# Firmware Build v9.0 2018.50.6 4ec03ed (1/18/2019)



## Bokonon

Detected on a Model 3 in Kansas this evening.


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## webdriverguy

I still have not received 50.5


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## wst88

Updates seem to be coming out slower and slower. I am guess this is being held up by regulation of the new summon feature Elon was tweeting about?


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## iChris93

wst88 said:


> Updates seem to be coming out slower and slower. I am guess this is being held up by regulation of the new summon feature Elon was tweeting about?


Or still behind from the holidays.


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## FF35

iChris93 said:


> Or still behind from the holidays.


Or because this is how Tesla feels like doing it.


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## iChris93

FF35 said:


> Or because this is how Tesla feels like doing it.


Or because they're busy working on a version for the EU.


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## Dinozero

I assumed it was to fix the headlight flicker problem. Just got 50.6, never had 50


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## NEO

Nothing really new in this update. I am coming from 48.12.1 so the cold weather improvements are new but that is all


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## Bokonon

FYI, according to TeslaFi, there appears to be a push from 48.12.1 to 50.6 underway this evening, starting around 8pm EST. This follows a smaller group updating from 48.12.1 to 49.20 earlier today.


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## GDN

Bokonon said:


> FYI, according to TeslaFi, there appears to be a push from 48.12.1 to 50.6 underway this evening, starting around 8pm EST. This follows a smaller group updating from 48.12.1 to 49.20 earlier today.


Confirmed and found this weird as I see 49.20 had rolled out to a few cars earlier, but just got 50.6 on the RWD in the last 20 minutes. No love for the AWD yet, but thinking I may go give it a reboot, just because I think weird events might trigger it.

I also suspected we might be getting 50.6 because it's gotten a bit colder down here last weekend and another front tonight. Or it might just simply be time Tesla has decided to roll it out.

Edit - before I could get to the garage - AWD just got SW update notification. Both cars within 45 minutes or so. Will go see if there are any release notes.
Edit 2 - Nothing new in the release notes. Same as previous.


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## Solarson

I just had mine updated from 48.12.1 to 50.6. This seems just a cold weather improvements.


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## JeffC

Was stuck on 48.12 for a long time, but just got 50.6 today here in Silicon Valley.


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## PasoWino

Just installed 50.6 in Paso Robles. It was cold this morning, maybe that triggered it.


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## leon2555

I just got notification for software update and got 50.6 jumped from 48.12 in Sillicon Valley region. First time experience for me, month old car!!!


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## sids911

My Model 3 just received the update 2018.50.6 4ec03ed. I am in Southern california. My first time seeing a CAR receive a software update !

Car's headlight turned on and off a couple of times, a loud whirring noise from somewhere in the car for about 30 seconds and some other weird noises later my car is showing latest update.

Not sure what changed though, isn't there a change log published somewhere?


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## Robertg2

Just finished mine too. Release notes are on the "T" page towards the bottom. AWD


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## MelindaV

sids911 said:


> Not sure what changed though, isn't there a change log published somewhere?


when first starting the car after an update, there are release notes on the screen. you can also get to them by tapping the "T" then "release notes" at the bottom of the page, after the FW version.

congrats on the first update!!


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## MelindaV

release notes look identical to those from 48.12.1 though except for the 'cold weather improvements' that were from one of the prior releases (after 48.12.1)


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## Black Francis

Annoying question, so feel free to ignore, but I was able to go from 46 to 50.6 tonight (finally an update) Anyone know what might have gone on between these releases aside from fart mode and being able to preheat specific seats?


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## Bokonon

I know it's early, but... Has anyone with 2018.50.6 noticed their headlights (or other lighting) flickering at any point?

This appears to be a bug introduced in 2018.50, and still present in 2018.50.5. I'm curious whether it was fixed in 2018.50.6.


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## MelindaV

Black Francis said:


> Annoying question, so feel free to ignore, but I was able to go from 46 to 50.6 tonight (finally an update) Anyone know what might have gone on between these releases aside from fart mode and being able to preheat specific seats?


you can open the release notes on your screen and scroll down. it'll list the prior updates (until you come to things you had previously), or find the FW threads here and read what others found in them
(but overall, I think you got the main points - new teslatari game, emissions, romance, climate control can stay on after exiting car (dog mode), seat heaters from the app (my absolute favorite!), and cold weather improvements


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## planetary

3 week old car in SF Bay Area, first ever software update, around 8pm. Looking at my wifi router's stats, the download was about 500MB in size.


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## MelindaV

Went out for about a 10 mile drive after installing. 

steering out of auto-steer still resets the speed 😠 if going less than the max set speed
didn't notice any lights flickering
before leaving I did open the app (iOS) to pre-heat, and it seemed like it is back to taking a really long time to connect (like it did prior to 48.12.x)


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## Needsdecaf

How do I tell which SW update I'm going to get? Sorry about the noob question. I just got the notification this morning that one is available but I can't see where there is a place that shows you which version it is. 

Thanks.


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## Needsdecaf

MelindaV said:


> Went out for about a 10 mile drive after installing.
> 
> steering out of auto-steer still resets the speed 😠 if going less than the max set speed
> didn't notice any lights flickering
> before leaving I did open the app (iOS) to pre-heat, and it seemed like it is back to taking a really long time to connect (like it did prior to 48.12.x)


My car was delivered with 48.12. It never work up quickly and has been getting slower and slower over the almost 4 weeks that I have owned it.


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## MelindaV

Maybe because you started with 48.12.q, your concept of quickly is different than mine with the slowness prior (and apparently now) to 48.1.1. 
On 48.12.1 I was regularly getting the app to wake the car in 10-20 seconds. Prior and the time I tried last night and this morning it was more than 40 seconds.


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## iChris93

Needsdecaf said:


> How do I tell which SW update I'm going to get? Sorry about the noob question. I just got the notification this morning that one is available but I can't see where there is a place that shows you which version it is.
> 
> Thanks.


You cannot tell until you update and see what's installed.


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## Bokonon

Needsdecaf said:


> How do I tell which SW update I'm going to get? Sorry about the noob question. I just got the notification this morning that one is available but I can't see where there is a place that shows you which version it is.


You're not missing anything... There's no indication anywhere in the car or in the app that tells you which firmware version is about to be installed. It's all part of the fun. 

During a big update push like last night, if you check M3OC and see what version others are downloading, it's most likely the same version. Otherwise, best of luck, no whammies, etc.


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## Needsdecaf

MelindaV said:


> Maybe because you started with 48.12.q, your concept of quickly is different than mine with the slowness prior (and apparently now) to 48.1.1.
> On 48.12.1 I was regularly getting the app to wake the car in 10-20 seconds. Prior and the time I tried last night and this morning it was more than 40 seconds.


Haha, ok let's define quickly. 

10-20 seconds - this has happened maybe half a dozen times since I have owned the car.

Now is a minute or more. Sometimes never. Sometimes I have to wake the car up by opening the door in order to get it to wake up so I can pre-heat. Glad my garage is only a few feet from the kitchen.

Still on 48.12, just got an update notification.


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## Needsdecaf

iChris93 said:


> You cannot tell until you update and see what's installed.





Bokonon said:


> You're not missing anything... There's no indication anywhere in the car or in the app that tells you which firmware version is about to be installed. It's all part of the fun.
> 
> During a big update push like last night, if you check M3OC and see what version others are downloading, it's mostly the same version. Otherwise, best of luck, no whammies, etc.


Thank you both. Sorry for the noob question, my first SW update. Makes sense to judge by the "herd".


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## GDN

I didn't drive last night after the SW update, but both left the garage at the same time this morning. The 15 seconds or so it took to start and leave the garage I did not see the light flicker from either car. Truly need to evaluate that a little more. I didn't ever have it coming from 48.12.1, but hope they did get it fixed in 50.6


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## MelindaV

GDN said:


> I didn't drive last night after the SW update, but both left the garage at the same time this morning. The 15 seconds or so it took to start and leave the garage I did not see the light flicker from either car. Truly need to evaluate that a little more. I didn't ever have it coming from 48.12.1, but hope they did get it fixed in 50.6


The flickering showed up after 48.12.1


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## Needsdecaf

Wonder if this will bring back my "charging completed" notifications. Not that I really missed them all that much.


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## JeffC

Needsdecaf said:


> Wonder if this will bring back my "charging completed" notifications. Not that I really missed them all that much.


I believe that's settable in the app if you hit the gear icon, then notifications.


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## JustTheTip

JeffC said:


> I believe that's settable in the app if you hit the gear icon, then notifications.


It's been broken for many people since 50.


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## bernie

Getting the update from 48.12 to 50.6, M3 RWD in San Francisco. About 4 mins in to the update a rather loud and startling thunk came from the back and then twice the headlights came on and the car made some whirring sounds then solenoid clicks here and there.


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## Jay79

bernie said:


> Getting the update from 48.12 to 50.6, M3 RWD in San Francisco. About 4 mins in to the update a rather loud and startling thunk came from the back and then twice the headlights came on and the car made some whirring sounds then solenoid clicks here and there.


That means your car is getting excited for its new update


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## Needsdecaf

JeffC said:


> I believe that's settable in the app if you hit the gear icon, then notifications.


I have mine set to notify. See below.



JustTheTip said:


> It's been broken for many people since 50.


I've been on 48.12 since I got my car and it just stopped working.


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## JeffC

JustTheTip said:


> It's been broken for many people since 50.


Ah, ok. I never had 50 until yesterday, and I have the charging complete notification set to off, so I would not have noticed either way.


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## TrevP

Please refrain from shorts posts IE: "yeah I got it too". Please report back if you have something substantial to offer to the group, thanks.


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## Brentt

Autopilot seems to be better. The cars on the monitor aren’t dancing and weaving as they go by. In the past, it looked like they were swerving into my lane, but they are much more realistic now.


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## Bokonon

FYI: per TeslaFi, a few Model 3s (starting with our VIN 85XXX canary in Nevada) have started updating to 50.6 from 50.5 and 50. We could see another push for folks on 50.x starting later today. Hopefully that would mean that the flickering-lights issue is fixed in 50.6.


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## garsh

TrevP said:


> Please refrain from shorts posts IE: "yeah I got it too". Please report back if you have something substantial to offer to the group, thanks.


If you're tempted to say "me too" (or "I didn't get it yet"), then scroll up to the top of the page and answer the "Did you get the firmware update" poll question instead.


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## Long Ranger

Bokonon said:


> FYI: per TeslaFi, a few Model 3s (starting with our VIN 85XXX canary in Nevada) have started updating to 50.6 from 50.5 and 50. We could see another push for folks on 50.x starting later today. Hopefully that would mean that the flickering-lights issue is fixed in 50.6.


I went from 50 to 50.6 at a SC this morning. I might have seen flickering lights once or twice on 50, but I wasn't actually sure if it was the car or not. It didn't happen enough for me to say if it's fixed on 50.6.


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## zosoisnotaword

Needsdecaf said:


> Wonder if this will bring back my "charging completed" notifications. Not that I really missed them all that much.


I guess it's still broken. I updated from 48.12 last night with overnight charging scheduled. I was about to get ready for work this morning and hadn't seen a charging completed notification, so I opened the app to see where it was, and it had already completed. This is the first time I recall not receiving a charge complete notification.


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## srjinatl

zosoisnotaword said:


> I guess it's still broken. I updated from 48.12 last night with overnight charging scheduled. I was about to get ready for work this morning and hadn't seen a charging completed notification, so I opened the app to see where it was, and it had already completed. This is the first time I recall not receiving a charge complete notification.


Interesting - I updated to 50.6 before my scheduled charging was to start for me last night - and I *did* get the charge complete notification this morning - I was previously on 48.12.1 also and was getting them on that level too. Will see if my notifications continue in the days ahead.


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## Needsdecaf

Brentt said:


> Autopilot seems to be better. The cars on the monitor aren't dancing and weaving as they go by. In the past, it looked like they were swerving into my lane, but they are much more realistic now.


Is it working any differently? Or is it just the more stable images on the display?


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## Tophoos

Just installed this update last night. Before this update, I've occasionally had light phantom braking that was forgivable. This morning, it braked hard 3 times in 2 minutes for absolutely no reason. It was still pressing the brake until I pushed the accelerator. This is the first time it braked so hard it frustrated me and of course the lady behind me.


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## Skione65

Great...so we’ve traded a flickering light fix for sequential multiple phantom AEB occurances....some not overideable until you actually press the accelerator? Perfect.

Ski


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## jasonm163

I went from 46.2 to 50.6 yesterday evening..... About time!  

Although it's easy to complain about not getting updates ASAP..... Remember, our cars actually get updates and continue to get better. Let's stay thankful even if we don't get it the exact same time as someone else


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## Jay Jay

The service center pushed out 50.6 for us last night, as a prep to our appointment on Friday I guess. No differences noticed so far (of course, all of the issues we've had are random, so it's hard to say with only 60 miles driven since the update).


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## choids

50.6 - NOAP took a curving carpool lane interchange bridge at nearly max speed, slowing down maybe from 77 to 74, way less granny-like but almost the opposite extreme- kind of scary but impressive


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## JeffC

Minor issue: it seems that some updates result in settings being lost. For example updating from 48 to 50.6 seems to have confused phone key, and I needed to re-pair under bluetooth and delete and add my phone as a key under keys. Did anyone else need to do that to make phone key work again?


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## Mike

Needsdecaf said:


> Haha, ok let's define quickly.
> 
> 10-20 seconds - this has happened maybe half a dozen times since I have owned the car.
> 
> Now is a minute or more. Sometimes never. Sometimes I have to wake the car up by opening the door in order to get it to wake up so I can pre-heat. Glad my garage is only a few feet from the kitchen.
> 
> Still on 48.12, just got an update notification.


When you mention waking up the car by opening the door and then being glad your garage is close.......not sure if you are going out to the garage and physically open a door.

If so, you can force unlock and lock with the Bluetooth connection from your app, this is the hack I use to force wake the car up.

If not, disregard this ramble.


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## Dr. Prunesquallor

Would really appreciate thoughts about the flickering lights. I got the push, but I’m not updating from 2018.48.12 until it looks like that is fixed.


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## JeffC

Mike said:


> If so, you can force unlock and lock with the Bluetooth connection from your app, this is the hack I use to force wake the car up.


I assume the lock and unlock from the app uses the phone and car's cellular connection, not Bluetooth, since it works from anywhere in the world. Bluetooth has very limited practical range, like a few meters.


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## MentalNomad

JeffC said:


> Minor issue: it seems that some updates result in settings being lost. For example updating from 48 to 50.6 seems to have confused phone key, and I needed to re-pair under bluetooth and delete and add my phone as a key under keys. Did anyone else need to do that to make phone key work again?


Not quite.

After I moved from 48 to 50, I (twice) had the car not recognize my phone key. I did not re-pair - the issue was resolved by rebooting my phone (Google Pixel 2 XL.) In both cases, the phone had not been rebooted for several days. (For the second instance, I very carefully tried a variety of things, like car reboots, and stopping/restarting the Tesla app. Car wouldn't recognize the phone until the phone was rebooted, but a moment after the reboot when I logged into my phone, the car spotted it.)

The fact that rebooting the phone fixed it suggests that it was an issue related to the phone or the Tesla app more so than the car. I suspect something like an authentication code generation algorithm falling out of sync with the car.


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## tivoboy

went from 48.xx to 50.6 today, hadn't had an update in many weeks. 1) can't get app to connect to car AT ALL. 2) worried about whatever this flicker light thing is.

Honestly, after all these years and pretty much solid uniformity of cars and nothing that can be loaded by the customer, why ON EARTH can there be so much variability in a SW release?


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## Needsdecaf

Mike said:


> When you mention waking up the car by opening the door and then being glad your garage is close.......not sure if you are going out to the garage and physically open a door.
> 
> If so, you can force unlock and lock with the Bluetooth connection from your app, this is the hack I use to force wake the car up.
> 
> If not, disregard this ramble.


I'm not understanding what you are saying.

My car will not wake up / respond to the app for extended periods. Sometimes it won't at all. When it doesn't at all, I have to go to the car and wake it up by opening the door. Then it responds to the app.

How could I force lock / unlock with the Bluetooth connection if my app just sits there and spins saying "waking up"? No controls are available.


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## Mike

JeffC said:


> I assume the lock and unlock from the app uses the phone and car's cellular connection, not Bluetooth, since it works from anywhere in the world. Bluetooth has very limited practical range, like a few meters.


