# The early adventures of "Excelsior"!



## GateFather

Everything went off without a hitch and I've been having a blast. This car is an absolute thrill to drive. It's so beautiful and although I was told there wouldn't be a dual motor badge, there is!

I was one of the lucky ones and had my original appointment moved up earlier! Was December 3rd and got it today. Inspected everything on the checklist and it's all good. Feeling super lucky! Here are some pics of (and I stole this from someone else) "Excelsior!"


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## jasonm163

Congrats, try not to obsess over keeping it clean like I do mine. You are going to find yourself washing it WAY too often LOL.

Do you have a NEMA 14-50 installed in the garage already? Or what are your plans for charging?


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## Dan D

How does "Danielle" feel about it? Hhaha looks like she got the first call.

And I'd really like that badge.


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## GateFather

jasonm163 said:


> Congrats, try not to obsess over keeping it clean like I do mine. You are going to find yourself washing it WAY too often LOL.
> 
> Do you have a NEMA 14-50 installed in the garage already? Or what are your plans for charging?


Luckily my father in law is an electrician and helped me install a Tesla Wall Charger. It's all ready and hooked up at home. Haven't been home yet though!



Dan D said:


> How does "Danielle" feel about it? Hhaha looks like she got the first call.
> 
> And I'd really like that badge.


Haha Danielle is my wife. She's actually not a fan. Told me she almost passed out when I took her for her inaugural drive and showed off it's speed. Haha


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## Dan D

GateFather said:


> Luckily my father in law is an electrician and helped me install a Tesla Wall Charger. It's all ready and hooked up at home. Haven't been home yet though!
> 
> Haha Danielle is my wife. She's actually not a fan. Told me she almost passed out when I took her for her inaugural drive and showed off it's speed. Haha


My wife was mostly a fan during all of the 2.5-year build-up. Until, by accident, she saw the dealer window sticker (with bold MSRP) laying there in the trunk. I had made it that long with the actual cost of the car never coming out of my mouth. I used phrases like... "well, the payment will almost be the same as the Honda". "Oh, that's cool then."


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## ChristianZ

GateFather said:


> Luckily my father in law is an electrician and helped me install a Tesla Wall Charger. It's all ready and hooked up at home. Haven't been home yet though!
> 
> Haha Danielle is my wife. She's actually not a fan. Told me she almost passed out when I took her for her inaugural drive and showed off it's speed. Haha


Did you install the Wall Connector inside or outside? I'm curious since I live in NJ too.


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## GateFather

ChristianZ said:


> Did you install the Wall Connector inside or outside? I'm curious since I live in NJ too.


I installed it inside my garage between the doors. Here's some pictures.


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## Dan D

Where is your panel if you had to come through the ceiling of your garage? Interesting.

I installed a 30-amp plug between my garage doors, similar to your location. My panel is in my garage but it still required 50-feet of conduit and wire to go around the rails of the doors.

Now that the car is here and I am in my real-life situation, I am already noticing that it's not an ideal location all the time. I'm considering splicing in a second plug on the other side of my garage that I can use if I back in. These are real-world problems, let me tell ya.


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## GateFather

Dan D said:


> Where is your panel if you had to come through the ceiling of your garage? Interesting.
> 
> I installed a 30-amp plug between my garage doors, similar to your location. My panel is in my garage but it still required 50-feet of conduit and wire to go around the rails of the doors.
> 
> Now that the car is here and I am in my real-life situation, I am already noticing that it's not an ideal location all the time. I'm considering splicing in a second plug on the other side of my garage that I can use if I back in. These are real-world problems, let me tell ya.


The panel is on an adjacent outside wall. There's an attic above the garage that we ran 40 feet of 6-2 gauge wire through (no neutral needed!) here's a picture of that side. Garage doors to the right.


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## SoFlaModel3

Midnight Silver and delivered with a Dual Motor badge. I love the new animation for Autopilot calibration in progress. Sweet!!!


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## GateFather

SoFlaModel3 said:


> Midnight Silver and delivered with a Dual Motor badge. I love the new animation for Autopilot calibration in progress. Sweet!!!


Didn't realize that was new! Loved that. Although the first couple tries after calibration almost drove me off the road! Better now after another 20 miles or so.


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## VoltageDrop

Congrats on the new ride @GateFather


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## SoFlaModel3

GateFather said:


> Didn't realize that was new! Loved that. Although the first couple tries after calibration almost drove me off the road! Better now after another 20 miles or so.


Its relatively new I believe within the last 1-2 months.


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## ADK46

How easy do you think it would be to pry off the “Dual Motor” badge? Not that I’d try to take yours, I’m too far away.


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## SoFlaModel3

ADK46 said:


> How easy do you think it would be to pry off the "Dual Motor" badge? Not that I'd try to take yours, I'm too far away.


It's very easy to debadge a car and here is the basic process...

(1) Park car in the sun
(2) Apply heat -- a hair dryer works well
(3) Run fishing line/floss behind the badging (pull toward you to avoid rubbing on the paint
(4) Lift the badge as you go, but don't pry it or you may leave marks in the paint
(5) Use Goo Gone to remove the remaining residue 
(6) Wash and Wax the area

It's best to do this as earlier as possible especially with colors that may fade over time (usually common in the reds).


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## MelindaV

SoFlaModel3 said:


> Its relatively new I believe within the last 1-2 months.


mine delivered just before your wife's (end of Sept) looked the same as @GateFather's pix


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## MelindaV

@GateFather - have you tried to load up your back seat with the kids seats yet?


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## GateFather

MelindaV said:


> @GateFather - have you tried to load up your back seat with the kids seats yet?


Getting there! Last on my list tonight. I have puddle lights, footwel lights, pedals, and vinyl on the docket tonight. I did something super dumb and accidentally tried to install the puddle lights in the footwell! The first wouldn't go on so I chalked it up to pulling on the wires too hard and a service center visit to fix. The second did the same. Even when I realized what I'd done and removed them and put the OEM lights back in they're off. On the passenger side, there is a red glow coming from inside the hole that the lights get put in in the wheel well. Did I blow a fuse? Something worse? Any help would be appreciated.

Got the puddle lights in the door no problem and they look great. Got only front doors and the Tesla T logo.

Brake pedal went on easy. Accelerator not so much. Have in some warm water to warm up the rubber now. Last for tonight is the vinyl and the car seat.


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## GateFather

Exhausted! I got a lot done tonight, and also a couple missteps. Also a few questions for the more experience folks.

*Successes:*
1) New pedals (very nice and comfortable)!













2) USB hub + USB drive partitioned with music on one partition and cam on the other- working like a charm!
3) Puddle lights for front driver and passenger of the Tesla T logo - nice!







4) Tesla wall charger works at my home nicely
5) iPhone XS Max has had no issues all day. Car was ready when I was!
6) Vinyl wrap is in and I think it looks nice! May cover the wood panel with the same material - not sure yet.













7) Jeda wireless pad in. I have a software update that will install tonight but for now I measured the Voltags and only am getting 5.11V out of the front USB. Will look into this more tomorrow after update.
8) Car seat in. My sons first ride tomorrow!








*Failures:*
1) I seem to have broken the driver and passengers footwell lights :-( - I read that there are no fuses and sometimes in 60-90 min things "reset." Well see...
- *UPDATE 1:25AM* - saw the software update was completed so went outside just to check things out and guess what!? Footwell lights work. Looks awesome now! 








*Questions:*
1) I setup my garage with homelink but for some reason even though I've set it to open and close automatically at 70 feet, it doesn't do it. It does open and close when I manually select the garage door from the homelink drop down.
2) Is there a way to have the mirrors automatically tuck in when homelink is triggered if I get that working (would be nice to have the mirrors in when pulling into garage)?
3) Is Eve for Tesla only for Model S and X? They have MyQ smart garage opener integration (I have those garage openers), but it seems to only be for S and X.
4) If a contact has multiple numbers, is there a way to always have it call one by default without having to choose. Even if I say, for example, "Call Danielle Mobile" it prompts me fore Home, Work, Mobile etc and I have to tap mobile each time.
5) Will summon stop if theres an obsticle in the way.....like a garage door?
6) Is it supposed to make strange noises from the motors while updating?

*Technical Curiosity:*
1) How much voltage is getting sent to the engines, anyway to see at any given time?
2) How is this car a real thing? Lol


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## GDN

Welcome to team Midnight Silver (although I now split my time with team Black). I love how so many accessories are available and people are stocked up and ready the day the car arrives. The pedals are my favorite.


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## GateFather

GDN said:


> Welcome to team Midnight Silver (although I now split my time with team Black). I love how so many accessories are available and people are stocked up and ready the day the car arrives. The pedals are my favorite.


Pedals look and feel amazing. Just took it for a spin around the block with them on and wow I love the difference. The accelerator pedal was a major pain though. Wound up letting it soak in hot water for about 15 min and then was able to get it on with the somewhat more plyable rubber.

I have trunk, frunk , and glovebox brighter lights on the way as well as the Tesla all season floor mats (trunk and trunk mats came today and are already in) and I'm seriously considering the vinyl wrap for the front consol wood... the accessories are awesome and fairly easy to do!


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## SoFlaModel3

Awesome job @GateFather. Spread it out or the mod bug will quickly bite you for expensive items when the cheaper mods are all in 



GateFather said:


> 7) Jeda wireless pad in. I have a software update that will install tonight but for now I measured the Voltags and only am getting 5.11V out of the front USB. Will look into this more tomorrow after update.


Did you measure Amps as well? Watts is the measurement of Amps x Volts. In my car that comes to 1.5 x 5 or 7.5W. I did see a claim from Nomad that Tesla upped it to 2A now, so I need to test again!



> 1) I setup my garage with homelink but for some reason even though I've set it to open and close automatically at 70 feet, it doesn't do it. It does open and close when I manually select the garage door from the homelink drop down.


When you set the location did you park your car in front of the garage? If not, park your car in front of the garage, open Homelink, and go into the settings. You don't have to reprogram the door, just look for and tap "Reset Location". If it's still not working try a closer distance. I believe I have mine set to 20 feet and it works every time!



> 2) Is there a way to have the mirrors automatically tuck in when homelink is triggered if I get that working (would be nice to have the mirrors in when pulling into garage)?


Unfortunately no on this one. My $0.02 is that if your garage is so tight that folding in the mirrors makes that much of a difference getting in then you'll struggle to open the door without banging in. I actually use the open mirror as a guide for entry into my car where I know I can open the door without banging it into the wall. Now back to tight garage though, if you use Summon to park it will put the mirrors in before moving forward and back.



> 4) If a contact has multiple numbers, is there a way to always have it call one by default without having to choose. Even if I say, for example, "Call Danielle Mobile" it prompts me fore Home, Work, Mobile etc and I have to tap mobile each time.


No, not to today anyway, but if you have a person/number that you frequently call then your fastest path may be in the Recents tab anyway.



> 5) Will summon stop if theres an obsticle in the way.....like a garage door?


 It absolutely should! If you want to test it out to help get comfortable. Try standing in front of and behind your car during Summon tests. My car always stops before hitting me when I do that 



> 6) Is it supposed to make strange noises from the motors while updating?


 Clunking sounds? Totally normal.



> 2) How is this car a real thing? Lol


 Pinch yourself everyday before mashing the go pedal!


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## GateFather

SoFlaModel3 said:


> Awesome job @GateFather. Spread it out or the mod bug will quickly bite you for expensive items when the cheaper mods are all in
> 
> Did you measure Amps as well? Watts is the measurement of Amps x Volts. In my car that comes to 1.5 x 5 or 7.5W. I did see a claim from Nomad that Tesla upped it to 2A now, so I need to test again!
> 
> When you set the location did you park your car in front of the garage? If not, park your car in front of the garage, open Homelink, and go into the settings. You don't have to reprogram the door, just look for and tap "Reset Location". If it's still not working try a closer distance. I believe I have mine set to 20 feet and it works every time!
> 
> Unfortunately no on this one. My $0.02 is that if your garage is so tight that folding in the mirrors makes that much of a difference getting in then you'll struggle to open the door without banging in. I actually use the open mirror as a guide for entry into my car where I know I can open the door without banging it into the wall. Now back to tight garage though, if you use Summon to park it will put the mirrors in before moving forward and back.
> 
> No, not to today anyway, but if you have a person/number that you frequently call then your fastest path may be in the Recents tab anyway.
> 
> It absolutely should! If you want to test it out to help get comfortable. Try standing in front of and behind your car during Summon tests. My car always stops before hitting me when I do that
> 
> Clunking sounds? Totally normal.
> 
> Pinch yourself everyday before mashing the go pedal!


Thanks! Few things. I'll remeasure the USB ports today and then the ports coming out of the hub as well. My tester does show both i just didn't notice what amps were last night. Hopefully I'm still getting 5V and at least 1.5A (should be 2).

I was sitting right outside my garage when I setup homelink and even did already do the reset location step. I haven't set it lower then 70ft though so I'll try that this morning. As far as the mirrors, the squeeze is a tight fit on the passenger side but my more flexible friends will be able to get in and out haha. Otherwise summon will be useful for me!

