# Strength required to close the trunk lid...



## Spiffywerks (Jul 30, 2017)

Maybe I'm just so used to having powered trunk lids/hatches - but does the trunk lid seem to require an unusual amount of strength to close?

The gas shocks seem to be overpowered for as small/light as the trunk lid seems, causing it to spring back to fully open at any less than almost fully closed. Most trunk lids I'm used to will either stop at any given angle or slowly reopen. This one feels like a tightly wound spring that resists being bent.

It's nearly impossible to close without using two hands. One to start pulling it down with the inner handle, and the other on to top of the lid to slam it shut once half way down, otherwise, it will spring back open as soon as you let it go. I'm just so afraid I'll end up with tons of scratches on the corner of my trunk lid just from trying to close it.


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## SoFlaModel3 (Apr 15, 2017)

Spiffywerks said:


> Maybe I'm just so used to having powered trunk lids/hatches - but does the trunk lid seem to require an unusual amount of strength to close?
> 
> The gas shocks seem to be overpowered for as small/light as the trunk lid seems, causing it to spring back to fully open at any less than almost fully closed. Most trunk lids I'm used to will either stop at any given angle or slowly reopen. This one feels like a tightly wound spring that resists being bent.
> 
> It's nearly impossible to close without using two hands. One to start pulling it down with the inner handle, and the other on to top of the lid to slam it shut once half way down, otherwise, it will spring back open as soon as you let it go. I'm just so afraid I'll end up with tons of scratches on the corner of my trunk lid just from trying to close it.


I posted the same thing in my first impression. The trunk really wants to remain open!!!


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## AEDennis (Apr 10, 2016)

Spiffywerks said:


> Maybe I'm just so used to having powered trunk lids/hatches - but does the trunk lid seem to require an unusual amount of strength to close?
> 
> The gas shocks seem to be overpowered for as small/light as the trunk lid seems, causing it to spring back to fully open at any less than almost fully closed. Most trunk lids I'm used to will either stop at any given angle or slowly reopen. This one feels like a tightly wound spring that resists being bent.
> 
> It's nearly impossible to close without using two hands. One to start pulling it down with the inner handle, and the other on to top of the lid to slam it shut once half way down, otherwise, it will spring back open as soon as you let it go. I'm just so afraid I'll end up with tons of scratches on the corner of my trunk lid just from trying to close it.





SoFlaModel3 said:


> I posted the same thing in my first impression. The trunk really wants to remain open!!!


I just eat a can of spinach before I close the trunk... works great after that! (and I'm prepared for Bluto too... just in case.)


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## TrevP (Oct 20, 2015)

I agree, the force required to close the trunk is a bit much, it's stiff. A few less LBS in the lift struts would do the trick

Anyone who wants to swap them can look here. They're not too expensive https://www.mcmaster.com/


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## Guest (Feb 21, 2018)

Pretty much certain that the problem is adjustment. Do not change strut parameters. It's dangerous.
Visit service center and ask to adjust the catch (and lock in case alignment gets too bad).

Trunk lids are usually adjusted so they raise themselves from halfway and ideally they close
if they drop (no hands) down from that specific "halfway" point. This includes sedans, hatchbacks and tourings.
Worst case is when you use the inside handle and pull it down as hard as you close the side door.
It MUST close. Painted surface should never be touched. Only the handle inside.

PS: before visiting service center, verify that weather seal is seated tightly.

Just a remark - all hoods should close when dropped from 20-25cm. This is one of the fitment verification tests in BMW factory.
That includes aluminum hoods of course.


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## msjulie (Feb 6, 2018)

I will say that in general I appreciate the tendency to remain open since it is probably related to getting it open in the first place. This failed me though, 2 days back. It was cold out and the lid opened slower than my muscle memory so I bonked my head on the slower-than-usual-moving lid. Ouch.

I'd rather it resist closing a little than fall on me in cold weather (roadster rear lid, I'm talking about you)


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## gregincal (Sep 30, 2017)

Can't say that I've noticed it being hard to close. I certainly don't use two hands to close it (but then I don't use the inner handle to pull it down either).


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## Petra (Sep 12, 2017)

Interesting... I didn't play with the trunk lid on the Model 3 I drove last weekend--I guess I should have. One thing I can say is that Tesla was using gas struts that were _way _too strong on the manual Model S hatch a while back (you had to practically throw it closed). After one of my hatch struts failed, the service center replaced both with new struts that lacked Tesla markings (the replacements were marked Stabilus, a common supplier of these parts) and the hatch opens fine and has been really easy to close ever since.