Agreed.

It may use a cellular connection as well for lock/unlock and frunk open, but.......

I have NO data plan. My used smart phone is only on when I use the car as it's my key fob.

With no cellular data, I am able to unlock my car and my frunk, via the app and Bluetooth, in the middle of a shopping center parking lot.

As I stated, the only way I can wake the car up with the app (at home, with my car talking to wifi and my phone talking to wifi) after getting 50.5 is to press unlock and then lock........then my app connects to the car.


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## Needsdecaf

Dr. Prunesquallor said:


> Would really appreciate thoughts about the flickering lights. I got the push, but I'm not updating from 2018.48.12 until it looks like that is fixed.


Updated. No flickering lights. Never had them before either.


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## Mike

Needsdecaf said:


> I'm not understanding what you are saying.
> 
> My car will not wake up / respond to the app for extended periods. Sometimes it won't at all. When it doesn't at all, I have to go to the car and wake it up by opening the door. Then it responds to the app.
> 
> How could I force lock / unlock with the Bluetooth connection if my app just sits there and spins saying "waking up"? No controls are available.


My app spins as well, but the lock and frunk icons are "live" and I push the lock and then repush it and the car wakes up and the app stops spinning


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## JeffC

MentalNomad said:


> Not quite.
> 
> After I moved from 48 to 50, I (twice) had the car not recognize my phone key. I did not re-pair - the issue was resolved by rebooting my phone (Google Pixel 2 XL.) In both cases, the phone had not been rebooted for several days. (For the second instance, I very carefully tried a variety of things, like car reboots, and stopping/restarting the Tesla app. Car wouldn't recognize the phone until the phone was rebooted, but a moment after the reboot when I logged into my phone, the car spotted it.)
> 
> The fact that rebooting the phone fixed it suggests that it was an issue related to the phone or the Tesla app more so than the car. I suspect something like an authentication code generation algorithm falling out of sync with the car.


Thanks. In my case, I rebooted neither the phone nor car, but unpairing and deleting the key did work.


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## Needsdecaf

Mike said:


> My app spins as well, but the lock and frunk icons are "live" and I push the lock and then repush it and the car wakes up and the app stops spinning


Huh. I'll have to check mine tomorrow morning. I never saw that but perhaps wasn't looking. Thanks.


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## Emerald AP

Tophoos said:


> Just installed this update last night. Before this update, I've occasionally had light phantom braking that was forgivable. This morning, it braked hard 3 times in 2 minutes for absolutely no reason. It was still pressing the brake until I pushed the accelerator. This is the first time it braked so hard it frustrated me and of course the lady behind me.


I had the exact same thing happen this morning on 50.6. TACC (not EAP) set to 5 miles over the 65mph speed limit on a freeway and it phantom adjusts to 35. I pressed the speed limit rectangular icon on the display and it goes back to 70. Except it does the exact same thing 2 seconds later. A second speed limit icon press made the problem go away. Too bad i was on a call when this happened. Failed to log the bug from car then. Maybe I'll just report it retroactively on my drive home now...


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## Brentt

Needsdecaf said:


> Is it working any differently? Or is it just the more stable images on the display?


Yes, it's definitely working better. Not only are The car images much more fluid, but I've noticed braking in what I would call tense situations is much improved. Before, it would slam on the brakes way too early, then accelerate too slowly. Now, it may be better than me. There is still room for improvement, but overall I would say this is one of the better improvements in auto pilot I've seen. We've clocked over 25,000 miles, most of them on auto pilot, and I think we are at the very beginning of seeing situations where auto pilot will be better than humans.


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## Nikoman

I drove 400+ miles today after the update completed this morning. No issues to report. Previously, I had almost daily dark screen / reboots. No reboots after update which is a positive sign.

I do still have a persistent bluetooth issue with my OnePlus 6T phone. Half the calls inbound or outbound have static during ring and can't hear the other end. This started only after Tesla service tried to "fix"my wind noise issue by installing sound proofing around mic. Coincidentally the last software update occurred while it was in for that service appointment.


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## Joe in Durham

I have a MR 3. The estimated range after charging was 237 miles after the update
- before this it was 233 miles.


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## Jakey

I just updated last night. And the flickering headlights are still there. Very annoying.


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## Long Ranger

Mike said:


> My app spins as well, but the lock and frunk icons are "live" and I push the lock and then repush it and the car wakes up and the app stops spinning


Yep, I've been using this same trick over a number of releases when the car won't wake. I think the key is to be close enough to the car so that the app says "Phone Key Connected", indicating that it's using Bluetooth to unlock the car. If you're farther away and it says "Phone Key Disconnected" then your just trying to unlock via LTE and I don't think it helps any.

Sometimes even this unlock trick doesn't work for me, or at least not right away. In these cases, my car has completely lost LTE after sleeping. When this happens, I get in the car and the LTE symbol has a slash through it and I have no LTE for the first few minutes of driving. Service Center confirmed this morning that this is a known bug.


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## Bokonon

Joe in Durham said:


> I have a MR 3. The estimated range after charging was 237 miles after the update
> - before this it was 233 miles.


If you're updating from 48.12.1, it appears that 50.x adjusts the MR battery's rated range upward by 4 miles to reflect the updated EPA rating of 264 miles. So, 237 miles at 90% sounds about right.


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## JeffC

Joe in Durham said:


> I have a MR 3. The estimated range after charging was 237 miles after the update
> - before this it was 233 miles.


The range calculations in all EVs are highly dynamic. They depend on variables like air and battery temperature, driving style, recent charging and driving history, speed, even traffic, altitude changes, wind, etc., for a specific route. As such, I would not read too much into relatively small differences in range estimates.


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## Kizzy

JeffC said:


> The range calculations in all EVs are highly dynamic. They depend on variables like air and battery temperature, driving style, recent charging and driving history, speed, even traffic, altitude changes, wind, etc., for a specific route. As such, I would not read too much into relatively small differences in range estimates.


The battery indicator range estimate has been reported to be based on the energy read as available in the battery divided by a fixed consumption value per mile.

Actual range may vary from that indicated range, but the trip and energy app estimates do take into account what you mentioned above.


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## Frully

Bokonon said:


> I know it's early, but... Has anyone with 2018.50.6 noticed their headlights (or other lighting) flickering at any point?
> 
> This appears to be a bug introduced in 2018.50, and still present in 2018.50.5. I'm curious whether it was fixed in 2018.50.6.


I specifically just noticed my headlights flickering tonight for the first time, but I have had 50 for a while from a tech support call push.

Edit Jan 15: Still on 50.6; My light flicker has gotten pretty absurd; so flickery that it is noticeable on low beams, high beams (independently), and TURN SIGNALS...it flickers during the on period of the turn signal. Really hope 2019.x fixes flicker.


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## Mike

Emerald AP said:


> Maybe I'll just report it retroactively on my drive home now...


I do that when I regain lost LTE a few minutes after the loss event.........


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## Mike

Long Ranger said:


> I think the key is to be close enough to the car so that the app says "Phone Key Connected", indicating that it's using Bluetooth to unlock the car.


Yes, this is also my interpretation of "operating in accordance with manufacturers specifications" in this matter


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## ig0p0g0

bernie said:


> Getting the update from 48.12 to 50.6, M3 RWD in San Francisco. About 4 mins in to the update a rather loud and startling thunk came from the back and then twice the headlights came on and the car made some whirring sounds then solenoid clicks here and there.


 This is the new "charging completed" notification.


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## Needsdecaf

Needsdecaf said:


> Huh. I'll have to check mine tomorrow morning. I never saw that but perhaps wasn't looking. Thanks.


This morning the car woke up in about 20 seconds. So did not need to use this trick. I'll take it.

Did a 50 mile drive this morning, much on autopilot. Didn't notice a large difference to be honest. My biggest complaint is that in highly variable traffic, auto Lange change is way too timid. Wish it started changing within a half second of when you hit the indicator. Often times it waits too long and the gap is gone.

No flickering lights for me, but then again I'm coming from 48.12 and never had them.


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## Needsdecaf

Is there some kind of acclimatization / calibration period for EAP once a software update is done? Because on my 30 mile ride following my 50 mile one this morning it was pretty awful. Braking and accelerating were not smooth at all, braking for no reason, failing to keep up with speed after traffic ahead speeds up, very antsy with cars changing lanes towards it from the sides. Definitely a downgrade right now. I'm hoping that it needs to re-calibrate or something. 

I use EAP every day in traffic and I was not at all happy late this morning.


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## iChris93

Needsdecaf said:


> Is there some kind of acclimatization / calibration period for EAP once a software update is done? Because on my 30 mile ride following my 50 mile one this morning it was pretty awful. Braking and accelerating were not smooth at all, braking for no reason, failing to keep up with speed after traffic ahead speeds up, very antsy with cars changing lanes towards it from the sides. Definitely a downgrade right now. I'm hoping that it needs to re-calibrate or something.
> 
> I use EAP every day in traffic and I was not at all happy late this morning.


I think @BigBri had an experience where EAP was very bad after a car wash. Tesla told him the car was always calibrating and since its as used to being dirty, it had to recalibrate to now being clean.


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## BigBri

iChris93 said:


> I think @BigBri had an experience where EAP was very bad after a car wash. Tesla told him the car was always calibrating and since its as used to being dirty, it had to recalibrate to now being clean.


Yep! I washed the car, parked it for the night and did a FW update in the morning. Maybe it was both combined that made it terrible but it's been fine after putting 100km~ or so of driving on the car.


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## FRC

Installed 50.6 at SC yesterday. On the app today, I noticed that the nearby superchargers no longer show number occupied. Haven't seen this addressed, is this a temporary anomaly or have others seen this?


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## Long Ranger

FRC said:


> Installed 50.6 at SC yesterday. On the app today, I noticed that the nearby superchargers no longer show number occupied. Haven't seen this addressed, is this a temporary anomaly or have others seen this?


Supercharger availability on the app has been working fine for me since upgrading to 50.6 yesterday.


----------



## Tophoos

I tried grabbing footage from the built in dashcam last night to see what happened that might have caused 3x phantom braking within 2 mins I mentioned earlier. That footage was not on my flash drive. Looks like it was deleted already. I had a 20 minute drive in the morning and 25 minute drive in the evening. When I checked the flash drive it only contained the footage from my evening drive. Footage from morning and past days appear to already be deleted. Also, the file date modified was 24 hours off (shows it was recorded 24 hours later into the future). 

Anyways, I had backup footage (camera just before the b-pillar) and confirmed car was spending power accelerating and then suddenly full regen kicked in, no physical brakes pressed. Didn't brake too hard, shook my head *tisk tisk*. Then the 2nd time was 16 seconds later, full regen, physical brakes kicked in, I quickly pressed accelerator pedal to override whatever it was doing and started mouthing profanity. 3rd time was 90 seconds later with full regen and physical brakes again. Hit the accelerator to override again and got super pissed and turned AP off immediately. 

As I said, I don't have dash cam footage of what happened directly in front of me since the bar at the visor area blocks that from my back camera and the built in camera apparently deleted the morning footage. But my footage did show no shadows in front or overhead passes or signs going by. The screen showed plenty of space in front and nothing strange happening when the events occurred. 

I'll try to upload the video later this weekend or something if people are interested. I just want to try to remove the audio, blur out my rage, and trim off the 90 seconds before the 3rd occurance.


----------



## Long Ranger

Tophoos said:


> Then the 2nd time was 16 seconds later, full regen, physical brakes kicked in


 Just curious, how can you tell if physical brakes are applied? Max regen can cause brake lights to come on, is there some other visual indication that I've missed?


----------



## iChris93

Tophoos said:


> I tried grabbing footage from the built in dashcam last night to see what happened that might have caused 3x phantom braking within 2 mins I mentioned earlier. That footage was not on my flash drive. Looks like it was deleted already. I had a 20 minute drive in the morning and 25 minute drive in the evening. When I checked the flash drive it only contained the footage from my evening drive. Footage from morning and past days appear to already be deleted. Also, the file date modified was 24 hours off (shows it was recorded 24 hours later into the future).


It only saves footage for the past hour, not an hour of past footage. That is, if it's 4:43 pm, nothing before 3:43 pm will be there unless you hit save.


----------



## DBM3DM

Hey everyone, newbie member here. Just received my LRM3DM two weeks ago. My software is only at 2018.46.5 and was curious how long it takes for Tesla to send me update notification once I connect to WiFi?

Thanks!


----------



## Tophoos

Long Ranger said:


> Just curious, how can you tell if physical brakes are applied? Max regen can cause brake lights to come on, is there some other visual indication that I've missed?


If you're on AP, leave your foot gently on the brake, you will notice it leaving your foot when it needs more than what regen can provide. It does not move if it only needs the regen.

I installed aluminum pedals, so on the camera, I can see it being pressed while my foot generally hovers on the accelerator.


----------



## Tophoos

iChris93 said:


> It only saves footage for the past hour, not an hour of past footage. That is, if it's 4:43 pm, nothing before 3:43 pm will be there unless you hit save.


I could have sworn I had saved files spanning 2 days the last time I checked. Did they change that at some point. Anyways, good to know I guess.


----------



## FRC

Tophoos said:


> I could have sworn I had saved files spanning 2 days the last time I checked. Did they change that at some point. Anyways, good to know I guess.


Always been only one hour.


----------



## Zek

Bokonon said:


> I know it's early, but... Has anyone with 2018.50.6 noticed their headlights (or other lighting) flickering at any point?
> 
> This appears to be a bug introduced in 2018.50, and still present in 2018.50.5. I'm curious whether it was fixed in 2018.50.6.


Yes - my lights flickered on a very cold day.


----------



## Reliev

@DBM3DM once you have maps updated it shouldn't take too long every 3-4 weeks its like Christmas and no it never gets old.


----------



## DBM3DM

@relidtm, So if I haven't received any updates before, the first time will take longer because it needs to update maps?

Thanks!


----------



## Reliev

yeah, the map update is huge 4-5gb (i used to know the size I can't remember now) if you have google wifi a lot of us were tracking it.


----------



## GDN

DBM3DM said:


> Hey everyone, newbie member here. Just received my LRM3DM two weeks ago. My software is only at 2018.46.5 and was curious how long it takes for Tesla to send me update notification once I connect to WiFi?
> 
> Thanks!


Welcome to the Model 3 and to the M3OC forum. SW roll outs are more like an art to Tesla than a science, because you just never know for sure when you'll get one. I will note that I don't recall a 46.5 version of SW. Can you double check that version? Is it maybe 46.2? 46.2 was released at the end of November.

Either way a release in the 46 range should have already had the newer maps. Maps do ongoing updates as well, but there was a release of maps @relidtm mentioned that was required a few months back before the next release of SW would download. I don't think you're facing that issue if you already have 46.X. You do want to make sure you are connected to Wifi, that will accelerate SW, as it is prioritized there and will eventually come via LTE after a certain amount of time.

Do a quick check and confirm the SW version, you can find it on the bottom of the main screen of the app, also maybe when your car was built, you can find the month/year on a sticker inside the drivers side door frame.


----------



## Reliev

GDN said:


> Welcome to the Model 3 and to the M3OC forum. SW roll outs are more like an art to Tesla than a science, because you just never know for sure when you'll get one. I will note that I don't recall a 46.5 version of SW. Can you double check that version? Is it maybe 46.2? 46.2 was released at the end of November.
> 
> Either way a release in the 46 range should have already had the newer maps. Maps do ongoing updates as well, but there was a release of maps @relidtm mentioned that was required a few months back before the next release of SW would download. I don't think you're facing that issue if you already have 46.X. You do want to make sure you are connected to Wifi, that will accelerate SW, as it is prioritized there and will eventually come via LTE after a certain amount of time.
> 
> Do a quick check and confirm the SW version, you can find it on the bottom of the main screen of the app, also maybe when your car was built, you can find the month/year on a sticker inside the drivers side door frame.


didnt even think about it yeah if its anything v9 you probably have the newer maps good point


----------



## Dr. Prunesquallor

DBM3DM said:


> @relidtm, So if I haven't received any updates before, the first time will take longer because it needs to update maps?
> 
> Thanks!


The maps do upgrade on the fly, presumably over cellular. When I got my Mod3 I had to immediately update to 2018.48.12. When I went out for the first long drive, the maps had lots of blanks, but filled in pretty rapidly.