I have a coworker who had an experience where his car started backing out of his garage before the door was clear and very narrowly escaped a scrape/collision by jumping behind the car. Makes me a bit nervous. I've also read stories people have where the car will decide to close the door as your pulling into the garage. I'm less worried about that though as I have trip sensors that would prevent that from happening.

Oh and not clunking sounds actually. Sounded like whirring. Almost like a little mini mechanic was under there with a drill making some adjustments!

Video here.


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## MelindaV

GateFather said:


> 4) If a contact has multiple numbers, is there a way to always have it call one by default without having to choose. Even if I say, for example, "Call Danielle Mobile" it prompts me fore Home, Work, Mobile etc and I have to tap mobile each time.


You can also do it this way (for Apple): press the steering wheel button and say "hey Siri, call danielle's Mobile", and the command will go thru Bluetooth directly to the phone as a Siri command and skip the step of picking on the screen which of her phone's to call.


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## MelindaV

GateFather said:


> Oh and not clunking sounds actually. Sounded like whirring. Almost like a little mini mechanic was under there with a drill making some adjustments!
> 
> Video here.


I've not heard anything like in that video - just ticks, clunks and fans. Maybe that is a fan going all out, but sounds really loud. Maybe thru the video it's being amplified...


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## jasonm163

I can answer a few.

No way to fold in mirrors (that I know of) automatically when pulling into garage.
You can go into the settings and set the distance you want summon to actually move when you summon it. In that same setting you can set the distance to front of car objects. Like 15" or whatever you want and it will stop when it comes within 15". You can also use summon with homelink and when you summon it will open your garage door, back out, shut garage door automatically.

Yes you will hear strange noises when updating and also charging sometimes.


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## ChristianZ

GateFather said:


> Exhausted! I got a lot done tonight, and also a couple missteps. Also a few questions for the more experience folks.
> 
> *Successes:*
> 1) New pedals (very nice and comfortable)!
> View attachment 17943
> View attachment 17944
> 
> 2) USB hub + USB drive partitioned with music on one partition and cam on the other- working like a charm!
> 3) Puddle lights for front driver and passenger of the Tesla T logo - nice!
> View attachment 17942
> 
> 4) Tesla wall charger works at my home nicely
> 5) iPhone XS Max has had no issues all day. Car was ready when I was!
> 6) Vinyl wrap is in and I think it looks nice! May cover the wood panel with the same material - not sure yet.
> View attachment 17946
> View attachment 17941
> 
> 7) Jeda wireless pad in. I have a software update that will install tonight but for now I measured the Voltags and only am getting 5.11V out of the front USB. Will look into this more tomorrow after update.
> 8) Car seat in. My sons first ride tomorrow!
> View attachment 17945
> 
> 
> *Failures:*
> 1) I seem to have broken the driver and passengers footwell lights :-( - I read that there are no fuses and sometimes in 60-90 min things "reset." Well see...
> - *UPDATE 1:25AM* - saw the software update was completed so went outside just to check things out and guess what!? Footwell lights work. Looks awesome now!
> View attachment 17947
> 
> 
> *Questions:*
> 1) I setup my garage with homelink but for some reason even though I've set it to open and close automatically at 70 feet, it doesn't do it. It does open and close when I manually select the garage door from the homelink drop down.
> 2) Is there a way to have the mirrors automatically tuck in when homelink is triggered if I get that working (would be nice to have the mirrors in when pulling into garage)?
> 3) Is Eve for Tesla only for Model S and X? They have MyQ smart garage opener integration (I have those garage openers), but it seems to only be for S and X.
> 4) If a contact has multiple numbers, is there a way to always have it call one by default without having to choose. Even if I say, for example, "Call Danielle Mobile" it prompts me fore Home, Work, Mobile etc and I have to tap mobile each time.
> 5) Will summon stop if theres an obsticle in the way.....like a garage door?
> 6) Is it supposed to make strange noises from the motors while updating?
> 
> *Technical Curiosity:*
> 1) How much voltage is getting sent to the engines, anyway to see at any given time?
> 2) How is this car a real thing? Lol


Congrats on getting so much done!

How bright are your footwell lights at night? Love the blue color, but can you see? A pic would be great. 
Nice job on the center console. Happy with the quality?
Would be great to link where your upgrades came from. I'm reading reviews and getting my orders in tomorrow.

You're going to use a wireless pad instead of an iPhone holder connected to the back of the screen? That for the co-pilot? I know I'm going to continue to use Waze.

Wish I could answer any of your questions, but I don't get mine until Monday, if all goes well. 
/congrats and Happy Thanksgiving!


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## GateFather

MelindaV said:


> You can also do it this way (for Apple): press the steering wheel button and say "hey Siri, call danielle's Mobile", and the command will go thru Bluetooth directly to the phone as a Siri command and skip the step of picking on the screen which of her phone's to call.


Nice! Great idea! I'll give this a shot later today when I drive to my moms for some good eats!



MelindaV said:


> I've not heard anything like in that video - just ticks, clunks and fans. Maybe that is a fan going all out, but sounds really loud. Maybe thru the video it's being amplified...


I wouldn't have caught it if not for checking out the cameras. Not too worried. It being a new car with 0 miles when I got it; could be some initial calibration too as part of the update.



jasonm163 said:


> I can answer a few.
> No way to fold in mirrors (that I know of) automatically when pulling into garage.
> You can go into the settings and set the distance you want summon to actually move when you summon it. In that same setting you can set the distance to front of car objects. Like 15" or whatever you want and it will stop when it comes within 15". You can also use summon with homelink and when you summon it will open your garage door, back out, shut garage door automatically.
> 
> Yes you will hear strange noises when updating and also charging sometimes.


I'll have to find these settings. I was messing with summon outside my house today. So crazy seeing the car move without anyone inside.



ChristianZ said:


> Congrats on getting so much done!
> 
> How bright are your footwell lights at night? Love the blue color, but can you see? A pic would be great.
> Nice job on the center console. Happy with the quality?
> Would be great to link where your upgrades came from. I'm reading reviews and getting my orders in tomorrow.
> 
> You're going to use a wireless pad instead of an iPhone holder connected to the back of the screen? That for the co-pilot? I know I'm going to continue to use Waze.
> 
> Wish I could answer any of your questions, but I don't get mine until Monday, if all goes well.
> /congrats and Happy Thanksgiving!


The blue lights are plenty bright! Especially just as accent lighting in the footwell. Looks very sharp and is a homage to my 2006 blue 350z 

Puddle lights projecting the Tesla T looks awesome at night too.

Still have white ultra bright lights coming for frunk, trunk, and glovebox. Replacing those lights isn't too tough after you do the first one and see how they work.

I've resigned myself to google maps on the screen. It's too good of a feature and highlight of the tablet to not use. Here's to hoping Waze feature integration in the future.

I just drove 30 min with phone starting at 53%. When I got to my destination it was only at 54%. Something definitely is up. Haven't had time to check but that clearly won't work as a go forward solution. Verified phone was "charging" the entire time.

Good luck Monday, it really is an experience beyond just a car. It's like getting an amazing phone that happens to also drive you around in style (and VERY QUICKLY if you so choose)!


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## GateFather

Some additional questions:

1) Is there a way to lower/adjust the seat belt harness? I find that it's cutting into the side of my neck and it's very annoying. I sit low.

2) is there a way to have Homelink close the garage after you've pulled in?

3) should I lower the charge rate when I don't need the full 48amps?

Side note: my 3 year old son absolutely loved his ride this morning. First time sitting him forward. Back of drivers seat, not so much! Any recommendations for some type of protection that looks good? Otherwise he'll be getting shoe covers for the car haha. FYI this is with easy entry (or whatever it's called) activated so the seats farther up when driving, giving him more leg room.


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## SR22pilot

GateFather said:


> Some additional questions:
> 
> 1) Is there a way to lower/adjust the seat belt harness? I find that it's cutting into the side of my neck and it's very annoying. I sit low.
> 
> 2) is there a way to have Homelink close the garage after you've pulled in?
> 
> 3) should I lower the charge rate when I don't need the full 48amps?
> 
> Side note: my 3 year old son absolutely loved his ride this morning. First time sitting him forward. Back of drivers seat, not so much! Any recommendations for some type of protection that looks good? Otherwise he'll be getting shoe covers for the car haha. FYI this is with easy entry (or whatever it's called) activated so the seats farther up when driving, giving him more leg room.
> 
> View attachment 17961


I would be careful about using Homelink to close the garage when parking inside. You are asking for tight tolerances as to when it is safe to close. Having Homelink close the garage when leaving with a 20' setting is OK. Be aware that it is easy to mess up the cycle. For example, if you come home and the garage is open (wife just arrived) then Homelink will close it as you are driving in. If you take the car out to the driveway it may get confused as to leaving vs. getting home and where it is in the process. Just manually operate the door. It will get back in sync.


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## MelindaV

GateFather said:


> Still have white ultra bright lights coming for *frunk,* trunk, and glovebox. Replacing those lights isn't too tough after you do the first one and see how they work.


the frunk has the light integrated into the emergency release (so not the same as the other LEDs). did you find a direct replacement for it?


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## MelindaV

also, if you've not come across it yet, there is this Model 3 with Kids thread that you may be interested in


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## GateFather

MelindaV said:


> the frunk has the light integrated into the emergency release (so not the same as the other LEDs). did you find a direct replacement for it?


Ah you're correct. I have an outstanding order placed for three bulbs and figured when I placed that order a couple weeks ago it was for 1 in frunk, 1 in trunk, and 1 in glovebox. I just referenced the Abstact Ocean diagram and realize it was actually for 2 in trunk and 1 glovebox. So no frunk light replacement happening.


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## Dr. J

GateFather said:


> 1) Is there a way to lower/adjust the seat belt harness? I find that it's cutting into the side of my neck and it's very annoying. I sit low.


From the owner's manual, page 28.

Adjust the height of the shoulder anchor
if the seat belt is not positioned correctly:
1. Press and hold the button on the shoulder
anchor to release the locking mechanism.
2. While holding the button, move the
shoulder anchor up or down as necessary
so that the seat belt is positioned
correctly.
3. Release the button on the shoulder anchor
so that it locks into position.
4. Without pressing the button, pull on the
seat belt webbing and attempt to move
the shoulder anchor downwards to check
that it is locked into position.


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## Love

GateFather said:


> Some additional questions:
> 
> 1) Is there a way to lower/adjust the seat belt harness? I find that it's cutting into the side of my neck and it's very annoying. I sit low.
> 
> 2) is there a way to have Homelink close the garage after you've pulled in?
> 
> 3) should I lower the charge rate when I don't need the full 48amps?
> 
> Side note: my 3 year old son absolutely loved his ride this morning. First time sitting him forward. Back of drivers seat, not so much! Any recommendations for some type of protection that looks good? Otherwise he'll be getting shoe covers for the car haha. FYI this is with easy entry (or whatever it's called) activated so the seats farther up when driving, giving him more leg room.
> 
> View attachment 17961


Congrats on the car! Here's a thread about kick protectors. 
https://teslaownersonline.com/threads/kick-mats-for-the-rear-seat.8402/


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## GateFather

MelindaV said:


> the frunk has the light integrated into the emergency release (so not the same as the other LEDs). did you find a direct replacement for it?





MelindaV said:


> also, if you've not come across it yet, there is this Model 3 with Kids thread that you may be interested in





Dr. J said:


> From the owner's manual, page 28.
> 
> Adjust the height of the shoulder anchor
> if the seat belt is not positioned correctly:
> 1. Press and hold the button on the shoulder
> anchor to release the locking mechanism.
> 2. While holding the button, move the
> shoulder anchor up or down as necessary
> so that the seat belt is positioned
> correctly.
> 3. Release the button on the shoulder anchor
> so that it locks into position.
> 4. Without pressing the button, pull on the
> seat belt webbing and attempt to move
> the shoulder anchor downwards to check
> that it is locked into position.





Lovesword said:


> Congrats on the car! Here's a thread about kick protectors.
> https://teslaownersonline.com/threads/kick-mats-for-the-rear-seat.8402/


Wow this forum is a treasure trove of info thanks to members like you all. Thanks so much for your help and participating in what's become my Q&A thread here!


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## GateFather

Lovesword said:


> Congrats on the car! Here's a thread about kick protectors.
> https://teslaownersonline.com/threads/kick-mats-for-the-rear-seat.8402/


Just purchased! Brica Deluxe Kick Mats Auto Seat Protector, 2 Pack


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## ChristianZ

Would you mind sharing where you bought your upgrades? I think some comes from Abstract Ocean, but does all of it?


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## GateFather

ChristianZ said:


> Would you mind sharing where you bought your upgrades? I think some comes from Abstract Ocean, but does all of it?


Sure here you go:

Tesla Front Trunk and Rear Trunk all season mats here.

Tesla inside all season mats here.

Abstract Ocean Blue Footwell Lights pair, 3x ultra bright white lights for trunk (2x) and glove box (1x) here. (Might get another Blue Footwell Lights pair for rear seats)

Abstract Ocean Tesla Logo Puddle Lights pair here. (Might get 2 more or a pair of the "3" puddle lights for rear doors.)