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## Guest (Feb 21, 2018)

Stabilus is the highest grade stuff available


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## Maevra (Oct 24, 2017)

It does take a good bit of force to close the 3's trunk compared to our Corolla (which you could close with one finger).

I prefer to just push the trunk lid closed rather than pull it down using the recessed liftgate handle.


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## skygraff (Jun 2, 2017)

Today, I tested some options with the Chicago display model.

It is possible to close the trunk with one hand if you're tall enough to grab the paint from above but it's also possible to "fling" the trunk close in one motion via the grab handles. The latter isn't easy for those with bad shoulders but it doesn't take a lot of force so much as consistent and fluid motion. Given a few tries, I was able to find the happy medium between slamming it with such a fling and falling short of a close so that it would spring back open (as described above).

Having dealt with many winters where I often had to prop my car's hatch open with my head as its struts were overwhelmed by a little snow, I'm quite glad that these struts are more resistive off the factory floor. Don't know if these are prone to weakening over time but I'll go with better safe than sorry. If they are adjustable, however, that would be cool.


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## SoFlaModel3 (Apr 15, 2017)

gregincal said:


> Can't say that I've noticed it being hard to close. I certainly don't use two hands to close it (but then I don't use the inner handle to pull it down either).





Petra said:


> Interesting... I didn't play with the trunk lid on the Model 3 I drove last weekend--I guess I should have. One thing I can say is that Tesla was using gas struts that were _way _too strong on the manual Model S hatch a while back (you had to practically throw it closed). After one of my hatch struts failed, the service center replaced both with new struts that lacked Tesla markings (the replacements were marked Stabilus, a common supplier of these parts) and the hatch opens fine and has been really easy to close ever since.





Maevra said:


> It does take a good bit of force to close the 3's trunk compared to our Corolla (which you could close with one finger).
> 
> I prefer to just push the trunk lid closed rather than pull it down using the recessed liftgate handle.





skygraff said:


> Today, I tested some options with the Chicago display model.
> 
> It is possible to close the trunk with one hand if you're tall enough to grab the paint from above but it's also possible to "fling" the trunk close in one motion via the grab handles. The latter isn't easy for those with bad shoulders but it doesn't take a lot of force so much as consistent and fluid motion. Given a few tries, I was able to find the happy medium between slamming it with such a fling and falling short of a close so that it would spring back open (as described above).
> 
> Having dealt with many winters where I often had to prop my car's hatch open with my head as its struts were overwhelmed by a little snow, I'm quite glad that these struts are more resistive off the factory floor. Don't know if these are prone to weakening over time but I'll go with better safe than sorry. If they are adjustable, however, that would be cool.


My goal is always to limit touching paint with your hands (something that absolutely can't be avoided with the frunk for obvious reasons). Using the inside handle definitely requires a double move as the trunk will try to open itself. Not the end of the world, but definitely not the worlds best trunk lid either.


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## skygraff (Jun 2, 2017)

SoFlaModel3 said:


> My goal is always to limit touching paint with your hands (something that absolutely can't be avoided with the frunk for obvious reasons). Using the inside handle definitely requires a double move as the trunk will try to open itself. Not the end of the world, but definitely not the worlds best trunk lid either.


To be clear, the inside handle doesn't require a double move if you're willing and able to swing through with your arm as you let go of the handle; effectively flinging the trunk closed. Despite my twin torn labrums, this is probably the method I will use.

Give it a try and let us know what you think.


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## SoFlaModel3 (Apr 15, 2017)

skygraff said:


> To be clear, the inside handle doesn't require a double move if you're willing and able to swing through with your arm as you let go of the handle; effectively flinging the trunk closed. Despite my twin torn labrums, this is probably the method I will use.
> 
> Give it a try and let us know what you think.


I will try this again, I get the feeling any of us would look very silly with slamming the trunk closed from the inside handle and moving our hand/arm out of the way at the same time. Will report back later.


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## AEDennis (Apr 10, 2016)

msjulie said:


> ... (roadster rear lid, I'm talking about you)


Roadster trunk is a whole different challenge with ensuring that it IS closed and latched.

Seriously, as for the Model 3, I was testing it out this afternoon as I popped the trunk open to get the UMC I have back there to charge at the office, I closed it with minimal effort. It's been a while since I've had to use a manual trunk that was not a Roadster, so it doesn't seem overly difficult.