----------



## GDN

Dr. Prunesquallor said:


> The maps do upgrade on the fly, presumably over cellular. When I got my Mod3 I had to immediately update to 2018.48.12. When I went out for the first long drive, the maps had lots of blanks, but filled in pretty rapidly.


This fill in behavior isn't because the maps weren't downloaded. I don't have all of the details, but your maps all download and are stored locally. Every few months or some determined release by Tesla you will get a new version and they download over Wifi. They don't let these download over LTE due to their size.

However, if you have a bad or slow LTE connection they will still load slowly on to the screen while driving as you described.


----------



## JeffC

Kizzy said:


> The battery indicator range estimate has been reported to be based on the energy read as available in the battery divided by a fixed consumption value per mile.
> 
> Actual range may vary from that indicated range, but the trip and energy app estimates do take into account what you mentioned above.


Thanks, and that could explain why the range calculation in the battery indicator at the top of the left panel can differ from the range estimate on the Energy app when a trip route is active in navigation. For a specific route, altitude, traffic, wind, etc., may be taken into account, but for the battery range indication, perhaps not. If so, the range indicated in the Energy app (and Navigation panel) may be more accurate.


----------



## Bernard

Shortest time I spent on any FW since I got the car in early June: I got 50.6 today after getting 50.5 just one week ago.
Looks like Tesla is working to move everyone from 50.5 to 50.6, all while most cars are still on 48.12.1, so any clue yet as to why?


----------



## iChris93

Bernard said:


> Shortest time I spent on any FW since I got the car in early June: I got 50.6 today after getting 50.5 just one week ago.
> Looks like Tesla is working to move everyone from 50.5 to 50.6, all while most cars are still on 48.12.1, so any clue yet as to why?


Well, if there is a major bug in one of the previous releases it makes sense to try to get everyone on a newer version that squashes that bug!


----------



## Frully

Tophoos said:


> I could have sworn I had saved files spanning 2 days the last time I checked. Did they change that at some point. Anyways, good to know I guess.


iirc, it saves plenty of files but every car-wake-up sequence where it init's the camera it deletes anything older than an hour at that time.


----------



## Jim H

Bernard said:


> Shortest time I spent on any FW since I got the car in early June: I got 50.6 today after getting 50.5 just one week ago.
> Looks like Tesla is working to move everyone from 50.5 to 50.6, all while most cars are still on 48.12.1, so any clue yet as to why?


Just received 50.6 also. I been having interrupted home charging ever since 48.12, and was not resolved with 50. Charged at home after 50.6 and had no interruption. Was having IPhone bluetooth unlocking issues also, which seems better with 50.6.
Had a SC appointment to address these issues, but looks like I'm good to go for now.


----------



## Bernard

iChris93 said:


> Well, if there is a major bug in one of the previous releases it makes sense to try to get everyone on a newer version that squashes that bug!


Completely agree, but what is that major bug? I had not noticed anything amiss on 50.5 in the short time I had it.


----------



## iChris93

Bernard said:


> Completely agree, but what is that major bug? I had not noticed anything amiss on 50.5 in the short time I had it.


I would say the headlights flickering but I think someone here posted saying they still had it. I was on 50 with flickering but just got updated to 50.6 within the past hour.


----------



## JustTheTip

App seems to wake up the car much much faster now. Very happy about that.

***EDIT***

Eh. Spoke too soon. Still taking 20+ seconds. Bummer.


----------



## Kizzy

FRC said:


> Installed 50.6 at SC yesterday. On the app today, I noticed that the nearby superchargers no longer show number occupied. Haven't seen this addressed, is this a temporary anomaly or have others seen this?


I just checked my app. 3 out of the 4 Supercharging stations have numbers reported.












Tophoos said:


> I tried grabbing footage from the built in dashcam last night to see what happened that might have caused 3x phantom braking within 2 mins I mentioned earlier. That footage was not on my flash drive. Looks like it was deleted already. I had a 20 minute drive in the morning and 25 minute drive in the evening. When I checked the flash drive it only contained the footage from my evening drive. Footage from morning and past days appear to already be deleted. Also, the file date modified was 24 hours off (shows it was recorded 24 hours later into the future).
> 
> Anyways, I had backup footage (camera just before the b-pillar) and confirmed car was spending power accelerating and then suddenly full regen kicked in, no physical brakes pressed. Didn't brake too hard, shook my head *tisk tisk*. Then the 2nd time was 16 seconds later, full regen, physical brakes kicked in, I quickly pressed accelerator pedal to override whatever it was doing and started mouthing profanity. 3rd time was 90 seconds later with full regen and physical brakes again. Hit the accelerator to override again and got super pissed and turned AP off immediately.
> 
> As I said, I don't have dash cam footage of what happened directly in front of me since the bar at the visor area blocks that from my back camera and the built in camera apparently deleted the morning footage. But my footage did show no shadows in front or overhead passes or signs going by. The screen showed plenty of space in front and nothing strange happening when the events occurred.
> 
> I'll try to upload the video later this weekend or something if people are interested. I just want to try to remove the audio, blur out my rage, and trim off the 90 seconds before the 3rd occurance.


Did you notice any cars flanking you up front? Under 48.12.1, I've noticed Autopilot braking when cars are just ahead of it on far right lanes that (I believe) it thinks might be trying to merge-even if those cars are well past the point of return on an exit ramp.


----------



## JeffC

Tophoos said:


> I tried grabbing footage from the built in dashcam last night to see what happened that might have caused 3x phantom braking within 2 mins I mentioned earlier. That footage was not on my flash drive. Looks like it was deleted already. I had a 20 minute drive in the morning and 25 minute drive in the evening. When I checked the flash drive it only contained the footage from my evening drive. Footage from morning and past days appear to already be deleted. Also, the file date modified was 24 hours off (shows it was recorded 24 hours later into the future).
> 
> Anyways, I had backup footage (camera just before the b-pillar) and confirmed car was spending power accelerating and then suddenly full regen kicked in, no physical brakes pressed. Didn't brake too hard, shook my head *tisk tisk*. Then the 2nd time was 16 seconds later, full regen, physical brakes kicked in, I quickly pressed accelerator pedal to override whatever it was doing and started mouthing profanity. 3rd time was 90 seconds later with full regen and physical brakes again. Hit the accelerator to override again and got super pissed and turned AP off immediately.
> 
> As I said, I don't have dash cam footage of what happened directly in front of me since the bar at the visor area blocks that from my back camera and the built in camera apparently deleted the morning footage. But my footage did show no shadows in front or overhead passes or signs going by. The screen showed plenty of space in front and nothing strange happening when the events occurred.
> 
> I'll try to upload the video later this weekend or something if people are interested. I just want to try to remove the audio, blur out my rage, and trim off the 90 seconds before the 3rd occurance.


Really basic:

1. Make sure glass in front of all cameras is clean.
2. Make sure bumper in front of ultrasonic sensors is clear of all debris. (Those are the 15mm circles in the front and rear bumpers.)
3. Make sure bumper in front of the radar is clear of all debris. (IIRC the radar is behind the upper part of the bumper to the right of center looking from the front.)

If random braking persists a lot, maybe ask Tesla to check on it.

I've also had phantom braking, mostly around cars that looked like they could have been merging, but it's very rare.


----------



## yyzunderdog

Needsdecaf said:


> Haha, ok let's define quickly.
> 
> 10-20 seconds - this has happened maybe half a dozen times since I have owned the car.
> 
> Now is a minute or more. Sometimes never. Sometimes I have to wake the car up by opening the door in order to get it to wake up so I can pre-heat. Glad my garage is only a few feet from the kitchen.
> 
> Still on 48.12, just got an update notification.


I am pretty much always in the "never comes back" when waking the car from the app. It's never been reliable. The only way is for me to be in close proximity to the car and toggle it open and closed. Then the car comes online.

Same behaviour in my wifi (which is solid) or LTE.


----------



## iChris93

iChris93 said:


> I would say the headlights flickering but I think someone here posted saying they still had it. I was on 50 with flickering but just got updated to 50.6 within the past hour.


Definitely noticed flickering this morning when loading my trunk. And also when auto bights turned on it was really bad.


----------



## Bernard

yyzunderdog said:


> I am pretty much always in the "never comes back" when waking the car from the app. It's never been reliable. The only way is for me to be in close proximity to the car and toggle it open and closed. Then the car comes online.
> 
> Same behaviour in my wifi (which is solid) or LTE.


Curious. I've timed it over the last 7mos and it's almost always in the 15-30s range. Faster basically never happens -- unless I try it again less than 30s after closing the app ;-) Slower is really rare, even over LTE from miles away -- in fact, it does not matter if I am on wifi or LTE and the same for the car. Bluetooth behavior improved considerably during that period, but LTE/wifi app wake-up time has been really steady for me all along.


----------



## Bernard

iChris93 said:


> Definitely noticed flickering this morning when loading my trunk. And also when auto bights turned on it was really bad.


I rarely drive at night (daylight here even on winter solstice is almost 11h), so I had not noticed. I'll look for it next time I am out after 7pm.


----------



## iChris93

Bernard said:


> I rarely drive at night (daylight here even on winter solstice is almost 11h), so I had not noticed. I'll look for it next time I am out after 7pm.


It may also be cold weather related. Days are short here in the winter, but getting longer now!


----------



## nonStopSwagger

Anybody get the flickering headlights, regardless of firmware version, when the temperature is above freezing? My suspicion is it might have nothing to do with software.


----------



## Rye3

I received 50.6 last night and my initial observations are:
No flickering lights.
More vehicles show up on the display and they seem to better depict what direction they are turning. 

That was a short drive in awful (snowy) conditions.


----------



## Retronym

Long Ranger said:


> Just curious, how can you tell if physical brakes are applied? Max regen can cause brake lights to come on, is there some other visual indication that I've missed?


I've never seen someone mention this, but you can tell if the brake lights are on by looking at your car on the left side of the screen. The little model of your car actually has tail lights that light up with the physical lights.


----------



## Needsdecaf

nonStopSwagger said:


> Anybody get the flickering headlights, regardless of firmware version, when the temperature is above freezing? My suspicion is it might have nothing to do with software.


Well, I've been on 48.12 and 50.6 in below freezing weather and have never seen the lights flickering.


----------



## FRC

Retronym said:


> I've never seen someone mention this, but you can tell if the brake lights are on by looking at your car on the left side of the screen. The little model of your car actually has tail lights that light up with the physical lights.


Those lights come on for both physical brakes and for heavy regen.


----------



## CaptainPicard

Just updated last night from 2018.50.5 to 2018.50.6 and I still have flickering lights first thing in the morning - temperature was -3/-4 degrees Celcius / 27 degrees Fahrenheit.
They seem to flicker for the first 1-5 minutes of driving.


----------



## Vidya

I think flickring is related to the outside temp. not the software thing. I didnt tested on 50.6 yet, but 50.5 is where I first observed the flickering thing. let see


----------



## Tesla blue Y

Joe in Durham said:


> I have a MR 3. The estimated range after charging was 237 miles after the update
> - before this it was 233 miles.


welcome


----------



## Needsdecaf

So far with this software update, I'm really not liking what it's done to my autopilot


Increased reluctance to change lanes
More instances of aborted lane changes
First instance of "I give up" or "Jesus take the wheel" red wheel alert.
Much less smooth acceleration and braking
Still have cars around me shown as "flickering" or "glitching" as my son calls it. 
I'm really hoping that this goes away with more driving. Because it's seriously made my EAP experience much worse.


----------



## tivoboy

Could the flickering be that Tesla is tying to enable some form of adaptive headlights?


----------



## nonStopSwagger

tivoboy said:


> Could the flickering be that Tesla is tying to enable some form of adaptive headlights?


I doubt it. Mine flicker only if its cold, and only for the first 5 minutes of them being turned on. Even stationary in my garage before pulling out, they flicker sometimes.

I'm leaning towards most likely its a bad batch of lights that have issues in the cold. Similar to the bad batch of turn signal control units many of us got. If you are in a place that never experiences cold, you may never see the issue even if your lights are defective.


----------



## GDN

Flikering headlights were never reported before the last couple of SW releases, sure it's related right? It was way cold for many people before they started as well. I'm betting it's SW.


----------



## nonStopSwagger

GDN said:


> Flikering headlights were never reported before the last couple of SW releases, sure it's related right? It was way cold for many people before they started as well. I'm betting it's SW.


I think its only a small batch of cars with the "cold weather flicker" issue, with the newer headlights that came out after June 2018. My guess is older cars don't have the issue at all. Tesla may already know about it, and it may have been corrected. Similar to what happened to the turn signal control box issue. Just a small batch of a few thousand cars had the problem, that were built around August 2018.

I hope I'm wrong and it can be fixed with SW. I've had the ranger out twice already for my August built car, I don't want them coming out again for this.


----------



## slasher016

nonStopSwagger said:


> I think its only a small batch of cars with the "cold weather flicker" issue, with the newer headlights that came out after June 2018. My guess is older cars don't have the issue at all. Tesla may already know about it, and it may have been corrected. Similar to what happened to the turn signal control box issue. Just a small batch of a few thousand cars had the problem, that were built around August 2018.
> 
> I hope I'm wrong and it can be fixed with SW. I've had the ranger out twice already for my August built car, I don't want them coming out again for this.


You'd be wrong on your first assumption. Mine does it and I took delivery in May of 2018, production in April.


----------



## LucyferSam

nonStopSwagger said:


> I think its only a small batch of cars with the "cold weather flicker" issue, with the newer headlights that came out after June 2018. My guess is older cars don't have the issue at all. Tesla may already know about it, and it may have been corrected. Similar to what happened to the turn signal control box issue. Just a small batch of a few thousand cars had the problem, that were built around August 2018.
> 
> I hope I'm wrong and it can be fixed with SW. I've had the ranger out twice already for my August built car, I don't want them coming out again for this.


Nope, took delivery just over a year ago on Jan 20, never had flickering last winter or before the 50 update. Have had it on 50, just updated to 50.6, but haven't driven at night yet to see if there is a change.


----------



## nonStopSwagger

Both you guys are giving me hope . My car has had a bunch of non software related issues in the less than 3k miles I've put on it, was leaning towards putting headlights on the list.

I got 50.6 last night, I'll be watching the headlights over the next few days.


----------



## Vin

I have the light flickering issue also (have 50.6 but it started in previous update). Car was delivered July 1 2018.

I called SC today and they said what should fix it is to do a few things...

1. Do the power reset (2 wheels and brake for 10 seconds) before doing the next step (this wheel restart alone didn't work because I tried this already on the last flickering update, but he said that the next step is what is most important and should work:
After the wheel button restart...

2. Power off vehicle entirely. (go to menu Security/Power Off)
I have never done this yet since I've had the car and they said since I've had lots of updates it's best to do that to refresh like once a year ( wheel restart like once a quarter) but here's an interesting detail- you have to sit in the car for 2-2 1/2 minutes without moving much because that could wake up the car.

He said that powering off the car actually stops the battery thermal managing system, which is why Tesla made the powering off reliant upon you sitting in the car. If you "move/leave" it wakes up again so the battery management system is back on again.
To power on the car again just push the brake.
I followed the steps about 5 hours ago, and went back into work.

Before posting this i went out into my work parking lot, hit brake to wake up car (watched the headlights in a reflection of a dark car parked in front of me, put it into reverse, moved a little, went forward again and for a short distance in parking lot)

It worked! (so far)! In the past the flickering mostly happened right in the beginning when putting into drive or starting to move in the morning or after work when starting to leave.
I'll check back if I notice any flicker but so far so good. I hope that helps someone.
Devon PA Tesla SC has been great so far since owning the car.


----------



## Veedio

yyzunderdog said:


> I am pretty much always in the "never comes back" when waking the car from the app. It's never been reliable. The only way is for me to be in close proximity to the car and toggle it open and closed. Then the car comes online.
> 
> Same behaviour in my wifi (which is solid) or LTE.


Same here. Unless it's within Bluetooth range my car will never wake up with the app and eventually times out with a Vehicle Connection error.


----------



## tencate

GDN said:


> Flikering headlights were never reported before the last couple of SW releases, sure it's related right? It was way cold for many people before they started as well. I'm betting it's SW.


Didn't have flickering last winter, didn't have flickering this winter until only recently. I'm betting it's software related too.


