# Left Front Wheel Control Arm Fell Off Without ANY incident!!!



## Barry0 (5 mo ago)

The control arm of my Model 3's front wheel just came completely off without any incident. And the Tesla Service Center is stating I will need to pay out of pocket because it's outside my "Basic Vehicle Warranty" (which just expired a couple of months ago). It just feels like I am being asked to pay for a defect (bad build quality) that wasn't caused by me. It doesn't quite make sense.

I have been driving my Model 3 without ANY incident/accident since 2018. The only maintenance I've ever had was a CPU upgrade for FSD. Fast forward to this morning. While backing out of my garage, I heard a strange squeaky noise from the front wheel area. It was then followed by a huge "BAM!" as I started to turn my steering wheel. By then, the vehicle felt "stuck" as if something was preventing the car from moving. Upon inspecting the left front wheel, I noticed the control arm just fell off and was dragging on the ground!!! What?! I've never seen this happen by itself to a car without any incident.

So I scheduled a service visit via Tesla mobile app and was informed that I will need to pay out of pocket to tow my car to the service center. Not only that, they are now saying I will also need to pay out of pocket for the repair since my "Basic Vehicle Warranty" has expired (and Drive Unit Warranty doesn't cover it). The final cost will depend on what they find upon further inspection.

My understanding is that the control arm defect is a known issue (though my VIN isn't on Tesla's recall list). I would understand I need to pay out of pocket for control arm repair IF I had an accident. BUT this just happened by itself without any reason. So basically, I'm being told to pay for an issue that wasn't caused by me. It just doesn't make sense. Not sure if this has happened to anyone.


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## garsh (Apr 4, 2016)

Barry0 said:


> It just feels like I am being asked to pay for a defect (bad build quality) that wasn't caused by me.


Build defects generally don't show up after 50,000 miles. I think the blame is better placed on whatever garage performed your safety inspections.


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## iChris93 (Feb 3, 2017)

Barry0 said:


> My understanding is that the control arm defect is a known issue (though my VIN isn't on Tesla's recall list).


Upper control arm creak, yes. Nothing that I know of with the lower control arm.


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## android04 (Sep 20, 2017)

garsh said:


> Build defects generally don't show up after 50,000 miles. I think the blame is better placed on whatever garage performed your safety inspections.


They might be out of warranty based on time (4 years) and not miles, so they might have way less than 50k miles.



iChris93 said:


> Upper control arm creak, yes. Nothing that I know of with the lower control arm.


I am also unaware of any recalls for Model 3 due to lower control arms. However, some early Model Y did have issues with undertorqued lower suspension bolts.



Barry0 said:


> The control arm of my Model 3's front wheel just came completely off without any incident. And the Tesla Service Center is stating I will need to pay out of pocket because it's outside my "Basic Vehicle Warranty" (which just expired a couple of months ago). It just feels like I am being asked to pay for a defect (bad build quality) that wasn't caused by me. It doesn't quite make sense.
> 
> I have been driving my Model 3 without ANY incident/accident since 2018. The only maintenance I've ever had was a CPU upgrade for FSD. Fast forward to this morning. While backing out of my garage, I heard a strange squeaky noise from the front wheel area. It was then followed by a huge "BAM!" as I started to turn my steering wheel. By then, the vehicle felt "stuck" as if something was preventing the car from moving. Upon inspecting the left front wheel, I noticed the control arm just fell off and was dragging on the ground!!! What?! I've never seen this happen by itself to a car without any incident.
> 
> ...


How many miles does your car have and have you ever taken it to a business to replace tires or do vehicle inspections. Did you notice any suspension/steering anomalies before this happened, or was this sudden?

It's kind of strange that the lower control arm just fell down with the two bolts still on it, so the two nuts likely came off (or were taken off) at the same time. It's also possible that the bolts were kind of held in place by pressure between the two components and that they slowly wiggled down. But good thing they dropped the last little bit while the car was parked.


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## Power Surge (Jan 6, 2022)

I'm an auto tech for a living. What I'm seeing in that picture, is the control arm sitting there with the bolts still in it. That is an EXTREMELY odd thing to happen. The chances of BOTH bolts backing off, at the same rate to where they both came out of the body at the same time has got to be a billion to one. Usually one bolt might be loose and work it's way out and fall off, and then the second bolt would follow behind it. Something really odd about it. 

As for warranty, if you're out of warranty, you're out. It doesn't matter that it's not your "fault". The car is 4 years old. Defects usually show up within a year of new. After 4 years? Kind of hard to blame the manufacturer. 

Also, you need tires.


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## Klaus-rf (Mar 6, 2019)

Looks like those vertical bolts have a rerainer clip that holds them to the control arm. Making installation easier and preventing them from falling out. I cannot think of any other reason the bolts are still there.

Someday I'll look through the parts manual diagrams and list to see how they're retained.