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## Maevra (Oct 24, 2017)

@SoFlaModel3, hehe, I've broken a nail trying to close the trunk via the inner handles, so my nail paint job>car's paint for now. 

IMO they could improve the inner trunk handle design, as the recess is quite shallow; I'd prefer it to be deeper so you could get a better grip. As it stands, I dislike using the handle method to close because it feels like this:








And I want it to be like this:


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## Guest (Feb 22, 2018)

arnis said:


> Just a remark - all hoods should close when dropped from 20-25cm. This is one of the fitment verification tests in BMW factory.
> That includes aluminum hoods of course.





SoFlaModel3 said:


> touching paint with your hands (something that absolutely can't be avoided with the frunk for obvious reasons). Using the inside handle definitely requires a double move as the trunk will try to open itself.


Actually it is possible to design frunk/hood that closes without touching paint. Use the inner side to drag the hood down. Latch for example. I've done that on BMW's when hood is too dirty from outside (same story, to avoid scratching).
But with the trunk it's serious, it should close just by pulling the inside handle (same force as closing door). Just let serviceshop adjust it.


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## SoFlaModel3 (Apr 15, 2017)

arnis said:


> Actually it is possible to design frunk/hood that closes without touching paint. Use the inner side to drag the hood down. Latch for example. I've done that on BMW's when hood is too dirty from outside (same story, to avoid scratching).
> But with the trunk it's serious, it should close just by pulling the inside handle (same force as closing door). Just let serviceshop adjust it.


After reading @AEDennis saying his closes fairy easy it makes me think trunk-gate is the next "gate" after suspension-gate. I will definitely tell the service team and see what they come back with!!


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## AEDennis (Apr 10, 2016)

SoFlaModel3 said:


> After reading @AEDennis saying his closes fairy easy it makes me think trunk-gate is the next "gate" after suspension-gate. I will definitely tell the service team and see what they come back with!!


I also have the Alcantara headliner...


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## SoFlaModel3 (Apr 15, 2017)

Ok so I tried again today. It turns out that it’s very easy to close with 1 hand. Also given the resistance it ensures that it doesn’t slam. Turns out the trunk is great!


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## skygraff (Jun 2, 2017)

SoFlaModel3 said:


> Ok so I tried again today. It turns out that it's very easy to close with 1 hand. Also given the resistance it ensures that it doesn't slam. Turns out the trunk is great!


Unless you've got gorgeous nails and want to keep them that way.

Noted.


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## Guest (Mar 4, 2018)

How trunks should close, demonstrated on 2002 BMW 3-series Touring and 2014 Leaf:




Never touch that paintjob




Especially if it is covered with any dust, pollen, mud etc...


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## SoFlaModel3 (Apr 15, 2017)

Yeah I’m back in the it’s not that easy to close camp after my car failed walk away lock the other day. I scratched my head. Opened the app, locks failed again. I freaked out. Ahh my trunk is still open


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## ATown312 (Sep 17, 2018)

https://www.rpmtesla.com/collection...del-3-tailgate-closing-handle-only-28-with-20

Has anyone tried this product to make closing the trunk easier? Seems like an overhand grip pull down from the license plate could be much easier compared to an underhand grip from the inside trunk handles.


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## SoFlaModel3 (Apr 15, 2017)

ATown312 said:


> https://www.rpmtesla.com/collection...del-3-tailgate-closing-handle-only-28-with-20
> 
> Has anyone tried this product to make closing the trunk easier? Seems like an overhand grip pull down from the license plate could be much easier compared to an underhand grip from the inside trunk handles.


After a bad experience, I won't order from them again but putting that aside -- this product is ugly and unnecessary. I've made noise about the oddly high amount of effort to close the trunk but still would never consider this. You can just pull down and push on the license plate to close the trunk without ever touching the paint.


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## MelindaV (Apr 2, 2016)

ATown312 said:


> https://www.rpmtesla.com/collection...del-3-tailgate-closing-handle-only-28-with-20
> 
> Has anyone tried this product to make closing the trunk easier? Seems like an overhand grip pull down from the license plate could be much easier compared to an underhand grip from the inside trunk handles.


I would not want to continually be putting that much pressure on the license plate bolts. they (and the holes) were designed just to hold a plate and frame, not anyone pulling on it with the weight of the trunk.

There are hand grips in the plastic trim to pull down on, but personally would like a loop handle myself.