----------



## Francois Gaucher

nonStopSwagger said:


> I think its only a small batch of cars with the "cold weather flicker" issue, with the newer headlights that came out after June 2018. My guess is older cars don't have the issue at all. Tesla may already know about it, and it may have been corrected. Similar to what happened to the turn signal control box issue. Just a small batch of a few thousand cars had the problem, that were built around August 2018.
> 
> I hope I'm wrong and it can be fixed with SW. I've had the ranger out twice already for my August built car, I don't want them coming out again for this.


I am in a very cold weather region, Montreal, and have my m3 since last July, a vin in 28xxx, and the head lights flickering issue appears only since 2018.50.

Got 50.6 yesterday, and didn't notice it yet


----------



## Bernard

Retronym said:


> I've never seen someone mention this, but you can tell if the brake lights are on by looking at your car on the left side of the screen. The little model of your car actually has tail lights that light up with the physical lights.


Yes, the taillights on the screen will light up (although for a red version like mine, it's nearly impossible to see), but I suspect that what you see is just a signal to you that the computer has decided to turn on the brake lights -- I doubt that it's actually measured at each taillight connection to verify that the light is actually functioning. That is, I think you could have a defective taillight and the display would still show the brake light coming on.
It's a good way (on a non-red car ;-) to get a sense of when your regen is strong enough to cause the brake lights to come on.


----------



## Adam Rucker

This new update improve the garage door function


----------



## Rye3

Flickering headlights are definitely still present on 50.6


----------



## GDN

Adam Rucker said:


> This new update improve the garage door function


Can you explain further? I didn't know there was an issue, or how it was improved upon.


----------



## Bernard

Needsdecaf said:


> So far with this software update, I'm really not liking what it's done to my autopilot
> 
> 
> Increased reluctance to change lanes
> More instances of aborted lane changes
> First instance of "I give up" or "Jesus take the wheel" red wheel alert.
> Much less smooth acceleration and braking
> Still have cars around me shown as "flickering" or "glitching" as my son calls it.
> I'm really hoping that this goes away with more driving. Because it's seriously made my EAP experience much worse.


It's curious that the cars shown on the display continue to "glitch" (great choice of verb from your son!). They are less manic than they were on the first firmware that enabled the feature, but they continue to morph into all sorts of creations.
2 days ago a large RAM 3500 pickup in the next lane at a traffic light was creeping forward, but still behind me; as it crept forward, it morphed from a car to a pickup truck, then to two pickup trucks behind each other, then finally to a delivery truck. (I must say that I sympathized with the car: these pickups are so huge they might as well be semi-tractors ;-) Just yesterday on the main road here, I was following a motorcycle and the motorcycle kept dividing into two motorcycles and merging back into one with each minor fluctuation in the distance separating us.
This behavior would lead me to conclude that the program is not (yet?) integrating its experience over the last few minutes of driving, but constantly rediscovering its environment. Some of that is clearly necessary, but information acquired about other cars, for instance, should track from scan to scan and so remain consistent. (Not hard to do: it's regularly done in any target acquisition system, for instance.) Perhaps a lot of these improvements are simply being deferred until HW 3.0 is in place?


----------



## Tophoos

Bernard said:


> Yes, the taillights on the screen will light up (although for a red version like mine, it's nearly impossible to see), but I suspect that what you see is just a signal to you that the computer has decided to turn on the brake lights -- I doubt that it's actually measured at each taillight connection to verify that the light is actually functioning. That is, I think you could have a defective taillight and the display would still show the brake light coming on.
> It's a good way (on a non-red car ;-) to get a sense of when your regen is strong enough to cause the brake lights to come on.


There are suppose to be sensors that detect defective lights. Kim from like Tesla channel just demonstrated it with a pic of a Model S with broken headlights, the left headlight was not lit on the car avatar. I'm assuming you'll see it represented on your avatar somehow with a red exclamation warning on top of the screen.


----------



## Lgkahn

I rebooted as I do after every fw update. Seems to be a bug in this one. I plugged in , in the afternoon after a drive like normal and it started charging immediately instead or the normal will charge at 5:00 am message. Scheduled time was still there
I stopped the charge and then the msg popped up.


----------



## Bernard

Tophoos said:


> There are suppose to be sensors that detect defective lights. Kim from like Tesla channel just demonstrated it with a pic of a Model S with broken headlights, the left headlight was not lit on the car avatar. I'm assuming you'll see it represented on your avatar somehow with a red exclamation warning on top of the screen.


That would be good. Sensors for headlights have been common for many years, but sensors for taillights seem much less common. Does anyone know for sure about Model 3? (I won't damage mine just to test the case ;-)


----------



## Adam Rucker

GDN said:


> Can you explain further? I didn't know there was an issue, or how it was improved upon.


Open up the garage door even when I'm in reverse before it never did that and when I pull out of the driveway it closes it automatically without me having to push the button before it would never do that


----------



## Lgkahn

That seems dangerous. I only use the function to open on return what if it starts closing b⁴ you clear the garage.


----------



## Reliev

Lgkahn said:


> That seems dangerous. I only use the function to open on return what if it starts closing b⁴ you clear the garage.


Won't the mobile eye prevent that?


----------



## Adam Rucker

Yes you're totally clear of the garage door when it starts to go down it's not a timing issue where if you open it and pull out starts a clock


----------



## JeffC

Lgkahn said:


> That seems dangerous. I only use the function to open on return what if it starts closing b⁴ you clear the garage.


The car should not close the door until it has moved a certain distance from the door, and most garage doors have a photocell that prevents the door from closing if there's anything blocking the door from closing.


----------



## Mike

Vin said:


> I have the light flickering issue also (have 50.6 but it started in previous update). Car was delivered July 1 2018.
> 
> I called SC today and they said what should fix it is to do a few things...
> 
> 1. Do the power reset (2 wheels and brake for 10 seconds) before doing the next step (this wheel restart alone didn't work because I tried this already on the last flickering update, but he said that the next step is what is most important and should work:
> After the wheel button restart...
> 
> 2. Power off vehicle entirely. (go to menu Security/Power Off)
> I have never done this yet since I've had the car and they said since I've had lots of updates it's best to do that to refresh like once a year ( wheel restart like once a quarter) but here's an interesting detail- you have to sit in the car for 2-2 1/2 minutes without moving much because that could wake up the car.
> 
> He said that powering off the car actually stops the battery thermal managing system, which is why Tesla made the powering off reliant upon you sitting in the car. If you "move/leave" it wakes up again so the battery management system is back on again.
> To power on the car again just push the brake.
> I followed the steps about 5 hours ago, and went back into work.
> 
> Before posting this i went out into my work parking lot, hit brake to wake up car (watched the headlights in a reflection of a dark car parked in front of me, put it into reverse, moved a little, went forward again and for a short distance in parking lot)
> 
> It worked! (so far)! In the past the flickering mostly happened right in the beginning when putting into drive or starting to move in the morning or after work when starting to leave.
> I'll check back if I notice any flicker but so far so good. I hope that helps someone.
> Devon PA Tesla SC has been great so far since owning the car.


A trick I learned from reddit when doing the shutdown from the UI and staying still for a few minutes: make sure your HVAC is on (for the fan noise). You will know you have stayed still long enough when that fan stops.


----------



## Mike

JeffC said:


> The car should not close until the car is a certain distance from the door, and most garage doors have a photocell that prevents the door from closing if there's anything near the door.


When I first brought the car home, I actually moved the photocell (safety reverse) sensors up (about 15ish inches) from the floor so the sensor system beam is immediately blocked by the extreme rear edge of the rear bumper.


----------



## Lgkahn

I cannot raise it up. I'd be more worried about killing a dog than the car. Maybe two beams in parallel?


----------



## Tesla blue Y

Lgkahn said:


> That seems dangerous. I only use the function to open on return what if it starts closing b⁴ you clear the garage.


mine closes the garage door 20 ft down the drive way. Never close in anyway. I have been using it through out my ownership of the car.


----------



## tencate

nonStopSwagger said:


> I think its only a small batch of cars with the "cold weather flicker" issue, with the newer headlights that came out after June 2018.


and mine does it too and it was made late 2017...


----------



## Francois Gaucher

Francois Gaucher said:


> I am in a very cold weather region, Montreal, and have my m3 since last July, a vin in 28xxx, and the head lights flickering issue appears only since 2018.50.
> 
> Got 50.6 yesterday, and didn't notice it yet


Did another test tonight and my headlights still flickering. The AP seems also more hesitate. May be it has to recalibrate itself.


----------



## JeffC

Mike said:


> When I first brought the car home, I actually moved the photocell (safety reverse) sensors up (about 15ish inches) from the floor so the sensor system beam is immediately blocked by the extreme rear edge of the rear bumper.


For information, home inspectors and manufacturers seem to recommend the sensor be no higher than about 6 inches above the garage floor. Don't know if that's for detecting pets, infants, etc., but there probably is some safety reason for it. Here's one reference:

https://www.nachi.org/forum/f16/garage-door-sensor-17135/


----------



## SimonMatthews

Retronym said:


> I've never seen someone mention this, but you can tell if the brake lights are on by looking at your car on the left side of the screen. The little model of your car actually has tail lights that light up with the physical lights.


That's nice, but they are almost possible to see with my aged eyes and against a red car. I can see them only if I put my reading glasses on (not a good idea while driving). Tesla needs to make the tail light image much larger.


----------



## fmcotton

Tesla blue 3 said:


> mine closes the garage door 20 ft down the drive way. Never close in anyway. I have been using it through out my ownership of the car.


I thought it is somewhat based on how far you have it set to open as well.

Does your car start to open the garage door when you are approaching and about 20 feet away. If so, try adjusting the distance setting closer if you want it to open and close when you are closer to the door.


----------



## Mike

JeffC said:


> For information, home inspectors and manufacturers seem to recommend the sensor be no higher than about 6 inches above the garage floor. Don't know if that's for detecting pets, infants, etc., but there probably is some safety reason for it. Here's one reference:
> 
> https://www.nachi.org/forum/f16/garage-door-sensor-17135/


Agreed.

I have three garage doors and I found when I was doing work on my classics (long since sold to finance my TM3) on my hoist in the center bay, I often ran into a situation (yes, not the average homeowners operating envelope) where the bumper guards could interfere with the operation of the garage door without ever being caught by the door safety system.

I use the same setup now for the bay that my Tesla sits in, strictly to let the garage door know there is a car in the opening while I relinquish garage door operations to the car's software.

@Lgkahn mentioned having two safety systems for the door and that would be the best solution from all points of view.

We have no pets or children in our situation to factor in, so I accept the risk that the door's self reversing function may be less sensitive than the beam.


----------



## Tesla blue Y

fmcotton said:


> I thought it is somewhat based on how far you have it set to open as well.
> 
> Does your car start to open the garage door when you are approaching and about 20 feet away. If so, try adjusting the distance setting closer if you want it to open and close when you are closer to the door.


thanks for the info but I'm happy with how it acts


----------



## Swoop

Finally got 50.6 two days ago and have lost TeslaCam completely. Reformatted the USB drive but nothing. Soft reset and shutdown the M3D but no luck. Anyone else lose TeslaCam?


----------



## Bokonon

Swoop said:


> Finally got 50.6 two days ago and have lost TeslaCam completely. Reformatted the USB drive but nothing. Soft reset and shutdown the M3D but no luck. Anyone else lose TeslaCam?


Mine still works... Do you see any dashcam icon at all (including an X)? If not, forgive me for asking this, but... does the Teslacam folder exist on the USB drive?


----------



## Swoop

Bokonon said:


> Mine still works... Do you see any dashcam icon at all (including an X)? If not, forgive me for asking this, but... does the Teslacam folder exist on the USB drive?


Good to know...that's okay. Thanks for asking...

...nothing...no icon...the subfolder "teslacam" is still there when I check the thumb drive and even deleted and reformatted the disk to see if it was a corruption issue. I'll keep trouble shooting...thank you. Tried both forward USB ports too. -JD


----------



## GDN

Swoop said:


> Finally got 50.6 two days ago and have lost TeslaCam completely. Reformatted the USB drive but nothing. Soft reset and shutdown the M3D but no luck. Anyone else lose TeslaCam?


Take your USB drive in to a PC and see if it is still usable. I had a cheap one that burned up. There has been another report of that. I don't know if it was the fault of the USB stick or the car, but I've had a different one in for several months since then with no issues.


----------



## Lgkahn

Did u remember to format fat or fat32


----------



## PaulT

**Problems with this update** 

The set speed for adaptive cruise control randomly drops about 15-20 mph when you disable autopilot steering by moving steering wheel. This is very annoying with this update. Also, Tesla still has not fixed the sporadic automatic change in cruise control speed based on offset.


----------



## iChris93

PaulT said:


> **Problems with this update**
> 
> The set speed for adaptive cruise control randomly drops about 15-20 mph when you disable autopilot steering by moving steering wheel. This is very annoying with this update. Also, Tesla still has not fixed the sporadic automatic change in cruise control speed based on offset.


This has been in the last several versions and I do not see Tesla changing it back. The speed gets set at the speed you're going when you steer out of auto steer.


----------



## gary in NY

Still no "Charging Completed" message when home charging. I've not had one since v46 or so a few months ago (all notices are turned on in the app). It's not the end of the world, but it was a good reminder that the car was charged and ready to go.


----------



## Needsdecaf

SimonMatthews said:


> That's nice, but they are almost possible to see with my aged eyes and against a red car. I can see them only if I put my reading glasses on (not a good idea while driving). Tesla needs to make the tail light image much larger.


Agreed, and I don't even wear reading glasses! The Model S / X is much easier to read.


----------



## Robertg2

50.6 and I have had no issues yet.


----------



## ytr3wq

50.6 just installed this morning (from 50.5). I hope if fixes an issue I've had where the "auto" headlights occasionally come on in bright daylight. Usually I can get them to stop by going from auto, to off, and back to auto. At least once that didn't work and they stayed on. 

I has been happening for many months, over many software versions.

Anyone know how the M3 senses the auto headlight? I don't think it is a dirty sensor, because the car is usually dirty, and it only happens a couple times a week.


----------



## JeffC

GDN said:


> Take your USB drive in to a PC and see if it is still usable. I had a cheap one that burned up. There has been another report of that. I don't know if it was the fault of the USB stick or the car, but I've had a different one in for several months since then with no issues.


Yes, one problem with USB flash drives is overheating. If they get hot enough, the electronics in them will stop working, so overheating is kind of self-limiting behavior and possibly self-destructive.

Some of my Sandisks seem to run very hot. Samsung USB drives may run cooler, but I haven't tried them yet.


----------



## Tophoos

iChris93 said:


> This has been in the last several versions and I do not see Tesla changing it back. The speed gets set at the speed you're going when you steer out of auto steer.


I just wish that they will at least change it so that when you set AP back, it goes straight to your offset speed, just like it does when you enable AP normally.


----------



## Perscitus

Also still no 'Charging Completed' or 'Charging Interrupted' notifications here... I tried to trigger both under this recent build. No changes here since early 4x.xx builds.

Other notifications come through without issue. 

No Headlight, DRL, Fog flicker as far as I can tell (parked, driving, etc.)


----------



## Karl Sun

Vin said:


> 2. Power off vehicle entirely. (go to menu Security/Power Off)
> I have never done this yet since I've had the car and they said since I've had lots of updates it's best to do that to refresh like once a year ( wheel restart like once a quarter) but here's an interesting detail- you have to sit in the car for 2-2 1/2 minutes without moving much because that could wake up the car.


You don't have to stay in the car. Open drivers door before pressing "Security/Power Off" and confirm. Then get out and close the door. The screen and car stay off until another event like opening a door (but not the trunk), inserting charging cable, wake up remotely, etc.


----------



## Karl Sun

Bernard said:


> 2 days ago a large RAM 3500 pickup in the next lane at a traffic light was creeping forward, but still behind me; as it crept forward, it morphed from a car to a pickup truck, then to two pickup trucks behind each other, then finally to a delivery truck. (I must say that I sympathized with the car: these pickups are so huge they might as well be semi-tractors ;-) Just yesterday on the main road here, I was following a motorcycle and the motorcycle kept dividing into two motorcycles and merging back into one with each minor fluctuation in the distance separating us.
> 
> This behavior would lead me to conclude that the program is not (yet?) integrating its experience over the last few minutes of driving, but constantly rediscovering its environment. Some of that is clearly necessary, but information acquired about other cars, for instance, should track from scan to scan and so remain consistent. (Not hard to do: it's regularly done in any target acquisition system, for instance.) Perhaps a lot of these improvements are simply being deferred until HW 3.0 is in place?


