# TM3 doesn't start (drive/reverse) - 2 videos



## mptpro (Sep 30, 2018)

Twice this happened to me.... the car is "on" but it won't go into Drive nor reverse. The stalk works, but the car won't go into the D/R mode. Had to reset the car, then it worked.

Here are the two videos (merged into one file): :


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## MelindaV (Apr 2, 2016)

what has service said?


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## Jay79 (Aug 18, 2018)

I think it worked because the Bangles came on the radio actually


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## VoltageDrop (Sep 16, 2018)

Does the stalk work for other functions too without issue (activating cruise and autopilot) or is that also hit or miss.....if activating those functions are acting up too.....you may be dealing with a faulty stock.......?


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## mptpro (Sep 30, 2018)

MelindaV said:


> what has service said?


they don't have an answer yet but I'm going in for another service in two weeks and I'm going to bring it up again and show it to him in person


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## mptpro (Sep 30, 2018)

VoltageDrop said:


> Does the stalk work for other functions too without issue (activating cruise and autopilot) or is that also hit or miss.....if activating those functions are acting up too.....you may be dealing with a faulty stock.......?


no, once the car got started after doing a reset everything work properly with no other problems with the stalk


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## byee (Dec 27, 2017)

Have had this happen twice in the past week too. I unlocked my iPhone and that seemed to help (even though it wasn't asking me to put the key card in the spot). On v2018.39.7 and latest version of iOS on an iPhone X.


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## JasonF (Oct 26, 2018)

If you are using a Bluetooth device as a key - most notably an iPhone - sometimes the Bluetooth can get into a state where it will allow the Model 3 to unlock, but not drive. 

Turn OFF your phone, then use the RFID card to start the car. Then turn your phone back on, and re-pair the Bluetooth key.

I have notified Tesla service of the possibility of that happening, hopefully they'll add it to their knowledge base soon.


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## JimmT (Aug 1, 2017)

This happened a few times both to myself and a coworker. We both fixed it temporarily by leaving the car and locking/unlocking the car from our phones. We both had iPhones and had just updated to iOS 12. After Apple patched iOS 12, we haven’t seen the problem.


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## Love (Sep 13, 2017)

Can also chime in that I've had this happen once recently. I used the key card for that drive and then performed a reset when I got where I was going. Don't recall having any issues, or having that occur again, since then.


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## Ericb (Oct 11, 2018)

This happened to me a bunch about a month ago. Restarting the car with fix the glitch, additionally getting out of the car and letting it lock then getting back in would also fix it. I think this is more likely an iOS issue than a tesla issue. It hasn't happened in a while, probably since the 12.0.1 update. Or it could have been the v9 update, there are a lot of variables but I'm not sure which caused it. Recently I've had an issue where I can get in the car but the car doesn't register the phone key to start, but just simply unlocking my phone (don't even need to open the tesla app) resolves that.


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## firedfly (Sep 23, 2017)

I've had something similar happen twice since I updated to v9 a few weeks ago. For me, I only had the issue of not being able to shift into R/D for 30-60 seconds before the issue fixed itself. I did not need to reboot the car or open the door. I'm using an Android phone (Moto X4).


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## ER1C8 (Jan 1, 2018)

This has happened to me to. Next time it happens try tapping your key card to the console. That has worked for me everytime. It seems like the car thinks it is authenticated to drive but for some reason isn't so it doesn't display the message to authenticate.


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## Vidya (Aug 13, 2018)

This happened to be 3 or 4 times earlier. called service and they told, the phone is not authenticated and asked me to put keycard in the center consol. then it started and worked fine. or you just need to switch off and on bluetooth.


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## Bernard (Aug 3, 2017)

JasonF said:


> If you are using a Bluetooth device as a key - most notably an iPhone - sometimes the Bluetooth can get into a state where it will allow the Model 3 to unlock, but not drive.
> 
> Turn OFF your phone, then use the RFID card to start the car. Then turn your phone back on, and re-pair the Bluetooth key.
> 
> I have notified Tesla service of the possibility of that happening, hopefully they'll add it to their knowledge base soon.


I've had that experience as well, using my Android phone.


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## Karl Sun (Sep 19, 2018)

Another unicorn build! - White interior with a brown wood dash piece.

These are getting too common.


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## Frully (Aug 30, 2018)

Possible solution...

I had exactly this -- confirmed bluetooth key connected, app connected via lte also.

It was as if it was in the 'tap card to drive' mode, without the visual cue, despite bluetooth app saying connected.
While in that limbo I attempted tapping my wallet and then (again, without visual cue) the car went into drive without incident.


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## aanderson81 (Sep 13, 2017)

I've had this happen quite a bit when I first got the car in August. However the software updates have made it less frequent. From what I've researched and the service ticket I opened it's not your car, it's a software bug between your phone and the car. Apparently the phone authenticated when you unlocked but closed or put to sleep the BLE Bluetooth connection used by the key for one reason or another (this is different than audio / phone). The car thinks it has a session so it's not saying please use card, but it's not getting the authorization to start so it just sits there till it does. In my experience a restart doesn't "fix" it. It just takes time to reboot and by time it's done rebooting either the car has timed out and started a new connection or the phone has woke the connection and is responding to the authorization request. If you just wait about the time it would take to reboot you'll probably see it's working again on it's own without a reboot.

It really seems like today's phones do crappy things with BLE for power savings / bad implementation reasons


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