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## garsh (Apr 4, 2016)

MelindaV said:


> There are hand grips in the plastic trim to pull down on, but personally would like a loop handle myself.


The problem is that you can't gain enough momentum using those interior hand holds to close the trunk. You still have to push it down the rest of the way from the outside somehow.


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## SoFlaModel3 (Apr 15, 2017)

garsh said:


> The problem is that you can't gain enough momentum using those interior hand holds to close the trunk. You still have to push it down the rest of the way from the outside somehow.


With time comes muscle memory -- I can close the trunk from the inside handle without slamming it or getting my hand caught. I would say 5% (or less) of the time, my trunk doesn't close all the way now.


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## Kizzy (Jul 25, 2016)

SoFlaModel3 said:


> With time comes muscle memory -- I can close the trunk from the inside handle without slamming it or getting my hand caught. I would say 5% (or less) of the time, my trunk doesn't close all the way now.


But is it ergonomic to do so?


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## Bokonon (Apr 13, 2017)

Kizzy said:


> But is it ergonomic to do so?


I've been closing the trunk exclusively with the interior handles this week to try to get a feel for it, and it actually feels surprisingly natural to me (as someone who is 5'9"). The motion is similar to pulling down on an overhead handle, kind of like you're blowing the whistle on a train or trying to convince a semi-truck driver to blare the horn. You naturally let go of the handle about halfway down, and the downward momentum of your arm naturally carries your hand inward toward your body, so there's little danger of closing the lid on your hand. The amount of pulling force required takes a little getting used to, but it's not a lot... I'd call it an "assertive" pull.

There are also interior handles on both sides of the lid, so choice of hand shouldn't make a difference.


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## SoFlaModel3 (Apr 15, 2017)

Kizzy said:


> But is it ergonomic to do so?


I can't really say it better than @Bokonon who is spot on. You just pull down with the right amount of force and momentum takes care of the rest.


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## Tesla Newbie (Aug 2, 2017)

SoFlaModel3 said:


> I can't really say it better than @Bokonon who is spot on. You just pull down with the right amount of force and momentum takes care of the rest.


I sense a video in your future!


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## SoFlaModel3 (Apr 15, 2017)

Tesla Newbie said:


> I sense a video in your future!


I think everyone was already angry about 2 videos on the trunk's design flaw with the seals. Not to mention a suggestion that my issue with the trunk was a lack of gym time. Yeah... that's YouTube


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## MelindaV (Apr 2, 2016)

SoFlaModel3 said:


> I think everyone was already angry about 2 videos on the trunk's design flaw with the seals. Not to mention a suggestion that my issue with the trunk was a lack of gym time. Yeah... that's YouTube


you mean you read the youtube comments?! 
stop doing that


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## SoFlaModel3 (Apr 15, 2017)

MelindaV said:


> you mean you read the youtube comments?!
> stop doing that


I think it's important -- I mean you ignore the silly stuff, but I have had some good feedback as well that I have used to buy new/better gear and improve my videos!


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## systemBuilder (Jul 1, 2018)

My P3D+ Frunk is extremely hard to get latched. When I pull it down, I have to use 2 hands firmly on both sides of the 'T' to get it to latch, and sometimes I have to press down hard 2 or even 3 times to get it to latch, there is so much pressure in the latch rejecting the frunk - do others have this problem?


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## garsh (Apr 4, 2016)

systemBuilder said:


> My P3D+ Frunk is extremely hard to get latched. When I pull it down, I have to use 2 hands firmly on both sides of the 'T' to get it to latch, and sometimes I have to press down hard 2 or even 3 times to get it to latch, there is so much pressure in the latch rejecting the frunk - do others have this problem?


Yes.

The best technique I've found is to apply steadily increasing pressure until it clicks, instead of pushing down with a hard jerk.


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## kort677 (Sep 17, 2018)

to me this is one of the bigger differences between my S and the 3, I miss the power hatch from the S


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## roflwaffle (Sep 25, 2017)

The trunk took a fair bit of force when the car was brand new, but now I can close it with my index finger. It's the same with the doors too.

My guess is that Tesla skips breaking in the latches because they want to build as many cars as they can ASAP.


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## xilex (Oct 2, 2018)

So far, nobody has bent the trunk from closing it with so much force using the inner handles, correct?


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## PNWmisty (Aug 19, 2017)

xilex said:


> So far, nobody has bent the trunk from closing it with so much force using the inner handles, correct?