Abstract Ocean Spudger Tool (for popping lights off) here. I wouldn't recommend this as a flat head screwdriver carefully used worked much better.

Abstract Ocean Brushed Titanium center console wrap here.

Amazon USB Hub here

Amazon flash drive for Cam+Music here. Directions for how-to here. (Hopefully this is ok as it's the "other" Tesla forum but it's super helpful)

Amazon Non-slip performance pedals here.

Amazon USB voltage and amperage tester here.

Jeda Wireless Charging Pad here.

Amazon Kick Mats (for kids) here.

I think that's it so far!


----------



## PNWmisty

GateFather said:


> I was messing with summon outside my house today. So crazy seeing the car move without anyone inside.


Summon is eerie! And my dog agrees.

I had our dog out in the carport and he thought we were going to get in the car and go on an adventure. He rarely barks, only if something is up. I used summon to silently back the car right out of the carport, away from us. He started barking, and jumping up and down and looking from me to the car to see how I was reacting to this unusual development. He knew that things just weren't "right".


----------



## GateFather

PNWmisty said:


> Summon is eerie! And my dog agrees.
> 
> I had our dog out in the carport and he thought we were going to get in the car and go on an adventure. He rarely barks, only if something is up. I used summon to silently back the car right out of the carport, away from us. He started barking, and jumping up and down and looking from me to the car to see how I was reacting to this unusual development. He knew that things just weren't "right".


Haha that's great!


----------



## SoFlaModel3

GateFather said:


> I have a coworker who had an experience where his car started backing out of his garage before the door was clear and very narrowly escaped a scrape/collision by jumping behind the car. Makes me a bit nervous. I've also read stories people have where the car will decide to close the door as your pulling into the garage. I'm less worried about that though as I have trip sensors that would prevent that from happening.


I'm very trusting when it comes to autopilot and Summon, but I won't let Summon control the garage door. I had to draw the line somewhere


----------



## GateFather

SoFlaModel3 said:


> I'm very trusting when it comes to autopilot and Summon, but I won't let Summon control the garage door. I had to draw the line somewhere


That's looking like my line, only because of all the stories I'm reading where a door almost comes down on a car still entering. Because the homelink commands are blind to the state of the garage, there's no guarantee it's going the right way. I wish there was a way to integrate my MyQ Chamberlain smart garage openers with the car but it seems only Eve for Tesla does that and it's only available on the S and X.

Pulling out to head to Thanksgiving dinner, I got a notification that the garage door was closing in 5ft, 4ft, 3ft, etc. and it closed! I may try the full integration with summon and just be ready to jump in front of it haha.


----------



## GateFather

Here are some photos of the car I took tonight showing the after market lights and vinyl I added.


----------



## MarkB

MelindaV said:


> You can also do it this way (for Apple): press the steering wheel button and say "hey Siri, call danielle's Mobile", and the command will go thru Bluetooth directly to the phone as a Siri command and skip the step of picking on the screen which of her phone's to call.


I've tried multiple times to get "Hey Siri" to work this way, and so far, no joy. Hey Siri will work fine when my iPhone (X) is on my GetJeda pad, but never if my iPhone is in my pocket.


----------



## MelindaV

You have to press the steering wheel button so the car’s mic is listening for you, not the phone’s mic


----------



## GateFather

Are you supposed to press and release the voice button or press and hold while talking. Just in general, not for Siri.


----------



## GateFather

Something awesome I found tonight. Driving home from dinner in the dark with auto-high beams on, I went around a leftward bend. No one was coming the opposite direction. Maybe I’m going crazy but it seemed to me that only the right headlight highbeam went on to light up the tree area that was there while the left headlight remained with high beams off. Is this known functionality? Just thought it was so awesome. If there were deer, I’d have seen them.


----------



## MarkB

MelindaV said:


> You have to press the steering wheel button so the car's mic is listening for you, not the phone's mic


This is what I've tried with my phone in my pocket while I try "Hey Siri".

The screen just echos my command, "Hey Siri, call my wife at home." as the speech is recognized - then "Try again".

The same command works as expected when the phone is sitting on my Jeda pad, and *I don't press the button*.


----------



## GDN

Nice to know about Hey Siri from the steering wheel, will have to try it.

Summon is fun and while demonstrating today to family not only were they impressed, they were scared when I stepped in front of the car, but it slows and stops just as it should. I have told summon to use homelink and open the door should someone ever try it in the garage, but I don't truly trust it enough just yet to be parked with the back bumped 8 inches from the door and then press the back button. Reality is that it shouldn't even move detecting the door, but I'm with @SoFlaModel3 and that is where I draw the line. I finally started using auto close (have used auto open since day 1) and it is quite accurate and I like the feature now that I've given it a shot.


----------



## MarkB

GDN said:


> I have told summon to use homelink and open the door should someone ever try it in the garage, but I don't truly trust it enough just yet to be parked with the back bumped 8 inches from the door and then press the back button.


I turned on Homelink with Summon when I first played with it (about a week now for us Canadians). Summons stopped the vehicle much farther back than I do, manually -- then the automatically triggered garage door started to go down. It would have probably hit the car had I not intervened. Homelink with Summon turned off now, until i can get it to go just a bit further forward -- either via software to garage cleaning.


----------



## GateFather

MarkB said:


> I turned on Homelink with Summon when I first played with it (about a week now for us Canadians). Summons stopped the vehicle much farther back than I do, manually -- then the automatically triggered garage door started to go down. It would have probably hit the car had I not intervened. Homelink with Summon turned off now, until i can get it to go just a bit further forward -- either via software to garage cleaning.


I'm trying to figure out what some of these customize summon options are and how they work with the homelink options. In homelink I have checked to open doors with 50ft and close them too. That's been working no problem now (and is awesome).










1) What does bumper clearance do? Stop the car automatically at the distance set? So If I want the car to pull into my garage and leave 12 in the front I'd set as above?

2) What is summon distance? Is this how far the car will go maximum? You do still need to hold down the direction correct? Or is there a way to just click summon and the car auto opens garage door and pulls out while not holding down anything in the app? Is this the Require continuous press option?

3) Side Clearance? What does this do?

4) us auto home link? Is this what allows summon to open/close the garage?

So to equate what I'd like to try to have summon do, let me first explain how I do it manually

*Pulling out of garage:*
1) Open garage door. My garage is tight on the right side.
2) Back out.

*Pulling into garage:*
1) Open garage door.
2) Pull forward to 12 inches and stop

*So options would be:*
Bumper Clearance: *12 in*,
Summon Distance: *40 ft* (more than enough assuming it's a maximum distance and will land car on driveway when pulling out)
Side clearance: *Tight*,
Require continuous press: *No* (I'd like to see if it will automatically do it)
Use Auto Homelink: *Yes*
Pray?: *Yes *


----------



## SR22pilot

GateFather said:


> I'm trying to figure out what some of these customize summon options are and how they work with the homelink options. In homelink I have checked to open doors with 50ft and close them too. That's been working no problem now (and is awesome).
> 
> 1) What does bumper clearance do?
> 
> 2) What is summon distance?
> 
> 3) Side Clearance? What does this do?
> 
> 4) us auto home link? Is this what allows summon to open/close the garage?


1) Yes, stop this distance from the object. 
2) Correct. If no object in front or back is detected then stop after this distance.
3) Don't get closer on the sides than this. If you try to pull into a space and this clearance can't be maintained, the car will stop. 
4) Yes. I lack the nerve to try this. If garage openers had separate open and close commands I might feel differently. I love how my Tesla closes the garage when I leave for work and opens it when I get home but I have also had the system mess up such as when I was coming home and the garage was open. The Tesla closed it as I was pulling into the driveway. Fortunately, I was ready since I expected that to happen.


----------



## GateFather

Just got in my car for the fourth time today after making various stops for errands and when I put the car into drive I got all of these notifications at once.










Anyone have any idea about this and why it happened?


----------



## MelindaV

read thru these threads and see if similar
https://teslaownersonline.com/threads/model-3-multiple-alerts-and-unable-to-drive.7183/#post-114146
https://teslaownersonline.com/threads/traction-control-aeb-cruise-control-got-disabled.7619/


----------



## GateFather

MelindaV said:


> read thru these threads and see if similar
> https://teslaownersonline.com/threads/model-3-multiple-alerts-and-unable-to-drive.7183/#post-114146
> https://teslaownersonline.com/threads/traction-control-aeb-cruise-control-got-disabled.7619/


 I reported error message to tesla via the car and then did suck down and power back up and everything went away. I'm guessing the Tesla service center is closed today because every time I try to connect to service the call is disconnected. I would still call them on Monday to ask what they think but unless it happens again I'll chalk that up to a glitch and Move On.


----------



## Dr. J

GateFather said:


> I reported error message to tesla via the car and then did suck down and power back up and everything went away. I'm guessing the Tesla service center is closed today because every time I try to connect to service the call is disconnected. I would still call them on Monday to ask what they think but unless it happens again I'll chalk that up to a glitch and Move On.


Was regen (and the other stuff) really disabled? Regen you would notice right away.


----------



## GateFather

Dr. J said:


> Was regen (and the other stuff) really disabled? Regen you would notice right away.


Oh yeah it was. I drove a bit and it felt like i was gliding after taking my foot off of the pedal. Even after only a couple of days with the model 3, the sensation of continuing to move forward without any breaking when letting off the accelerator was weird. The fix worked so all is good there....for now....

In other news I picked up some things today to finish my quest for fast charging. Jeda was a no-go. The wireless pads output only 5V and 1A each despite Jeda's info to me that they should provide 7.5W with each front USB now sending 2A. While that latter is true, when I plugged my USB tester into the front USB and ran an output to a Jeda input, I saw only 5V and 1A going to the iPhone XS Max. Too slow for car charging.

In my previous car I used this belkin 36W charger. That, paired with a 2 meter USB-C to Lightning cable, here, provide VERY fast charging. I went out today and picked up 1 more of each. I also got one of these 12V splitters.

Unfortunately the 12v charger and cable combo is $65, and the 12v splitter is $9 (not bad) , so I'm putting a little bit of a crazy amount of money into making sure me and my wife/passenger can fast charge.

Anyways, it was time to run the cables to the front area, and so I followed the center console sides removal instructions here and ran the cords, hidden, to the front USB area (ignore the wireless charger part).

Turned out nice and wasn't difficult at all! Some photos. Now I have 2x 36W Lightning cables up front. I also have a USB-C to USB-C cable for anyone who may ride with me with a USB-C charge port phone. Some pics below of the final product. The cables are taken out just to show how its plugged in. Everything is now hidden.








q










The primary downside is that these don't have 90 degree bends at the end to fit perfect. Its still not difficult to click your phone in and the extra couple seconds to tinker with it to connect it up is worth the massive charge benefit IMO.

After that I took these Seat Gap Fillers I had in my previous car and put them in the Model 3. Saw them on shark tank and purchased them maybe a year ago. They don't look bad at all with the black interior. While I don't plan to eat in the car, we all know for most of us that rule goes out the window at some point. These are also great for not dropping your phone or other things you may put on your lap.


----------



## AutopilotFan

If your seatbelt is still strangling you after you adjust the anchor all the way down, try these clips: 
I'm using one and like it a lot. You have to adjust it every time you put on the seatbelt but you can then get the shoulder strap _exactly_ where you want it.


----------



## JasonF

GateFather said:


> Anyone have any idea about this and why it happened?


In most cars nowadays (even ICE ones) any cascading errors involving the ABS/traction/stability control system means the 12 volt battery is weak or low. In some of them it can mean a taillight is out, but those are usually ones with non-LED taillights that use the circuit resistance to see if you're on the brakes. In rare cases, it could be the brake pedal switch. In any case, it means the system can't determine with certainty if you're using the brakes (which is why regen is affected too).

In Teslas for some reason errors tend to hang around even after they've been resolved, so it's possible your 12v battery charged itself while you were driving, and the reboot make the errors go away.


----------



## GateFather

AutopilotFan said:


> If your seatbelt is still strangling you after you adjust the anchor all the way down, try these clips:
> I'm using one and like it a lot. You have to adjust it every time you put on the seatbelt but you can then get the shoulder strap _exactly_ where you want it.


Thanks but lowering the harness worked worked well.



JasonF said:


> In most cars nowadays (even ICE ones) any cascading errors involving the ABS/traction/stability control system means the 12 volt battery is weak or low. In some of them it can mean a taillight is out, but those are usually ones with non-LED taillights that use the circuit resistance to see if you're on the brakes. In rare cases, it could be the brake pedal switch. In any case, it means the system can't determine with certainty if you're using the brakes (which is why regen is affected too).
> 
> In Teslas for some reason errors tend to hang around even after they've been resolved, so it's possible your 12v battery charged itself while you were driving, and the reboot make the errors go away.


Got it. I'll keep an eye. Hoping I didn't throw something out of whack when putting the new pedals on. Haven't seen it again since then and I gave a bunch of family drive demos yesterday at a family party.

Couple small questions for everyone:

1) Does regenerative breaking also automatically put the break lights on? I'm assuming it does but just want to be sure. As I'm learning to use the regenerative breaking well (release in time to stop at a light/stop sign etc), I probably look like a crazy person with the breaks lights constantly going on and off.

