 9
Model: SM-T510

Device: OBDLink MX+ r2.0 Firmware: STN2255 v5.0.0 [2019.07.25] Mfr: ScanTool.net LLC Serial #: 225510216406 BL Ver: 3.6 IC ID/Rev: 0x0210, 0x1BC8, 0x4003 BT Modem: BT33LT, R11, 170412P_Scantool IDPS, 00043E969CB5, 020000 BT Dev Name: OBDLink MX+ 16406 Init Date: 2019.12.27 POR Count: 17 POR Time: 0 days 00:05:36 Tot Run Time: 0 days 00:43 Eng Cranks: 0 Eng Starts: 0

. . . . .

Error: Connected to the scan tool but unable to connect to the vehicle.
App Version: 5.9.0.1093
System Name: iOS
System Version: 13.4.1
Model: iPhone 7

Device: OBDLink MX+ r2.0 Firmware: STN2255 v5.0.0 [2019.07.25] Mfr: ScanTool.net LLC Serial #: 225510216406 BL Ver: 3.6 IC ID/Rev: 0x0210, 0x1BC8, 0x4003 BT Modem: BT33LT, R11, 170412P_Scantool IDPS, 00043E969CB5, 020000 BT Dev Name: OBDLink MX+ 16406 Init Date: 2019.12.27 POR Count: 16 POR Time: 0 days 00:01:34 Tot Run Time: 0 days 00:28 Eng Cranks: 0 Eng Starts: 0

I'm going to try again but use WiFi instead of Bluetooth. If the firmware problem is in the Bluetooth stack, WiFi may provide a 'backdoor' to get it fixed. <GERRRRR>

WiFi did not beacon,

Bob Wilson


----------



## msjulie

@bwilson4web Hey Bob - I just installed mine in my car and the same 'error' comes up but ignore it; it's the app saying it doesn't understand the car. I was able to update the firmware in my MX+ with the app and scan my tesla (iOS) is working!


----------



## bwilson4web

Curious, I did not try ‘Scan My Tesla’ after the problem. I’ll try it later.

Bob Wilson


----------



## bwilson4web

I've opened a support case and am exchanging e-mails. I also forwarded videos to OBDLink:

BMW i3-REx
Tesla "Scan My Tesla" hookup
UPDATE:

I updated the firmware and reconnected the Bluetooth. Bluetooth connectivity has worked perfectly. It is connecting to the Std Rng Plus Model 3 that continues to fail.

I created this YouTube showing how I manually tested each OBD protocol:





The original video show each of the protocols failing to connect to the car which is in "D" on the driveway. I only showed the first protocol tested to show how I tested each.

Bob Wilson


----------



## JWardell

bwilson4web said:


> I received my OBDLink MX+ and got both my iPhone and Android to connect via Bluetooth. But the OBDLink App on either would not connect which is necessary to download the most recent firmware:
> 
> Error: Connected to the scan tool but unable to connect to the vehicle.
> App Version: 5.9.0.0
> System Name: Android
> System Version: 9
> Model: SM-T510
> 
> Device: OBDLink MX+ r2.0 Firmware: STN2255 v5.0.0 [2019.07.25] Mfr: ScanTool.net LLC Serial #: 225510216406 BL Ver: 3.6 IC ID/Rev: 0x0210, 0x1BC8, 0x4003 BT Modem: BT33LT, R11, 170412P_Scantool IDPS, 00043E969CB5, 020000 BT Dev Name: OBDLink MX+ 16406 Init Date: 2019.12.27 POR Count: 17 POR Time: 0 days 00:05:36 Tot Run Time: 0 days 00:43 Eng Cranks: 0 Eng Starts: 0
> 
> . . . . .
> 
> Error: Connected to the scan tool but unable to connect to the vehicle.
> App Version: 5.9.0.1093
> System Name: iOS
> System Version: 13.4.1
> Model: iPhone 7
> 
> Device: OBDLink MX+ r2.0 Firmware: STN2255 v5.0.0 [2019.07.25] Mfr: ScanTool.net LLC Serial #: 225510216406 BL Ver: 3.6 IC ID/Rev: 0x0210, 0x1BC8, 0x4003 BT Modem: BT33LT, R11, 170412P_Scantool IDPS, 00043E969CB5, 020000 BT Dev Name: OBDLink MX+ 16406 Init Date: 2019.12.27 POR Count: 16 POR Time: 0 days 00:01:34 Tot Run Time: 0 days 00:28 Eng Cranks: 0 Eng Starts: 0
> 
> I'm going to try again but use WiFi instead of Bluetooth. If the firmware problem is in the Bluetooth stack, WiFi may provide a 'backdoor' to get it fixed. <GERRRRR>
> 
> WiFi did not beacon,
> 
> Bob Wilson


Nothing is wrong there. As it says, the OBDLink app has successfully connected to the OBDlink scan tool. You can then update the firmware.
The car does not have anything connected to the OBD pins, so there is no data for this or any other OBD app to talk to the vehicle.
Only apps specifically made to reconfigure the OBDlink to talk to a Tesla's can bus will actually be able to read data from the car.
So yes, after updating firmware, switch to Scan My Tesla and it should work!


----------



## bwilson4web

JWardell said:


> So yes, after updating firmware,


That is where it stopped. It would not update the firmware. Still, not a problem. I'll keep working with the vendor and see what happens. Worse come to worse, ship it back to them and let them update the software.

Bob Wilson


----------



## JWardell

bwilson4web said:


> That is where it stopped. It would not update the firmware. Still, not a problem. I'll keep working with the vendor and see what happens. Worse come to worse, ship it back to them and let them update the software.
> 
> Bob Wilson


Sometimes you have to pull out the OBDlink and reset your phone's bluetooth and then plug it all back, I know I have had to make several attempts in the past to update the firmware.


----------



## amund7

But do you have to update the firmware before using it? I have a 10+ years old OBDLINK MX that Scan My Tesla started development on, and only the last few years I discovered that they have firmware updates... And that I needed to borrow someonce gas car to update it. I also reported that to OBDLINK, I can't think of any valid reason why the obdlink should need an OBD protocol connection to update the firmware.

I also bricked two of my OBDLINK devices using a Huawei P20 pro, I knew it's bluetooth was a bit buggy as I could tell from my own app, but I didn't expect two bricked devices. Luckily, I could restore the firmware from the OBDLINK app, with a different phone (Lenovo P2). These are all things I find a bit strange if OBDLINK instructs everyone to update the firmware before using the device, it's not a straightforward task, and can go spectacularily wrong.


----------



## amund7

First beta of version 2.0 for Android is out!

New dashboards

Still beta, some functionalitiy is not yet complete:
- Welcome pages
- File recording
- Teslalogger integration
- Some menu items are redundant, or missing
- Settings are not working the same across both old and new UI

Please report any crashes, and overall usability and understandability
https://play.google.com/apps/testing/com.emon.canbus.tesla
You can also try the UI demo app, this just plays back a log, but will give you an impression of how the UI looks and feels.
https://play.google.com/a…/testing/com.emon.canbus.teslademo


----------



## bwilson4web

Good news

It works. Apparently the ‘Scan My Tesla’ application interface is not what is in the OBDLink App.

Bad news

There are some undiagnosed issues with the Android version of Scan My Tesla. A work in progress, I’ll work with the vendor.

Bob Wilson


----------



## dance.parrot

I am running Android beta 2 and find the new screen design great. I wish it was possible to customize some settings of the dials, for example, to have the battery power with only one dial (as opposed with front and rear torque), and choose the color of the dial after specific values. The customization UI does not have to be in the app, it could even be an XML file that I create on my computer, or something similar.