 Seems to me it's because there are forward-facing and rearward-facing side cameras at different height and pointed in different angless. The computer has to analyze each object as it becomes, first only visible by one camera, then both, then the other camera as the vehicle moves past overtaking or being overtaken.

The current target acquisition system isn't working so well for very close objects. Gonna need more processing power.


----------



## aronth5

Swoop said:


> Finally got 50.6 two days ago and have lost TeslaCam completely. Reformatted the USB drive but nothing. Soft reset and shutdown the M3D but no luck. Anyone else lose TeslaCam?


Just checked my TeslaCam and no new files were created today. Saved files were still there though.


----------



## sduck

Swoop said:


> Good to know...that's okay. Thanks for asking...
> 
> ...nothing...no icon...the subfolder "teslacam" is still there when I check the thumb drive and even deleted and reformatted the disk to see if it was a corruption issue. I'll keep trouble shooting...thank you. Tried both forward USB ports too. -JD


Make sure you've capitalized correctly - "TeslaCam"

Probably unrelated, but i had one update (48.12 maybe?) completely kill my dashcam drive. The drive wouldn't load or anything from any of the computers I tried it in. Couldn't even format it. Threw it out. The replacement one has worked flawlessly ever since.


----------



## Bernard

ytr3wq said:


> 50.6 just installed this morning (from 50.5). I hope if fixes an issue I've had where the "auto" headlights occasionally come on in bright daylight. Usually I can get them to stop by going from auto, to off, and back to auto. At least once that didn't work and they stayed on.
> 
> I has been happening for many months, over many software versions.
> 
> Anyone know how the M3 senses the auto headlight? I don't think it is a dirty sensor, because the car is usually dirty, and it only happens a couple times a week.


I have observed a similar problem, also across several firmwares. Does not happen when driving and does not happen when I leave the car and lock it, but if I sit in the car in full daylight e.g., (waiting for my wife to come back from an errand), the car will sometimes keep its headlights on -- not for a few minutes, but for unlimited (well, at least more than 20mins) time. Exiting the car and re-entering it fixes the problem, as does moving the car, or turning the car off from the screen, then on again with the brake pedal. Turning the headlights off from the screen then restoring them to auto does *not* fix the problem. No big deal as long as it does not happen while driving, but odd all the same.


----------



## iChris93

Perscitus said:


> Also still no 'Charging Completed' or 'Charging Interrupted' notifications here... I tried to trigger both under this recent build. No changes here since early 4x.xx builds.


Do you have your range set to display in distance or %?


----------



## JWardell

It seems Tesla has banked everyone on to this version now, and we are going on 7 weeks since week 50...
I get the feeling something big is coming in the next update!


----------



## Reliev

gary in NY said:


> Still no "Charging Completed" message when home charging. I've not had one since v46 or so a few months ago (all notices are turned on in the app). It's not the end of the world, but it was a good reminder that the car was charged and ready to go.


have you tried reinstalling the app? I have got this every version I had including this one. I also get started and interrupted.


----------



## MelindaV

PaulT said:


> **Problems with this update**
> 
> The set speed for adaptive cruise control randomly drops about 15-20 mph when you disable autopilot steering by moving steering wheel. This is very annoying with this update. Also, Tesla still has not fixed the sporadic automatic change in cruise control speed based on offset.





iChris93 said:


> This has been in the last several versions and I do not see Tesla changing it back. The speed gets set at the speed you're going when you steer out of auto steer.


But KEEP REPORTING THIS TO TESLA if you want a chance of it to be returned to its prior way of working.


----------



## MelindaV

gary in NY said:


> Still no "Charging Completed" message when home charging. I've not had one since v46 or so a few months ago (all notices are turned on in the app). It's not the end of the world, but it was a good reminder that the car was charged and ready to go.





Perscitus said:


> Also still no 'Charging Completed' or 'Charging Interrupted' notifications here... I tried to trigger both under this recent build. No changes here since early 4x.xx builds.
> 
> Other notifications come through without issue.
> 
> No Headlight, DRL, Fog flicker as far as I can tell (parked, driving, etc.)


This is more related to the app and/or your phone. Have you tried to uninstall the app and reinstall it?


----------



## gary in NY

MelindaV said:


> This is more related to the app and/or your phone. Have you tried to uninstall the app and reinstall it?


I'm am trying this as I type. I'm fully charged right now, but will update later with the results.


----------



## iChris93

gary in NY said:


> I'm am trying this as I type. I'm fully charged right now, but will update later with the results.


I do not know if you saw my previous message but



iChris93 said:


> Do you have your range set to display in distance or %?


I am trying to see if there is a trend here. I normally have mine set to miles but have % for my winter profile. We got snow last night so I was in winter profile when I plugged it. I did not get a charge complete notification while I normally do when set to miles instead of %.


----------



## Rick Steinwand

I'm having problems opening my charge door from the button on charge adapter. I'm having to touch the door, or touch the open button on the screen to open it.

Also, I'm having more trouble connecting to the charge screen from the app. Both are new to me in this version.


----------



## Perscitus

MelindaV said:


> This is more related to the app and/or your phone. Have you tried to uninstall the app and reinstall it?


Might be, old phone (circa 2014), old Android build (6.x)... however all other notifications still come through (even today).

I will try un/reinstall as the car is almost done juicing up for the week.

Similarly to Chris, I have had my profile set to % SoC instead of Mile-Range quazi guesstimate for a few months now. Might be a direct correlation.


----------



## iChris93

Perscitus said:


> Similarly to Chris, I have had my profile set to % SoC instead of Mile-Range quazi guesstimate for a few months now. Might be a direct correlation.


I love solving mysteries. Please let me know if it works for you under mile-range.


----------



## Rick Steinwand

I haven't seen my headlights flicker after doing the two fingers + brake salute (which shut down my vehicle) and after the vehicle fan shut down, I hit the brake and shutdown again from the vehicle... shutdown button. When the vehicle fan shut off the second time, the flickering should be fixed.

Thanks to the person who posted this earlier and the ranger who told him to do this. I suspect this is a fix for several things.


----------



## JeffC

SimonMatthews said:


> That's nice, but they are almost possible to see with my aged eyes and against a red car. I can see them only if I put my reading glasses on (not a good idea while driving). Tesla needs to make the tail light image much larger.


Some of us are at an age where we need multifocal (bifocal/trifocal) glasses....


----------



## Bokonon

iChris93 said:


> I love solving mysteries. Please let me know if it works for you under mile-range.


Thanks for this... I believe you've solved the mystery!

I just sat in my car for a bit, repeatedly adjusting the charging limit up and down. I found that I received a charge complete notification 100% of the time when my car was set to display range in miles, and 0% of the time when it was set to display range as a percentage.

If you leave the app open to the charging screen as you toggle the energy display setting, you'll notice that the app immediately toggles between miles and % as well. This is because the API reports the range units in addition to the range itself. Combined with the fact that the app seems to be the originator of the charge complete notification, I think we can conclude that the lack of a notification is a bug in the app, not a bug in the firmware... and therefore should be reported through the appropriate app store channels rather than through the car.


----------



## iChris93

Bokonon said:


> Thanks for this... I believe you've solved the mystery!
> 
> I just sat in my car for a bit, repeatedly adjusting the charging limit up and down. I found that I received a charge complete notification 100% of the time when my car was set to display range in miles, and 0% of the time when it was set to display range as a percentage.
> 
> If you leave the app open to the charging screen as you toggle the energy display setting, you'll notice that the app immediately toggles between miles and % as well. This is because the API reports the range units in addition to the range itself. Combined with the fact that the app seems to be the originator of the charge complete notification, I think we can conclude that the lack of a notification is a bug in the app, not a bug in the firmware... and therefore should be reported through the appropriate app store channels rather than through the car.


Amazing!


----------



## Achooo

Since this update a couple of days ago, charge port no longer opens when button on charging wand is pressed. Initially I thought that it might be problem with my mobile connector, but I noted the same behavior today at a supercharge. I have to either use the app or open the charge port from the touch screen. Has anyone noted similar behavior?


----------



## Kizzy

Achooo said:


> Since this update a couple of days ago, charge port no longer opens when button on charging wand is pressed. Initially I thought that it might be problem with my mobile connector, but I noted the same behavior today at a supercharge. I have to either use the app or open the charge port from the touch screen. Has anyone noted similar behavior?


I haven't had an opportunity to test this, but don't forget pressing on the chargeport door to open as well.


----------



## gary in NY

iChris93 said:


> I do not know if you saw my previous message but
> 
> I am trying to see if there is a trend here. I normally have mine set to miles but have % for my winter profile. We got snow last night so I was in winter profile when I plugged it. I did not get a charge complete notification while I normally do when set to miles instead of %.


My display is set to %, but was set to miles a few months ago.

Also, I deleted/reloaded the app (on iPhone 7), which made no difference - still no "charging complete" message. Also, doing that is a real PITA, because you lose everything in your settings, including your password, and your phone connection to the car. If you are anything like me, you have no idea what your password is, which means you have to reset it, then pair your phone to the car. (The password saved on the phone did not work.)

In related news:

My charge port door works fine.
I have no flickering lights.

This may not be related to the update, but it takes me several tries to engage autopilot. There is no message on screen, just nothing happens the first few times. Then all of a sudden it will engage after four or five attempts. Doesn't seem to matter what type of road I am on.


----------



## ytr3wq

Bernard said:


> I have observed a similar problem, also across several firmwares. Does not happen when driving and does not happen when I leave the car and lock it, but if I sit in the car in full daylight e.g., (waiting for my wife to come back from an errand), the car will sometimes keep its headlights on -- not for a few minutes, but for unlimited (well, at least more than 20mins) time. Exiting the car and re-entering it fixes the problem, as does moving the car, or turning the car off from the screen, then on again with the brake pedal. Turning the headlights off from the screen then restoring them to auto does *not* fix the problem. No big deal as long as it does not happen while driving, but odd all the same.


Thanks Bernard.

I usually notice that my lights are on, incorrectly, while driving. Mostly commute, starting off in shade then back after dark, these days. I thinks going from park to moving doesn't turn them off, but I will watch closer.

Very little talk of this issue on the forums. Maybe a small, bad, batch of sensors? Mine M3 is LR, June '18 build, 42xxx VIN? Is yours around then?


----------



## MelindaV

gary in NY said:


> This may not be related to the update, but it takes me several tries to engage autopilot. There is no message on screen, just nothing happens the first few times. Then all of a sudden it will engage after four or five attempts. Doesn't seem to matter what type of road I am on.


could that be something up with your right hand steering wheel lever? does it work 100% when selecting a gear?


----------



## GDN

Despite the issues noted, 50.6 is definitely the predominant release now. On Teslafi 1667 Model 3's total and 1374 (82%) are running this release. 100 on 50.5 and 88 on 50. This sampling shows almost everyone (93%) is on some version of 50. 48.12.1 is still holding on with 70 cars. The remaining few are all over the place. 

Seems Tesla is trying to get leveled off on this release for the next jumping off place. Hope that includes fixes for the problems reported here and then maybe smart summon or some other new features.


----------



## gary in NY

MelindaV said:


> could that be something up with your right hand steering wheel lever? does it work 100% when selecting a gear?


You know, that's a very good question. I had not realized it-or connected the two, but it does not always go into drive/reverse on the first try. Sometimes it's because I don't have my foot on the brake, but other times I do.


----------



## Shadow LI

Is losing 6 miles of range in 90 minutes with car parked outside in 27 degree cold reasonable?


----------



## Achooo

Kizzy said:


> I haven't had an opportunity to test this, but don't forget pressing on the chargeport door to open as well.


Wow! That works. I had totally forgotten that you could open the charge port that way. Thanks for the tip!


----------



## Perscitus

iChris93 said:


> I love solving mysteries. Please let me know if it works for you under mile-range.


Reported to Tesla via the app (and Google Play app listed email). Hopefully if enough of us report this across various platforms and models/trims, it will get 'fixed' on the app side soon.


----------



## Mike

Tony V said:


> Is losing 6 miles of range in 90 minutes with car parked outside in 27 degree cold reasonable?


Just guessing here: when I'm on a road trip and watching the % battery remaining when the regen limited dots finally disappear, denoting a warmed up battery, I have seen the % remaining actually jump 3%.

Is it possible your battery was warm from a recent recharge session and then parked out in the cold it is already "setting aside some range", even though the battery is not yet cold enough for the blue snowflake to show up.

I know that my car, once reaching it's charge setpoint, will settle back down 2% after an amount of time has passed and I chock that up to the battery cooling off........


----------



## iChris93

Perscitus said:


> Reported to Tesla via the app (and Google Play app listed email). Hopefully if enough of us report this across various platforms and models/trims, it will get 'fixed' on the app side soon.


I'm not convinced it's an app issue since it's on both OS.


----------



## Long Ranger

Tophoos said:


> I just wish that they will at least change it so that when you set AP back, it goes straight to your offset speed, just like it does when you enable AP normally.


Agreed. When I reengage AP after steering out of it, I now do a quick disengage first. So up/down/down on the stalk. That restores the speed to where I want it.

Warning: When disengaging AP at very slow speeds you should be sure to only move the stalk up to the first detent (a good habit all the time). Moving the stalk all the way up can put the car into reverse if you're traveling under 5 mph. I recall someone being surprised by that behavior and nearly getting rear ended.


----------



## Bokonon

iChris93 said:


> I'm not convinced it's an app issue since it's on both OS.


FWIW, based on Tesla's prior job listings, and the fact that both the iOS and Android apps always get updated in tandem, I *think* (but do not know for sure) that they've built their app using Xamarin, a toolkit for building cross-platform native iOS/Android apps. If that's the case, then any bug or behavior present in the iOS version should also be present in the Android version, and vice-versa.

With that said, it's also possible that push notifications originate on the server-side, and they sync your notification preferences there... so who knows. As long as they fix it, I'm good!


----------



## Bokonon

After driving with 50.6 for a bit, I have to agree with those up-thread who have commented that auto-lane-change seems more "hesitant" or "tentative" about changing lanes, and is more prone to abort a lane-change for no apparent reason.

Prior to 50.6, auto-lane-change would check the adjacent lane and initiate the change within about 2 seconds if it was clear, and then make the change smoothly and confidently, just like a human would. With 50.6, it seems like my car has to wait at least 4-5 seconds before it will even think about making the change, and then it will start to drift over the line slooooowly, and will sometimes start the abort the change halfway through, even on a straight, flat road with no other cars in sight. I haven't seen this sort of behavior since the initial NoA release, so it strikes me as a regression.

I filed a bug report when it happened today, but have not double-checked my side cameras to ensure there isn't any salt buildup or other obstruction that could be impairing auto-lane-change. I'll do that tomorrow just to be sure.


----------



## undergrove

I posted this previously on the wrong thread:

I just got 50.6 Friday evening. Last night it was plugged in and charged at the regularly scheduled time after midnight and I received a regular Charging Completed notice. Today the car has not been moved or entered and has remained plugged in. I received 3 more Charging Completed notices: at 10:28 AM, 2:29 PM, and 4:04 PM. It cannot have been much of a charge, but I have not noticed anything like this with any previous firmware.


----------



## Reliev

@Achooo sounds like the NFC chip fell off of your door mine doesnt have that issue but I read (probably here or Reddit) that the chips fall out of the charge port doors.


----------



## justaute

undergrove said:


> I posted this previously on the wrong thread:
> 
> I just got 50.6 Friday evening. Last night it was plugged in and charged at the regularly scheduled time after midnight and I received a regular Charging Completed notice. Today the car has not been moved or entered and has remained plugged in. I received 3 more Charging Completed notices: at 10:28 AM, 2:29 PM, and 4:04 PM. It cannot have been much of a charge, but I have not noticed anything like this with any previous firmware.


Same with mine.


----------



## ras2645

I was backing my car out of the garage a day after getting 50.6 and "somehow" the garage door automatically closed on my trunk. I saw it closing as I looked in my rear view mirror but I couldnt react fast enough to pull it forward before it hit my car. I am not happy.


----------



## Swoop

GDN said:


> Take your USB drive in to a PC and see if it is still usable. I had a cheap one that burned up...There has been another report of that...