The trunk is seriously strong. I'm having trouble visualizing how it could bend simply by slamming it closed with too much force.


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## xilex (Oct 2, 2018)

PNWmisty said:


> The trunk is seriously strong. I'm having trouble visualizing how it could bend simply by slamming it closed with too much force.


The Tesla guy said careful with the frunk when closing, etc. Is the trunk made of different material than the hood? It feels like the struts are pretty strong (saw this video 



 he's saying ~130 pounds of force?). I'm not sure how a strut mechanically works. Does it apply maximum force when it is most extended, with more force the faster you pull, and then less when it is shortened? So in that case, pulling down with that much force/speed puts all the stress where the strut attaches to the hood, and it can bend around that point.


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## PNWmisty (Aug 19, 2017)

xilex said:


> The Tesla guy said careful with the frunk when closing, etc. Is the trunk made of different material than the hood? It feels like the struts are pretty strong (saw this video he's saying ~130 pounds of force?). I'm not sure how a strut mechanically works. Does it apply maximum force when it is most extended, with more force the faster you pull, and then less when it is shortened? So in that case, pulling down with that much force/speed puts all the stress where the strut attaches to the hood, and it can bend around that point.


The trunk struts mount to some pretty thick steel. Good luck trying to bend it with a fast close.

I find the motion to have good ergonomics but it's not that intuitive. Once you figure out the direction and speed of motion it's quite easy.


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## xilex (Oct 2, 2018)

PNWmisty said:


> I find the motion to have good ergonomics but it's not that intuitive. Once you figure out the direction and speed of motion it's quite easy.


Ya, mine is fresh off the line and it's been opened/closed fewer than 10 times, hopefully with time it will be smoother. I'm like struggling to close it with one hand pulling down on the inner handle, make me look so weak. My old car had no struts on the trunk so closing was pretty easy with the inner handle.


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## John (Apr 16, 2016)

I thought newer VINs had easier to close trunks, but just for reference, here's another link to the $11 solution for making the trunk easier to close. Requires a simple screwdriver and less than 5 minutes to replace.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/strongarm,6304,lift+support,1404


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## garsh (Apr 4, 2016)

xilex said:


> Ya, mine is fresh off the line and it's been opened/closed fewer than 10 times, hopefully with time it will be smoother. I'm like struggling to close it with one hand pulling down on the inner handle, make me look so weak. My old car had no struts on the trunk so closing was pretty easy with the inner handle.


I suggest making sure the black rubber seal is completely seated the entire way around the trunk opening. It's a quick thing to check, and if it's not seated completely, that would make it harder to close.

I've actually been getting pretty good at the "close via inner handle" motion. I can usually close it correctly on the first try now.


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## John (Apr 16, 2016)

Try the strut replacement. It's probably the cheapest and simplest to install mod available for Model 3, and it completely solved the problem for me. I can't remember the last time the trunk didn't close—even with an armful of groceries—and when I first got it it was hit or miss.


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## John A Bailey (May 25, 2018)

Petra said:


> Interesting... I didn't play with the trunk lid on the Model 3 I drove last weekend--I guess I should have. One thing I can say is that Tesla was using gas struts that were _way _too strong on the manual Model S hatch a while back (you had to practically throw it closed). After one of my hatch struts failed, the service center replaced both with new struts that lacked Tesla markings (the replacements were marked Stabilus, a common supplier of these parts) and the hatch opens fine and has been really easy to close ever since.


My model s had strabilus manual struts as well and they did fail eventually , after warranty expired, of course. They are also found in Mercedes. BTW I found off brand replacements from England for less than 50.00 for 2. I have not had an issue with the model 3 though. It seems just right to me.


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## xilex (Oct 2, 2018)

garsh said:


> I suggest making sure the black rubber seal is completely seated the entire way around the trunk opening. It's a quick thing to check, and if it's not seated completely, that would make it harder to close.
> 
> I've actually been getting pretty good at the "close via inner handle" motion. I can usually close it correctly on the first try now.











Is that a seal that is not complete?



John said:


> Try the strut replacement. It's probably the cheapest and simplest to install mod available for Model 3, and it completely solved the problem for me. I can't remember the last time the trunk didn't close-even with an armful of groceries-and when I first got it it was hit or miss.


Thanks, I will keep this in mind if it doesn't improve. I've been avoiding using the trunk since getting the car.


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## PNWmisty (Aug 19, 2017)

xilex said:


> View attachment 17535
> 
> I've been avoiding using the trunk since getting the car.