I get an error sometimes after the tablet wakes up from sleep with the app loaded - see details:







Apologies if this is not the place to report the error.


----------



## amund7

bwilson4web said:


> Good news
> It works. Apparently the 'Scan My Tesla' application interface is not what is in the OBDLink App.
> Bad news
> There are some undiagnosed issues with the Android version of Scan My Tesla. A work in progress, I'll work with the vendor.
> Bob Wilson


Hi Bob, glad to hear you got it working.
Which issues are you pointing at here, and do you mean the new beta version? That has some issues yes. I've been running it every day in my car for a while, and I discovered, if the app runs one of the new dashboards while the car is asleep, when you wake the car again, the obd2 adapter reconnects nicely, but the CAN filters are not set correctly, and it seems to recieve no data, until you flip to another dashboard and back. I've discovered this happens on the first start of the app too. I have an idea where to look and I will fix it soon. Otherwise it seems to be running pretty smoothly, actually a lot smoother than the IOS version on my (admittedly super old) Ipad, and except for the already listed missing features.



dance.parrot said:


> I am running Android beta 2 and find the new screen design great. I wish it was possible to customize some settings of the dials, for example, to have the battery power with only one dial (as opposed with front and rear torque), and choose the color of the dial after specific values. The customization UI does not have to be in the app, it could even be an XML file that I create on my computer, or something similar.
> 
> I get an error sometimes after the tablet wakes up from sleep with the app loaded - see details:
> View attachment 34033
> 
> Apologies if this is not the place to report the error.


Thank you!

Customization is coming - but it will be a big UI job to make it user friendly, and it is pushed a while down the list, bugs, crashes, connection bugs and missing features in (in both IOS and Android beta versions) have to come first.

This is absolutely the place to report errors. I've tried this scenario, but I don't get the error with any of my devices. Is it sleeping for a long time? App in foreground, or background? Something else I can try is to run your exact Android version in an emulator, which Android version do you have there, and which device?


----------



## dance.parrot

amund7 said:


> Customization is coming - but it will be a big UI job to make it user friendly, and it is pushed a while down the list, bugs, crashes, connection bugs and missing features in (in both IOS and Android beta versions) have to come first.


Understood. I'm happy to test out customization-related features if/when they become available.



amund7 said:


> This is absolutely the place to report errors. I've tried this scenario, but I don't get the error with any of my devices. Is it sleeping for a long time? App in foreground, or background? Something else I can try is to run your exact Android version in an emulator, which Android version do you have there, and which device?


For context, I have a Samsung Galaxy Tab A (8.0", 2019 - SM-T295), with Android version 9 (Kernel version 4.9.112-perf-17034026, #1 Fri Feb 28 2020, Build number PPR1.180610.011.T295XXS3ATB4).

I use AutomateIt, with 5 rules:
- When External power is disconnected from device -> Return to home screen
- When External power is disconnected from device -> Set screen timeout to 5 seconds
- When External power is connected to the device -> Start application (scan my tesla)
- When External power is connected to the device -> Set screen brightness to automatic mode
- When External power is connected to the device -> Set screen timeout to 5 minutes

I keep the USB power cable connected all the time. When the car goes to sleep, it triggers the power disconnected event, switches to home screen, and turns screen off after 5 seconds. When I open the car, power comes on, wakes the device up and starts Scan My Tesla. The idea is to not have to touch the tablet and to have the display come on and off automatically.

I think I first got the exception above the first time I opened the beta version. Then, I didn't get it for a while. Then I was getting it from time to time whenever I started the application.

Something else that is happening which might be related: When I start the app it shows the text log ending with Setting filters ..., but then the dashboard displays no values. If I swipe left to another screen, it re-sets the filters and information starts being populated - see video recording of this behaviour here: 
Tonight, I was able to replicate the duplicate key exception by:
1. Open Scan My Tesla, and leave it on the main dashboard, where no data was being populated
2. Switch to another app
3. Open Scan my Tesla

I replicated this 4-5 times, and then I wasn't able to replicate it anymore.

Let me know if you want me to run any specific tests.


----------



## amund7

dance.parrot said:


> Understood. I'm happy to test out customization-related features if/when they become available.
> 
> [...]
> 
> I replicated this 4-5 times, and then I wasn't able to replicate it anymore.
> 
> Let me know if you want me to run any specific tests.


Just follow the betas, I appreciate your detailed feedback. I am sure there will be constantly running betas going forward, many changes to come.

The bug with no data coming in on the first dashboard I have just discovered, mentioned in the previous post. The same also happens when the car slept and wakes up again with the app running (I leave my tablet screen on app running 24/7)


----------



## jdcollins5

I have just recently started using the SMT Apple version. I have been watching the Battery Capacity and Cell Voltage graph as Battery Capacity decreases. Can someone explain the relationship between Cell Voltage vs Battery % ?

From what I have found from Google for Model 3 75kWH battery:

Battery Voltage nominal = 350V
maximum = 400V

Cell voltage - Max = 4.2 = 100% SOC
Min = 2.5 = 0% SOC

Following the Battery % versus Cell Voltage as battery % decreases, I cannot see the relationship. It is definitely not linear and the minimum seems to be closer to 3.5V than 2.5V.

Can someone explain please?


----------



## Feathermerchant

It is not linear and it has several dependencies. Like load and charge rate. Under load the voltage drops, under charge the voltage rises. Immediately after load or charge, the voltage settles to a steady state over several minutes. Temperature also affects voltage. A more accurate way to measure charge state is to start at a known state and measure charge (kWh) or discharge kWh knowing the pack capacity in kWh. But the battery capacity declines over time and use. So all measures are really estimates. I think you'll find more detailed information in the Battery university.
https://batteryuniversity.com/


----------



## amund7

If you look at the cell voltages while driving (or, while someone else is driving preferably  ), you will see that the voltage is very bouncy, and 'sags' under load. Likewise it springs up with regen or supercharging. 
The cells have an absolute max limit (4.2 volts), and an absolute minimum, 2.5 sounds about right, but I can't remember the exact decimal.
When driving or charging, these limits still apply, which is why (or at least one reason why) charging is slower on top, and also why we lose max power at low SOC%.
I haven't tested this myself, but I think if you hammer it at 50%, and 20%, and super low like 5%, I think you should see that the cell voltage always stops at 2.5 volts, but at lower SOC there is less 'legroom' so to speak, as the voltage sag is proportional (but not necessarily linear) compared to the amps pulled (or pushed). You will see the same with the whole pack voltage, as that is just all the cell groups added together, and it is a signal we can read much faster so easier to see what's going on.

Also note that the resting voltage is not at all linear with SOC%, it is an S curve, steep at the ends and almost flat at around 3.8 volts for a very large span around 50%. This is the same with all lithium ion batteries, and one of the reasons it's very difficult to estimate correct SOC, and remaining capacity.


----------



## jdcollins5

amund7 said:


> If you look at the cell voltages while driving (or, while someone else is driving preferably  ), you will see that the voltage is very bouncy, and 'sags' under load. Likewise it springs up with regen or supercharging.
> The cells have an absolute max limit (4.2 volts), and an absolute minimum, 2.5 sounds about right, but I can't remember the exact decimal.
> When driving or charging, these limits still apply, which is why (or at least one reason why) charging is slower on top, and also why we lose max power at low SOC%.
> I haven't tested this myself, but I think if you hammer it at 50%, and 20%, and super low like 5%, I think you should see that the cell voltage always stops at 2.5 volts, but at lower SOC there is less 'legroom' so to speak, as the voltage sag is proportional (but not necessarily linear) compared to the amps pulled (or pushed). You will see the same with the whole pack voltage, as that is just all the cell groups added together, and it is a signal we can read much faster so easier to see what's going on.
> 
> Also note that the resting voltage is not at all linear with SOC%, it is an S curve, steep at the ends and almost flat at around 3.8 volts for a very large span around 50%. This is the same with all lithium ion batteries, and one of the reasons it's very difficult to estimate correct SOC, and remaining capacity.