2) Does everyone else's wall charger let out a loud click when it begins charging?

3) Will having two iPhones charging at max power impact range in a noticeable way? I don't know how many amps they're pulling but they're getting 12V and 3A max each.


----------



## FRC

1) Yes, heavy regen prompts brake lights. Lighter regen probably not. Pretty well mimics brake light activity under non-regen driving. It's not real easy to see but if you look at the image of your car on the screen, the brakes light up when they are lit outside.
2) Don't know.
3) absolutely not.


----------



## SR22pilot

GateFather said:


> Thanks but lowering the harness worked worked well.
> 
> Got it. I'll keep an eye. Hoping I didn't throw something out of whack when putting the new pedals on. Haven't seen it again since then and I gave a bunch of family drive demos yesterday at a family party.
> 
> Couple small questions for everyone:
> 
> 1) Does regenerative breaking also automatically put the break lights on? I'm assuming it does but just want to be sure. As I'm learning to use the regenerative breaking well (release in time to stop at a light/stop sign etc), I probably look like a crazy person with the breaks lights constantly going on and off.
> 
> 2) Does everyone else's wall charger let out a loud click when it begins charging?
> 
> 3) Will having two iPhones charging at max power impact range in a noticeable way? I don't know how many amps they're pulling but they're getting 12V and 3A max each.


1) Yes

2) Yes

3) No. They are at 5V and at best a few hundred mA. Probably something like 2 WH per hour. If 5 WH for 2 phones then you could charge for something like 15,000 hours before running the battery down. I think I got the math correct.


----------



## GateFather

SR22pilot said:


> 1) Yes
> 
> 2) Yes
> 
> 3) No. They are at 5V and at best a few hundred mA. Probably something like 2 WH per hour. If 5 WH for 2 phones then you could charge for something like 15,000 hours before running the battery down. I think I got the math correct.


My phones are charging faster than that. They're using 36W USB-C chargers from the 12V socket split into two. See a couple of my posts ago. They're likely not pulling the full 36W, they're likely pulling whatever the iPhone XS Max max allows. Maybe 20W or so each. But even then, I see it wouldn't be significant.


----------



## SR22pilot

GateFather said:


> My phones are charging faster than that. They're using 36W USB-C chargers from the 12V socket split into two. See a couple of my posts ago. They're likely not pulling the full 36W, they're likely pulling whatever the iPhone XS Max max allows. Maybe 20W or so each. But even then, I see it wouldn't be significant.


Yes, but they won't charge forever. Once your phone gets charged it is more about power consumption from the phone being on. The phone does't draw that much power. The GPS will increase power drain if in use. The screen being on and bright is probably the biggest potential issue. All are minor compared to how huge the car battery is. Heating the car in winter is a different issue.


----------



## GateFather

SR22pilot said:


> Yes, but they won't charge forever. Once your phone gets charged it is more about power consumption from the phone being on. The phone does't draw that much power. The GPS will increase power drain if in use. The screen being on and bright is probably the biggest potential issue. All are minor compared to how huge the car battery is. Heating the car in winter is a different issue.


Yeah one of my biggest issues so far is not knowing the real range at any given time. So many things factor into the range that I see why it's hard for the car to be accurate. I've started the lady few days with about 248 miles of charge (80%) and wound up with 100 miles of range left at the end of the day. I've driven a good mount but definitely not 150 miles. It's cold in NJ where I've been so I have to assume there's some range being lost there. I'm also driving a bit more....fun.... when safe to do so since this car is so new to me and it's just so fun to drive.


----------



## SR22pilot

I don’t know what phone you have but I bet the battery is smaller than 3AH. It will probably run for about 13 hours or more on that with mixed use. So again somewhere in the 15,000 hour range for 2 phones.


----------



## GateFather

I put out my Christmas decorations this morning and needed to move the Tesla to get some of them. Being dirty from putting some others up, I didn’t want to get in the car to move it. Summon to the rescue. So awesome having a car that can pull itself in and out of the garage!


----------



## Dr. J

GateFather said:


> I'm also driving a bit more....fun.... when safe to do so since this car is so new to me and it's just so fun to drive.


That will eat up range and (apparently) rear tire tread, but hey, it's what the car is for! Any time you want to conserve range, just slow down, accelerate smoothly and avoid acceleration/regen yoyoing by using the feedback provided. Autopilot/TACC is not good at this, in my experience.


----------



## JasonF

GateFather said:


> 1) Does regenerative breaking also automatically put the break lights on? I'm assuming it does but just want to be sure. As I'm learning to use the regenerative breaking well (release in time to stop at a light/stop sign etc), I probably look like a crazy person with the breaks lights constantly going on and off.


You can see the brake lights on the icon of your car in screen, so that's easy to test.



GateFather said:


> 3) Will having two iPhones charging at max power impact range in a noticeable way? I don't know how many amps they're pulling but they're getting 12V and 3A max each.


Not good with math, but an online calculator I found says that's 36 watts. That would be 0.036 kw/h additional comsumption, not including losses from the voltage conversion. And that's worst case, because the phones will eventually switch to trickle charge, which is something like a tenth of that.


----------



## GateFather

FRC said:


> 1) Yes, heavy regen prompts brake lights. Lighter regen probably not. Pretty well mimics brake light activity under non-regen driving. It's not real easy to see but if you look at the image of your car on the screen, the brakes light up when they are lit outside.





JasonF said:


> You can see the brake lights on the icon of your car in screen, so that's easy to test.


Wow thanks to you both. Didn't even realize that!


----------



## FRC

I think I first noticed after about six weeks!!


----------



## FRC

You might take a look at the thread "unexpected learnings or surprises". There are several obscure nuggets to be found there.


----------



## GateFather

FRC said:


> You might take a look at the thread "unexpected learnings or surprises". There are several obscure nuggets to be found there.


Will check it out thanks!


----------



## Tez Mod 3 Ball

I've got the same exact build coming 2nd Week of December. Just ordered yesterday. Will name her after I get to know her a little. My car in High School was actually called Nicki lol, well Nicolette but I called her Nicki for short. Only thing I didn't spring for is EAP. Plan on getting Console wrap in matte black, wireless charger pad, pedals and possibly the brighter package of LED's for truck, glove box, footwells, etc. I'm sure there will be others but that is the plan to start. I may get the wall charger at some point but going to install a NEMA 14-50 outlet in my garage for starters.

Good luck with her brother. She's a good looking car!!!


----------



## GateFather

Tez Mod 3 Ball said:


> I've got the same exact build coming 2nd Week of December. Just ordered yesterday. Will name her after I get to know her a little. My car in High School was actually called Nicki lol, well Nicolette but I called her Nicki for short. Only thing I didn't spring for is EAP. Plan on getting Console wrap in matte black, wireless charger pad, pedals and possibly the brighter package of LED's for truck, glove box, footwells, etc. I'm sure there will be others but that is the plan to start. I may get the wall charger at some point but going to install a NEMA 14-50 outlet in my garage for starters.
> 
> Good luck with her brother. She's a good looking car!!!


Congrats! It's a beautiful car. As nice as it looks, it's drives even better. I constantly look forward to getting inside and going.


----------



## GateFather

Can anyone point me in the direction of aftermarket charging pad replacements. Not wireless, just a nicer replacement for the silicon/rubber mat that the phones sit on. I swear I’ve seen folks with ones that say Tesla but can find anything other than wireless charging mats. As I’ve said here, I’m ditching the Jeda for tethered fast charging.


----------



## MelindaV

GateFather said:


> Can anyone point me in the direction of aftermarket charging pad replacements. Not wireless, just a nicer replacement for the silicon/rubber mat that the phones sit on. I swear I've seen folks with ones that say Tesla but can find anything other than wireless charging mats. As I've said here, I'm ditching the Jeda for tethered fast charging.


for wired, I've only ever seen people use the stock rubber pad Tesla provides with the car.


----------



## SR22pilot

GateFather said:


> Can anyone point me in the direction of aftermarket charging pad replacements. Not wireless, just a nicer replacement for the silicon/rubber mat that the phones sit on. I swear I've seen folks with ones that say Tesla but can find anything other than wireless charging mats. As I've said here, I'm ditching the Jeda for tethered fast charging.


I haven't see a pad replacement but there are spacers that allow using a phone that has a case on it. If you have a 3D printer the files are on Thingverse.


----------



## GateFather

MelindaV said:


> for wired, I've only ever seen people use the stock rubber pad Tesla provides with the car.


Ok - I swear I've seen one with Red "TESLA" across the top. Maybe it was a wireless pad.



SR22pilot said:


> I haven't see a pad replacement but there are spacers that allow using a phone that has a case on it. If you have a 3D printer the files are on Thingverse.


Saw these on Etsy actually! Pretty cool but since I don't use a case (I use a sleeve), not too much use for me. Thanks for calling it out though!

Would love to see some aftermarket mats for the charging area. It would be awesome to see one with an ingressed Tesla T in chrome in the middle. Hmm maybe I just found a gap in the market! haha


----------



## MelindaV

GateFather said:


> I swear I've seen one with Red "TESLA" across the top. Maybe it was a wireless pad


or the letters were added maybe


----------



## GateFather

Question: when routing a long trip, I almost always wind up with a Supercharger stop where I’ll arrive with 5% or there about. Is there a way for me to change a setting somewhere so that it won’t route me arriving anywhere with under 10%? 5% is way too low based on how I’ve seen the miles remaining fall off. I’ve gone from 280 miles to 60 miles in a day while only having driven 150 miles.


----------



## garsh

GateFather said:


> Question: when routing a long trip, I almost always wind up with a Supercharger stop where I'll arrive with 5% or there about. Is there a way for me to change a setting somewhere so that it won't route me arriving anywhere with under 10%?


Quick, flippant answer: drive more slowly.

Somewhat better answer: Try http://abetterrouteplanner.com. You can tweak the behavior to tell it how low you'd like to go, and adjust the consumption to be closer to what you actually see. Compared to Tesla's route planning, it suggests more frequent supercharger stops and less wait time at each one.


----------



## FRC

I'm unaware of any such setting. My normal routine during any supercharging stop on a trip is to determine where my next supercharging stop will be, what expected usage will be to get there, and how much remaining range I'm comfortable with. This info helps me to decide how long to charge. I never leave my current supercharger without knowing where my next supercharger is, and I rarely travel more than 150 miles between charging stops. I leave by the credo "travel on the bottom 50% of your battery" to minimize charging time.


----------



## GateFather

garsh said:


> Quick, flippant answer: drive more slowly.
> 
> Somewhat better answer: Try http://abetterrouteplanner.com. You can tweak the behavior to tell it how low you'd like to go, and adjust the consumption to be closer to what you actually see. Compared to Tesla's route planning, it suggests more frequent supercharger stops and less wait time at each one.


I figured that was the answer. It being new and having given so many family members and friends rides over the last week I've definitely been driving faster than I normally will. But that doesn't mean I'm not gonna "make a yellow" now and again


----------



## MelindaV

GateFather said:


> Question: when routing a long trip, I almost always wind up with a Supercharger stop where I'll arrive with 5% or there about. Is there a way for me to change a setting somewhere so that it won't route me arriving anywhere with under 10%? 5% is way too low based on how I've seen the miles remaining fall off. I've gone from 280 miles to 60 miles in a day while only having driven 150 miles.


Besides @garsh's suggestions to try another ev router before your trip (or slow down  ), the on-board nav tried to suggest the quickest trip. It often tells you to only charge for x minutes, which will be just enough to get to the next charger, making it so you always get to that next charger with a low charge so it will recharge at the max rate. But to make that work, it assumes you are not speeding or don't have other range lowering impacts. You can just stay plugged in a little longer than it recommends and watch the estimated % remaining at destination before you leave that supercharger, adding more to get to a % remaining you are comfortable with knowing your recent extra losses.
Tesla also has an online trip planner that uses similar logic to the in car, if you want to test things out from your computer https://www.tesla.com/trips
And other useful road trip tips https://www.tesla.com/support/travel-tips-your-tesla


----------



## GDN

I really like the new energy graphs. I know they've been there a month, but I only used them for the first time this past weekend. The issue is I prefer the second one for "Trip" but it won't display if you don't have a destination in the navigation. I know that it calculates to the destination, but I just want it to show me that linear scale based on my recent driving habits. Give me a line that mimics the estimated miles based on the raw perfect world number shown on the left side of the screen up by the battery icon, then show me a line for estimated miles based on current driving habits, temperature, use of HVAC, etc. It doesn't have to end at the "Destination" just show me the two lines, perfect world vs real world.


----------



## GDN

Looking back on your thread I was thinking it might be better at this time if you renamed it to reflect your car and story and we move it to "Tesla Experiences". There are several individual car story threads there and it is likely more appropriate. Yours, like many others, has some generic information good to all, but is really more your journey and car history. You can change the name, I'll let you do that, but you can't move it. I can do that for you.