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## Madmolecule (Oct 8, 2018)

iChris93 said:


> Upper control arm creak, yes. Nothing that I know of with the lower control arm.


Just had my upper arm replaced on the driver side, out of warranty they also replace the passenger side for the second time. The first time it was replaced under warranty. I hope they got this figured out so you can get more than 50,000 miles on it. It did cost me $375 when the estimate was around 280. To be clear it was just creaking, like a rusty gate hinge. I had this done at the Kennesaw service center which is so much better than the other Atlanta Area service centers I’ve been to.


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## tivoboy (Mar 24, 2017)

Take a bunch of pictures… there should be NO REASON for that to happen unless a locking nut was missing, or no lock - tight was applied, both are manufacturing errors or failures that should be remedied by OEM


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## Barry0 (5 mo ago)

Thanks guys for all the feedback! To give an update, Tesla has finally come back with an estimate, and it costs $1,606.39 before tax. The invoice actually does not say anything about the control arm; instead, it’s the subframe that needs replacement. 

I am still unclear why the control arm issue would connect to subframe?? And they still haven’t given me an update on why it happened. Will follow up with them.

Here is the invoice for the subframe.










Here is a photo I snapped right before the car was towed. Not sure what I am looking at anyway lol.


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## Shilliard528 (May 29, 2021)

Wow, that is one clean underside for a 2018 with thousands of miles. Sorry I could not be more help on the cause.


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## garsh (Apr 4, 2016)

Barry0 said:


> I am still unclear why the control arm issue would connect to subframe??


That's what the control arm bolts to - the subframe. So apparently something broke on the subframe which caused those bolts to fall out?


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## android04 (Sep 20, 2017)

garsh said:


> That's what the control arm bolts to - the subframe. So apparently something broke on the subframe which caused those bolts to fall out?


I wonder if the quote was generated before Tesla got the car. It could be a worst case scenario quote and the subframe might not actually need to be replaced. I'm guessing that OP's car is a RWD and there's no front motor to deal with, otherwise I think a subframe replacement would be a bit more expensive.


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## JasonF (Oct 26, 2018)

android04 said:


> I wonder if the quote was generated before Tesla got the car. It could be a worst case scenario quote and the subframe might not actually need to be replaced. I'm guessing that OP's car is a RWD and there's no front motor to deal with, otherwise I think a subframe replacement would be a bit more expensive.


It's probably close either way, a motor being there wouldn't really add too much extra labor because of the method they use to remove it in either case.

I would absolutely ask the service center service advisor to see if they can get it partially covered under warranty. That kind of damage should never occur unless the car has been in a crash (or hit something on the ground). It had to be either a defect in the part from the factory, or the entire subframe was loose from day 1, and kept twisting until something fell out.


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## tivoboy (Mar 24, 2017)

Yeah, it looks like the outer part of the subframe where it holds in the bolts from the control arm has broken off.. I can’t see a reason for that and frankly a curb or parking bumper wouldn’t really do that unless one had hit it at it at an angle. I think this is a subframe metallic failure, take shots of the other side if you can get it. I know it’s OOW but I’d press them hard on this.


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## Jim H (Feb 11, 2017)

Power Surge said:


> I'm an auto tech for a living. What I'm seeing in that picture, is the control arm sitting there with the bolts still in it. That is an EXTREMELY odd thing to happen. The chances of BOTH bolts backing off, at the same rate to where they both came out of the body at the same time has got to be a billion to one. Usually one bolt might be loose and work it's way out and fall off, and then the second bolt would follow behind it. Something really odd about it.
> 
> As for warranty, if you're out of warranty, you're out. It doesn't matter that it's not your "fault". The car is 4 years old. Defects usually show up within a year of new. After 4 years? Kind of hard to blame the manufacturer.
> 
> Also, you need tires.


Agree, this is odd. Torn a lot of suspensions off and on over the years. If lower arm was working itself loose you should have heard some noise before the bolts dropped the arm. 
Out of warranty, your cost. Jack it up, pull wheel and put arm back in place and torque it down. Should be fine as long as you didn't drive with dropped arm. May want to check other side as well. 

I think I'll take a look at mine, no noise but your post make me want to check it out.

Agree on the tires


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## thu88 (2 mo ago)

Hi, Barry0, I have a similar problem with my Model 3 yesterday. The 2 bolts of the rear lower control arm fell off and the control arm hit the ground. Fortunately, this happened when I was parking my car at a commercial complex parting lot. When I made a left turn to the parking spot, I felt something drop from my car in the front and heard the scratching sound when the car was moving. I stopped the car right away and found 2 bolts spread and the control arm hit the ground. As my car warranty expired just 2 months ago, Tesla likes to charge me $16K+ similar as yours for front subframe and the control arm replacement. This problem is a life threatening problem and I have never had this kind of issue in my previous 35 years driving experience (with different brands of course). I think this should not be just a simple warranty coverage issue. This car defect should never happen. 2 loose bolts fell off at the same time?! May I ask what the solution that Tesla finalized with you? Did you get full or partial discount from Tesla after your arguing with them? Please advise. Thanks


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## tivoboy (Mar 24, 2017)

Wow!! that is about 1/3 of the original price of the car, maybe 1/4... JUST for the sub frame? what a crock.