Thanks @amund7! I will have to try watching the Cell Voltage while driving (or riding😀). I have only monitored the cell voltage either before or after driving.

I have looked at the charge and discharge curves for lithium-ion at Battery University that @Feathermerchant recommended. I can see the S-curves you are talking about. That helps in understanding.


----------



## Feathermerchant

Generally a battery can be modeled with a perfect voltage source (no resistance, capacitance, etc) in series with a resistor. So as current flows out of the battery ie discharging/driving you'll see voltage drop. Like when cranking an ICE car you'll see the lights dim. Similarly when charging you expect a voltage rise. When charging a lead acid battery the terminal voltage is typically 13-14V but when fully charged and sitting idle, you'll typically see a resting voltage of about 12.5V. 
For a LiIon battery you may not exceed 4.2V per cell or so without damage to the cell(s).


----------



## MrGoogle87_SR+M3

Hi. Am new here and came here because of ScanMyTeslaI was hoping if you guys can share what a “normal” cell imbalance would be under 30/20/10 and maybe even 5% SoC

i have bought the ScanMyTesla tool (ex car mechanic also) because our SR+ came with alot of missing rated-range (and didn’t dissapear after charging from low to 90 and every other charge habit suggested)

My SR+ is 9 months old currently and have been tracking with ScanMyTesla for some months now, my current imbalance is (at least) 86mV that I have seen when the car is resting after a long normal drive at low SoC (under 25% or so) and at higher SoC the imbalance is usually kind of low (4-12)

Tesla is not doing anything about it, nor do they know how rated range work, battery health is even secret, so asking them why isn’t helping...

If it is interesting, teslafi also lists my car as the worst SR+ (capacity wise) and we got it like that (new car).


----------



## MrWugz

MrGoogle87_SR+M3 said:


> Hi. Am new here and came here because of ScanMyTesla I was hoping if you guys can share what a "normal" cell imbalance would be under 30/20/10 and maybe even 5% SoC
> 
> i have bought the ScanMyTesla tool (ex car mechanic also) because our SR+ came with alot of missing rated-range (and didn't dissapear after charging from low to 90 and every other charge habit suggested)
> 
> My SR+ is 9 months old currently and have been tracking with ScanMyTesla for some months now, my current imbalance is (at least) 86mV that I have seen when the car is resting after a long normal drive at low SoC (under 25% or so) and at higher SoC the imbalance is usually kind of low (4-12)
> 
> Tesla is not doing anything about it, nor do they know how rated range work, battery health is even secret, so asking them why isn't helping...
> 
> If it is interesting, teslafi also lists my car as the worst SR+ (capacity wise) and we got it like that (new car).


86 mV imbalance at low SoC is rather concerning. Ideally all the bricks in the pack have the same amp-hour capacity, so when they're charged to 90% and voltage is balanced between them all it'll remain balanced as you discharge. If one or more of your car's bricks has a capacity shortage, it's voltage would drop faster than the others as you expended the battery, and the calculated range is based on the brick with the minimum voltage, possibly explaining your premature deterioration. The warranty covers 70% retention of battery capacity, so you still have a ways to go before this is a warranty issue unfortunately.

Here's a plot of my LR AWD's cell imbalance on a single drive going from 73% to 8%:



http://imgur.com/pa2r25C


Here's Bjorn showing a SR+ having 49.6 kWh nominal full pack (unknown how much degradation):


----------



## MrGoogle87_SR+M3

MrWugz said:


> 86 mV imbalance at low SoC is rather concerning. Ideally all the bricks in the pack have the same amp-hour capacity, so when they're charged to 90% and voltage is balanced between them all it'll remain balanced as you discharge. If one or more of your car's bricks has a capacity shortage, it's voltage would drop faster than the others as you expended the battery, and the calculated range is based on the brick with the minimum voltage, possibly explaining your premature deterioration. The warranty covers 70% retention of battery capacity, so you still have a ways to go before this is a warranty issue unfortunately.
> 
> Here's a plot of my LR AWD's cell imbalance on a single drive going from 73% to 8%:
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/pa2r25C
> 
> 
> Here's Bjorn showing a SR+ having 49.6 kWh nominal full pack (unknown how much degradation):


Thank you for the reply. As I have a decent technician background and some DIY BMS experience, I feel the same way: concerned.

i've did my best to drain the battery all the way to 0.9 kWh left (2%) and charge it all the way back up at Home charger.

When going under 20% SoC, I have (seemingly at least) high imbalance average was 80 and "resting" peaks up to 106mV

lowest cell voltage vs mid and highest, not soothing... As seem below:















Last picture:

Lowest cell voltage: 3.098V
Highest cell voltage: 3.178V

This is while standing still for a good 30-40minutes on my driveway to let the Hvac go to lowest soc possible.

right after that did a slow 100% charge.


----------



## MrWugz

MrGoogle87_SR+M3 said:


> Thank you for the reply. As I have a decent technician background and some DIY BMS experience, I feel the same way: concerned.
> 
> i've did my best to drain the battery all the way to 0.9 kWh left (2%) and charge it all the way back up at Home charger.
> 
> When going under 20% SoC, I have (seemingly at least) high imbalance average was 80 and "resting" peaks up to 106mV
> 
> lowest cell voltage vs mid and highest, not soothing... As seem below:
> View attachment 35041
> View attachment 35042
> 
> Last picture:
> 
> Lowest cell voltage: 3.098V
> Highest cell voltage: 3.178V
> 
> This is while standing still for a good 30-40minutes on my driveway to let the Hvac go to lowest soc possible.
> 
> right after that did a slow 100% charge.


It's hard to say how much capacity loss is represented by that imbalance since the voltage change of Li-Ion at low SoC is quite non-linear. In my own data with about 5% degradation I see a 80 mV difference between 14% and 8% SoC, which very questionable math puts your degradation as 6% worse than mine, so 11%? Not sure that's how it works...

It looks like your Nominal Full Pack kWh went from 46.7 to 47.5 as a result of your deep discharge, so at least that's a step in the right direction. If you were to record your car's exact range remaining via API and at the same time check the (Nominal Remaining - Energy Buffer) value you could work out your car's Wh/km EPA constant, which would let you figure out the SR+'s 100% undegraded capacity, and from there your exact degradation.

It sounds like you've already done this, but a good procedure to get your car to re-estimate itself accurately is to do the following in this order:

Let your car sit at 90% or greater for 24 hours (or longer if possible). This'll cause the BMS to re-balance the brick voltages, which only occurs at or above ~85%. Do this multiple times if necessity dictates you can't keep your car above 90% for a whole day at a time
Use your car normally but don't charge it. Let the battery get down low (<20% or whatever you're comfortable with), and leave it parked at that low SoC for at least a few hours
Charge the car back up to 90% (or higher) and let it sit for another few hours. This'll cause your BMS to re-estimate your pack's capacity based on the measured amp-hours added during charging
Recheck max range by setting your car UI to miles and dragging the charge level slider in the app to 100% (rough estimate) or redo your 100% charge test (but be sure to not let it sit there too long)
At the same time don't go out of your way to fully drain and fully charge your car or let it sit too long at extremely high / low SoC as this also contributes to your battery's degradation and long-term health.


