# Sticky string patch



## bwilson4web (Mar 4, 2019)

Too close to edge for tire shop (see below) still in tread, took it home only to discover my tire inflator was FUBAR. Visited Walmart for a simpler inflator. In 30 minutes, repair done. We drive 150 miles without a problem. With ~10k miles on tire, very pleased with results.

Bob Wilson


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## sduck (Nov 23, 2017)

Glad to hear that worked! Fortunately I haven't needed to use it yet, but I carry a Dynaplug tire repair kit -


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## bwilson4web (Mar 4, 2019)

About the sticky string method:

Find leak - drive to the nearest, safe place to examine the tire. Feel the tire and locate the offending puncture relative to the valve. You may need to move car enough to identify what caused the problem.
Give tire store the first repair option - use your 12 V air pump to keep pressure up and stop at a tire store. In my case, the puncture was within a thumb length of edge and they refused the repair. Note that the OEM tires have a foam liner which can also complicate the repair but discuss with the manager. If they turn you down, it is 'Sticky String' time.
Extra tools and prepare - you will need something to take out the puncture object like needle nose pliers (I like vice grip style) and a medium size, 1/4" or 6 mm wide, flat screw driver. You need a razor sharp knife to trim the string and at least one rubber glove to keep the sticky stuff off your hands. Drive to a safe place for the repair. Wear a hat for sun, cold, or rain. For a front tire, position tire so the puncture is at 90 degrees either front or rear and turn the wheel to the stop so it is easy to access. For a rear tire, move so you have as much space as possible.
Doing the repair - remove the puncture object carefully noting where it came from. Insert the ream tool in the puncture which takes strength, and make sure it goes all the way in. Let all the air out by holding down the Schrader valve so you can line the puncture hole with the contact cement.
Inserting the sticky string - put on a glove and push/pull the sticky string into the insertion tool. The needle nose pliers can really help by flattening the string and pulling it through the tool eye. Put a glob of contact cement over the hole and press and release tire to suck it in. Lining the hole significantly reduces any small leaks and lubricates string insertion. Glob up the sticky string and push in ... WHOLE strength. Leave about 1/2" or 12 mm sticking out of tire and pull the insertion tool out ... strength. Pause so contact cement closes any pin hole paths by cleaning up the tools and connecting the 12 V air pump. Inflate the tire. Trim the sticky string flush with the tire tread.
Testing - if you have a soapy water like windshield fluid, splash and look for bubbles showing a leak. Do a test drive followed by the soapy water test. Check pressure in a log scale timeline: 1 week, 1 month, 6 months, and annually. If it still has a slow leak, you can repeat repair using a hand drill but order your replacement tire(s). Use the 12 V air pump until the new tire(s) arrive.
Ordering and replacing tires is an art beyond my approach. My Prius experience included 'staggered' tires where the front and rear are different so solve a 2003 stability problem. I use low rolling resistance tires and *Tire Rack* has a good selection with reviews. My 2019 Std Rng Plus Model 3 is running staggered, Bridgestone ECOPIA, with smaller tires in front and slightly larger ones on the rear drive wheels. The maximum tire pressure, 51 psi, gives crisper handling, longer life, and resistance to hydroplaning but a harsher ride over potholes.


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