----------



## GateFather

GDN said:


> Looking back on your thread I was thinking it might be better at this time if you renamed it to reflect your car and story and we move it to "Tesla Experiences". There are several individual car story threads there and it is likely more appropriate. Yours, like many others, has some generic information good to all, but is really more your journey and car history. You can change the name, I'll let you do that, but you can't move it. I can do that for you.


Sounds good to me - I'm all for good forum organization. This thread and others have been incredibly helpful. Hopefully the new title is fitting  "*The early adventures of "Excelsior"!*


----------



## GateFather

MelindaV said:


> Besides @garsh's suggestions to try another ev router before your trip (or slow down  ), the on-board nav tried to suggest the quickest trip. It often tells you to only charge for x minutes, which will be just enough to get to the next charger, making it so you always get to that next charger with a low charge so it will recharge at the max rate. But to make that work, it assumes you are not speeding or don't have other range lowering impacts. You can just stay plugged in a little longer than it recommends and watch the estimated % remaining at destination before you leave that supercharger, adding more to get to a % remaining you are comfortable with knowing your recent extra losses.
> Tesla also has an online trip planner that uses similar logic to the in car, if you want to test things out from your computer https://www.tesla.com/trips
> And other useful road trip tips https://www.tesla.com/support/travel-tips-your-tesla


Thanks for this info - added these links to my Tesla home screen folder on my iPhone. Should come in handy. Really wish they integrated Waze into the screen and/or gave more options as far as minimum charge on arrival etc. Not a complaint - just a feature request!



GDN said:


> I really like the new energy graphs. I know they've been there a month, but I only used them for the first time this past weekend. The issue is I prefer the second one for "Trip" but it won't display if you don't have a destination in the navigation. I know that it calculates to the destination, but I just want it to show me that linear scale based on my recent driving habits. Give me a line that mimics the estimated miles based on the raw perfect world number shown on the left side of the screen up by the battery icon, then show me a line for estimated miles based on current driving habits, temperature, use of HVAC, etc. It doesn't have to end at the "Destination" just show me the two lines, perfect world vs real world.


I've been struggling to understand the graphs a bit. At a high level, I understand that orange/red or above 0 is *using *electricity and green or below 0 is *putting back* electricity. Even though I use regenerative breaking often I get no green lines like I see in others' graphs. Why would this be? I would expect that every slow down should show at least a green dip, but it doesn't. What am I missing there?


----------



## GDN

GateFather said:


> Thanks for this info - added these links to my Tesla home screen folder on my iPhone. Should come in handy. Really wish they integrated Waze into the screen and/or gave more options as far as minimum charge on arrival etc. Not a complaint - just a feature request!
> 
> I've been struggling to understand the graphs a bit. At a high level, I understand that orange/red or above 0 is *using *electricity and green or below 0 is *putting back* electricity. Even though I use regenerative breaking often I get no green lines like I see in others' graphs. Why would this be? I would expect that every slow down should show at least a green dip, but it doesn't. What am I missing there?


I'm with you on the first graph, I haven't studied it or used it, doesn't make very quick sense to me. The second graph however @SoFlaModel3 had posted pictures of a couple weeks back on his trip, it started to make sense and then this weekend on my own 200 mile journey it was like a light bulb. Maybe even one of the best parts of v9 so far. My problem with it as already noted, it only works if you have a destination in the nav and I get why, but it could also project your current battery mileage very easily without a destination, just graph perfect world against real world current driving and weather conditions.


----------



## MelindaV

GateFather said:


> Not a complaint - just a feature request!


you can send tesla requests any time from your car with the "bug report" voice recording tool. it works not only to say you encountered an issue, but for suggestions to them as well.
see this thread for more info...


----------



## MelindaV

GateFather said:


> I've been struggling to understand the graphs a bit. At a high level, I understand that orange/red or above 0 is *using *electricity and green or below 0 is *putting back* electricity. Even though I use regenerative breaking often I get no green lines like I see in others' graphs. Why would this be? I would expect that every slow down should show at least a green dip, but it doesn't. What am I missing there?


I actually find the first graph very useful/interesting. it is also constantly updating the 'baseline' (with the per mile rate shown on the left). 
The baseline also changes based on if you are looking at the last 5/15/30 miles. 
With the up/down line tracking your energy consumption over the last 5/15/30 miles. When above that line, you are using more than the current baseline, when below you are using less. The line will change to green when below 0 wH/mile used. You can be slowing down and still using energy, so that is why it does not immediately turn to green when you let up on the accelerator. 
The number on the right is showing your estimated range at your current rate. You can check this against the range shown on the left hand panel (battery) to see if you are doing as well as the car's set range, better or worse. 
I've only used the second graph on long trips, and only flipping to it for a second to see if my line is above or below the car's estimated line. On daily trips, it doesn't seem that useful - with the actual line being so close to the estimated you can't really get the scope of it like on a few hour long drive.

@GDN - why not just set a destination? I almost always have a destination set, short of going the mile to the local grocery store. but if I am starting a drive that will be at least 15 minutes or so, I set it. (granted, I do not use the navigation volume, so if you like to have nav instructions turned on, this probably would drive you crazy on known drives).


----------



## GDN

MelindaV said:


> ...........
> The number on the right is showing your estimated range at your current rate. You can check this against the range shown on the left hand panel (battery) to see if you are doing as well as the car's set range, better or worse.
> 
> ...........
> 
> @GDN - why not just set a destination? I almost always have a destination set, short of going the mile to the local grocery store. but if I am starting a drive that will be at least 15 minutes or so, I set it. (granted, I do not use the navigation volume, so if you like to have nav instructions turned on, this probably would drive you crazy on known drives).


Thanks @MelindaV , helps me understand that graph as well. And just maybe that number I want from the second "trip" graph is the number you point out is really also on the first one. Obviously I need to dig in and understand these, my answer may be right in front of me if I'd look at it.

Thanks,


----------



## GateFather

MelindaV said:


> I actually find the first graph very useful/interesting. it is also constantly updating the 'baseline' (with the per mile rate shown on the left).
> The baseline also changes based on if you are looking at the last 5/15/30 miles.
> With the up/down line tracking your energy consumption over the last 5/15/30 miles. When above that line, you are using more than the current baseline, when below you are using less. The line will change to green when below 0 wH/mile used. You can be slowing down and still using energy, so that is why it does not immediately turn to green when you let up on the accelerator.
> The number on the right is showing your estimated range at your current rate. You can check this against the range shown on the left hand panel (battery) to see if you are doing as well as the car's set range, better or worse.
> I've only used the second graph on long trips, and only flipping to it for a second to see if my line is above or below the car's estimated line. On daily trips, it doesn't seem that useful - with the actual line being so close to the estimated you can't really get the scope of it like on a few hour long drive.
> 
> @GDN - why not just set a destination? I almost always have a destination set, short of going the mile to the local grocery store. but if I am starting a drive that will be at least 15 minutes or so, I set it. (granted, I do not use the navigation volume, so if you like to have nav instructions turned on, this probably would drive you crazy on known drives).


Very helpful! Thanks. Only remaining question is how is this possible:



MelindaV said:


> You can be slowing down and still using energy, so that is why it does not immediately turn to green when you let up on the accelerator.


Are you saying if you have A/C or Heat blasting, music up, heated seats on, etc. that even regen won't add back to the battery?


----------



## Bokonon

GateFather said:


> Are you saying if you have A/C or Heat blasting, music up, heated seats on, etc. that even regen won't add back to the battery?


All the graph is showing is net energy usage per distance traveled, regardless of how that energy was consumed or replenished over that distance. Positive numbers (orange) indicate that energy was drawn from the battery pack over a given distance, while negative numbers (green) indicate that energy was replenished to the battery pack.

In practice, the only time you'll really see green is if you're driving down a big hill or slowing down from highway speeds with regen. This is because climate control, accessories, and the car's electronics all consume some amount of power regardless of how fast you're going. In order for the graph to go negative (green), regenerative braking needs to recover more energy than the car has used over a given distance. Otherwise, the graph will show positive (orange) energy used.

For example, suppose you drove down a long, steep grade, and over the course of a mile, regenerative braking recovered 150 watt-hours (Wh) of energy. Over that same distance, the car's climate-control system, electronics, etc. consumed 50 Wh. Your net energy consumption for that mile would be (50 Wh used) - (150 Wh recovered) = -100 Wh, and your energy graph would show a consumption rate of -100 Wh/mile (green) for that distance, indicating a net energy gain to the battery pack.

Now suppose you're driving down a less-steep grade, and over the course of a mile, regenerative braking recovered only 20 Wh of energy. Over that same distance, climate-control, electronics, etc. consume 50 Wh. Your net energy consumption for this mile would be (50 Wh used) - (20 Wh recovered) = 30 Wh, and your energy graph would show a consumption rate of 30 Wh/mile (orange) for that distance, indicating a net energy draw from the battery pack. In other words, even though you're recovering energy through regen, you're not recovering enough to cover the rest of the car's energy consumption.

BTW, we've got a whole thread on the energy graphs if you're interested in learning more about how they work. It also answers some of the common questions about understanding the graph, like, "Why do I have these huge spikes in my graph?" You can check it out here:

V9 Features: Energy Display


----------



## PNWmisty

Bokonon said:


> Now suppose you're driving down a less-steep grade, and over the course of a mile, regenerative braking recovered only 20 Wh of energy. Over that same distance, climate-control, electronics, etc. consume 50 Wh. Your net energy consumption for this mile would be (50 Wh used) - (20 Wh recovered) = 30 Wh, and your energy graph would show a consumption rate of 30 Wh/mile (orange) for that distance, indicating a net energy draw from the battery pack. In other words, even though you're recovering energy through regen, you're not recovering enough to cover the rest of the car's energy consumption.


That's true but, to put things into perspective, it doesn't take a very steep grade to overcome all the cars accessories under typical conditions. Heat is the big one but, in my experience, if you have recirculate "on" and it's not an arctic front, the heater is not running very hard once the cabin is conditioned to a comfortable temperature and a small amount of regen is all it takes to have net zero energy consumption. In an ICE car, gradual downgrades are handled by engine braking. This is the kind of downgrade that's enough to supply a reasonable amount of regen to offset accessory usage (depending upon how much stuff you have on because it all adds up).


----------



## GateFather

Bokonon said:


> All the graph is showing is net energy usage per distance traveled, regardless of how that energy was consumed or replenished over that distance. Positive numbers (orange) indicate that energy was drawn from the battery pack over a given distance, while negative numbers (green) indicate that energy was replenished to the battery pack.
> 
> In practice, the only time you'll really see green is if you're driving down a big hill or slowing down from highway speeds with regen. This is because climate control, accessories, and the car's electronics all consume some amount of power regardless of how fast you're going. In order for the graph to go negative (green), regenerative braking needs to recover more energy than the car has used over a given distance. Otherwise, the graph will show positive (orange) energy used.
> 
> For example, suppose you drove down a long, steep grade, and over the course of a mile, regenerative braking recovered 150 watt-hours (Wh) of energy. Over that same distance, the car's climate-control system, electronics, etc. consumed 50 Wh. Your net energy consumption for that mile would be (50 Wh used) - (150 Wh recovered) = -100 Wh, and your energy graph would show a consumption rate of -100 Wh/mile (green) for that distance, indicating a net energy gain to the battery pack.
> 
> Now suppose you're driving down a less-steep grade, and over the course of a mile, regenerative braking recovered only 20 Wh of energy. Over that same distance, climate-control, electronics, etc. consume 50 Wh. Your net energy consumption for this mile would be (50 Wh used) - (20 Wh recovered) = 30 Wh, and your energy graph would show a consumption rate of 30 Wh/mile (orange) for that distance, indicating a net energy draw from the battery pack. In other words, even though you're recovering energy through regen, you're not recovering enough to cover the rest of the car's energy consumption.
> 
> BTW, we've got a whole thread on the energy graphs if you're interested in learning more about how they work. It also answers some of the common questions about understanding the graph, like, "Why do I have these huge spikes in my graph?" You can check it out here:
> 
> V9 Features: Energy Display


Awesome - thanks for the great detail. Completely understand now.


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## GateFather

Couple new additions tonight. Really loving how it came out! Couple scares where I almost lost the cable in the door!


----------



## GateFather

Some questions on EAP.

I understand that FSD is not currently legal and so the car prompts for light pressure on the wheel. I find that even if I’m holding the wheel while using navigate on autopilot or just enhanced auto pilot with auto steer on that it often doesn’t register my hands. I usually have to grip the wheel in multiple spots multiple times before the blue flashing and beeping go away.

1) Is there a “right” place to apply pressure or is the entire wheel supposed to be able to pick it up?

2) If you basically need to hold the wheel now anyways, what’s the purpose of auto steer? If I’m already holding it, I might as well just steer myself, no?

3) I tested the functionality of what happens if you don’t apply pressure to the wheel when prompted on an empty road late one night. It did slow me down to a stop and put the 4 ways on but it didn’t pull into the shoulder. It just stopped in the middle of the road. I was in the left lane of a 2 lane highway. (I had visibility for miles backwards, only stopped for a second, and no one was coming). Is it supposed to pull into the shoulder? Stopping in the middle of the highway seems more dangerous than not. Especially at night. It didn’t let me re-enable EAP for the rest of that drive.