??? Your trunk is so difficult to close you've been avoiding using it??? You might consider taking it to Tesla service or requesting Mobile Service. Because that doesn't sound normal.


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## garsh (Apr 4, 2016)

xilex said:


> View attachment 17535
> 
> 
> Is that a seal that is not complete?


No, that's just a gap between the body and the rear plastic bumper. It has no effect on trunk closing or sealing. It's a shame that such a gap exists, but it's only visible when the trunk is open, so I wouldn't bother trying to get anything adjusted to try to close that gap.


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## John (Apr 16, 2016)

xilex said:


> View attachment 17535
> 
> 
> Is that a seal that is not complete?
> ...


I wasn't exaggerating how easy it is to install new struts. 
They just clip in.
And: $11.


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## Quicksilver (Dec 29, 2016)

Interesting to still see folks having issues with closing the trunk. I think checking the seal around the trunk opening as @garsh suggested is a common suggestion. I must be lucky or something but from day 1, my trunk closes with minimal force, I can close it with two fingers and no slamming. The same with all the doors, a light push will close them with no fuss.


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## xilex (Oct 2, 2018)

Okay, update because good news. After opening and closing the trunk for the fourth time, it has become easier. I still have to use both handles at this time, but I can pull down and with a relatively smooth motion and close the trunk plus latch it on its own without too much blunt force and not having to touch the paint.


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## GDN (Oct 30, 2017)

John said:


> I thought newer VINs had easier to close trunks, ......


I didn't read all of this thread, just the last page, but from my sample size of 2, the trunk has been made a bit easier to close. June 9 delivery, still pretty stiff to pull down, but does close OK, Nov 20 delivery, definitely a slight change, much easier to push down and close the last 12 inches or so. I'd say a tweak of some sort has been made.


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## PNWmisty (Aug 19, 2017)

GDN said:


> I didn't read all of this thread, just the last page, but from my sample size of 2, the trunk has been made a bit easier to close. June 9 delivery, still pretty stiff to pull down, but does close OK, Nov 20 delivery, definitely a slight change, much easier to push down and close the last 12 inches or so. I'd say a tweak of some sort has been made.


Our May 15th delivery and our Sept. 30 delivery were parked back to back tonight. I opened and closed them with one hand (smooth, easy, accelerating downward pull) 4 or 5 times, back to back. I couldn't feel any difference between them. But the pneumatic cylinders do have different numbers on them for what that's worth.

Personally, I think they are easy to close with one hand but I recall at first, when the first one was new, it seemed like the timing and speed were tricky to get just right. But now they seem easy and both close without any special effort or concentration. I think it's just a matter of familiarity. It's very similar to our Volvo, in both weight and effort, now that I've learned it (and I recall having to do the same with the Volvo when it was new).


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## garsh (Apr 4, 2016)

GDN said:


> I didn't read all of this thread, just the last page, but from my sample size of 2, the trunk has been made a bit easier to close. June 9 delivery, still pretty stiff to pull down, but does close OK, Nov 20 delivery, definitely a slight change, much easier to push down and close the last 12 inches or so. I'd say a tweak of some sort has been made.


Can you compare them a little more closely?

Compare the hinges. I don't expect there to be any difference, but something may have been changed here. Check to see that all legs are the same length.
Compare the struts. @PNWmisty mentions that his two cars have different part numbers on the struts. Can you find & post the part numbers?


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## xilex (Oct 2, 2018)

PNWmisty said:


> Our May 15th delivery and our Sept. 30 delivery were parked back to back tonight. I opened and closed them with one hand (smooth, easy, accelerating downward pull) 4 or 5 times, back to back. I couldn't feel any difference between them. But the pneumatic cylinders do have different numbers on them for what that's worth.
> 
> Personally, I think they are easy to close with one hand but I recall at first, when the first one was new, it seemed like the timing and speed were tricky to get just right. But now they seem easy and both close without any special effort or concentration. I think it's just a matter of familiarity. It's very similar to our Volvo, in both weight and effort, now that I've learned it (and I recall having to do the same with the Volvo when it was new).


I'm wondering if closing with one hand puts uneven stress on the trunk that is detrimental, since both sides are supported by pressurized struts.


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## GDN (Oct 30, 2017)

So the best way to describe the difference is it seems on the newer car about 15 inches before close there is less pressure from the struts and it just closes easier. They both take about the same strength to pull down to that point, but the close is just a little gentler and easier for the black one. I've measure and looked at the struts and build of the hinges, they all look identical. The only thing really picture worth is a sticker on the first car built in May, that does exist on the November build car. 