----------



## MrGoogle87_SR+M3

MrWugz said:


> It's hard to say how much capacity loss is represented by that imbalance since the voltage change of Li-Ion at low SoC is quite non-linear. In my own data with about 5% degradation I see a 80 mV difference between 14% and 8% SoC, which very questionable math puts your degradation as 6% worse than mine, so 11%? Not sure that's how it works...
> 
> It looks like your Nominal Full Pack kWh went from 46.7 to 47.5 as a result of your deep discharge, so at least that's a step in the right direction. If you were to record your car's exact range remaining via API and at the same time check the (Nominal Remaining - Energy Buffer) value you could work out your car's Wh/km EPA constant, which would let you figure out the SR+'s 100% undegraded capacity, and from there your exact degradation.
> 
> It sounds like you've already done this, but a good procedure to get your car to re-estimate itself accurately is to do the following in this order:
> 
> Let your car sit at 90% or greater for 24 hours (or longer if possible). This'll cause the BMS to re-balance the brick voltages, which only occurs at or above ~85%. Do this multiple times if necessity dictates you can't keep your car above 90% for a whole day at a time
> Use your car normally but don't charge it. Let the battery get down low (<20% or whatever you're comfortable with), and leave it parked at that low SoC for at least a few hours
> Charge the car back up to 90% (or higher) and let it sit for another few hours. This'll cause your BMS to re-estimate your pack's capacity based on the measured amp-hours added during charging
> Recheck max range by setting your car UI to miles and dragging the charge level slider in the app to 100% (rough estimate) or redo your 100% charge test (but be sure to not let it sit there too long)
> At the same time don't go out of your way to fully drain and fully charge your car or let it sit too long at extremely high / low SoC as this also contributes to your battery's degradation and long-term health.


I have indeed tried (and still do that) as my default charging method. For 8 of the 9 months I own the car.

Only after consecutively supercharging on same day in our vacation it's nominal estimated capacity went up. At home it's dropping to previous estimates though.

The official 100% (nominal?) kWh's taken from the EPA test is *54.52kWh* *for the SR+* as states in this official Tesla EPA document. (Attached screenshot and link) this means I would have -12.88% capacity loss vs. a new pack.

(source, page 27: https://iaspub.epa.gov/otaqpub/display_file.jsp?docid=48305&flag=1 )

Our pack is even under capacity of a Standard Range - NonPlus.

ScanMyTesla For some reason lists 52.x kWh as max capacity "when new" but this is incorrect. (EPA is official and where the 240-250 mile advertised range is based on)

Thanks again for the information


----------



## MrWugz

MrGoogle87_SR+M3 said:


> I have indeed tried (and still do that) as my default charging method. For 8 of the 9 months I own the car.
> 
> Only after consecutively supercharging on same day in our vacation it's nominal estimated capacity went up. At home it's dropping to previous estimates though.
> 
> The official 100% (nominal?) kWh's taken from the EPA test is *54.52kWh* *for the SR+* as states in this official Tesla EPA document. (Attached screenshot and link) this means I would have -12.88% capacity loss vs. a new pack.
> 
> (source, page 27: https://iaspub.epa.gov/otaqpub/display_file.jsp?docid=48305&flag=1 )
> 
> Our pack is even under capacity of a Standard Range - NonPlus.
> 
> ScanMyTesla For some reason lists 52.x kWh as max capacity "when new" but this is incorrect. (EPA is official and where the 240-250 mile advertised range is based on)
> 
> Thanks again for the information


The EPA documents lay out the results of their lab tests, but I don't think they are what governs the pack capacity, only the Wh/mi constants used for range calculation. Tesla can then fudge the capacity or efficiency numbers down a bit if it's in their favour (the 310 mile initial range of the RWD to not overshadow Model S for example).

Take my car for example: A 2018 AWD with the LR pack. The same EPA document shows a combined Energy discharge of all the cycles of 78.27 kWh for the Long Range, and a combined mileage of 371.47 miles. I don't know whether they do all tests sequentially on the same full charge or not, or what weights they give each test, but (RWD/AWD differences notwithstanding) simply dividing those total numbers would yield 210.7 Wh/mi, which is at least 10% too low for what the AWD uses and almost the same for RWD. Scan My Tesla shows my "when new" capacity as 77.8 kWh, but looking at the API and CAN bus simultaneously I only saw degradation start when the full pack capacity got below 75.9 kWh, which occurred just over a year into ownership. I didn't have SMT at first, but presumably my pack came from the factory slightly over-provisioned as most seem to and they clamped the health at 100% until it dropped below an internal benchmark. Comparing the API's range figure to SMT's (Expected Remaining - Buffer) I can work out the Wh/mi constant for my car is exactly 233.95 Wh/mi regardless of degradation. Working backwards, that makes a usable capacity at 310 miles (0% degradation) of 72.525 kWh. Adding back the 4.5% bottom buffer should mean an un-degraded Nominal Full capacity of 75.94 kWh. This aligns with where I saw the degradation start to occur, but not with either SMT's "when new" or the EPA figure.

Take any range reading from your car's GUI (or pull a more accurate one from the API) and divide by your SOC Expected % to work out your car's estimate of 100% range. Then divide by your car's stated max range (402 km / 250 miles for 2020, 240 miles for 2019, not sure if bump is retroactive) to work out a health figure. Then multiply this health by your current Nominal Full Pack and this should be your car's 100% health benchmark, +/- 0.1 kWh for rounding.


----------



## MrGoogle87_SR+M3

MrWugz said:


> The EPA documents lay out the results of their lab tests, but I don't think they are what governs the pack capacity, only the Wh/mi constants used for range calculation. Tesla can then fudge the capacity or efficiency numbers down a bit if it's in their favour (the 310 mile initial range of the RWD to not overshadow Model S for example).
> 
> Take my car for example: A 2018 AWD with the LR pack. The same EPA document shows a combined Energy discharge of all the cycles of 78.27 kWh for the Long Range, and a combined mileage of 371.47 miles. I don't know whether they do all tests sequentially on the same full charge or not, or what weights they give each test, but (RWD/AWD differences notwithstanding) simply dividing those total numbers would yield 210.7 Wh/mi, which is at least 10% too low for what the AWD uses and almost the same for RWD. Scan My Tesla shows my "when new" capacity as 77.8 kWh, but looking at the API and CAN bus simultaneously I only saw degradation start when the full pack capacity got below 75.9 kWh, which occurred just over a year into ownership. I didn't have SMT at first, but presumably my pack came from the factory slightly over-provisioned as most seem to and they clamped the health at 100% until it dropped below an internal benchmark. Comparing the API's range figure to SMT's (Expected Remaining - Buffer) I can work out the Wh/mi constant for my car is exactly 233.95 Wh/mi regardless of degradation. Working backwards, that makes a usable capacity at 310 miles (0% degradation) of 72.525 kWh. Adding back the 4.5% bottom buffer should mean an un-degraded Nominal Full capacity of 75.94 kWh. This aligns with where I saw the degradation start to occur, but not with either SMT's "when new" or the EPA figure.
> 
> Take any range reading from your car's GUI (or pull a more accurate one from the API) and divide by your SOC Expected % to work out your car's estimate of 100% range. Then divide by your car's stated max range (402 km / 250 miles for 2020, 240 miles for 2019, not sure if bump is retroactive) to work out a health figure. Then multiply this health by your current Nominal Full Pack and this should be your car's 100% health benchmark, +/- 0.1 kWh for rounding.


Some packs come with a hidden top buffer which means it takes longer before you notice degradation/ capacity loss.