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## MelindaV

GateFather said:


> Some questions on EAP.
> 
> I understand that FSD is not currently legal and so the car prompts for light pressure on the wheel. I find that even if I'm holding the wheel while using navigate on autopilot or just enhanced auto pilot with auto steer on that it often doesn't register my hands. I usually have to grip the wheel in multiple spots multiple times before the blue flashing and beeping go away.
> 
> 1) Is there a "right" place to apply pressure or is the entire wheel supposed to be able to pick it up?
> 
> 2) If you basically need to hold the wheel now anyways, what's the purpose of auto steer? If I'm already holding it, I might as well just steer myself, no?
> 
> 3) I tested the functionality of what happens if you don't apply pressure to the wheel when prompted on an empty road late one night. It did slow me down to a stop and put the 4 ways on but it didn't pull into the shoulder. It just stopped in the middle of the road. I was in the left lane of a 2 lane highway. (I had visibility for miles backwards, only stopped for a second, and no one was coming). Is it supposed to pull into the shoulder? Stopping in the middle of the highway seems more dangerous than not. Especially at night. It didn't let me re-enable EAP for the rest of that drive.


1) The wheel doesn't look for squeezed 'grip' pressure, but torque on the rotation. In the couple months I've been using it, I've never gotten the nag. I normally have a hand (or both) lightly on the wheel, if it feels too close to an adjacent car/truck will lightly pull it right/left. But most times I am not putting any pressure on it at all, just ready to.
(It is not that we don't have fsd because it is not yet legal and that is what is requiring the handholding, it is the system is not level 4-5 yet. It is level 2 at best, which does require an attentive driver. The handholding is what tesla has chosen to use to make sure you are attentive (at least at this point).
2) The difference, just like the speed control, the car is able to see much more than you can, so you are there to make sure it doesn't do something dumb (like swerve right to fill the gap when there isn't dashes at the end of a merge lane) but even with your hand lightly on the wheel, it is less of a strain.


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## FRC

Over time I would say that I have begun to use autosteer only in longer drive, happy with the lane I'm in situations. Whether that be 70 mph interstate or bumper to bumper stop and go. I'm finding autosteer less useful(to me) in around town traffic lights, stop signs, cars turning onto or off of roadway kind of scenarios. As for hands on wheel warnings, I'm happy with my solution. Hands on wheel is a misnomer, any activity that the car perceives as an attentive driver will suffice. I've seen one guy who flips the right stalk downward to end the warning. I think you could fiddle with the radio, turn on wipers, or increase/decrease TACC speed with scroll wheel. I do this: I use easy exit setting for seat and steering wheel positions. I now drive with the wheel extended as far toward me and downward as possible(labelled cruising position). This allows me to rest my left hand lightly on the bottom of the wheel directly left of the bottom spoke. My right hand is usually on the console unengaged with steering. Occasionally, or when prompted by the hands on wheel warning, I give the wheel a slight tug/or push to let it know I'm there. This tug is not strong enough to move the car or to disengage autosteer, but lets the car know I'm there. This is comfortable and works well for me. Over time you and others will find a method that works too. As for your experiment where the car stopped in the roadway. I suppose that the engineers decided that stopped in the roadway w/flashers is the safest solution that will work in all situations. I don't think the car is programmed to know what is outside that shoulder line(a cliff?). And remember, autosteer is still in beta and may be tweaked further.


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## GateFather

Thanks @FRC and @MelindaV! I didn't realize it wasn't just pressure. I'll try some other things. Funny because occasionally my "light pressure" turned into a panicked super squeeze with the alert barely disengaging at times. Does the wheel actually have pressure sensors though?


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## MelindaV

No - only in turning the wheel


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## GDN

As noted, torque turning the wheel, not pressure, and it doesn't take much. This isn't about you having to really steer the car and not enjoy the Autosteer, it is about making sure you are keeping your eyes and focus on the road and remain 100% in control and *alive*.

You can thank a few of your previous fellow Tesla owners who were less attentive and are _no longer with us_ for this _feature_ (personal description of those people omitted). You'll recall a couple of Tesla's running into the back of firetrucks, one that didn't navigate the Y in the road, one that ran under an 18 wheeler. Those are the people you can thank. You must remain in control. A video playing or a book in hand or many other things people find to do if they don't have to pay attention to the road, are what got us here.


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## GateFather

GDN said:


> As noted, torque turning the wheel, not pressure, and it doesn't take much. This isn't about you having to really steer the car and not enjoy the Autosteer, it is about making sure you are keeping your eyes and focus on the road and remain 100% in control and *alive*.
> 
> You can thank a few of your previous fellow Tesla owners who were less attentive and are _no longer with us_ for this _feature_ (personal description of those people omitted). You'll recall a couple of Tesla's running into the back of firetrucks, one that didn't navigate the Y in the road, one that ran under an 18 wheeler. Those are the people you can thank. You must remain in control. A video playing or a book in hand or many other things people find to do if they don't have to pay attention to the road, are what got us here.


It's a shame with those lost individuals but you're right. They're losses can absolutely be seen as paving the early trails for what we all hope is a huge positive impact on the world.

I hate to sound like I'm complaining about having to "tell the car" you're there and aware. That wasn't my intention as much as it came off that way. When I use navigate on autopilot I'm hyper-aware (even more so than when I'm driving myself) because I don't yet have a level of trust in the car to do even what I understand is level 2 self driving. Some goof ups on the cars part has painted a very clear picture to me of its limitations. (It stinks at handling merge-in lanes on highways. I tend to stay in middle or left lane for that reason now). When using navigate on autopilot and EAP with auto steer I always have my hands lightly holding the bottom of the wheel.

Devices like the "Autopilot Buddy" make no sense to me as it seems to be asking for an accident and possible death. Come to think of it I'm not even sure how that works since I was under the impression those devices just apply constant pressure to the wheel.

I wonder why the car prompts for "apply light pressure to the steering wheel" if pressure isn't how it reads awareness. I guess it figures that applying pressure will cause a wheel turn slight enough for it to catch.


----------



## GDN

GateFather said:


> I wonder why the car prompts for "apply light pressure to the steering wheel" if pressure isn't how it reads awareness. I guess it figures that applying pressure will cause a wheel turn slight enough for it to catch.


They have to keep the message short, and I figure they are trying to think of language barriers of even many in the US that will drive the car. If they said "torque" how many wouldn't have a clue of what that means. If they said "turn" how many people would end up in the next lane and disengage autopilot. I'm not sure I can come up with a better or perfect message. I agree the message isn't perfect or you and many others even on this forum wouldn't have tried to squeeze the wheel (many many people have) but many others also got it right the first time. It's about interpretation.


----------



## Bokonon

FRC said:


> Hands on wheel is a misnomer, any activity that the car perceives as an attentive driver will suffice. I've seen one guy who flips the right stalk downward to end the warning. I think you could fiddle with the radio, turn on wipers, or increase/decrease TACC speed with scroll wheel


@GateFather Adjusting the volume one tick up and one tick down is my go-to move for dismissing the "apply light force to steering wheel" warning.

My left hand is usually resting at about 7 or 8 o'clock on the wheel, and my right hand is either off the wheel or lightly holding the wheel, producing a net torque counterclockwise. In the rare event that I get the warning, I simply reach over with my left thumb and give the volume wheel a flick.


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## PNWmisty

FRC said:


> I now drive with the wheel extended as far toward me and downward as possible(labelled cruising position).


Yes! I love the wheel toward me and very low! I could never use this position with my previous vehicles because the top of the wheel would block the instrument cluster. Whoever thought it a good idea to put the speedometer behind the steering should have been fired. Instead, it became the standard. Until now! I feel liberated to put the steering wheel where I really want it. Just one of many reasons I love my Tesla Model 3!

In this position, you may find that your leg contacts the steering wheel. I often keep my wrist resting on my leg while loosely holding the wheel. Sometimes I lightly tug the wheel once or twice a minute, other times the pressure of my leg on the wheel prevents the prompts.

And to answer one of GateFather's questions, why not steer yourself if you have to hold the wheel anyway? It takes about 1/100th the brain processing to show the system you are alive and paying attention as it does to actually maintain lane position. Even though maintaining lane position is done subconsciously, it still consumes mental energy and, over time, that adds fatigue. Many people are not aware of that.


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## GateFather

Why does the car only do +5mph over speed limit on most non-highway roads at a max when using autosteer but on highways you can set it as high as you want?


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## GDN

GateFather said:


> Why does the car only do +5mph over speed limit on most non-highway roads at a max when using autosteer but on highways you can set it as high as you want?


They still say that EAP is meant for divided highways so that have limits. Autosteer is also limited to 70 MPH on those roads. And on highways you can't go as high as you want, the limit is 90 MPH.


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## Love

GateFather said:


> Why does the car only do +5mph over speed limit on most non-highway roads at a max when using autosteer but on highways you can set it as high as you want?


Are you meaning EAP? Because I believe you can set cruise (TACC) as high as you want.
I'm unsure but might have something to do with Tesla not wanting it used on non-highway roads yet...just a guess.

This especially sucks when a 45mph speed limit road is incorrectly labeled as a 25mph ...as is what happened to a major road I use daily with the "new" maps that came out a few months back.

Edit: What @GDN said, we were typing at the same time


----------



## GateFather

GDN said:


> They still say that EAP is meant for divided highways so that have limits. Autosteer is also limited to 70 MPH on those roads. And on highways you can't go as high as you want, the limit is 90 MPH.





Lovesword said:


> Are you meaning EAP? Because I believe you can set cruise (TACC) as high as you want.
> I'm unsure but might have something to do with Tesla not wanting it used on non-highway roads yet...just a guess.
> 
> This especially sucks when a 45mph speed limit road is incorrectly labeled as a 25mph ...as is what happened to a major road I use daily with the "new" maps that came out a few months back.
> 
> Edit: What @GDN said, we were typing at the same time


Got it. Yeah I've never set TACC to more than 80mph so I just figured it would keep going. Smart to limit it to 90. I had it on last night on a dark windy road at 45mph and between the auto brights and the auto steering it was amazing to see how it drove itself. One gripe is a few bends. The first bend was a bit sharper and signs posted said 30mph. I didn't lower it and we went around that bend quite fast. On subsequent bends I simply scrolled the speed down a bit once I saw the bend coming up. Would be nice for autosteer to eventually sense bends and break to take them at reasonable speeds automatically. And yeah some mislabeled roads prevent EAP (TACC+Autosteer) from being viable.


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## GateFather

Another topic is battery charge. I've read that 80% is sort of the sweet spot and others here have even recommened that. I understand it's a hotly debated topic. @TrevP mentioned he has and does keep his at 90% for what is about a year of ownership and has seen only a 1% degradation in battery. That seems more then reasonable to me. Although my daily commute for work is only 6 miles each way (I work in the town I live), I still find myself wanting to set the limit to 90% as I like knowing that I have the most range available (without dipping into known battery degradation territoy) for unexpected drives should they come up. I plug in whenever I'm home even if i only went out for a 10-20 mile drive. So I generally always have a full 90% charge when leaving the house. From what I've read the consensus seems to be that 80% might be marginally better than 90% but to a negligeable degree.


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## MelindaV

GateFather said:


> From what I've read the consensus seems to be that 80% might be marginally better than 90% but to a negligeable degree.


either is fine. you just want to give enough headroom everything to have spare room. Think of the capacity as a city bus. Its ok at 80% or 90% with room to pick your spot. 100% is uncomfortable because likely the only space is next to that crazy looking guy. 1% is uncomfortable because you are the only one there with the crazy looking guy.


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## PNWmisty

GateFather said:


> Would be nice for autosteer to eventually sense bends and break to take them at reasonable speeds automatically.


True, it's definitely a work in progress. And I've seen a lot of progress since taking delivery of our RWD in May. I use it a lot on two-lane, undivided roads and have noticed it does some roads better than others even though they are similarly marked, sized and engineered. EAP has really been impressing me recently on WA State Route 542, a curvy two-lane highway that is a known deadly road. I can set EAP to the 50 mph speed limit and it will fairly competently slow down to 30 mph on the right angle corners marked 25 mph and then accelerate out of them. It does delay the acceleration part a couple of seconds more than a human driver would, like it wants to get its bearings before stepping on the accelerator but, other than that, it does a good job of mimicking a human driver. It also slows down to 42-47 mph for corners that a normal human driver would drop a few mph and picks back up to 50 mph with only a small delay relative to a human.

But it's far from perfect all the time, a couple of weeks ago it had just performed admirably for 12 minutes at 50 mph, taking numerous bends smoothly at appropriate speeds, slowing down to 40 mph where the speed limit was reduced and driving much like a human when it encountered the first hairpin turn of the drive. This is a very tight 180-degree hairpin. Initially, it slowed from 40 mph to 30 mph but then, instead of slowing further to 15 mph and taking the hairpin, at the last minute it accelerated straight ahead rather strongly. I'm not sure why because that would take the car into rocks and trees. I didn't let it continue to find out what it had in mind!


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## PNWmisty

GateFather said:


> Another topic is battery charge. I've read that 80% is sort of the sweet spot and others here have even recommened that.