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## thu88 (2 mo ago)

tivoboy said:


> Wow!! that is about 1/3 of the original price of the car, maybe 1/4... JUST for the sub frame? what a crock.


Sorry, typo, $1.6K. But still it's a heavy charge which should be on Tesla no matter the warranty coverage period. It should never happen in my point of view. Not sure whether I can sue Tesla for this life-threatening incident.


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## Klaus-rf (Mar 6, 2019)

Create a case with NHTSA. Definitely a serious safety issue - and it's happened to more than one vehicle.


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## tivoboy (Mar 24, 2017)

Sounds slightly more reasonable now.. I would continue to pursue Tesla.. BOLTS like that should not be just coming off with regular use, they either were the wrong bolts without a locking mechanism or some type of lock-tite or safety pin was missed in either engineering or manufacture. Thank god these things are happen at rest and not at speed on the highway or on a curve at pace. I have a feeling some type of safety recall might be in the future for these models, since it seems to happen to vehicles done in 2018 and are now just out of warranty. That was the end of the higher HAND MADE period of early M3 production.


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## Mohre (22 d ago)

My son just had the same issue. The model 3 is being towed to Tesla now. Thank god he was in a parking lot. 52,000 miles. So out of warranty. Purchased in 2018.


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## Mohre (22 d ago)




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## tivoboy (Mar 24, 2017)

That is just BEAT!… its hard to tell exactly where the fail point is, but it looks as if there is some attach point in the sub frame that this arm attaches to - that is just GONE. I’m going to have to get under the car and check this out before my next 500 mile road trip.

I’d love to hear from others what the FIX is and the parts used - and of course COST.


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## iChris93 (Feb 3, 2017)

tivoboy said:


> but it looks as if there is some attach point in the sub frame that this arm attaches to - that is just GONE.


It doesn’t look that way to me. Looks like the bolts backed out.


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## tivoboy (Mar 24, 2017)

iChris93 said:


> It doesn’t look that way to me. Looks like the bolts backed out.


Could be, I see what you mean. I’m surprised though that there wouldn’t be a flat brace/bracket UNDER the control arm bushing. Just to be seated in the U flange there seems easier to mount, but IF bolts break or come loose (there is NO reason those bolts should have come loose) the arm just falls.


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## Power Surge (Jan 6, 2022)

So because this seems to have happened to more than one person, and appears more common on older M3s like my 18, I decided to check mine out on the lift at work the other day.

Happy to report that all my bolts were still nice and tight. 

Upon inspection, I can understand why Tesla replaces the front subframe for this repair. There are two bolts for that control arm attachment. One bolt goes into a nut that's external, and spot welded to the subframe. However, the other bolt is encapsulated inside the subframe, covered by a few pieces that all come together right over that nut, making it impossible to inspect from the top or repair. So you'd need to replace the subframe IF the threads on that nut are damaged. 

Being an auto tech, if this happened to me, I would just cut a small hole next to where the nut sits to be able to access it, and then use a new nut in place of the damaged one. The new hole would allow the use of a wrench to hold it for tightening down the bolt.


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## JasonF (Oct 26, 2018)

I don't have a lift, so I used a mirror and a bright light to examine the construction of the lower control arm. Mine seems to still be firmly attached!

The inner mounting point for the lower control arm does not look like it's designed to have any force applied to it. It's basically just a lockdown point to stop it from falling down (as pictured in the OP). The center bushing is what is designed to absorb suspension forces.

The two forces that could cause the bolts to come out would be: 1) Vibration, which can be mitigated by thread locker, which I don't see in the OP; and 2) Extreme force, such as collision with an object from beneath, or suspension forces too strong for the center bushing to absorb, or unwanted rotational forces. Remember, any forces transmitted all the way to the inner end of the lower control arm are transmitted directly into the car's frame (there is no bushing at that mounting point), which is neither ideal nor normal.

Out of those two, (1) would not require replacement of the subframe - it would simply require reapplying the bolts with some thread locker. The second of the two, (2) above, would require replacement of the subframe as the bolt holders (basically large nuts welded to the subframe) would no longer align with the lower control arm, and/or would no longer have reliable threads.

It's possible that Tesla can't really tell if (1) or (2) occurred, so they're replacing the subframe as a precaution. But after looking at mine, it seems like the photo in the OP, there are some torn undercovers, the outer control arm bushing seems to have separated (left side of the photo), and the subframe mount does not seem to be aligned in its normal location. Therefore it would be normal for Tesla service to suspect that the subframe encountered some extreme force, and recommend replacement.


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