As far as closing with one hand, I always pull it down with one of the two handles and then use the other hand and push on the license plate and close it without touching the exterior of the trunk.


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## PNWmisty (Aug 19, 2017)

xilex said:


> I'm wondering if closing with one hand puts uneven stress on the trunk that is detrimental, since both sides are supported by pressurized struts.


No, the hinges are steel, there is not enough side force to cause a problem. Our Volvo was a very similar design of scissor hinge with dual pnumatic struts and we closed it one-handed for 19 years and it still worked like new.


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## PNWmisty (Aug 19, 2017)

GDN said:


> So the best way to describe the difference is it seems on the newer car about 15 inches before close there is less pressure from the struts and it just closes easier. They both take about the same strength to pull down to that point, but the close is just a little gentler and easier for the black one. I've measure and looked at the struts and build of the hinges, they all look identical.


I don't doubt that there is some tiny difference (because the struts have different numbers on them). But I just spent 10 minutes doing more
tests, like slow lifts, short drops, quick drops, quick lifts, and I can't notice even a slight difference. I even verified they balanced at the same level of lift and began lifting at the same point of travel.

Disclaimer: The older Model 3 has an estimated 540 open/close cycles while the newer one only has 60 open/close cycles so it could be the newer one might end up slightly looser over time.


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## TheMagician (Oct 15, 2018)

John said:


> Try the strut replacement. It's probably the cheapest and simplest to install mod available for Model 3, and it completely solved the problem for me. I can't remember the last time the trunk didn't close-even with an armful of groceries-and when I first got it it was hit or miss.


I agree with you John. Don't like the way the trunk closes. Will probably try this. Was at the SC the other day ordering the towing hook door I broke because of you  Someone pulled in with a S and opened their trunk and then shut it with a push of a button. Made me sad that Tesla cheaped out.


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## PNWmisty (Aug 19, 2017)

TheMagician said:


> Someone pulled in with a S and opened their trunk and then shut it with a push of a button. Made me sad that Tesla cheaped out.


I' just happy that it works so well. The fact that it's not motorised has it's plusses also. Maybe it doesn't bother me because I grew up using the trunks on 60's and 70's American sedans. These had NO handles and you had to put your hands on the top of the trunk and slam it downwards. Worse than that, to open them you had to get out these little metal "swords" (we called them "keys"), find the correct sword (sometimes different from the one that opened the front doors), then we would "stab" the sword into this little slot. After you turned the key the trunk latch would open but then you would have to turn the key back to center and remove it (before the trunk was fully opened or you might not be able to reach that high).

If the little slot was frozen you might need to hold the hopefully warm key in there while putting pressure on it like you were trying to open it. If it didn't open in about 15 seconds you could put the key in your mouth to warm it back up before trying it again. If it didn't eventually open you might decide you didn't need to get in there anyway (because there was no access to the trunk area from the back seats). If you REALLY needed to get in there (and you hadn't already twisted the key off in the slot), and there was no hot water handy, you might need to pee on it. But before taking such drastic action, you might warm it up with various fingers until they went numb so your lips didn't freeze to the perimeter when you bent over to blow some warm air in there.

So, no, I don't really mind pushing a rubberized button to open the trunk. Or touching the screen of my smartphone from a warm dry place. I guess you could call me "old fashioned" to be so pleased with such archaic trunk functionality. I imagine in the future, a motorized trunk lid will be considered essential:


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## xilex (Oct 2, 2018)

GDN said:


> As far as closing with one hand, I always pull it down with one of the two handles and then use the other hand and push on the license plate and close it without touching the exterior of the trunk.


Cool. I might put PPF behind license plate and use this technique, too.



PNWmisty said:


> No, the hinges are steel, there is not enough side force to cause a problem. Our Volvo was a very similar design of scissor hinge with dual pnumatic struts and we closed it one-handed for 19 years and it still worked like new.


Okay, I will try one-handed technique after I get the two-hand closure down better. I will trust you. Hopefully it is stronger than the frunk hood. I was closing it like they said: drop down, push with increasing pressure on the two sides until it latches. Felt the hood bend a little bit just trying to close it slowly like that.