My take on this is that 80% is marginally better than 90% and, if you don't drive big miles, 70% is marginally better than 80% but, more important than that is to occasionally take it to 97-99% and also down to 10% like once every couple months. This allows the battery management system to recalibrate so it knows where it's at.


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## MelindaV

PNWmisty said:


> EAP has really been impressing me recently on WA State Route 542, a curvy two-lane highway...


that reminded me that a few weeks ago I went to my dad's house - which is on a rural road off the freeway with a single 90º turn (the only way the road goes). When I got off the freeway, I put TACC on at 40MPH and went the mile or two toward his house. When I was about 1000 feet from the corner, it started to drastically slow down and I was thinking WTH(?!) because it was before I would have slowed, and as it was going along otherwise as I would drive on that road it caught me by surprise. I had intended to brake and take back control at the corner, but it seemed that it was up for it.
(I would not recommend doing this on a rural road you are are not familiar with or not paying attention to)


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## GateFather

PNWmisty said:


> True, it's definitely a work in progress. And I've seen a lot of progress since taking delivery of our RWD in May. I use it a lot on two-lane, undivided roads and have noticed it does some roads better than others even though they are similarly marked, sized and engineered. EAP has really been impressing me recently on WA State Route 542, a curvy two-lane highway that is a known deadly road. I can set EAP to the 50 mph speed limit and it will fairly competently slow down to 30 mph on the right angle corners marked 25 mph and then accelerate out of them. It does delay the acceleration part a couple of seconds more than a human driver would, like it wants to get its bearings before stepping on the accelerator but, other than that, it does a good job of mimicking a human driver. It also slows down to 42-47 mph for corners that a normal human driver would drop a few mph and picks back up to 50 mph with only a small delay relative to a human.
> 
> But it's far from perfect all the time, a couple of weeks ago it had just performed admirably for 12 minutes at 50 mph, taking numerous bends smoothly at appropriate speeds, slowing down to 40 mph where the speed limit was reduced and driving much like a human when it encountered the first hairpin turn of the drive. This is a very tight 180-degree hairpin. Initially, it slowed from 40 mph to 30 mph but then, instead of slowing further to 15 mph and taking the hairpin, at the last minute it accelerated straight ahead rather strongly. I'm not sure why because that would take the car into rocks and trees. I didn't let it continue to find out what it had in mind!


I've also noticed it's slowed down sometimes and not others for bends tighter than the car going the speed limit would tolerate. Even on the same bends at different times.

I've also noticed that the car, in general, takes longer than i would to accelerate after slowing considerably to allow a car to turn off the road for example. If there are cars behind me, I find myself stepping on it a bit to get it going.

I've had a couple of those moments too when the car did something strange or unexpected. Just this morning I was traveling down a 4 lane (2 each way) major road around 55mph when a car maybe 200-300 feet ahead made a left in front of my car. My car braked unnecessarily hard and I had to take over as a car behind me sort of swerved, for lack of a better term, into the right lane to avoid decreasing his speed. Have to be aware for sure.

Btw, I'm absolutely loving the Tesla and model 3 "3" puddle lights, trunk ultra brights, and glove box ultra whites. Huge kudos to abstract ocean so far on all the quality products I've purchase from them. I also have dark blue cup holder liners coming from them and a model 3 emblem from RPM Tesla. I'm somewhat handy but almost everything I've done so far has been so easy! Only the 36w Dual lightning cables to the front charging area has been a bit of a pain in the butt so far.


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## AutopilotFan

GateFather said:


> 1) Is there a "right" place to apply pressure or is the entire wheel supposed to be able to pick it up?


During my long drive I liked to hold the wheel low on the left (or right) side with just one hand. When it asked me to put light pressure on, giving the wheel a squeeze with my hand seemed to usually do the trick. I can't tell if the squeeze or the extra downward pressure was what it was looking for.


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## PNWmisty

AutopilotFan said:


> During my long drive I liked to hold the wheel low on the left (or right) side with just one hand. When it asked me to put light pressure on, giving the wheel a squeeze with my hand seemed to usually do the trick. I can't tell if the squeeze or the extra downward pressure was what it was looking for.


It's the downward pressure. The steering wheel is not equipped to detect squeezing, only a force in opposition to the steering motor. Of course, if you oppose the steering with too much force it will give control back to the driver as it exits EAP. Be aware that TACC will still be enabled.


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## GateFather

I live in NJ where snow is commonplace in the winter. I'll want to be able to drive my model 3 in the winter in some likely less than ideal conditions at best, snow covered roads at worst. I'm assuming I'll need winter tires for this. I saw there's a 19" set of sport wheel and winter tires for $3,500 and a (currently sold out) set of 20" sport wheel and winter tires for $4,000.

1) *Does the model 3 with 19" come with tires that will do any good in the snow? *

2) *Does the purchase include Tesla changing them out seasonally for free? Or just the first change out is included?*

Thanks for any info anyone can provide!


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## SoFlaModel3

GateFather said:


> Some questions on EAP.
> 
> I understand that FSD is not currently legal and so the car prompts for light pressure on the wheel. I find that even if I'm holding the wheel while using navigate on autopilot or just enhanced auto pilot with auto steer on that it often doesn't register my hands. I usually have to grip the wheel in multiple spots multiple times before the blue flashing and beeping go away.
> 
> 1) Is there a "right" place to apply pressure or is the entire wheel supposed to be able to pick it up?
> 
> 2) If you basically need to hold the wheel now anyways, what's the purpose of auto steer? If I'm already holding it, I might as well just steer myself, no?
> 
> 3) I tested the functionality of what happens if you don't apply pressure to the wheel when prompted on an empty road late one night. It did slow me down to a stop and put the 4 ways on but it didn't pull into the shoulder. It just stopped in the middle of the road. I was in the left lane of a 2 lane highway. (I had visibility for miles backwards, only stopped for a second, and no one was coming). Is it supposed to pull into the shoulder? Stopping in the middle of the highway seems more dangerous than not. Especially at night. It didn't let me re-enable EAP for the rest of that drive.


There may be some different opinions out there, but here are mine...



> 1) Is there a "right" place to apply pressure or is the entire wheel supposed to be able to pick it up?


I usually rest my left arm on my left leg which based on my seating position is comfortable for me and allows for me to place enough tension on the wheel to not trigger a warning,



> 2) If you basically need to hold the wheel now anyways, what's the purpose of auto steer? If I'm already holding it, I might as well just steer myself, no?


NO!!!  Autosteer (when matched with TACC) removes all of the stress and fatigue of driving. You're aware of your surroundings, but very relaxed. There is a big difference between resting your arm on the wheel and being ready to take over vs. actually driving. I will say you notice this most in a long, monotonous drives (i.e. road trips) as well as in rush hour traffic. We are all inherently distracted no matter how hard we try not to be, so between your phone, your music, your HVAC, the cool car that just drove past you, etc.; having the car in control is a blessing (mind you not an excuse for being overly distracted though).


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## PNWmisty

GateFather said:


> I live in NJ where snow is commonplace in the winter. I'll want to be able to drive my model 3 in the winter in some likely less than ideal conditions at best, snow covered roads at worst. I'm assuming I'll need winter tires for this. I saw there's a 19" set of sport wheel and winter tires for $3,500 and a (currently sold out) set of 20" sport wheel and winter tires for $4,000.
> 1) *Does the model 3 with 19" come with tires that will do any good in the snow?*


No, not really, the Continental ProContacts are no better than average in the snow for an all-season radial and all-season radials are very marginal in snow. Although the Model 3 is naturally adept in the snow so it would be better than say a Subaru with the same tires. Snow falls in many varieties and it changes while on the ground. Fresh, cold snow is usually a piece of cake for such a setup, the problem happens as it melts, refreezes, glazes, turns to mush, etc. It's not uncommon for a decent snowfall to turn into conditions that come close to almost disabling most cars or, at the least, making travel at any speed over about 35 very dicey. That's when you will be wishing you had Winter tires (although Winter tires will greatly outperform all-season radials in just about any winter condition).

Don't make the mistake of thinking you need the most bad-ass winter tires ever made. You want a quality winter tire that will perform well in the wide variety of conditions encountered in winter. Since this almost certainly includes plenty of higher speed driving on plowed roads, I would suggest a tire like the one Tesla recommends would be a good choice. And since you will be buying wheels to go with them, and you have the Performance brakes, I would investigate the 18" aftermarket wheels that fit over the performance brakes. This gives you more sidewall to handle the rigors of winter driving in a place like N.J. Then you could run the excellent 18" Pirelli Sottozero's which I really like because they retain almost all of the good grip, handling and steering feel of non-winter tires while giving you a good rubber compound for cold conditions and ice. But you will have a much larger selection of 19" wheels that fit over your Performance brakes and plenty of good tire choices as well.



> 2) *Does the purchase include Tesla changing them out seasonally for free? Or just the first change out is included?*


If you buy a winter tire/wheel package from Tesla they will install it for free. After that, I imagine you are on your own. While the charge for seasonally changing wheels is pretty minimal at most shops, I bought a pneumatic impact wrench over 15 years ago and have been doing it myself. This greatly speeds up the changeover. If you already have a flat level place out of the rain and a suitable air compressor and floor jack, this is a good solution and, for me, is more convenient than taking it to a shop twice a year. The wheels don't have to go inside the vehicle this way and I don't need to worry if the shop did the job properly. I've always done 100% the work on all my motorcycles and, previously, I let auto shops do the work on my cars (short of minor stuff). But after seeing far too many screw-ups I've reluctantly been doing as much as possible on my cars as well. It's just lower stress and easier. A really good tire shop in the area would change that but I don't think one exists.


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## SR22pilot

GateFather said:


> Some questions on EAP.
> 
> I understand that FSD is not currently legal and so the car prompts for light pressure on the wheel. I find that even if I'm holding the wheel while using navigate on autopilot or just enhanced auto pilot with auto steer on that it often doesn't register my hands. I usually have to grip the wheel in multiple spots multiple times before the blue flashing and beeping go away.
> 
> 1) Is there a "right" place to apply pressure or is the entire wheel supposed to be able to pick it up?
> 
> 2) If you basically need to hold the wheel now anyways, what's the purpose of auto steer? If I'm already holding it, I might as well just steer myself, no?
> 
> 3) I tested the functionality of what happens if you don't apply pressure to the wheel when prompted on an empty road late one night. It did slow me down to a stop and put the 4 ways on but it didn't pull into the shoulder. It just stopped in the middle of the road. I was in the left lane of a 2 lane highway. (I had visibility for miles backwards, only stopped for a second, and no one was coming). Is it supposed to pull into the shoulder? Stopping in the middle of the highway seems more dangerous than not. Especially at night. It didn't let me re-enable EAP for the rest of that drive.


1) Hold anywhere. It will try to wiggle the wheel and feel the resistance. It is an art form since resisting too much will cause AP to turn off autosteer. BUT cruise control will stay on.
2) This is the result of people putting their dog behind the wheel or climbing in the back seat. We pay the price. I too find it annoying and prefer Cadillac's solution of checking if you are looking at the road.
3) Yep, that's how it is supposed to work. The system isn't smart enough to be sure of recognizing a proper shoulder vs. a dangerous one. It just stays in the lane and slows to a stop with flashers on.


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## GateFather

PNWmisty said:


> No, not really, the Continental ProContacts are no better than average in the snow for an all-season radial and all-season radials are very marginal in snow. Although the Model 3 is naturally adept in the snow so it would be better than say a Subaru with the same tires. Snow falls in many varieties and it changes while on the ground. Fresh, cold snow is usually a piece of cake for such a setup, the problem happens as it melts, refreezes, glazes, turns to mush, etc. It's not uncommon for a decent snowfall to turn into conditions that come close to almost disabling most cars or, at the least, making travel at any speed over about 35 very dicey. That's when you will be wishing you had Winter tires (although Winter tires will greatly outperform all-season radials in just about any winter condition).
> 
> Don't make the mistake of thinking you need the most bad-ass winter tires ever made. You want a quality winter tire that will perform well in the wide variety of conditions encountered in winter. Since this almost certainly includes plenty of higher speed driving on plowed roads, I would suggest a tire like the one Tesla recommends would be a good choice. And since you will be buying wheels to go with them, and you have the Performance brakes, I would investigate the 18" aftermarket wheels that fit over the performance brakes. This gives you more sidewall to handle the rigors of winter driving in a place like N.J. Then you could run the excellent 18" Pirelli Sottozero's which I really like because they retain almost all of the good grip, handling and steering feel of non-winter tires while giving you a good rubber compound for cold conditions and ice. But you will have a much larger selection of 19" wheels that fit over your Performance brakes and plenty of good tire choices as well.
> 
> If you buy a winter tire/wheel package from Tesla they will install it for free. After that, I imagine you are on your own. While the charge for seasonally changing wheels is pretty minimal at most shops, I bought a pneumatic impact wrench over 15 years ago and have been doing it myself. This greatly speeds up the changeover. If you already have a flat level place out of the rain and a suitable air compressor and floor jack, this is a good solution and, for me, is more convenient than taking it to a shop twice a year. The wheels don't have to go inside the vehicle this way and I don't need to worry if the shop did the job properly. I've always done 100% the work on all my motorcycles and, previously, I let auto shops do the work on my cars (short of minor stuff). But after seeing far too many screw-ups I've reluctantly been doing as much as possible on my cars as well. It's just lower stress and easier. A really good tire shop in the area would change that but I don't think one exists.