Ours is rated for 240 Miles, so (208-240 /240) x100= -13.33%

Still pretty bad if you'd ask me.. I wish ScanMyTesla would show me individual cellblocks like it's possible to see on Model S


----------



## Moridin

MrWugz said:


> The EPA documents lay out the results of their lab tests, but I don't think they are what governs the pack capacity, only the Wh/mi constants used for range calculation. Tesla can then fudge the capacity or efficiency numbers down a bit if it's in their favour (the 310 mile initial range of the RWD to not overshadow Model S for example).
> 
> Take my car for example: A 2018 AWD with the LR pack. The same EPA document shows a combined Energy discharge of all the cycles of 78.27 kWh for the Long Range, and a combined mileage of 371.47 miles. I don't know whether they do all tests sequentially on the same full charge or not, or what weights they give each test, but (RWD/AWD differences notwithstanding) simply dividing those total numbers would yield 210.7 Wh/mi, which is at least 10% too low for what the AWD uses and almost the same for RWD. Scan My Tesla shows my "when new" capacity as 77.8 kWh, but looking at the API and CAN bus simultaneously I only saw degradation start when the full pack capacity got below 75.9 kWh, which occurred just over a year into ownership. I didn't have SMT at first, but presumably my pack came from the factory slightly over-provisioned as most seem to and they clamped the health at 100% until it dropped below an internal benchmark. Comparing the API's range figure to SMT's (Expected Remaining - Buffer) I can work out the Wh/mi constant for my car is exactly 233.95 Wh/mi regardless of degradation. Working backwards, that makes a usable capacity at 310 miles (0% degradation) of 72.525 kWh. Adding back the 4.5% bottom buffer should mean an un-degraded Nominal Full capacity of 75.94 kWh. This aligns with where I saw the degradation start to occur, but not with either SMT's "when new" or the EPA figure.
> 
> Take any range reading from your car's GUI (or pull a more accurate one from the API) and divide by your SOC Expected % to work out your car's estimate of 100% range. Then divide by your car's stated max range (402 km / 250 miles for 2020, 240 miles for 2019, not sure if bump is retroactive) to work out a health figure. Then multiply this health by your current Nominal Full Pack and this should be your car's 100% health benchmark, +/- 0.1 kWh for rounding.


SAE J1634 measures both energy out and then back in to the battery. While there are several options available, most manufacturers run what's called the Multi-Cycle Test (MCT) which is a combination of city (UDDS) and highway (HWFET) cycles with constant speed cycles (CSC) at 65MPH mixed in. The efficiency of the vehicle is based off the average UDDS and HWFET cycles which are then weighted 55% UDDS and 45% HWFET. Generally, that number is then divided by 0.7 to estimate the difference to a more standard 5 cycle ICE test. A custom multiplier can be developed using the 5 cycle optional appendix test. A Haoki meter is used to measure the energy coming out of the battery during testing. The test flow goes roughly like this: Charge vehicle overnight to 100%, put on dyno, run MCT while measuring DC current and voltage of pack at DC power inlet/outlet of battery, pull off dyno, put on charge for 24 hours and measure the AC energy from the wall to charge back to 100%. Range is calculated based on DC usable battery energy (UBE) and efficiency over the MCT, and vehicle efficiency put on the EPA label is based on AC recharge energy and range calculated from the previous step.

Edited to remove: "Question, what is SOC Expected%?"
Was using an older version of the app without the updates for the newer Model 3 firmware.


----------



## garsh

Moridin said:


> Generally, that number is then divided by 0.7


correction: multiplied by 0.7.


----------



## Long Ranger

garsh said:


> correction: multiplied by 0.7.


Actually, I think the statement was correct because it referred to efficiency, before being converted to range.


----------



## MrWugz

Now that CAC_min and CAC_max are captured it should be more obvious when there's a brick capacity imbalance (e.g. one bad cell lowering a brick's capacity). The amp-hours calculation will be more representative of true capacity ranges of the bricks than could be inferred by the voltage imbalance alone, and is something like a historical record that you can review regardless of current SOC.

Point of reference for my 2 year old AWD with 50k km:
Nominal full pack: 71.8 kWh
CAC_min: 203.3 Ah
CAC_max: 206.8 Ah

And just because graphs are fun, here's a plot of L2 charging from 0%-90% during a recent recalibration attempt: 


http://imgur.com/T7MZrfd


----------



## Moridin

garsh said:


> correction: multiplied by 0.7.





Long Ranger said:


> Actually, I think the statement was correct because it referred to efficiency, before being converted to range.


Yeah, to convert efficiency, the 2 cycle values are divided by 0.7, thus increasing the number (to reflect a lower efficiency). If using non-adjusted efficiency and UBE to calculate range, then you would multiply by 0.7 to come up with the 5-cycle equivalent.


----------



## Stromi

Thank you for the latest update of Scan My Tesla for iOS. 
The Signals List makes it finally worthwhile.


----------



## duwrkn

Problem installing scan my Tesla. Has anyone else seen this error message? What should I do?
I’m using a cable from GPS Tracking America website and the obd2 from Amazon.


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## Feathermerchant

I have seen that on my wireless setup (recommended hardware) when I was too far away to get bluetooth signal.


----------



## duwrkn

Feathermerchant said:


> I have seen that on my wireless setup (recommended hardware) when I was too far away to get bluetooth signal.


I'm using this OBD2 listed below. I am using a Samsung Galaxy S7.

OBDLink LX OBD2 Bluetooth Scanner for Android and Windows


----------



## Rush

duwrkn said:


> Problem installing scan my Tesla. Has anyone else seen this error message? What should I do?
> I'm using a cable from GPS Tracking America website and the obd2 from Amazon.


Yes I get that message all the time. I either just let it reconnect which sometimes takes several Restartings. Or I go up into the 'wrench' in the upper left corner and reclick the chose car, chose bluetooth device , FW 2020..... ATMA before filters and either of them work eventually. I use the German Harness and Bluetooth connector for 2020 Model 3+. My bluetooth device is a Galaxy Tab A 8" 2019.


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## duwrkn

Thank you very much! That worked even though the model Y is not listed, I just used the Model 3

too bad this info is not easy to find


----------



## Dantium

Does anyone know if this Bluetooth adapter will work ok with Scan my Tesla IOS app ?

*Veepeak OBDCheck BLE OBD2 Bluetooth Scanner Auto OBD II EOBD Diagnostic Scan Tool for iOS*

Compatible with iOS (no Bluetooth pairing needed; connect in the app) 
Communication Method: Bluetooth LE for iOS


----------



## Needsdecaf

I just saw somewhere else that there is now an iOS version of SMT. I downloaded it, but cannot get the phone to connect to the OBDII bluetooth module I purchased from SMT back in 2019. Are there only certain modules that work with the iOS app?

If I need a new one, think this one would work, since we're really looking to just connect via 3rd party app?


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## Long Ranger

Needsdecaf said:


> Are there only certain modules that work with the iOS app?


SMT only lists the OBDLink MX+ under iOS:
https://sites.google.com/view/scanmytesla/adapters
I've seen another app say OBDLink CX support is coming soon for iOS, but I don't know about SMT support for that one.


----------



## Needsdecaf

Long Ranger said:


> SMT only lists the OBDLink MX+ under iOS:
> https://sites.google.com/view/scanmytesla/adapters
> I've seen another app say OBDLink CX support is coming soon for iOS, but I don't know about SMT support for that one.


Thanks. Pretty pricey given what I've already shelled out on the project.