Thank you for this- I swapped thumb drives and #2 worked. #1 functions on the laptop but won't work in the car. Problem fixed. Thank you! FYI- I think the update might've fried the USB drive. The last files on the drive were from the night of the update.

P.S. Lights still flicker for <10 seconds when cold and parked outside.


----------



## Mike

ras2645 said:


> I was backing my car out of the garage a day after getting 50.6 and "somehow" the garage door automatically closed on my trunk. I saw it closing as I looked in my rear view mirror but I couldnt react fast enough to pull it forward before it hit my car. I am not happy.


So sorry to hear about your mishap.

FWIW: when I took delivery of the car and prior to setting up the whole Homelink thing (effectively handing over control of my garage door to my new car) I moved the IR (safety) sensors for the door up to be level with the trailing edge of the rear bumper. This way, the IR safety sensor beam is continually broken anytime my car is under that door. YMMV.


----------



## Nautilus

relidtm said:


> @Achooo sounds like the NFC chip fell off of your door mine doesnt have that issue but I read (probably here or Reddit) that the chips fall out of the charge port doors.


If the charge door is able to open by pushing it manually, then I suspect the chip is still in the door. My chip (black magnet, whatever you want to call it) fell out a while ago and since then I'm unable to manually open my charge door by pushing on it. I'm stopping by the service center on the way into work Friday morning to have it fixed. Interestingly, they said that if they have a spare chip around they'll just glue it in and it'll take about a minute. If they don't, then they'll change out the charge port door and that will take closer to an hour. As the service manager told me, "there's nothing special about how it is stuck in place", which is different from what others on here have been told by their service centers. It may be just to get me in and out as quickly as possible but if it fixes the problem and doesn't fall out again, then I'm probably OK with it. There was no talk of changing out the whole charge port to address cold weather issues as I think is happening with some M3s further north.


----------



## Achooo

relidtm said:


> @Achooo sounds like the NFC chip fell off of your door mine doesnt have that issue but I read (probably here or Reddit) that the chips fall out of the charge port doors.


Thanks for the tip. I have service appointment coming up, so I'll add it to the ticket since it may be a hardware issue after all.


----------



## Mike

Nautilus said:


> If the charge door is able to open by pushing it manually, then I suspect the chip is still in the door. My chip (black magnet, whatever you want to call it) fell out a while ago and since then I'm unable to manually open my charge door by pushing on it. I'm stopping by the service center on the way into work Friday morning to have it fixed. Interestingly, they said that if they have a spare chip around they'll just glue it in and it'll take about a minute. If they don't, then they'll change out the charge port door and that will take closer to an hour. As the service manager told me, "there's nothing special about how it is stuck in place", which is different from what others on here have been told by their service centers. It may be just to get me in and out as quickly as possible but if it fixes the problem and doesn't fall out again, then I'm probably OK with it. There was no talk of changing out the whole charge port to address cold weather issues as I think is happening with some M3s further north.


My little door magnet also fell out but I was lucky to notice it on my garage floor when it happened.

When the Tesla Ranger service came to reload my maps and R&R the front headlamp back in November, he also reglued the magnet into my existing door.

IIRC, it was a polyurethane glue that cured in five minutes.


----------



## ras2645

Mike said:


> So sorry to hear about your mishap.
> 
> FWIW: when I took delivery of the car and prior to setting up the whole Homelink thing (effectively handing over control of my garage door to my new car) I moved the IR (safety) sensors for the door up to be level with the trailing edge of the rear bumper. This way, the IR safety sensor beam is continually broken anytime my car is under that door. YMMV.


Thank you for the idea of moving the sensor, I'm goint ot do it this weekend. I have never had a problem like this ever. I've had the car for 5 months and parked it in the same spot every day. I suspect that something in 50.6 caused this, there is no other explanation. I saw others posting in earlier pages what seemed to uninitiated behavior related to the garage door. I love the car, every time it gets damaged in any way it takes me days to get over the trauma. This was very frustrating because its not my fault and i do believe that its related to the software.


----------



## FRC

ras2645 said:


> Thank you for the idea of moving the sensor, I'm goint ot do it this weekend. I have never had a problem like this ever. I've had the car for 5 months and parked it in the same spot every day. I suspect that something in 50.6 caused this, there is no other explanation. I saw others posting in earlier pages what seemed to uninitiated behavior related to the garage door. I love the car, every time it gets damaged in any way it takes me days to get over the trauma. This was very frustrating because its not my fault and i do believe that its related to the software.


Did the car make the "boing" noise before the door started down?


----------



## Achooo

Nautilus said:


> If the charge door is able to open by pushing it manually, then I suspect the chip is still in the door. My chip (black magnet, whatever you want to call it) fell out a while ago and since then I'm unable to manually open my charge door by pushing on it. I'm stopping by the service center on the way into work Friday morning to have it fixed. Interestingly, they said that if they have a spare chip around they'll just glue it in and it'll take about a minute. If they don't, then they'll change out the charge port door and that will take closer to an hour. As the service manager told me, "there's nothing special about how it is stuck in place", which is different from what others on here have been told by their service centers. It may be just to get me in and out as quickly as possible but if it fixes the problem and doesn't fall out again, then I'm probably OK with it. There was no talk of changing out the whole charge port to address cold weather issues as I think is happening with some M3s further north.


Any idea where this chip or black magnet would be located? Is it something I can readily check on when the charge port door is open?


----------



## Mike

ras2645 said:


> Thank you for the idea of moving the sensor, I'm goint ot do it this weekend. I have never had a problem like this ever. I've had the car for 5 months and parked it in the same spot every day. I suspect that something in 50.6 caused this, there is no other explanation. I saw others posting in earlier pages what seemed to uninitiated behavior related to the garage door. I love the car, every time it gets damaged in any way it takes me days to get over the trauma. This was very frustrating because its not my fault and i do believe that its related to the software.


As was pointed out to me, moving the sensors up does increase chances of "issues" if you have children and/or pets.

Since I don't, I accept the added risk that the garage door will simply reverse upon contact with any obstruction that is shorter than the rear most edge of my rear bumper.


----------



## Mike

Achooo said:


> Any idea where this chip or black magnet would be located? Is it something I can readily check on when the charge port door is open?


Open the charge port door ànd look at the actual black plastic back side of the door itself (the front side being the red reflector).

At the "top" (which is the bottom with the charge port door closed), you should see a flat, diamond shaped magnet glued into place.


----------



## GDN

Mike said:


> Open the charge port door ànd look at the actual black plastic back side of the door itself (the front side being the red reflector).
> 
> At the "top" (which is the bottom with the charge port door closed), you should see a flat, diamond shaped magnet glued into place.


@Mike described it well and without trying to go get a new pic, this thread describes the problem and does have a couple of pictures in it. The "manual" charge port door was very problematic for many people. https://teslaownersonline.com/threads/charge-port-door-manual-open-broke.7253/


----------



## Achooo

Mike said:


> Open the charge port door ànd look at the actual black plastic back side of the door itself (the front side being the red reflector).
> 
> At the "top" (which is the bottom with the charge port door closed), you should see a flat, diamond shaped magnet glued into place.





GDN said:


> @Mike described it well and without trying to go get a new pic, this thread describes the problem and does have a couple of pictures in it. The "manual" charge port door was very problematic for many people. https://teslaownersonline.com/threads/charge-port-door-manual-open-broke.7253/


Thanks friends! I will take a look and see whether I still have that parallelogram piece. If I still have it, then I guess I can attribute the problem to a software bug. It's not that annoying I guess since I'm able to still open the door manually by pushing on it. However, I have to admit, it bothers me none the less.


----------



## SimonMatthews

Achooo said:


> Thanks friends! I will take a look and see whether I still have that parallelogram piece.


Be careful. When I went to check on this piece on my car, it fell out into my hand. Be ready to catch it.


----------



## Achooo

So I went to check on that black magnet and I still have it on the bottom side of the charge port door so this must be a software issues after all. I’m still able to open manually but not with the charging wand.


----------



## crmatson

I just noticed the flickering headlights this morning. 
FWIW, this is the first morning that temperatures were below freezing inside my garage. 
It is currently -20 deg F in central Iowa.


----------



## MelindaV

Achooo said:


> So I went to check on that black magnet and I still have it on the bottom side of the charge port door so this must be a software issues after all. I'm still able to open manually but not with the charging wand.


The car has to be already unlocked or awake for the button on the wand to open the charge port. If the car has been sitting, pressing the rear door handle (enough to wake the car, but doesn't need to be enough to unlatch the door) will do it. Then you can use the button on the wand.


----------



## Achooo

MelindaV said:


> The car has to be already unlocked or awake for the button on the wand to open the charge port. If the car has been sitting, pressing the rear door handle (enough to wake the car, but doesn't need to be enough to unlatch the door) will do it. Then you can use the button on the wand.





MelindaV said:


> The car has to be already unlocked or awake for the button on the wand to open the charge port. If the car has been sitting, pressing the rear door handle (enough to wake the car, but doesn't need to be enough to unlatch the door) will do it. Then you can use the button on the wand.


Yes, I have noticed this behavior in the past. I am actually having trouble using the wand right after parking the car in the garage before it has locked. I had the same issue at the supercharger right after backing up and walking out of the car.


----------



## Erix

This may be related to 50.6 or not. In any case it happened after the update. 
I was auto parking into a perpendicular spot (I like to use that feature every once and a while even though it slows the parking process) and as the car was making its final adjustment into the spot it moved forward just as a car was passing in front as if that car wasn’t detected so I had to intervene with a quick jab on the brake to avoid a crash. I was quite surprised the passing car was ignored - that seems like it would be a basic check in the algorithm.


----------



## GDN

It seems since this release my blinkers are not near as loud as they used to be. I've always thought the blinkers were unusually loud, but have noticed this week I don't really hear them at all.

Anyone else?


----------



## Bokonon

GDN said:


> It seems since this release my blinkers are not near as loud as they used to be. I've always thought the blinkers were unusually loud, but have noticed this week I don't really hear them at all.


Were blinker sounds always proportional to audio source volume? I was on a call the other day, and was having trouble hearing the other parties, so I turned the call volume turned up all the way. When I next signaled for a turn, I remember thinking that my blinker sounded much louder than usual.


----------



## justaute

FWIW...my screen goes blank, while in Park, if I make a phone call after getting into the car. It happened twice today.


----------



## GDN

Bokonon said:


> Were blinker sounds always proportional to audio source volume? I was on a call the other day, and was having trouble hearing the other parties, so I turned the call volume turned up all the way. When I next signaled for a turn, I remember thinking that my blinker sounded much louder than usual.


I'm quite certain the blinkers were always about the same loudness and they were loud, until I got 50.6. They seem much quieter and nothing I could do today would change the volume of them. Bluetooth volume, stereo volume, nav volume. Seemed all the same to me.


----------



## gary in NY

I noticed the flickering headlights last night. This was while in high beams, between 0-10 degrees F. It was as if they couldn't decide whether to stay in high beams or switch to low beams. lows were ok with no flicker.


----------



## MelindaV

GDN said:


> I'm quite certain the blinkers were always about the same loudness and they were loud, until I got 50.6. They seem much quieter and nothing I could do today would change the volume of them. Bluetooth volume, stereo volume, nav volume. Seemed all the same to me.


no difference in mine since 50.6


----------



## evannole

After delaying for a week, I finally agreed to install this update last night. No problems so far. Autopilot on my drive this morning was, if anything, a bit smoother, and it seemed like NOA didn't suggest as many ridiculously early lane changes as it did before.


----------



## Swoop

gary in NY said:


> I noticed the flickering headlights last night...


Flicker- No real update except a confirmation from Mt. Kisco Tesla this morning that the headlamp flicker is a software issue which is being addressed. Not a hardware problem. I'm on 50.6 and have had it since temps went below 25F and the car stays outside at night (plugged in.)


----------



## gary in NY

Swoop said:


> Flicker- No real update except a confirmation from Mt. Kisco Tesla this morning that the headlamp flicker is a software issue which is being addressed. Not a hardware problem.


Thanks for the info. I know they will get it worked out eventually, just like the missing "Charging Completed" message when charging at home and your battery is displayed as a %.


----------



## @gravityrydr

iChris93 said:


> I would say the headlights flickering but I think someone here posted saying they still had it. I was on 50 with flickering but just got updated to 50.6 within the past hour.


During the recent cold snap, I've had the flicker the first few minutes after starting out. I received the update a week ago.


----------



## GDN

I went from 48.12 to 50.6 and have not ever seen or noticed the flicker. I can't say it was fixed in 50.6, but it does not seem to be present when skipping 50.5.

Just checked Teslafi and 95% of all 3's are on some version of 50. 86% are on 50.6, so if it is fixed in 50.6 we should have very few people left with the problem.


----------



## iChris93

GDN said:


> I went from 48.12 to 50.6 and have not ever seen or noticed the flicker. I can't say it was fixed in 50.6, but it does not seem to be present when skipping 50.5.
> 
> Just checked Teslafi and 95% of all 3's are on some version of 50. 86% are on 50.6, so if it is fixed in 50.6 we should have very few people left with the problem.


I went from 50 to 50.6 and definitely still have it.


----------



## nonStopSwagger

I've noticed 2 types of flicker with 50.5 & 50.6. High beam flicker, which is seizure inducing. And the eyebrow light flicker in my garage before pulling out. Cold temperatures seem to play into it too.


----------



## ADK46

I've gotten the flicker on the last two nights, while on highs with auto-dim. It only lasted 5-10 seconds, and was not severe - no where near seizure level. 

It happened both times on the same stretch of road, but since I'd left from about the same location, it was also about the same time from start-up. No unusual signs or reflectors present.


----------



## Frully

Definitely piling onto the light flicker issue...
Have had noticeable flicker in low beams, high beams, and possibly fog lights since 50.0. Now that I have 50.6 it's drastically worse.

It happens when the vehicle is warm first startup in garage (15C) or cold (-10C)
https://photos.app.goo.gl/XakGCiSAiUxFAm1U7

During this video I'm manually holding the high beam stalk in most of the time. When it returns to low beams I'm releasing the handle. Not using auto high beam.


----------



## evannole

My Dad, who has not bothered to connect his 3 to Wi-Fi, received this update over LTE this morning. He hadn't received any updates in quite a while; I think he was coming from 38-something. So for whatever reason, Tesla has decided to send this one out over LTE. Maybe it has some critical fixes, or maybe it's a prerequisite for whatever the next large update is, in which case, maybe that's about to drop.

(My car is already on 50.6, as previously mentioned. No major issues for me, though phone-as-key has been perhaps just a bit less reliable than the ~99% success rate I have had historically.)


----------



## GDN

evannole said:


> My Dad, who has not bothered to connect his 3 to Wi-Fi, received this update over LTE this morning. He hadn't received any updates in quite a while; I think he was coming from 38-something. So for whatever reason, Tesla has decided to send this one out over LTE. Maybe it has some critical fixes, or maybe it's a prerequisite for whatever the next large update is, in which case, maybe that's about to drop.
> 
> (My car is already on 50.6, as previously mentioned. No major issues for me, though phone-as-key has been perhaps just a bit less reliable than the ~99% success rate I have had historically.)


Why hasn't he connected to WiFi? Is it not available or he just doesn't want it connected? It likely got pushed to him because they are now trying to finish up the stragglers. It has been noted as well that if they can't push via WiFi then it would eventually push over LTE, it seems they have changed now and are sending it to those that don't have it yet over the backup method

I don't know if they will ever allow maps to download over LTE though, so some day when we get a new maps update, he may get stuck and not get updated any further at that point. That isn't definitive, but they are definitely trying to conserve bandwidth and use WiFi when possible for SW updates and Maps.

Checking Teslafi just now 90.7% are on 50.6 and 96.2% are on some version of 50. That leaves a very small percentage on other versions. 
Hoping that the next thing is coming. The more advanced features of Summon or EAP? or just a good clean bug fix release. You never know.