Awesome info. I actually do have a garage and a decent sized air compressor. I probably could buy a pneumatic impact wrench and do it myself but jacking the car up would be a pain in the butt. I did purchase those hockey puck jack points from a member here though. Thanks for the info!

Question for you and anyone else. What do these dots mean?


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## FRC

Low regen due to cold battery. Will resolve as the battery warms, perfectly normal.


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## GateFather

FRC said:


> Low regen due to cold battery. Will resolve as the battery warms, perfectly normal.


I figured that's what it was but wasn't sure. Makes sense since i notice the green line wont go past the solid line. The dots are the stopping point. 
....and yes, I was listening to a Tesla podcast in my tesla haha.


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## FRC

Our obsession in all-consuming!


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## garsh

GateFather said:


> I actually do have a garage and a decent sized air compressor. I probably could buy a pneumatic impact wrench and do it myself but jacking the car up would be a pain in the butt. I did purchase those hockey puck jack points from a member here though.


I wouldn't even bother getting a pneumatic wrench. Get a torque wrench (you'll need that anyhow to tighten the lug nuts correctly) and a 4-way lug wrench.
Add a low-profile jack to use with your hockey pucks, and you're all set. Harbor Freight constantly puts the jack below on sale for $80. I picked one up and it's been great.

https://www.harborfreight.com/20-inch-four-way-lug-wrench-94110.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-inch-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-62431.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton...vy-duty-floor-jack-with-rapid-pump-62326.html


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## GateFather

Driving home from work tonight and was about 1000ft back from a salting truck. As soon as I saw the truck I started getting in the other lane to try to pass and BAM! a huge smacking sound i could even feel in my feet seemed to come from the drivers side. I pulled over at the next place I could, a McDonalds. I can't see anything as of now, but its also night and my car is filthy from the salt and other crap already put down on the roads. Wondering if it was a large salt rock that hit under the car and possible damage there. Ugh hate NJ winters.


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## GDN

The whole underside of the car is covered from front to back and the bottom of the battery is definitely nice and thick. It might have left a slight ding, but figure you are OK.


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## GateFather

GDN said:


> The whole underside of the car is covered from front to back and the bottom of the battery is definitely nice and thick. It might have left a slight ding, but figure you are OK.


Hopefully you're right. It was a very loud and sharp sound so wherever it hit, it left something. I'll take a better look in the morning and see if I find anything on the paint/headlights/windshield etc. Hopefully not.


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## GDN

Under the areas where the motors are, it is more of a heavy felt like material for aero dynamics is seems, and then of course the solid battery bottom. It is pretty much covered from front bumper to back bumper. If it did any damage you'll see it pretty easily.


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## GateFather

Today I learned if you depress the brake hard even when stopped at a ref light, it’ll put it on HOLD and you can take your foot off the break and just go when ready. Love it! 

Question: can you change the order of homelink garage doors. I setup my right door first then the left. I decided that if rather have left on top and right on bottom when I press the homelink button. Any way to do this without deleting right door and redoing setup?


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## garsh

GateFather said:


> Today I learned if you depress the brake hard even when stopped at a ref light, it'll put it on HOLD and you can take your foot off the break and just go when ready. Love it!


Yep, that feature is very nice.

You don't really have to press hard - you just have to press it a *little* further after the car has come to a complete stop.


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## FRC

GateFather said:


> Today I learned if you depress the brake hard even when stopped at a ref light


Be careful, more than once I have incorrectly assumed that brake function was engaged at a red light and I almost rolled backwards into the car behind. Before removing your foot from the brake make sure that circled B is displayed.


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## garsh

FRC said:


> Be careful, more than once I have incorrectly assumed that brake function was engaged at a red light and I almost rolled backwards into the car behind. Before removing your foot from the brake make sure that circled B is displayed.


Yes, had that happen too. Because one of the ways to turn off HOLD is to hit the brake pedal again.

So sometimes, you think you're putting HOLD on, but it was actually already on, and you're actually turning it back off.


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## SR22pilot

garsh said:


> Yes, had that happen too. Because one of the ways to turn off HOLD is to hit the brake pedal again.
> 
> So sometimes, you think you're putting HOLD on, but it was actually already on, and you're actually turning it back off.


But sometimes you have to give it that extra push. If you use region to slow and barely touch the brake then HOLD does not come on. I have had my foot on the brake and noticed that hold wasn't on. A little extra push and it came on.


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## GateFather

FRC said:


> Be careful, more than once I have incorrectly assumed that brake function was engaged at a red light and I almost rolled backwards into the car behind. Before removing your foot from the brake make sure that circled B is displayed.


I'm using creep and so when i stop I press in the break more after fully stopped and see "Hold" appear above where the speed limit is. That's how I know I'm good to go. With creep on, I don't think rolling backwards is concern. (Maybe not even with it off?). I guess if you're sitting on a steep incline it may be but in southern NJ steep inclines are few and far between. Is HOLD also the emergency break equivalent in a Model 3?


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## GDN

Hold is simply applying the regular brakes for you. I don't remember exactly when it happens, but if you put it in park I believe, or if you take your seatbelt off, maybe multiple situations, you'll hear it engage the additional emergency brake.. Hold is regular brake while in drive, and haven't tried and just thought about it but perhaps also while in reverse. The brake components are by Bosch and there is a write up / description of it I"ve seen either here on the forum or maybe by @Ingineer .


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## SR22pilot

GateFather said:


> I'm using creep and so when i stop I press in the break more after fully stopped and see "Hold" appear above where the speed limit is. That's how I know I'm good to go. With creep on, I don't think rolling backwards is concern. (Maybe not even with it off?). I guess if you're sitting on a steep incline it may be but in southern NJ steep inclines are few and far between. Is HOLD also the emergency break equivalent in a Model 3?


You can roll backwards with creep off. However, I recommend creep off since you can then start AP while hold is on. Creep off is a more natural EV wat to drive to me. I like AP in stop and go traffic.


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## PNWmisty

GateFather said:


> I'm using creep...


Say it isn't so! And you accused your wife of turning your high-tech marvel into a Honda Accord? Hmmm.....


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## GateFather

PNWmisty said:


> Say it isn't so! And you accused your wife of turning your high-tech marvel into a Honda Accord? Hmmm.....


AND I love this song!





 - OK OK dad joke, I know.


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## GateFather

Something cool! I made it on Ryan McCaffrey's Podcast "Ride the Lightning" in the most recent episode, Episode 175: European Model 3 Orders Begin. During his Ride the Lightning Hotline segment at 53:53, I asked my question around why Navigate on Autopilot was disengaging AND disabling while I was using it. I noticed this 3 separate times where I started my drive with Navigate on Autopilot on (in my own driver profile), and at some point on a highway the blue highlighted button for it was gone AND in the Autopilot settings it was grayed out and disabled.

I think each time I had switched from my driver profile to an "Autopilot" driver profile, which basically just lowers the wheel into my lap to allow for easier holding with my left hand while resting on my leg. This was a suggestion a forum member made. While Ryan was a little stumped on this one, I think I may have figured it out after some thought and another experience. At least I have a hypothesis for now.

I noted a few posts back that my wife finally drove my Model 3 a bit. While she drove, we went on a highway and while she was NOT using any of the autopilot features, TACC/Autosteer/NoA, I was looking at the screen during navigation for the option. Guess what? It wasn't there! We had just created her profile minutes before when she jumped in the driver seat.

My hypotheses (still to be tested) is that Navigate on Autopilot does not activate as an option until a profile has some number of miles driven on it. Maybe they don't want to allow a brand new driver to the car with no TACC nor Autosteer the ability to jump right into NoA? Both my wife's and the Autopilot profile were new when I didn't see the option. When I switched from my own profile with Navigate on Autopilot running to the new Autopilot profile, Navigate on Autopilot disengaged and disabled sometime after. I have not yet changed profile and specifically looked to see what happened. Each time in the past I just noticed it wasn't on anymore but TACC and Autosteer were - hence not really noticing.

Couple of questions from my weekend drives:

1) Are both front USB ports data enabled? I have the chargers running from the 12v so if they are I'll have one for dashcam and one for music instead of the partitioned drive which has been giving me issues on both sides.
2) Should the back bottom of the seats be misaligned a bit on purpose? See picture:


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## GDN

I don't think each profile needs time, I think you have to go into each newly created profile and specifically turn it on. It is off by default.


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## GateFather

GDN said:


> I don't think each profile needs time, I think you have to go into each newly created profile and specifically turn it on. It is off by default.


Ahhh that makes a lot of sense then as well. I was switching to a profile where is was already disabled.


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## GDN

I just confirmed that even when being on a profile with NOA activated, if you create a new profile the NOA is not activated in the menu, it must be done manually and saved to the profile.


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## GateFather

GDN said:


> I just confirmed that even when being on a profile with NOA activated, if you create a new profile the NOA is not activated in the menu, it must be done manually and saved to the profile.


Nice thanks for the confirmation. I emailed Ryan and let him know we found the solution. Simple when you think about it.


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## SR22pilot

GateFather said:


> 1) Are both from USB ports data enabled? I have the chargers running from the 12v so if they are I'll have one for dashcam and one for music instead of the partitioned drive which has been giving me issues on both sides.


Both FRONT USB ports are data enabled. The back two aren't.


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## GateFather

SR22pilot said:


> Both FRONT USB ports are data enabled. The back two aren't.


Awesome and thanks for the correction - autocorrect....

I'll buy a 16gb stick for TeslaCam and reformat the other just for music.


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## SR22pilot

GateFather said:


> Awesome and thanks for the correction - autocorrect....
> 
> I'll buy a 16gb stick for TeslaCam and reformat the other just for music.


I put a small hub on the one on the right. That way I can do the CAM and a separate music stick should I so decide. All the while I am still able to charge two phones. The right side charge is slower but I mostly use the left which is dedicated to phone charging. The split Y cables do not work on iPhones.


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## GateFather

Got the RPM Model 3 badge in the mail today and applied it. I know people are real hot or cold on it, especially for not being the matching font to the Dual Motor badging. I have to say though I think it looks great! I’ll take a photo tomorrow when I have some daylight!


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## MelindaV

@GateFather - if you've not yet, go thru the FAQ thread's first post. There are a ton of things that have been answered over the last year (like if the rear USB have data or just power 🙃 )


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## GateFather

MelindaV said:


> @GateFather - if you've not yet, go thru the FAQ thread's first post. There are a ton of things that have been answered over the last year (like if the rear USB have data or just power 🙃 )


Gotcha. I did know the rear were power only just didn't know if both fronts were data and power. Most cars even when providing 2 USBs only have 1 of them with data enabled. But point taken.


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## GateFather

I like the badge look!


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## GateFather

Some questions / comments:


What's the point of favorites on USB playback if they get wiped away everytime the car turns off?
My charge port now opens when I arrive home, automatically after I get out of the car. is this expected behaivior? I haven't read about it anywhere and it doesn't always do it, just sometimes. As I'm walking over to grab the charge cable after getting out of the car when home, the charge port just opens by itself. I imagine if it could talk it would be saying:


Spoiler: Not a Real Spoiler















Messing with Emissions testing mode, I then popped (not pooped) over to atari and fired up some asteroids while I was waiting for a friend to come out. I forgot to turn off emissions testing mode and so every shot fired in asteroids was a fart. Super funny for about 7 seconds. haha
Romance mode, more than anything else, just highlighted how much I wish they would allow video playback from USB and HDMI source input for the passenger/driver while at super chargers. Imagine being able to hookup a nintendo switch to it with just a USB-C to HDMI cable! The screen is way nicer than what it's being used for. A lot of missed out on potential as of now.


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## GDN

Is there a chance the button on your home UMC is stuck, so that when the car is in range and in park it is getting a signal to open the charge port cover? If not and it is doing it only at home, I'd say something may be wrong with the UMC.


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## GateFather

GDN said:


> Is there a chance the button on your home UMC is stuck, so that when the car is in range and in park it is getting a signal to open the charge port cover? If not and it is doing it only at home, I'd say something may be wrong with the UMC.


Figured this out. Stupid, really. I was bumping the chargeport as I walked by the back of the car to grab the cord. Never even realized that you can tap the cargeport to open it haha.


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## GDN

GateFather said:


> Figured this out. Stupid, really. I was bumping the chargeport as I walked by the back of the car to grab the cord. Never even realized that you can tap the cargeport to open it haha.


It's nice to find the little things once in a while. I hope Tesla has this fixed, but there is a small piece of metal or something in the plastic door that is notorious for falling out and even getting lost. Look for it now so you know what it looks like, open the door and look up from the bottom - a small parallelogram shaped object is in the door. That is a critical piece for being able to open the door locally by pushing on it. This was a very common part to come loose and fall out. Haven't heard it reported in a while, so hope that Tesla finally got that one fixed.


----------