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## amund7

Hi guys,

My dream is to have some cheap and/or great hardware that is understandable to buy, and works with both platforms, to avoid any confusion, and allow people to switch or use both platforms as they wish. Preferably both a cheap but useable/slow option, and an fast but still reasonably priced 'luxury' option.

Today that is only the OBDLINK MX+.

But since people are having ever increasing troubles with OBDLINK devices, for unknown reasons (I guess 1. More and more data on the Tesla buses, which are already overloading obdlink's intended purpose, 2. newer Android versions and 3. newer phone vendors with their own take on the bluetooth stack. And 4., maybe my app was never perfect and still isn't)

we want to support other hardware as well. We (actually just I) am debating myself on which way to go.

As of today, Josh Wardell's team has contributed a working alpha / early version of code to SMT that can read their Can Server. It works, needs a little polishing before ending up in the betas. And it works sooo beautifully. Super fast, super stable, also works across your home wifi (if you input the right IP address).

That means, we will support JWardell Can Server quite soon. On both platforms, meaning first in Android beta + IOS beta, then hopefully quite quickly in IOS release. The classic Android app will stay a while still in production, until the Android beta can replace it, that will take a while. Meaning it won't get the new hardware support until it's replaced by the 2.0 branch app, currently in early beta stage.

I hope to be able to build on top of the contributed wifi code to also support wifi ELM327/STN1110 adapters. The beauty of this is the code can be written for both platforms at the same time. My current guess is that this will be hardware no.2 to be supported on both platforms.

Then we are debating BLE support. I know there are lots of devices out there, you mentioned OBDLINK CX, which I believe is a regular BLE adapter, but not sure, it seems to be marketed only towards a specific BMW app, is it locked to that app? Then we have the EMDS adapter, which already has both BLE + Bluetooth Classic, and many similar devices out there. So it would be a great advantage for all current owners of this device that they could switch to IOS with their device if they want, and also for EMDS to be able to say that our dongle supports both scan my tesla IOS and Android.


But, there is so much more to this.
First of all, an OBDLINK is up to 20 times faster than all other OBD2 devices. This might not sound so important to you, but the problem is, the slow adapters do not drop packets gracefully. It's not like you get a slower data stream with all signals included. The fast ones override the slow (this might be a part of the CAN standard, ID # ~= priority, not sure), but the result is slow signals like Odometer might never be recieved at all. I have seen some really awful graphs of cell voltages in Teslalogger, because a regular adapter can miss lots of packets with cell voltages, this is a multiplexed packet that sends a few cells each round and uses quite a while to get around the whole battery. The result can be, 1 cell group might update once every half hour, or possibly not at all. This makes for awful graphs and logs. The app tries to filter out (through hardware filters in the obd2 adapter) the packets you are looking at. So for the BMS tab in scan my tesla, you will only get that 1 slow packet, and you will get ALL of them. But once you add Teslalogger into the mix, with it's long list (though user configurable) of signals to log, the slow packets drown in the faster ones.

With an OBDLINK, this is no problem, as it can get up to 1100 packets per second, which I believe covers all the data Scan My Tesla can understand from the car. The car sends more, between 2-3000, but we only understand about 160 signals out of the possibly thousands the car sends.

THEN when we get to the new dashboards; The default dashboard of the IOS & betas has something like 8 signals, most of them sent from the car at 100 hz. If you have an ELM that gives you 50 packets per second this turns into a very jerky and laggy experience. All these were reasons why I went for OBDLINK, but I was oblivious to the almost 3x price compared to LX and buggy IOS support. And I thought at the time, Iphone people already have expensive and polished hardware, you want the best, smoothest experience, let's give you that. Now you want something cheap. I can promise you won't like it. But I still want to give you the option. Of course a slow adapter will work for lots of things, such as battery stats, temperatures etc, high speed not required.

TL;DR:
I want IOS today: OBDLINK MX+
I want fast Android today: OBDLINK LX (or MX+ for IOS compatibility, they are equally fast)
I want stable cheap, but slower Android today: EMDS Mini-OBD2
I want fast, stable, Android, IOS in near-term future: JWARDELL CAN server
I want cheap, stable IOS: Wait and see what we can come up with 
I want Teslalogger, fast, detailed logs now: OBDLINK
I want Teslalogger, fast detailed logs + stability, near-term future support: JWARDELL CAN server


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## Needsdecaf

Thanks for the lengthy reply. Wish I understood It better! I’ll try reading again on Not a Friday night, lol.
I guess my basic question is, how come the Bluetooth OBD2 adapter I purchased from you for the android app wont work on the IOS device? I just don’t have the technical knowledge to understand.


----------



## JWardell

_fires up the soldering iron..._


----------



## amund7

Needsdecaf said:


> Thanks for the lengthy reply. Wish I understood It better! I'll try reading again on Not a Friday night, lol.
> I guess my basic question is, how come the Bluetooth OBD2 adapter I purchased from you for the android app wont work on the IOS device? I just don't have the technical knowledge to understand.


I don't sell any hardware, but I reccommend some shops around the world that do.

You have 2 types of Bluetooth (at least relevant here):
BLE (bluetooth low energy). Meant for heart monitors and ear phones, low speed for battery powered devices
Bluetooth 'classic'. 'Disallowed' by Apple for some reason

The E-Mobility Mini-OBD which I suppose you are referring to actually supports both types of bluetooth.

The Android app supports bluetooth classic
The IOS app supports the OBDLINK MX+, and could easily be extended to other MFI approved ('Made For Ipod') devices.
The IOS app could technically support BLE, but it is not implemented. It could be in the future. But this is a big job that will delay all other features, it will only benefit the IOS app since that code must be IOS native, it will further divide the choices of hardware between the platforms. Wifi support will however support the same devices on both platforms and that's the next hardware to be supported, first out JWardell Can Server.


----------



## JWardell

To clarify, bluetooth classic isn't disallowed by apple overall, but parts of it are blocked unless approved. Bluetooth is broken into standardized profiles, which define functionality. Profiles for audio devices like headphones and microphones are fully open, as well as HID profiles like keyboards and mice. Apple does not normally allow access in iOS to serial device over bluetooth profiles, unless all software and hardware involved follow a rigorous process to get approval to work with each other. That's where the MiFi branding came from, or "made for iPhone."
Apple does this to assure data security, and is in the best interest of the customer and his device that contains more personal information than anything else in the world. But the process only allows for the biggest companies with enough clout to get through, and that's if you can even convince the accessory manufacture to deal with it too.
You can actually install Xcode and build and load apps that access these accessories yourself, but they are unsigned and you must manually load them. It's OK if you are developing an app only for yourself, and you can distribute the code for others to compile and load, and it will talk to those devices, but obviously not commercially viable.
The better bet is to just get some junk android tablet or phone to dedicate for the purpose, as I did years ago to use SMT and OBDlink. And then you can even install it and leave it in your car and not worry about it. It's actually a nicer experience than trying to use your phone for everything. It's the same reason why I need to keep a copy of Windows kicking around to use certain hardware and software that won't work easily on anything else.


----------



## TesLou

Okay; I'm lazy and don't have the time to scroll back through 9 pages of this thread. I traded my Model 3 last spring for a Model X. I was using Scan My Tesla with a Galaxy Tab, OBD2 bluetooth device and the adapter cables, to read the data on my Model 3. I recently got around to buying the cable for my X. After plugging everything in and connecting to SMT app, I'm getting some really odd readings in some areas and simply nothing in others. Has something changed or does SMT not work with an X?