----------



## evannole

GDN said:


> Why hasn't he connected to WiFi? Is it not available or he just doesn't want it connected? It likely got pushed to him because they are not trying to finish up the stragglers. It has been noted as well that if they can't push via WiFi then it would eventually push over LTE, it seems they have changed now and are sending it to those that don't have it yet over the backup method
> 
> I don't know if they will ever allow maps to download over LTE though, so some day when we get a new maps update, he may get stuck and not get updated any further at that point. That isn't definitive, but they are definitely trying to conserve bandwidth and use WiFi when possible for SW updates and Maps.
> 
> Checking Teslafi just now 90.7% are on 50.6 and 96.2% are on some version of 50. That leaves a very small percentage on other versions.
> Hoping that the next thing is coming. The more advanced features of Summon or EAP? or just a good clean bug fix release. You never know.


Yup, agree, you never know, and speculation is half the fun!

My parents' Wi-Fi signal doesn't reach their garage, which is why my Dad hasn't connected his car. It's an older ranch house (hence spread over a large horizontal area) with plaster interior walls and heavy masonry exterior walls; all three of these factors probably result in a lot of signal attenuation.

We were down there over Christmas and I verified this myself. I intended to hook up a Wi-Fi extender in their garage for them while I was there, but both my wife and I caught the flu the day we arrived and were down for the count for almost our entire stay. So, it'll have to wait until our next visit.


----------



## Jim H

evannole said:


> Yup, agree, you never know, and speculation is half the fun!
> 
> My parents' Wi-Fi signal doesn't reach their garage, which is why my Dad hasn't connected his car. It's an older ranch house (hence spread over a large horizontal area) with plaster interior walls and heavy masonry exterior walls; all three of these factors probably result in a lot of signal attenuation.
> 
> We were down there over Christmas and I verified this myself. I intended to hook up a Wi-Fi extender in their garage for them while I was there, but both my wife and I caught the flu the day we arrived and were down for the count for almost our entire stay. So, it'll have to wait until our next visit.


I also had a weak signal in the garage, so I went with the extender. Hooked up just outside the attached garage, and my signal went from 1 bar to full strength. This was a cheap upgrade for better coverage.


----------



## Dr. Prunesquallor

Jim H said:


> I also had a weak signal in the garage, so I went with the extender. Hooked up just outside the attached garage, and my signal went from 1 bar to full strength. This was a cheap upgrade for better coverage.


Yep, I did the same thing. I had an old Apple Airport laying around and put it in the garage as an extender. The Airport Utility tells me that the car is seeing up to 300 Mbps.


----------



## SimonMatthews

I just saw the issue with favorites in the audio menu. Old saved favorites seem to be OK, but adding a new favorite appears not to be persistent: it will be in the favorites menu and later disappear. Today, a newly re-saved favorite disappeared just as I touched it to select it.


----------



## groovyd

I'm on the 4th floor of my condo complex and the garage is full cement ceiling and walls, not only does it get no wifi but also no LTE. It really sucks because I never get updates and in the morning the app never can connect with my car to turn on the climate etc. Range extenders would do no good here either. There is one business right outside the garage with wifi strong enough to hit my car but when I asked about their wifi to see if I could piggy back off it they were like 'no', end of discussion. And what makes it even worse is there is no way to tell my M3 to stop nagging me to connect wifi. Parking lot at work is almost identical setup, a 4 story cement parking garage with no signal either wifi or LTE. I only get a little radio for 10 minutes on the way to work and back. Pulled into local Tesla shop and their connection only hits at 2 bars anywhere in the parking lot and drops frequently.


----------



## GDN

That two bars at the Tesla center may be your ticket. Hang out there an hour or so. Maybe bribe an employee at the business for their Wifi. Connect to your phones hotspot while on the commute, your car will be connected to wifi vs LTE and you might have a better chance of downloads as well.


----------



## groovyd

GDN said:


> That two bars at the Tesla center may be your ticket. Hang out there an hour or so. Maybe bribe an employee at the business for their Wifi. Connect to your phones hotspot while on the commute, your car will be connected to wifi vs LTE and you might have a better chance of downloads as well.


good suggestions but I don't own a phone. was thinking about sitting in front of a starbucks or something someday but that just felt desperate.


----------



## Mike

groovyd said:


> good suggestions but I don't own a phone.


A fellow soulmate.

I was given an old iPhone (with no data plan) to work as my key fob.


----------



## Achooo

groovyd said:


> but I don't own a phone.


You're an inspiration


----------



## Achooo

MelindaV said:


> The car has to be already unlocked or awake for the button on the wand to open the charge port. If the car has been sitting, pressing the rear door handle (enough to wake the car, but doesn't need to be enough to unlatch the door) will do it. Then you can use the button on the wand.


I found out some interesting behavior with the charge port door yesterday. The wand is able to open the charge port door ONLY when the car is locked and my phone is nowhere in sight. If the car is unlocked, the wand does not open the charge port. If unlocked, I have to open the door manually.


----------



## SR22pilot

Achooo said:


> I found out some interesting behavior with the charge port door yesterday. The wand is able to open the charge port door ONLY when the car is locked and my phone is nowhere in sight. If the car is unlocked, the wand does not open the charge port. If unlocked, I have to open the door manually.


Totally opposite to my experience.


----------



## Bernard

groovyd said:


> I'm on the 4th floor of my condo complex and the garage is full cement ceiling and walls, not only does it get no wifi but also no LTE. It really sucks because I never get updates and in the morning the app never can connect with my car to turn on the climate etc. Range extenders would do no good here either. There is one business right outside the garage with wifi strong enough to hit my car but when I asked about their wifi to see if I could piggy back off it they were like 'no', end of discussion. And what makes it even worse is there is no way to tell my M3 to stop nagging me to connect wifi. Parking lot at work is almost identical setup, a 4 story cement parking garage with no signal either wifi or LTE. I only get a little radio for 10 minutes on the way to work and back. Pulled into local Tesla shop and their connection only hits at 2 bars anywhere in the parking lot and drops frequently.


You could bring this up at the next condo meeting and see if others would support some upgrade -- it should not be too hard/expensive to install an internet connection to the garage, with a few wifi repeaters, allowing anyone in the condo with proper credentials to access the garage wifi and from that log in to their car (for those for whom that is possible -- but that number can only increase over time).


----------



## Bernard

evannole said:


> Yup, agree, you never know, and speculation is half the fun!
> 
> My parents' Wi-Fi signal doesn't reach their garage, which is why my Dad hasn't connected his car. It's an older ranch house (hence spread over a large horizontal area) with plaster interior walls and heavy masonry exterior walls; all three of these factors probably result in a lot of signal attenuation.
> 
> We were down there over Christmas and I verified this myself. I intended to hook up a Wi-Fi extender in their garage for them while I was there, but both my wife and I caught the flu the day we arrived and were down for the count for almost our entire stay. So, it'll have to wait until our next visit.


And if the extender does not work (because there is no good "halfway point" for it), you can try using a powerline extender (one powerline non-wifi transmitter/receiver connected to the router with a short cable, the other powerline receiver/transmitter plugged in the garage, providing the wifi extender -- the signal is sent over the house powerlines). I had to go that route (although i used two inexpensive non-wifi powerline units and a cheap router I happened to have lying around for the wifi), because my garage is detached, about 100ft away from the main house, with no place to put an extender in-between. In my experience (all with TP-Link products, but I assume they are all about the same across the brands), powerline transmission works just great as long as you don't need to go above 1Gbit/s, as long as the two plugs are on the same house line (they can be on different circuits, even on different panels, but not behind different service meters). For the car, something like N300 speed is more than enough, since, once you have wifi in the garage, it won't matter whether the firmware download takes 5mins or 5hrs.


----------



## GDN

evannole said:


> My Dad, who has not bothered to connect his 3 to Wi-Fi, received this update over LTE this morning. He hadn't received any updates in quite a while; I think he was coming from 38-something. So for whatever reason, Tesla has decided to send this one out over LTE. Maybe it has some critical fixes, or maybe it's a prerequisite for whatever the next large update is, in which case, maybe that's about to drop.
> 
> (My car is already on 50.6, as previously mentioned. No major issues for me, though phone-as-key has been perhaps just a bit less reliable than the ~99% success rate I have had historically.)





groovyd said:


> I'm on the 4th floor of my condo complex and the garage is full cement ceiling and walls, not only does it get no wifi but also no LTE. It really sucks because I never get updates and in the morning the app never can connect with my car to turn on the climate etc. Range extenders would do no good here either. There is one business right outside the garage with wifi strong enough to hit my car but when I asked about their wifi to see if I could piggy back off it they were like 'no', end of discussion. And what makes it even worse is there is no way to tell my M3 to stop nagging me to connect wifi. Parking lot at work is almost identical setup, a 4 story cement parking garage with no signal either wifi or LTE. I only get a little radio for 10 minutes on the way to work and back. Pulled into local Tesla shop and their connection only hits at 2 bars anywhere in the parking lot and drops frequently.


There is nothing better than being hard wired. I'll start by saying that I know I'm very lucky in that I have attic access. 10 years ago I pulled ethernet cable from my central closet to my bedroom and an entertainment center. Then 4 years ago during a remodel I pulled it to a few more places when the ceilings and walls were opened up. I've got a relatively avg house about 2300 sq ft. I've got a router, (4) 4 Gb switches at different endpoints and an Orbi with satellite. My Orbi satellite is for the garage, because even 4 years ago I really couldn't have imagined needing wifi out there, but now there are 2 cars and a connected garage door opener.

To say the least, I say drag that ethernet cable down the hallway to the garage or open a window and drop one down 4 floors !! These cars need their connectivity and be damned to the landlords that aren't cooperative!

OK - tongue in cheek, but I will say while the wireless is so easy, there truly isn't a replacement for a wired connection either if you have any way of wiring the end point back to your main router.


----------



## groovyd

Bernard said:


> You could bring this up at the next condo meeting and see if others would support some upgrade -- it should not be too hard/expensive to install an internet connection to the garage, with a few wifi repeaters, allowing anyone in the condo with proper credentials to access the garage wifi and from that log in to their car (for those for whom that is possible -- but that number can only increase over time).


I'm pretty much the only one so far...


----------



## @gravityrydr

I had something new happen today while driving on NAV on Autopilot. It had been raining and NAV on AP was working then I get the disengagement chime and the following warning pops up. "Poor weather detected - Navigate on Autopilot limited" The car switches to standard AP. Then after a bit NAV on AP returns.

Edit: I should add that on earlier FW I have driven in rain without this happening.


----------



## Achooo

@gravityrydr said:


> I had something new happen today while driving on NAV on Autopilot. It had been raining and NAV on AP was working then I get the disengagement chime and the following warning pops up. "Poor weather detected - Navigate on Autopilot limited" The car switches to standard AP. Then after a bit NAV on AP returns
> View attachment 21664


That is normal behavior when visibility is poor for the cameras.


----------



## @gravityrydr

Achooo said:


> That is normal behavior when visibility is poor for the cameras.


What's interesting is that this did not happen when it had been raining heavier before.


----------



## Achooo

@gravityrydr said:


> What's interesting is that this did not happen when it had been raining heavier before.


That is interesting. I'm not sure exactly why. There may be several factors at play. Radar which is used to determine the distance from the car in front of you may not work as well in the rain; sections of lane lines covered in puddles so they can't be seen by the camera; droplets of the rain on the actual cameras themselves blocking their view; software changes in the way some of the data is interpreted. I'm sure there are other factors at play that I am not considering.


----------



## SR22pilot

@gravityrydr said:


> I had something new happen today while driving on NAV on Autopilot. It had been raining and NAV on AP was working then I get the disengagement chime and the following warning pops up. "Poor weather detected - Navigate on Autopilot limited" The car switches to standard AP. Then after a bit NAV on AP returns.
> 
> Edit: I should add that on earlier FW I have driven in rain without this happening.
> View attachment 21664


I had that happen back when I first got NoA. I think it was 38.something.


----------



## Karl Sun

I have not been able to remote (via cell phone applet) to wake up/pre-heat my car since v50.6 installed. Before 50.x, it would take less than a minute in all cases to conenct to car. Now it NEVER connects - 30+ minutes, nada. If I open a door or trunk, it conencts immediately (less than 5 seconds). But that kinda defeats the purpose of using a remote wake-up/pre-condition tool, No?

Anyone else seeing this behavior?


----------



## slasher016

Karl Sun said:


> I have not been able to remote (via cell phone applet) to wake up/pre-heat my car since v50.6 installed. Before 50.x, it would take less than a minute in all cases to conenct to car. Now it NEVER connects - 30+ minutes, nada. If I open a door or trunk, it conencts immediately (less than 5 seconds). But that kinda defeats the purpose of using a remote wake-up/pre-condition tool, No?
> 
> Anyone else seeing this behavior?


Sounds dumb, but have you rebooted your phone lately?


----------



## Karl Sun

slasher016 said:


> Sounds dumb, but have you rebooted your phone lately?


 Almost daily - when I change batteries.


----------



## Jarettp

My rear camera stops working from time to time. Usually is fixed the next time I enter the car. Anyone else experience this?


----------



## Sumiguchi

Karl Sun said:


> I have not been able to remote (via cell phone applet) to wake up/pre-heat my car since v50.6 installed. Before 50.x, it would take less than a minute in all cases to conenct to car. Now it NEVER connects - 30+ minutes, nada. If I open a door or trunk, it conencts immediately (less than 5 seconds). But that kinda defeats the purpose of using a remote wake-up/pre-condition tool, No?
> 
> Anyone else seeing this behavior?


I used to have problems connecting with the app, but that seems to be working for me pretty consistantly for the last few months. I have an iphone and if the app doesn't wake up the car in 10-15 seconds, I'll double tap home and kill the app - turn off wifi (so that it uses LTE) and it usually connects right away when I restart the tesla app.


----------



## EValuatED

Jarettp said:


> My rear camera stops working from time to time. Usually is fixed the next time I enter the car. Anyone else experience this?


Also once did a reboot and cleared it that way. Going back to P and then R did not clear it.


----------



## littlD

Karl Sun said:


> I have not been able to remote (via cell phone applet) to wake up/pre-heat my car since v50.6 installed. Before 50.x, it would take less than a minute in all cases to conenct to car. Now it NEVER connects - 30+ minutes, nada. If I open a door or trunk, it conencts immediately (less than 5 seconds). But that kinda defeats the purpose of using a remote wake-up/pre-condition tool, No?
> 
> Anyone else seeing this behavior?


I've noticed that TeslaFi also doesn't always succeed in waking up the car for me to turn on the HVAC.
https://teslaownersonline.com/threads/using-teslafi-to-add-features-whats-your-favorite.9592/

In those cases, seems Middie is in "Deep Sleep" mode.

I always send a "Wake Up" command before any other command like turn on HVAC and have asked TeslFi to look into it.


----------



## Mike

Karl Sun said:


> I have not been able to remote (via cell phone applet) to wake up/pre-heat my car since v50.6 installed. Before 50.x, it would take less than a minute in all cases to conenct to car. Now it NEVER connects - 30+ minutes, nada. If I open a door or trunk, it conencts immediately (less than 5 seconds). But that kinda defeats the purpose of using a remote wake-up/pre-condition tool, No?
> 
> Anyone else seeing this behavior?


I did on the previous update.

I'd have to use the Bluetooth lock icon on the app and that would wake the car up to accept non Bluetooth commands.


----------



## Mike

Today, something happened for the first time in eight months of ownership:

Getting into the car, via my normal routine and touching the Homelink garage door open icon......did nothing except produce a warning on the UI to the effect "UI unable to accept inputs, use scroll wheels to reset".

So I did the two finger salute and went on my way with no further issues. ......until I wanted to send a bug report about the event.

With full LTE signal, the car would not respond to any verbal commands for about 90 seconds......almost like the car was still waking up.

After the 90 seconds (or so), the car responded to my bug report.

End event.


----------



## Achooo

EValuatED said:


> Also once did a reboot and cleared it that way. Going back to P and then R did not clear it.


I had the rear camera go black on me while backing up yesterday. I hit the x to close the camera window and brought it up again. Then it worked. It was pouring at the time and around 55 degrees. Not sure if weather has anything to do with it.


----------



## EValuatED

Achooo said:


> I had the rear camera go black on me while backing up yesterday. I hit the x to close the camera window and brought it up again. Then it worked. It was pouring at the time and around 55 degrees. Not sure if weather has anything to do with it.


I should have added I tried that too - didn't work - but the reboot did.


----------



## Tesla Newbie

In the last couple of days, the car stays in Neutral when we move the lever to advance to Reverse or Drive. It’ll then work after a few frantic tries. We did a full reset a couple of times, but that hasn’t kept the problem from recurring. The frequency is intermittent and random, but always after the car has been idle; eg, first thing in the morning or after work. 