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## TheMagician (Oct 15, 2018)

PNWmisty said:


> I' just happy that it works so well. The fact that it's not motorised has it's plusses also. Maybe it doesn't bother me because I grew up using the trunks on 60's and 70's American sedans. These had NO handles and you had to put your hands on the top of the trunk and slam it downwards. Worse than that, to open them you had to get out these little metal "swords" (we called them "keys"), find the correct sword (sometimes different from the one that opened the front doors), then we would "stab" the sword into this little slot. After you turned the key the trunk latch would open but then you would have to turn the key back to center and remove it (before the trunk was fully opened or you might not be able to reach that high).
> 
> If the little slot was frozen you might need to hold the hopefully warm key in there while putting pressure on it like you were trying to open it. If it didn't open in about 15 seconds you could put the key in your mouth to warm it back up before trying it again. If it didn't eventually open you might decide you didn't need to get in there anyway (because there was no access to the trunk area from the back seats). If you REALLY needed to get in there (and you hadn't already twisted the key off in the slot), and there was no hot water handy, you might need to pee on it. But before taking such drastic action, you might warm it up with various fingers until they went numb so your lips didn't freeze to the perimeter when you bent over to blow some warm air in there.
> 
> So, no, I don't really mind pushing a rubberized button to open the trunk. Or touching the screen of my smartphone from a warm dry place. I guess you could call me "old fashioned" to be so pleased with such archaic trunk functionality. I imagine in the future, a motorized trunk lid will be considered essential:


Maybe you could contact Tesla and request they remove your brake booster


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## PNWmisty (Aug 19, 2017)

TheMagician said:


> Maybe you could contact Tesla and request they remove your brake booster


Then I would lose Enhanced Auto-pilot, Traffic Aware Cruise Control and Automatic Emergency Braking functionality.


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## Bernard (Aug 3, 2017)

xilex said:


> The Tesla guy said careful with the frunk when closing, etc. Is the trunk made of different material than the hood? It feels like the struts are pretty strong (saw this video
> 
> 
> 
> he's saying ~130 pounds of force?). I'm not sure how a strut mechanically works. Does it apply maximum force when it is most extended, with more force the faster you pull, and then less when it is shortened? So in that case, pulling down with that much force/speed puts all the stress where the strut attaches to the hood, and it can bend around that point.


Works on gas compression, so maximum force is when most compressed, i.e., when shortest. So when you open, the force is maximum and as the lid rises the force decreases; and as you close, the force starts small and increases as the lid comes down.
I have no problem closing the trunk one-handed from the inside pull handle, but it takes a fast start and a long pull on that inner handle and my wife cannot do it. I've toyed with the idea of bleeding the struts just a little bit to reduce their force, trading a little extra effort to open for less effort closing, but have not yet tried it, as I am slightly worried that the fully open trunk lid might then move too easily in the wind and potentially clobber one of us in the head as we handle groceries...


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## PNWmisty (Aug 19, 2017)

Bernard said:


> Works on gas compression, so maximum force is when most compressed, i.e., when shortest. So when you open, the force is maximum and as the lid rises the force decreases; and as you close, the force starts small and increases as the lid comes down.


That would be true if the travel of the pneumatic cylinder was linear relative to the trunk position but it's not. It's all about geometry, trigonometry to be specific.


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## Bernard (Aug 3, 2017)

PNWmisty said:


> That would be true if the travel of the pneumatic cylinder was linear relative to the trunk position but it's not. It's all about geometry, trigonometry to be specific.


Right, I was writing about the force along the strut, not the angular force and it's the angular force that matters in terms of what's needed to open or close (or keep open) the lid.


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## Gordon87 (Mar 5, 2019)

ATown312 said:


> https://www.rpmtesla.com/collection...del-3-tailgate-closing-handle-only-28-with-20
> 
> Has anyone tried this product to make closing the trunk easier? Seems like an overhand grip pull down from the license plate could be much easier compared to an underhand grip from the inside trunk handles.


I had something like that on a prior car and would have used it, but a repair shop replaced my old license plate frame with one with their name on it and I lost the metal handle in the process. The handle worked ok. The advantage was that it was hardly noticeable.

I just received and installed my clear plastic license plate handle. It seems to work pretty well. I am somewhat concerned about having to remove the license plate and reinstall it as I have a 12/2018 build without a license plate back frame. People have noted that the grommets in the trunk can break or slip if one removes and re-screws the plate in (and I will need to do this again later this year when I get the Illinois EL plates, but I figure if I have a problem, the Tesla SC is close by).

This is what I got on Amazon:


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