----------



## JWardell

TesLou said:


> Okay; I'm lazy and don't have the time to scroll back through 9 pages of this thread. I traded my Model 3 last spring for a Model X. I was using Scan My Tesla with a Galaxy Tab, OBD2 bluetooth device and the adapter cables, to read the data on my Model 3. I recently got around to buying the cable for my X. After plugging everything in and connecting to SMT app, I'm getting some really odd readings in some areas and simply nothing in others. Has something changed or does SMT not work with an X?


Have you changed your SMT settings from model 3 to model X?


----------



## TesLou

JWardell said:


> Have you changed your SMT settings from model 3 to model X?


(Insert best Homer Simpson "D'OH!" here). Thanks J.


----------



## amund7

TesLou said:


> Okay; I'm lazy and don't have the time to scroll back through 9 pages of this thread. I traded my Model 3 last spring for a Model X. I was using Scan My Tesla with a Galaxy Tab, OBD2 bluetooth device and the adapter cables, to read the data on my Model 3. I recently got around to buying the cable for my X. After plugging everything in and connecting to SMT app, I'm getting some really odd readings in some areas and simply nothing in others. Has something changed or does SMT not work with an X?


You need to change cars in the app, S/X speaks a completely different language than 3/Y. If you're on the classic Android app, that's Wrench -> Choose car -> S/X


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## amund7

scan my tesla 2.2.1 beta/testflight with JWardell CanServer support! 
https://jwardell.myshopify.com/collections/all

IOS https://testflight.apple.com/join/vjt53f4N

Android, still in review in Google Play, will show as an upgrade when it's cleared: 
(from Android phone) https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.emon.canbus.tesla 
(from web) https://play.google.com/apps/testing/com.emon.canbus.tesla


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## SeRiusRod

I would want to say thanks for making a so much useful app, and also post some suggestions.

It would be nice to be able to create new "calculated" data points, based on one or several existing data points, and apply a math operation.
I would want, for example, getting a real range calculation from the estimated one, by multiplying by a calibration constant for my particular car.

Also +1000 on data points "placeholders" to be able to edit tabs offline.

Rename new tabs.

A full screen mode.

And perhaps mixed data points styles.


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## amund7

Great input!

I have thought about formulas too, but can't figure out how to make it user friendly. But it is technically possible to do some run-time scripting with C#, so the idea is there. I would also like to have either loading of DBC files, or pasting / manually entering DBC signals, or some other way to enter custom signals. But it is unfortunately way down on the list right now.

Editing tabs offline is also on the idea list.

Check out the beta version, it has graphical dashboards, will get editable tabs + names soon, and everything is full screen. The plan is to also make the graphical dashboards editable.


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## francoisp

I have a silly question. I am trying to understand the benefit of getting all that data. Is there anything in it that's actionable? For example can I use it to improve range and things like that? Or is it just something that's cool to look at.


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## amund7

francoisp said:


> I have a silly question. I am trying to understand the benefit of getting all that data. Is there anything in it that's actionable? For example can I use it to improve range and things like that? Or is it just something that's cool to look at.


It is firstly cool to look at, then it satisfies the curiosity of some of us who just like to know how things work, and why it doesn't when it doesn't.

Battery temperature affects lots of things from charge speed to usable output power, also the way the car pre-heats the battery if you try to charge when it's too cold can impact your electricity bill a lot, and is pretty much not explained anywhere else than in this app (or other similar apps)

For drag races for instance, a log of your different attempts will tell you if the traction control is kicking in and you need better tires, adjust tire pressures etc. Of course the app also shows the measured 0-100 times, and I have started some work for 1/4 mile measurements too, but not sure it will be accurate enough.

For track days, having the brake temperatures for my Model 3 was very useful, I could save the brakes when needed to stay below boiling

For range, you have live wh/km and also kW readouts which the car does not show you, as well as trip recording. Depending on car models you have some different readouts of how much power your HVAC is pulling. Dusins of temperature readouts can teach you how to most effectively supercharge / cool off and how the car recycles the heat or spends energy getting rid of it, depending on the situation.

If you are into hypermiling, you can see individual cell voltages as well as cell balance, and you can probably dare to go lower than 0% by getting to know your battery in more detail.

So no simple yes/no answers here, but you can learn how to utilize your car better.

There are about 160 signals in this app, each one can answer some questions you might have about what your car is doing and why.

Then there is the health of car and battery, again no simple yes/no, but temperatures, mileage, range, battery capacity, AC/DC charge counters can tell you how your car compares to others, or if something starts changing.

So it's not for everybody, but something for everybody who have a special interest in cars, EVs, or just statistics and data.


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## Tesla_Oleg

Hi,
I've just started using SMT and was wondering what the big red dot in the bottom right does.
All I can see is the tabs disappear when I press it...
Is there some sort of user manual for this app?
Thanks.
Oleg


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## Feathermerchant

It is for recording.


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## amund7

Tesla_Oleg said:


> Hi,
> I've just started using SMT and was wondering what the big red dot in the bottom right does.
> All I can see is the tabs disappear when I press it...
> Is there some sort of user manual for this app?
> Thanks.
> Oleg


Long-press to give different file formats. You can record several simultaneously.
RAW = what the app is getting with it's current settings (depends on which tab you're on + Teslalogger settings if enabled)
CAN DUMP = ALL data from the car, or in reality, as much as your OBD adapter can swallow
CSV = a CSV of your current tab, to put into Excel, or plot with UDPLogger (you can find a link in scanmytesla.com -> reccommended software) or other CSV compatible software.

Click it to toggle recording the files you chose.
Files are stored in (internal storage)/ScanMyTesla


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## amund7

As for user manual, check out https://www.scanmytesla.com/ - especially the 'videos' section, it has some very nice walk-throughs.


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## sirathan

Hi @amund7

I am using SMT with Teslalogger and i love it. Great work!
I like to collect all the data SMT gets from the can bus and store it in Telsalogger.

I have an old galaxy S7 installed in my Model S, running SMT. While parked at home it is connected to my home-wifi. 
While driving i have to connect to my other mobilephone's wifi-hotspot to transfer data to Teslalogger.

I wonder if there is a way for SMT to buffer (record locally) all the data on the bus and upload it to Teslalogger when i return home and the galaxy connects to my wifi agian?

Thank you!


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## amund7

sirathan said:


> Hi @amund7
> 
> I am using SMT with Teslalogger and i love it. Great work!
> I like to collect all the data SMT gets from the can bus and store it in Telsalogger.
> 
> I have an old galaxy S7 installed in my Model S, running SMT. While parked at home it is connected to my home-wifi.
> While driving i have to connect to my other mobilephone's wifi-hotspot to transfer data to Teslalogger.
> 
> I wonder if there is a way for SMT to buffer (record locally) all the data on the bus and upload it to Teslalogger when i return home and the galaxy connects to my wifi agian?
> 
> Thank you!


Sorry, just discovered this now.

There is no straight forward way to do that right now that I know of. We have discussed something like this in the past, but it's a complicated task and will happen when we (me and/or Christian, the Teslalogger developer) have time to put into it.

I have done something similar with InfluxDB + grafana for my own purposes, that is, record CSV, an app that auto syncs with google drive, then scripts on my PC to upload to influxdb. Some pieces of it here, not user friendly, but usable for someone who can read & edit scripts. I was hoping someone (or me) will get the time to polish it a bit so it can be used by anyone. https://github.com/amund7/ScanMyTeslaToInfluxDB

Something similar can probably be done by someone proficient with the database Teslalogger uses, I believe it's MariaDB. Christian can probably help with such a project, I know he has implemented import filters from several other databases and apps. But Christian has advised against high resolution data from SMT to let Raspberry Pi's survive, you should probably run it on a proper server before trying to stuff the huge amounts of data from SMT.