We had already been on 50.6 for a few weeks before this happened the first time. We have not filed a bug report but will the next time. 

Anyone have a similar problem?


----------



## GDN

Tesla Newbie said:


> In the last couple of days, the car stays in Neutral when we move the lever to advance to Reverse or Drive. It'll then work after a few frantic tries. We did a full reset a couple of times, but that hasn't kept the problem from recurring. The frequency is intermittent and random, but always after the car has been idle; eg, first thing in the morning or after work.
> 
> We had already been on 50.6 for a few weeks before this happened the first time. We have not filed a bug report but will the next time.
> 
> Anyone have a similar problem?


I'm thinking I'd be getting to a SC before you get stranded. That doesn't sound SW related and I'm not sure I've seen similar issues related.


----------



## groovyd

Tesla Newbie said:


> In the last couple of days, the car stays in Neutral when we move the lever to advance to Reverse or Drive. It'll then work after a few frantic tries. We did a full reset a couple of times, but that hasn't kept the problem from recurring. The frequency is intermittent and random, but always after the car has been idle; eg, first thing in the morning or after work.
> 
> We had already been on 50.6 for a few weeks before this happened the first time. We have not filed a bug report but will the next time.
> 
> Anyone have a similar problem?


Yeah it used to go into reverse always on the first stalk nudge but since the last version or two I always have to do it like 2 or 3 times. It's pretty annoying. It seems like they put some sort of debounce logic in there but whatever they did it is filtering out way too much.


----------



## Long Ranger

Tesla Newbie said:


> In the last couple of days, the car stays in Neutral when we move the lever to advance to Reverse or Drive. It'll then work after a few frantic tries. We did a full reset a couple of times, but that hasn't kept the problem from recurring. The frequency is intermittent and random, but always after the car has been idle; eg, first thing in the morning or after work.
> 
> We had already been on 50.6 for a few weeks before this happened the first time. We have not filed a bug report but will the next time.
> 
> Anyone have a similar problem?


Did you really mean Neutral, or does it just stay in Park? When I first get in the car and step on the brake, there has always been a brief period of time (a couple seconds?) when the car won't let me shift out of Park. I haven't timed it and I'm not sure if it's any worse in recent releases.


----------



## Tesla Newbie

Long Ranger said:


> Did you really mean Neutral, or does it just stay in Park? When I first get in the car and step on the brake, there has always been a brief period of time (a couple seconds?) when the car won't let me shift out of Park. I haven't timed it and I'm not sure if it's any worse in recent releases.


Thanks for making that distinction. I wasn't distinguishing between the two in my mind, but of course you're right. I'm starting from a resting state overnight, so clearly I must be in Park and not Neutral.

I suppose there may be times I'm in more than a rush than usual and attempt the gear change before the car is ready. It's hard to confirm that either way because the problem has been intermittent, and hasn't reoccurred since my post. I'll try some quick gear changes immediately after sitting in the drivers seat to see if it can be repeated.


----------



## Long Ranger

Tesla Newbie said:


> Thanks for making that distinction. I wasn't distinguishing between the two in my mind, but of course you're right. I'm starting from a resting state overnight, so clearly I must be in Park and not Neutral.
> 
> I suppose there may be times I'm in more than a rush than usual and attempt the gear change before the car is ready. It's hard to confirm that either way because the problem has been intermittent, and hasn't reoccurred since my post. I'll try some quick gear changes immediately after sitting in the drivers seat to see if it can be repeated.


Yeah, I notice it most when I'm in a rush. Also, I believe the timing starts when you put your foot on the brake. If you are varying when you step on the brake after entering, that might explain the intermittent aspect of the problem.


----------



## groovyd

It has changed because I absolutely never had to do it more than once before the last update and all the sudden I do. I am quite sure I have changed nothing about how I get in and go or it would be a unlikely coincidence I just happened to change everything and every time precisely since the latest update happened. I think their new 'debounce' might be very minor change on the order of tenths of a second but clearly it is enough to catch me almost every time now.


----------



## SimonMatthews

Long Ranger said:


> Yeah, I notice it most when I'm in a rush. Also, I believe the timing starts when you put your foot on the brake. If you are varying when you step on the brake after entering, that might explain the intermittent aspect of the problem.


Do you use the "Easy Entry" seat setting? I don't think it will go into D or R until it has finished transitioning to your driving settings.


----------



## Hendrik

I have been putting off updating the software on my Model 3 since picking it up back in November (IE - I never connected to Wi-Fi to avoid updates). Reason being is I wanted to experience v8 before v9 came in and refreshed the layout on my screen and updated the autopilot to use all cameras, etc. I was 2018.32 until last week when I received an alert on my way into work that a new update was available. *I found this odd since the majority opinion appears to be that V9 wont go out unless you connect to Wi-Fi. *After putting it off for a week, I finally took the plunge (Estimated install of only 45 minutes). Given the short install time and no Wi-Fi, I thought, this update might put me in the version right before v9. An hour later, I got an alert that the update was completed. *I'm now on 2018.50.6 (v9).* _So there ya go, apparently you can get v9 without connecting to Wi-Fi._

Now that I'm on v9, honestly, I'm kind of disappointed. I can say with certainty that comparing Navigate on AutoPilot with the regular AutoPilot I was using previously, NoA is definitely *worse *than what I had before. While its pretty cool the car now will automatically take an exit or highway interchange, the way that I have experienced it handling them, overall, its worse. It now wants to hug the left or right lane, bobbling between the two. Previously, I could turn on the AutoPilot on a relatively simple, minor bend, very wide interchange and it would handle it just fine. While v8 certainly wouldn't take an off-ramp or interchange on it own, I could engage it once on that interchange and the car performed perfectly, staying centered and maintaining speed (or slowing down if needed due to the bend). When using it on a simple interchange, v9 has almost taken me off the road twice in the last 3 days (went over the white line and I had to take over). That's right, *on a highway interchange road that is almost the width of two lanes, the car went over the white line and almost off road in Navigate on AutoPilot.* Previously, it would go a bit slower than I would like, but it remained nicely centered in the lane. Now, those exact same roads, it struggles. It hugs the left or right lane to the point of where it loses track and actually starts crossing over the lane. I have also experienced a couple instances where the car suddenly braked, I assume because the car in front of me in the adjacent lane was riding on the white line. That over sensitivity could be dangerous with someone behind me. Also, I have had instances of the car bobbling a bit back n forth for no apparent reason (this was virtually no existent on my last version). The car is now overly cautious when approaching a vehicle going slower than me, often jamming on the brakes hard, really far away from the vehicle instead of slowly letting up on the accelerator as we approach the car (as the previous version did much better). Lastly, the car just doesn't drive as smooth as it used it. It steps on the accelerator harder and brakes harder than it used to. Often speeding up quickly and slowing down quickly resulting a whiplash like driving. Its ridiculous. This was supposed to be a huge improvement and it is actually worse than before. The only thing that is significantly improved is the graphical representation of the vehicles around me and the GUI for the HVAC (though I would prefer if they brought back the color for air flow). The blind spot detection is improved, but still glitchy. I've already experienced both false positives and false negatives (to be fair - it was raining). Unless you love twisting your neck around every time you change lanes, this re-confirms my belief that a blind spot mirror is crucial, even with all this cool tech. Thank goodness they haven't been able to get approval to replace the mirrors with cameras. What a nightmare... Overall, I am very dissapointed the AutoPilot seems to actually not work as well as it did on 2018.32. Given my current experience, going back in time, I might have put off the update even longer...

Just my 2 cents. I would love to hear other peoples thoughts on v9. Is anybody else experiencing this? Is it possible someone at Tesla needs to take a look?

NoA cant handle rhe 2 interchanges below (but v8 could..):

https://www.google.com/maps/@35.699...4!1scr0nK25s3gi-YgyMObzPCQ!2e0!7i13312!8i6656

https://www.google.com/maps/@35.768...4!1s0UUl4cX5RgyjQEQQkUfchg!2e0!7i13312!8i6656


----------



## GDN

Nothing odd about a release being pushed over LTE, that is the backup plan if you never connect to Wifi.


----------



## MelindaV

there is no need to use NoA


----------



## Hendrik

Even with NoA turned off, the car still drives as poorly as described in my post...


----------



## Macconnolly

Update happened last night, drove tonight in 20°f weather and headlights flickering like crazy. Also, the whole screen seemed to freeze. I had my turn signal on, and there was no noise played and no little indicator on the screen. I could see the light on the pavement but otherwise couldn’t tell that it was on. 

These little software bugs are starting to bug me...


----------



## Mike

Macconnolly said:


> Update happened last night, drove tonight in 20°f weather and headlights flickering like crazy. Also, the whole screen seemed to freeze. I had my turn signal on, and there was no noise played and no little indicator on the screen. I could see the light on the pavement but otherwise couldn't tell that it was on.
> 
> These little software bugs are starting to bug me...


Welcome to the forum.......and I feel your pain.......


----------



## MelindaV

Macconnolly said:


> Update happened last night, drove tonight in 20°f weather and headlights flickering like crazy. Also, the whole screen seemed to freeze. I had my turn signal on, and there was no noise played and no little indicator on the screen. I could see the light on the pavement but otherwise couldn't tell that it was on.
> 
> These little software bugs are starting to bug me...


have you done a re-boot?


----------



## Macconnolly

Mike said:


> Welcome to the forum.......and I feel your pain.......


Thanks for the welcome! I suspect as others have mentioned, that this is related to the cold weather improvements. As the car is beginning to draw current from the super cold battery, my guess is that voltage fluctuations occur with the sudden high load (seat heaters, defrosters, cabin heat, etc) and whatever new algorithm in place isn't managing current well.

Also, just have to say that I absolutely love the car, and don't mean to complain. This is really a first-world problem and I'm still Duper grateful to even have one.



MelindaV said:


> have you done a re-boot?


Unfortunately rebooting hasn't solved it. I also experience chronic display freezes followed by a crash. Been present for the past three updates and it's been in for service twice now.


----------



## Mike

Had my first long distance, limited access freeway trip with 50.6 today.

Two phantom braking events (in car bug reports made, as well as detailed follow up, email to Tesla).

Both events involved a vehicle to my right becoming a master to the speed EAP thought I should drive at, and EAP wanted my car to trail these other cars.

I was in the center lane (of three available) for both events.

First one was a car using an on ramp to merge into the right lane and when he was at my 2 o'clock position, my car slowed down.

The second one was a car in the right lane, again at my 2 o'clock position, that slowed down a few kph.


----------



## Sasquatch2

anyone else still on 2018.50.6? I don't have the update yet and I'mma crying!!!


----------



## Francois Gaucher

Still on 50.6. Montreal, Canada.


----------



## SMITTY

Im still on 2018.50.6

I live in an apartment where my WiFi doesn't reach the garage - Has anyone tried tethering their phone to the car and leaving it in there to see if it grabs the update?


----------



## MikeF

I literally have a phone on a dedicated 60,000 MaH battery running WiFi in the car 24/7 and I'm still stuck on 2018.50.6. lol


----------



## SMITTY

MikeF said:


> I literally have a phone on a dedicated 60,000 MaH battery running WiFi in the car 24/7 and I'm still stuck on 2018.50.6. lol


hahaha well ****... and I just added tethering to my plan last week for this specific reason.


----------



## MikeF

SMITTY said:


> hahaha well ****... and I just added tethering to my plan last week for this specific reason.


Its not a waste and I recommend it if you have no other way to get wifi in say.. an underground garage. What you can do is just time it for when you know a release is widespread and has been pushed out to most cars. It then fairly quickly gets the update. I think the issue is that for Model 3 owners we are used to getting fast-paced updates nearly every 15 days or less. It has been awhile since the last big push so everyone is wondering what is going on with all these different versions. Not really a big deal since the car still drives.


----------



## RichEV

42 days since the upgrade to 50.6. The longest prior wait was 38 days. I'm starting to get twitchy.


----------



## garsh

RichEV said:


> 42 days since the upgrade to 50.6. The longest prior wait was 38 days. I'm starting to get twitchy.


With the Europe and China deliveries, I think North American software updates have taken a back seat.


----------



## Rick Steinwand

Europe and China have needs.

We have wants.


----------



## FRC

Rick Steinwand said:


> Europe and China have needs.
> 
> We have wants.


Yeah, but don't they realize that we are AMURICANS!


----------



## vinnie97

I'm on wifi, still stuck on this revision. Glad I have no dogs.


----------



## Mesprit87

My avatar says: I want ventilation!


----------



## Nautilus

garsh said:


> With the Europe and China deliveries, I think North American software updates have taken a back seat.


First, I'm on 2019.5.15, so nothing to complain about. I agree with @garsh 's assertion with respect to software development. But there's two perfectly good software updates (2019.5.4 and 2019.5.15) that I have had pushed to me since I received 2018.50.6 on 25-January, and I don't understand why those aren't being pushed to more existing US M3 owners. I have no special privileges, early access or anything. I can't believe its a bandwidth issue after the way we saw 50.6 get pushed at a clip of ~300 cars/day (I think) to US/Canadian owners, and they're probably using different servers overseas anyway (now wandering into subject matter I know nothing about).

I appreciate that Europe and China are significantly underrepresented on TeslaFi, but how many thousands of cars have gone to Europe and China?


----------



## garsh

Nautilus said:


> But there's two perfectly good software updates (2019.5.4 and 2019.5.15) that I have had pushed to me since I received 2018.50.6 on 25-January, and I don't understand why those aren't being pushed to more existing US M3 owners.


You say it's perfectly good. Others have complained about autopilot behavior regressing with these 2019 builds.

I'm still on 2018.50.6. I'm happy to hang out on that older build for a while. I use Autopilot and NOA a good bit.


----------



## DocScott

garsh said:


> You say it's perfectly good. Others have complained about autopilot behavior regressing with these 2019 builds.
> 
> I'm still on 2018.50.6. I'm happy to hang out on that older build for a while. I use Autopilot and NOA a good bit.


Have you seen complaints on 2019.5.15 yet? I haven't. I'm hopeful that they've finally worked out the kinks, and that it's starting to go wide.


----------



## Nautilus

garsh said:


> You say it's perfectly good. Others have complained about autopilot behavior regressing with these 2019 builds.
> 
> I'm still on 2018.50.6. I'm happy to hang out on that older build for a while. I use Autopilot and NOA a good bit.


Fair comment, I didn't have auto-pilot while on 2019.5.4.

The new AP worked fine on 2019.5.15 yesterday during fair weather, but left something to be desired during heavy rain (hunting back and forth within the lane). Also, my trip yesterday was on rural highway with little traffic. I'll need to "combat test" AP tomorrow morning during my morning commute in heavy traffic.


----------



## Viking

Tesla Newbie said:


> In the last couple of days, the car stays in Neutral when we move the lever to advance to Reverse or Drive. It'll then work after a few frantic tries. We did a full reset a couple of times, but that hasn't kept the problem from recurring. The frequency is intermittent and random, but always after the car has been idle; eg, first thing in the morning or after work.
> 
> We had already been on 50.6 for a few weeks before this happened the first time. We have not filed a bug report but will the next time.
> 
> Anyone have a similar problem?


I have as well, but it seems only a few since this the only post I've seen about this besides the one I posted. Did you end up getting it resolved? Made an appointment last week and the earliest is April 10th. That's over a month until Tesla will look at my problem which seems very familiar with yours.


----------



## slasher016

Been stuck on this firmware forever...we're way overdue for an update. Don't have sentry or dog mode. Wonder if they're waiting for a big update to get everyone upgraded.


----------



## Rick59

I’m still stuck on 2018.49.12.1. At least 7 software updates have failed to install in the last month. Tesla is working on it but it’s frustrating not having Sentry Mode and Dog Mode.


----------



## JWardell

I'm watching 8.2 roll out as it has all the featured discussed. 21 people got it in the first 24 hours, that is typical then they wait a few days and if no problems it goes to mass rollout to everyone. If they find a bug you might see 8.3 etc and repeat.


----------



## Nautilus

slasher016 said:


> Been stuck on this firmware forever...we're way overdue for an update. Don't have sentry or dog mode. Wonder if they're waiting for a big update to get everyone upgraded.


It could be worse. I just noticed this software update on TeslaFi (2nd entry, the S 85D in Washington):


----------