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## Eugenius

Hi @amund7 what about this solution:
SMT don't send data to TL immediately, but saves it (e.g. csv: unixtimestamp_from_can;id;value, new file every 30 second or so to keep it small) on the phone. And when Internet connection is available sends it to teslalogger server (like very big cache). For TeslaLogger it is not relevant how old the data is.
Next step would be to optimize the process without TeslaLogger server but with local network cync.
Google sync is a interesting idea. I have to discuss with Christian if he can watch for special files (linke smt.csv) on raspi and if the file is available, he could import ist.
How this file will be copied to that place is not relevant (e.g. google drive, or dropbox or local sync).

EDIT: for Android user https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=dk.tacit.android.foldersync.lite can be used (TL needs FTP server for local sync)

in 3rd step maybe SMT can sync directly to TL (helps iOS users).
There one problem that Christian already identified:
If my SMT Phone log ins to my friends WiFi and he uses TL also, it can be possible that "local sync" will synchronize the data to "wrong" TL :/
If SMT will sync the data, SMT and TL can check (tasker)token or so to identify if it is the right one TL or not 
But I think, we can live with a restriction, that SMT Pphone should only be in one local WiFi with one TL only...

EDIT2: the last problem can be solved by ftp user/password...


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## amund7

Yes, most of this is available today, with a 3rd party sync app, and a modification of my scripts to work with MariaDB instead of Influxdb. The .exe should run directly on the Pi the same as the rest of the Teslalogger software.


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## Jasper

Question, I have the IOS version. Is there a way to make a customized parameter list. I don't see anywhere in the menus to do this. I mainly only want about 10 parameters and would like to display all on one screen on my iPad.
Also my cell difference is .005v, to me that seems like a healthy battery, is it?
And my nominal full pack ranges from 71.3-71.6, is that decent for the age ?
The car has 4819 DC charge kWH and 26277 AC kWH and 693 charge cycles.
2014 P95+ with 90k miles.


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## amund7

Editable signal lists are not yet implemented, but they are the next on the list, along with CSV recording.

I just present you the numbers, my brain is not wired to remember all of them, I have a hard time remembering those from my own car even  But Teslalogger can help with some of this, https://teslalogger.de/degradation.php

Otherwise maybe someone else can chime in on your numbers.

Cell balance does not necessarily tell you anything, the BMS is super awesome at balancing and will do it even before it's out of balance. If you are on a road trip and empty the whole battery quite fast you could take a look when the SOC is very low. But all batteries will be somewhat out of balance in that scenario, and I can't really say how much is good and how much is bad. But basically your battery can only deliver power until the lowest cell voltage gets really low, so if you have one cell group that runs out before the others, that means you can't use all the capacity of the others. The opposite happens when supercharging, no cell group can go above 4,2 volts, then the charging has to stop. But I haven't really seen this being a problem in any Tesla, unless one cell group is about to die. Had one user report a cell group that was drastically lower than the others, in his case the whole pack died just a few days later. So I think you can't tell much from cell balance in a Tesla, other than imminent death, which is of course interesting to know.


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## Jasper

amund7 said:


> Editable signal lists are not yet implemented, but they are the next on the list, along with CSV recording.
> 
> I just present you the numbers, my brain is not wired to remember all of them, I have a hard time remembering those from my own car even  But Teslalogger can help with some of this, https://teslalogger.de/degradation.php
> 
> Otherwise maybe someone else can chime in on your numbers.
> 
> Cell balance does not necessarily tell you anything, the BMS is super awesome at balancing and will do it even before it's out of balance. If you are on a road trip and empty the whole battery quite fast you could take a look when the SOC is very low. But all batteries will be somewhat out of balance in that scenario, and I can't really say how much is good and how much is bad. But basically your battery can only deliver power until the lowest cell voltage gets really low, so if you have one cell group that runs out before the others, that means you can't use all the capacity of the others. The opposite happens when supercharging, no cell group can go above 4,2 volts, then the charging has to stop. But I haven't really seen this being a problem in any Tesla, unless one cell group is about to die. Had one user report a cell group that was drastically lower than the others, in his case the whole pack died just a few days later. So I think you can't tell much from cell balance in a Tesla, other than imminent death, which is of course interesting to know.


Thank you very much, I really appreciate it.


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## Aden

I recently installed ScanMyTesla, and clicking the red button on the bottom-right throws a long error that starts with "*System.UnauthorizedAccessException: Access to the path '/storage/emulated/0/ScanMyTesla/Trip2022-01-08 14-04-17.csv' is denied*."

The app didn't create a ScanMyTesla folder on my phone's internal storage, so I created one manually. But it still doesn't work. Any idea what I'm doing wrong? As far as I can tell none of my data is being logged so I can review it later.

EDIT to add a screenshot of the error.


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## Feathermerchant

Maybe you need to grant the application rights to write to your phone memory?


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## Aden

Feathermerchant said:


> Maybe you need to grant the application rights to write to your phone memory?


That was one of the first things I checked, and it says files and media are allowed in the app settings, so I'm stumped.


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## windcrusader

Anyone noticed the stator temp is not updating in SMT following vehicle update 2022.12.3.1? A couple of other temp fields also seem not to be working. Everything else seems fine.


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## amund7

windcrusader said:


> Anyone noticed the stator temp is not updating in SMT following vehicle update 2022.12.3.1? A couple of other temp fields also seem not to be working. Everything else seems fine.


Android version 1.9.10 for Android on Monday, IOS v 2.3.1 on Tuesday fixes this. Check your store for updates. If you are on Android beta I am stuck on an issue with building the app with the correct API levels and matching certificates for new Play Store requirements, will be resolved soon and updated with the same fix.


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## amund7

amund7 said:


> Android version 1.9.10 for Android on Monday, IOS v 2.3.1 on Tuesday fixes this. Check your store for updates. If you are on Android beta I am stuck on an issue with building the app with the correct API levels and matching certificates for new Play Store requirements, will be resolved soon and updated with the same fix.


Android beta 2.3.1 is released.


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## Mike1080i

windcrusader said:


> Anyone noticed the stator temp is not updating in SMT following vehicle update 2022.12.3.1? A couple of other temp fields also seem not to be working. Everything else seems fine.


I'm on 2022.16.2 with Android version 1.9.10 and I'm seeing the rear stator stuck at 9C/48F and the front stator at 215C/419F.


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## Teslasy_8328

I have a cell difference 2.5v but the reading are very erratic & does this on modules 8 & 10. It will show all cells approx 3.6v then 2 cells from module 8 & 2 from 10 will suddenly drop to 1.6v then back up to 3.6v the faulty cells are in the same position on scan my Tesla; 1st row top right & 2nd row bottom left. They change at t tree exact same time. Car is a 2014 model S with reconditioned pack fitted 2.5 years ago by Tesla. I’ve stripped down the pack expecting to find water/ coolant but cannot visually see anything. I have isolated each module & checked the voltages. From memory 12 are all 22.76, the lowest reading was 22.74, some 22.75. Which were all much closer than I had expected. My knowledge suggests all my modules are good? I now assume I have a fault with the BMS circuit boards but how can 2 go down at the same time? Or could it be a BMS wiring fault within the pack, or fault the pack circuit board situated at the rear of the pack? Has anyone come across this? If I don’t get any response my next plan is to move the modules around in the pack, & the BMS circuit boards, refit the pack to the car & see if the fault has moved. Unless someone has a better idea. All input welcome Thanks


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## Park2670

Is it possible to customize a tab in the signal lists to have the data that I want? Or do we only have the ability to choose from the dropdown? 

iOS version 2.3.5 (2)


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